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just wait till you see the pics from today.
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Bunch of pictures from yesterday. The weather was slightly overcast therefore the pictures are not that good of quality.... plus I'm no photographer. The interior and consel were sprayed with awlgrip. The color is 50/50 off white and eggshell white. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7174.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7175.JPG I still don't have lights in the shop so I had to use my tripod lights. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7179.JPG Taping for the boot stripe. This took a lot of time to make it look right. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7181.JPG The boot stripe was hand painted with interlux jet black boot striping paint http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7182.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7183.JPG After everything was dry I took it outside in what sunlight there was so I could see how it looked. Thee are some areas under the gunnels that I had a hard time reaching with the spray gun and they will have to be rolled in a few days when it's safe to tape off around those areas. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/P9220206.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/P9220212.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/P9220213.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/P9220216.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/P9220217.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/P9220218.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/P9220220.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/P9220221.JPG Theres Bigshrimpin working on his Master Angler. Hmmm whats that I see off to the right...looks like a receiver for another boat trailer? http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/P9220223.JPG Not much done today on the boat. Too many things to do around the house. I spent several hours taking down the walmart swiming pool cleaning it up and putting it away. Mowed the 1 acre of grass that I have and broke another sprinkler with the mower in the process. I got some gophers that are making my lawn lumpy. Gopher season starts this week again. I did manage to start cutting the backing for the combing bolsters this evening. They still have to be cut to width and then sealed with epoxy, bolts installed and brought to the upholstery guy. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7195.JPG Thats it for now. strick |
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Strick, are you going to roll the floor ? Or did you just shoot the sides waiting to do the floor in a separate step? Looking great...I love the black bootstripe, adds quite a bit of distinction to the boat. I saw BigShrimpin's boat and I realize my Master Angler isint the only one with a throttle to the left and wheel to the right. I thought mine was modified by the owner to be like that......it was a little awkward so I filled the holes and will change it to wheel on left, throttle right. Whats he planning to do with the Master Angler. Boy, let me tell you that inner liner is a major pain in the ass to fair out...it took lots of labor to get it looking right. |
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Nice work, she looks beautiful. :cool: |
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Hmmm whats that I see off to the right...looks like a receiver for another boat trailer?
My moneys on a Septre or maybe a Seavette. Or how about one of the missing 27 Seavette's! |
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http://www.casdvm.com/photos/DSCN3256.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/DSCN3268.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/DSCN3269.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/DSCN3271.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/DSCN3303.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/DSCN3903.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/DSCN4261.JPG Quote:
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strick |
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Chuck - looking very nice. Being able to spray indoors must feel much better.
D- |
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That looks great Strick. I'll be priming the interior tomorrow...then I'm sure there will be little mistakes to fix so I'll do this and prime the final coat. I'm hoping to have color on everything by November.
I like the Linex....maybe I'll do it on my boat. I was debating whether I should two-tone the deck like you did....I'm still undecided on that though. I might do moondust on white. I thought you were going to leave the non-skid off the topsides. Good thing you put the non-skid down though. |
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Did you roll on the awlgrip/griptex??? That boat just looks great.
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Yes rolled it. You can see some areas were the griptex is thicker. It's a real pain to get right. I will touch up later.
strick |
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MAN that looks good :cool: Curious if you re-did the thruhulls and tube to drain the fishbox. If so how did that go and how did you deal with the 90 degree rubber hose? I'll be sad to see the thread close on this boat BUT I figure 'Rancho Seacraft' must have a 23 Sceptre in the que. :D Unless you found a bowrider out there.
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Looks great!! The best part about that color is that you'll never ever see dirt.
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It will get very hot in the sun....... :D
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That looks great!!!! I also wonder about the heat....I just had my truck bed done but only black at this dealer.
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Strick,
The boat is lookin' awesome! Your boot stripe is killer!! We FLA boys would shy away from the dark deck, we learn that early in life, but I guess you Left Coasties need it to keep your feet warm! Also, did I see correctly, did you Linex the inside of the fishbox? Why? BTW, A buddy of mine taught me when rolling non-skid, thin it alittle extra and stir alot...stir alot in the bucket...stir alot in the rolling tray...just keep stirring! Best with two guys(one guy's job is to stir). Keep up the great work! Lloyd |
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Strick,
Just a question. Are you going to seal the tank compartment or does it just get covered by a hatch so you can open it whenever you need to air it out for drying? Also, you are planning to use the boat in the open ocean correct? Thanks for your help and AWESOME looking boat. Your craftsmanship is top draw! Take it easy, Greg |
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Lloyd- the fish box was full of blisters and after grinding them all out it was real wavey. I got lazy and did not want to fair and paint so I just had Gary blast that as well. It came out really nice. You cant see any blemishes at all the Linex smoothes it all out. On the Non skid I know what you mean it sinks to the bottom of the tray.
