Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
 

Got back to work over the past few weekends, still waiting for some warmer weather to get more fiberglass work going

Dilligaf - Yes, the epoxy/cabosil was used as an adhesive.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0751.jpg laid down two layers of 1708 against the inside of the existing transom skin.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0758.jpg

Mixed up a thick cabosil/epoxy paste and troweled it onto the 1708, made a bed of the paste for coosa transom to set into, them clamped everything together with 2 x 4's

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0762.jpg

As per some previous discussions, it was not fun removing the carriage bolts, till I got out my new favorite tool, the hand sledge!
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...DSCF0770-1.jpg
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0769.jpg
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0738.jpg
I put the transom cap mold on just to get a feel for how the transom will look
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...DSCF0771-1.jpg

laid up two layers of 1708, 6 inch 1708 tape along the edges and woven roven on the inside. I could use some thoughts regarding if this will be strong enough to support a full bracket with a 425# motor? should I grind it up a bit and add more layers?

Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
 

Everything is looking good. your work is clean and neat which helps out alot when laminating. What I would do is round those corners out for strength. what I mean is mixed up some chopped mat cabosil and epoxy fill the corner, basically making 2 45 degree angles maybe an 1 1/2" between the the angle,then while it is still wet, lay a peice of mat and and then a layer of 1708 over a the mat.This will bond it all together. Now this is just me and I like over doing stuff. It will take you maybe a half hour to do now while everything is open which is much easier then if you have a problem later. keep it up and the pictures coming, It is what keep people interested in the project.

Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
 

BTK, Thanks for the info, I'll try that tomorrow. Should I extend the first layer of mat 3 or 4 inches further out than the 1708? I followed your excellent post of your restoration and am stealing several of your ideas, for instance, the before and after pics below of sodablasting the hull. I used Tony from Ocean State Sodablast of Bristol, RI, quality work, fair price.

Before
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/P3230755.jpg

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0778.jpg

After
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/P3230758.jpg
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/P3230759.jpg

Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
 

you soda blast the whole hull or just where the bottom paint was?

Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
 

Tony only soda blasted the bottom paint and the good news was no gel coat blisters were found. :)

Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
 

Strike that last "forward looking" statement. Upon further review it appears the hull below the waterline has a bunch of blisters. When I cracked a couple open it seems to be just an air pocket with no osmosis type liquid inside. So I guess I get the dremel out and open these up, then quik fair and sand it out before several coats of barrier paint.
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/DSCF0787.jpg

Re: Getting started... 1975 20' sf
 

I would make the mat about an inch wider all the way around becuase it does stretch. I was always told to put a layer of mat down before a stichmat or 1708. I will tell you what soda blasting the bottom of a boat is the best money ever spent, I will never sand a bottom again after I got the bottom of my boat soda blasted. Keep up the good work.