Re: Ideal Dual-Bilge set up for 20' Seafari
 

I ended up going with the following set up:

Shurflo 1000GPH(Primary)
Water Witch Electronic Switch(standard model)
Johnson 2200(Backup)
Water Witch Dual output, second sensor turns on high water alarm. Below is a pic. I had to fabricate a mount for the Johnson pump, since the screw holes were in the bottom of the pump filter and I didn't want to screw it into the hull itself.

I know the back-up switch is a little high right now, I will probably bring it down a little bit.

I also got non-corrugated hose(holy $$$ batman!) which will go in after I finish repairing the gunnels and drill another hole for the second thru-hull fitting.

A huge thanks to Dennis(Bushwacker) for all the advice!

Any feedback or comments are more than welcome.

http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/...rlec/Bilge.jpg

Re: Ideal Dual-Bilge set up for 20' Seafari
 

thats pretty much how i put the pumps in my boats. i have an 1100 on a float switch and an auxillary 2000 pump on wired to an on/off switch just in case, thats in the 20 sc. the 23 tender i have 2 2000 one with a float switch and one wired on/off. both are mounted to a piece of starboard and that is siliconed to the bottom on the boat.
your right that good hose is expensive but worth it.

Re: Ideal Dual-Bilge set up for 20' Seafari
 

automotive heater hose, costs less, very good quality. :D

I am planning on two Rule #43 dash switches, one per pump- they have indicator lights. Because I have a dual battery system, I don't see why I should wire one to one battery and one to another. If I forget to swap from one battery to the other when charging, then I could lose one source of power for a bilge pump, but the manual switch can swap batteries anytime. It does mean that if the 300? amp switch dies, then I am stuck on one battery or worse. But that seems very very unlikely. Plus I have two alternators, one on the main, one on the kicker, so if the engine is running, then I should be good there, even if the battery is toast, but not a dead short.

I am about to cut the dash insert, so if there is some huge reason why I shouldn't have two switches for two pumps, I want to know. :D

I just had to replace my pump I went with a big rule. I've got a float switch and a seperate source dash switch and if either turns on the pump I have a red dash light to let me know
I should have a second pump. I dont have a lot of room in the back for one
Boat is out the the water at home so I'm not to worried

For the Seafari you might want to consider mounting one of your pumps well forward near the keelson under the cuddy - somewhere between the bulkhead and the starboard storage well. It's a low point.

Like others I don't see the point in the varying mounting levels.

I have no problem with Rule. I have 2 of them in each boat. Nothing is foolproof. Poor wiring, fusing and battery management are more conducive to sinking than any particular brand of pump.

If you have a mooring or a slip, and choose a cycling pump mode, keep your boat attached to a power source -solar, electric, whatever. Most recreational boats sink while tied up in storms

I maintain a few boats at work. Rule has gone very downhill in the last few years. I am slowly moving everything to Johnson. But I have had Johnsons go bad too. Just not as fast as Rule pumps lately.

In the defense of Rule the ones on my 18 SF are good to go after 3 years.

Take notice on the new Rules....assembled in Mexico.

I maintain a small fleet of boats, six small whalers, a couple RIBs and 3 inboard boats in the 26' to 31' range. I concur that Rule has takin a turn for the worse, especially in the smaller sizes. The large pumps on the big boats are many years old, but we wind up replace those damn auto 500 gpm pumps in the whalers almost yearly.

2nd that. And the 750 gph. I am "Collecting" a few to send to rule. I should post a picture of the pile before I box it up.