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-   -   New Transom Using Seacast (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=23537)

Bushwacker 02-01-2012 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 65Bowrider (Post 197866)
. . . Running tests with epoxy soaked 1708 on a Seacast sample today ... let cure, then try to pull apart.
Hands on is the best educator.

Great idea Carla! A pound of test data is worth TONS of theory! That's what always impressed me about Dan's approach to repairs! Denny

Blue_Heron 02-01-2012 01:16 PM

Looking good, Skip and Carla. You'll have her back in the water in no time.

Dave

McGillicuddy 02-01-2012 02:07 PM

Hi Carla and Skip,

Looks great, can't wait to see the finished work. Nice work Don, impeccable timing.:D

Better than new, huh? Did you discuss the Seacast product with Mr Moesly and if so what were his thoughts on the product? I am considering the Seacast product in the Seafari for same reasons and have only read positive feedback on Seacast.

Couple of questions - how big were the chainsaw and the chisel. Got pics?

skippertee 02-01-2012 05:51 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Thanks for the encouragements.

GW204 - The president of Seacast suggested spraying inside the transom with iso-alcohol to dry the wood out to make it easier to removed with home chisel. The oil was easily cleaned with acetone.

McGili - The chainsaw I used was electric & had a 16" chain. Seacast & others suggested drilling holes with a wood bit or auger, but because of the wetness, it was very, very slow. So I sharpened the chainsaw & sent to town. After a short period, you develop a rhythm. My homemade chisel was made from a #5 rebar, 40" long, ground approx to center of rebar & approx 4" long. Opposite side was beveled for the point.

eggsuckindog 02-01-2012 06:57 PM

I presume thats how you got the bittom part of the wood - as a 20" transom and 16" saw wouldn't get it. My friend Mike used the chain saw trick also. Do you then have to kinda push the Seacast into the corners?

McGillicuddy 02-01-2012 07:32 PM

Thanks for the pics, Skippertee. I was wondering how I might circumvent buying a 40" chisel. Once again simple workbench fabrication saves the day (and the wallet) ! Nice job.:cool:

gofastsandman 02-02-2012 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skippertee (Post 197894)
Thanks for the encouragements.

GW204 - The president of Seacast suggested spraying inside the transom with iso-alcohol to dry the wood out to make it easier to removed with home chisel. The oil was easily cleaned with acetone.

McGili - The chainsaw I used was electric & had a 16" chain. Seacast & others suggested drilling holes with a wood bit or auger, but because of the wetness, it was very, very slow. So I sharpened the chainsaw & sent to town. After a short period, you develop a rhythm. My homemade chisel was made from a #5 rebar, 40" long, ground approx to center of rebar & approx 4" long. Opposite side was beveled for the point.

Nicely thought out SkipperT and friends.

Cheers,
GFS

Janet is getting sick of Cobia. Mmm Cobia. Bugz?

fg1 02-04-2012 10:02 AM

Just wondering how a styrene blush (very slow and tiny amount) could effect the epoxy bond (fairly quick 95% cure)? If you've properly cleaned and prepped the Seacast surface prior to applying the epoxy, how much of anything is going to blush out in the next 4 hours?

skippertee 02-04-2012 04:27 PM

Mr Moesly was impressed with the these new products, he they were out when he was building. Dog, we just juted the seacast and it pretty well moved into the corners and around the spacers. fg1, I noticed a very blush. I put the caps back on, so there is little seacast exposed, but washed areas and have wiped transom with interlux 202 and acetone.

77SceptreOB 02-04-2012 07:16 PM

Would Seacast be suitable for a larger boat / transom such as a 23'? We are talking about a larger transom and possibly twin engines up to 450 hp. Opinions?


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