If you used Coosa for the transom, do not even worry about it..
You can drill all the holes you want or not !

No wood, No rot.. :cool:

Just say Ooops !!
Oh Chit !

Move on

What he said...ask me how I know.

I used ajay. I think I'm going to fill it in and predrill anyways

Hey NoBones. Would you say it is a waste to overdrill mounting holes in a Coosa transom? Maybe just drill and brush a little epoxy on? I plan on overdrill and fill anywhere I go into or through Divinycell. Anywhere you are backing something through Coosa/Airex it is a waste yes?

If I may interject...yes. The compression strength of the coosa and similar products is very high and being a high density closed cell material, the only water retention is the cells that are compromised from drilling, i.e., it ain't going any further than the drill hole.

I appreciate all the responses from all of you.

With Dorian and work I’ll have time to sort it out, it’s not like it’s ready to go in the water anyways

When I bolted my armstrong bracket back onto my 79 Sceptre after repairing the transom, I way over-drilled every bolt hole (1/2 inch bolt 3/4 hole), filled them with G-flex epoxy and then drilled out the center of the epoxy to accommodate the bolt.
That way you seal the core (synthetic or wood or whatever, keep the damn water out) and also have a nice bearing surface to crank down those bolts onto, with no chance of over-torquing and crushing the core.
Best method is to leave both skins (digging the core out around the hole), or at least one skin intact (preferably the outside one), thats what I did.
Just my .02 USD.

There is no reason to over drill your holes unless your angle is not
perfect on initial drill..

There are professional steel templates available for a reasonable cost,
but unless you are mounting engines all the time not worth it...

Always make a template out of a scrap piece of plywood for your engine hole
spacing IE: Engine mounting holes say 13 X 10 center to center.
Than get one of these drill blocks, your hole will be the perfect angle every time! No need to wallow out the hole...:rolleyes:

Works great on lifting ring bolts etc.....

Over drilling the fiberglass is OK, that will prevent future cracking from flex, however thick it is to the core of the transom .
Than be accurate on the remaining drill into the composite .

Attachment 20544

I got the rubrail on yesterday. Prior to installing I stretched it out in the hot sun to make sure it was long enough and pliable. When I put it on I did it a little different. Since it was already on the boat prior to removal I found the midpoint that was on the point of the boat . I then placed some screws to hold it there. I then went and screwed in the end next to the spashwell. Then it was a matter of putting it in place and screwing it down. Seems like that was easier. Came out pretty nice.

The insert is in so-so shape and am going to replace it.

Choices are original black or Taco makes a insert that has a "crome " look or a stainless steel insert.

Leaning towards the stainless one.

Taco SS is classy. And pricey.

Vezo.