Greg- I was planning on sealing in the fuel hatch and screwing it down. The CC and leaning post will cover most of that hatch. There will be three other hatches that open up to air out the bilge if need be. This boat is going to be my river/bay boat. I have another boat for the big water. Thanks for the feedback fellas strick |
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Thanks for the comeback Strick, I really appreciate the info. Keep up the great craftsmanship. Greg
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Strick,
When you made the series of hatch molds you mentioned using melamine which I am familiar with and MDF. Is MDF marine douglas fir? Please let me know. This is the first time I am going to attempt making a mold and your knowledge is invaluable to me. Thanks again, Greg |
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MDF = medium density fiberboard. It's like particle board but the particles are smaller and it's smoother. Use it in molds but never put any inside the the boat.. it's junk and will fall apart.
strick |
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Strick, you make me want to go to my barn and douse my boat
with gas and light a match to it... :( You have done a phenomenal job!!!!!!! :) I really think you missed your calling in life or maybe not. You have the talent to save animals and SeaCrafts! :cool: I really hate to see this thread end. It will go down in the CSC history book as the best. Dad gum shame we live 5000 miles apart cause I would be like stink on poop at your place...... :D See ya, Ken |
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Thanks for the info. Strick. When you used it as the side border on your mold did you have to put anything on it beside the wax coating to prevent the resin from penetrating it? Also, how do you like the partall wax in comparison to mold release when laying up inside a mold? Thanks for your knowledge once again. GOD Bless, Greg
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Ken thanks for the nice comments. You would be welcome at my place anytime.
Greg- for the molds I just wiped partall on the mdf sides and melamine board. On bigger molds with mdf it is probably a good idea to use the partall and then spray with pva mold release. You can see what happened to my bracket. I've been cutting lots of holes in the boat these past two weeks. Despite full protection clothing, hood,goggles, and respirator, I've still managed to get a little itchy. I need to invest in some kind of vacuum system one of these days. At any rate here are a few pics. The bilge had gotten really dirty over the past few months so I washed it and put another coat of epoxy primer down. I also painted the inside of the transom. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7262.JPG It was finally time to install the fuel tank. It was a real pain getting the fuel hose up the side of the boat to the gunnel cap. My forearms still hurt. Plus the small access hole provides very little room to work with. The endoscope is out because I dropped my small 1/4 inch drive ratchet deep into the bowels of the stringers. It's sitting along side the outermost port stringer. There was no way I was going to get it back. I just wanted to see that is was not going to cause any problems rubbing on anything and it's not. I'm hoping that it will slide back toward the transom in time were there is access under the scuppers and I can retrieve it. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7265.JPG The tank is bonded to the tank supports with liberal amounts of 5200. The rear of the tank has a flange that screws into a cross member that you may remember I glassed in place a while back. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7272.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7276.JPG Shot showing the small area I had to work with: http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7266.JPG Tank in place: http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7274.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7275.JPG seacock, bait well pump and bilge pump installed: http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7298.JPG Airmar transducer and intake for the seacock: http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7289.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7290.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7291.JPG If you notice I have the intake pointing toward the stern. In the past when I've pointed it toward the bow I've had a problem with water being forced into the system when under way and overflowing the bait tank. Well see how this works. Maybe I should have pointed it sideways :rolleyes: Access hatch for the fish box plumbing: http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7287.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7288.JPG I go tired of working on the boat so I started hacking away at the consel: http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7278.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7279.JPG Theres 8 rod holders on it... 4 on each side plus the 6 that are on the boat makes 14 total on the boat. Thats probably a hundred pounds of rod holders! Consel all dolled up: http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7281.JPG I put the consel in the boat because I need to start thinking about how I'm gonna do the LP. Also I need to make a cut out in the fuel hatch which will be inside the consel for the rigging. More pics of how she will look: http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7285.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7286.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7296.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7282.JPG That Perko black plastic latch on the anchor locker in the last pic is there temporarily for my sanity. The ss one that I had bought ended up not working so I have to find a ss latch similar to the Perko. On the to do list for the next couple weeks: 1. install the rub rail 2. finish out inside of the anchor locker 3. glass some mounting pads in the cc for electrical buses etc.. 4. install the transom center access door 5. cut rigging hole in fuel hatch 6. run rigging from cc to transom 7. cut holes in transom for rigging 8. install trim tabs well theres more but you get the picture. strick |
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Everything looks FANTASTIC!!!! I have my doubts on the high speed pick-up though. I have never seen one facing rearward and can't understand how it would work while under power. I have a "control" ball valve at the entrance to my tank and (2) 1 1/2" drains to regulate water flow. Works great. Keep up the great work!!!
