Re: Fuel tank
 

jedgar,
FYI - If thedink's post didn't answer your question, Jack left for vacation yesterday (perfect timing considering the blizzard [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]), so you won't hear back from him until next weekend.

Re: Fuel tank
 

I had no problem taking out my fuel tank on my 20 CC. I took it to T-N-T Custom Marine Fabrications in Ft Pierce and made a new aluminum one for $550, by copying the old aluminum tank.

Re: Fuel tank
 

jedgar,

This project is easiest if "attacked". Remove the hatch, disconnect and/or remove the hoses, use a 12" sawlsall blade to cut the foam away from the tank. You may have to trim the hatch lip as described above. If you are replacing the tank, you can remove the sending gauge and use that hole to put a small bar inside to attach a strap to, to pull that end up and out first. Once you get it started, a helper may come in handy.

Additional comments: You may consider installing 2 tanks vs. one. Be sure to evaluate the ply under the tank. As long as you’re in there, replace it, if needed. Pascoe's tank installation method is generally accepted here. It allows the tank to breath on the bottom. Be sure the fuel tank cavity drains, too.

Finally, take a good look at the stringers while you're in there. There should (must) be a weep hole in the aft most end at the bottom to drain and water that has worked its way into the foam. Any screw holes left from attaching the tank hatch, leaning post, etc. need to be drilled and filled with epoxy. Using 5200 as a bedding compound putting those screws back will prevent water integration in the future. This is the primary reason these tanks go bad in the first place.

Best of luck.

Re: Fuel tank
 

Not sure if this has been mentioned. Make sure you have your new tank coated prior to installing. This will stop or at least slow down the effects of saltwater.

Re: Fuel tank
 

I gott'a disagree on this. A leaky tank w/gas saturated in the foam is a bomb waiting to go off, when you include a sawsall.

My methiod has proven itself fast, safe and easy.
Use a blade from and 18in bow saw. [tree trimming saw]
Just the blade and cover one end with cardboard and Duct tape to protect you hand.
This type of blade a VERY agressive teeth and the 18in length will go to the bottom of the hull with ease and not pound the hell out of the hull like a sawsall would.

Re: Fuel tank
 

Thanks for the advice / guidance guys.

Deck hatches are out. Yeah, the tank is about 27-7/8" wide.

Even if I cut part of the flanges off both sides, I'm still gonna have a heck of a time cutting out the foam down in the crevice between the stringers and the sides of the tank. The deck proper and fish boxes (part of the deck mold)lap over past the stringers both sides, and I sure don't want to cut out any of the deck or the boxes. Maybe with a flexible blade "keyhole" saw I'll be able to bend the blade around the deck edge and back down into the crevice and cut out the foam. If not, I'll be into a really tough job of cutting up the tank in place and removing it in pieces.

Re: Fuel tank
 

There is a lot of stuff that eats through foam, depending on it's composition. You might want to try, acetone, MEK, laquer thinner, oven cleaner, paint remover (fiberglass safe of course), etc. I'm not sure what will work, but something might, and that would make the job of tank removal pretty easy.

Re: Fuel tank
 

Hey LT Dan, Where are you http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/sp...smiley-040.gif

LT Dan's Chainsaw thread http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/gr...smiley-044.gif

Re: Fuel tank
 

More testicular fortitude then I got!!

Strick

Re: Fuel tank
 

That post should be inducted in to the CSC Hall of Fame.