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getting weepy eyed as this project is quickly coming to a close. Who is going to pick up where Chuck is going to leave off?
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Incredible job
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Strick,
Thanks for your insight. I am designing the gunnel molds for my father's boat and will most likely begin fabrication this weekend. I just need to get my Super Sculpey shipment and will be ready to rock. My dad's boat had the clamshell pickup for his baitwell pointing to the stern to drain the livewell while underway. It had a stainless and rubber expansion plug to seal it. The front of the baitwell just had a straight through hull fitting and the same expansion plug set up in it. We just had to pull the plug and the baitwell would fill up like a whale spouting. The boat looks phenomenal! My father and I have learned alot of finishing work as well as the molding techniques from your build up and will implement them in our rebuild. Thanks once more for all the help and advice. GOD Bless, Greg |
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Strick,
Over the years my greasy/oily/clumsy hands have dropped countless items in numerous places. Since the item is usually either needed (tool / part) or will reek havoc if left in place (gearbox / carb), I've used assorted methods of retrieval. For your 1/4" ratchet I'd suggest a magnet attached to a flexible hose. 1/4"-3/8" fuel line should work well. But you could also use vacuum line or the small air line used for aquariums. A "fish tape" or length of mechanic's wire could also do it if the bends/angles aren't too severe. Since you're dealing with fiberglass and don't have any (I think) ferrous material to "grab" the magnet, use the strongest one you can find that will fit in the access areas. Your endoscope should make it easy to see where the magnet is as you advance it. Twisting the hose while pushing should get you around any bends and cause the magnet to "sweep" when you get near the ratchet. This may take a couple attempts, but should do the trick. Hope this works for you. (A quarter inch ratchet may not do much damge, but it would drive me nuts bouncing around!) The boat's looking awesome!!!!!!!! I hope to use some of your ideas on my upcoming project. Cheers, Bob |
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Hi Strick,
Sure wish you lived in so fl. for a work/ reward apprenticeship. I bought an 89 20 sf 5 mos. ago and am soooo happy. It`s in very nice overall shape, but when they rigged it, they drilled into the core to mount the pulls and of course they failed. A real pain to remove the old core and I too thought it odd that they used small squares. I didn`t know better and used 1 pce cores. Being a former surfer[ roofing accident, so no more surfing] I was somewhat familiar w/ shrinkage and layup. I beveled the edges when I ripped them and used a belt sander freehand to radius a semicircle for the pulls so it wont be an issue. Used 1 layer biax under and 2 over. Flashes reaaaaaly fast in summer here. It`s now cooling off and here I am. The previous owner moved the batts under the console and the coffin cover is shattered. Worse still is he put furring strips on top of the tank and used 5200 to do it! HELP ME. How am I going to get it out w/ out ruining it completely? My hatch is 8` 1'' x 26 1/4``. I found it interesting that you too chose 26 1/4 ``............. Anybody got one laying around? Can you cut the 5200 w/ something? Is there a solvent to break it down? Really hope to save it for a recore. You should be justly proud. Just got my 1`st digi-cam and am learning slowly but will take pics of the disconnect and job. Hope the tank is ok....... Thx for the great tips. GFS |
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Strick the boat is comming along great!! Be careful with the strainer pointing aft,it will probably drain your tank while underway.You may want to consider turning it back around so while trolling and drifting it pushes water to your pump,and just close the seacock while steaming.
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Bob- There is an area were I can get a magnet into near the transom were the scupper tubes are. I will try later to get it out from there. Thanks for tips. It was my favorite ratchet.
GFS- I don't know of any easy way to remove 5200. They do make a solvent that is supposed to help dissolve/loosen it and I tried it once but it did not really work all that well. I have used a wire saw before. Being careful not to damage the fiberglass. That along with machine multiple curse words had limited effect. It might be easier to just build a new hatch. Joey- either way I'm going to have to turn off the sea cock for fear of overflowing the tank (when pointed forward) or draining the tank (when pointed aft) so I'm going to try it this way and see what happens. The only issue I may have is it may not prime the pump very well when pointed aft. If this happens then I will flip it. On my 23 despite a large 1.5 inch drain located well below the top of the tank, the volume of the water pushing into the tank is greater then the volume exiting and the tank will overflow onto the deck if I don't remember to shut off the sea cock when traveling. More progress over the last couple weeks. I seem to get the most work done late at night when the kids are asleep, the pager is not going off and the cell phone is not ringing. An old worn out Glen Campbell CD and a cigar help to pacify me while working. drain for the fish box installed. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7313.JPG It was a major pain working in the small access hatch. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7288.JPG The distance between the thru hull and the fish box drain is only a few inches and there is a 90 degree angle between the two. I was barely able to get a 90 degree fitting on the sea cock without it bumping the fish box as I tightened it down. Working with one hand I managed to get it all installed. I wanted a bronze sea cock but it was too big so I had to go with one of those heavy duty plastic ones. Several trips to west marine for different fittings and this is the best I could come up with http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7316.JPG bronze thru hull for fish box http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7311.JPG The rub rail is installed. taco Marine part # V21-9613 It's rigid vinyl with a ss insert. Since I was working alone I used ladders to hold up the ends of the 20 foot pieces while I screwed them in place. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7299.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7303.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7305.JPG ss insert and bilge pump thru hull http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7379.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7393.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7371.JPG Trim tabs mounted. I still have to hook up the electrical. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7369.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7390.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7392.JPG Pull up for the deck hatches Seadog makes these. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7385.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7386.JPG The rod holders on the cc will have drains that empty into the bilge. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7391.JPG Bigshrimpin brought down his cherry picker and helped me mount the motor. Thanks again Tim! http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7376.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7383.JPG getting started on the leaning post http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7319.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7322.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7331.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7342.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7343.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7344.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7347.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7351.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7353.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN7355.JPG strick |
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Chuck - It looks fantastic . . . . just like a brand new boat. You need to post a side shot of the boat from a distance . . . that'd make a great seacraft centerfold. That console makes a LOT of room inside the cockpit.
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Strick,
First off, thats a beautiful boat and your craftsmanship is unbeatable. Second, what's that electronic module on the right of your trim tab pump? Mine doesn't have one. Lastly, I mounted my pump on the transom like yours but had problems with it sucking air into the lines. I made a wedge to fit behind the pump to keep the fluid more level which solved that problem. Again, great work.. Richard |
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Thanks Strick,
That`s some gorgeous work. Was thinking Rybovich/Spencer could use a production mgr. and you could move over to Fl. Think I can raise the console a bit and slide the coffin cover out the splashwell or am I looking at a complete disconnect? Thx, GFS |
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Richard- Thanks for the tip on the trim reservoir. I will level it out. The module is for the fancy trim indicator switch. This is the first set of Bennets I've owned so I'm not all that familiar with them. The module may be a new addition. Do you have the same trim indicator switch ?
GFS- Thanks. If you have room to lift up the consel and set it on blocks then you may be able to accomplish it without disconnecting everything. I see were mentioned in a previous thred that you had a roofing accident. I used to work hot tar and gravel for a couple years out of high school. Tuff work. I got burned on one of my hands real bad and it was not long after that when I decided to get into something else. strick |
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Outstanding Chuck!!
I Now crown you "The SeaCraft Refurbishing King" http://www.bloodydecks.com/forums/im...es/worship.gif |
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I'll second that Capt.Chuck!! Awesome job Strick!!!
I am inspired now to redo my deck in the Jenna Mae,I hate the teak that is on there now and it is 28 years old,I planned to put down new plywood,glass,epoxy,non skid and AwlGrip,but I am really liking the stuff on Stricks decks,it's got to be bullet proof! |
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