I have a 2006 Nissan Exterra, 2wd and i am able to tow my 20MA with no problem... taking the boat off the ramp is cake!

Oh and the trailer has no brakes!

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/...fttrucking.jpg

You should be fine with a 4x4 but as Gillie says, stopping is the real issue. You'll need surge brakes if you do any towing at high speed on the interstate; many states require them if towed load is over 3000 lbs. (Be sure to use silicone fluid in the brake system, because conventional fluid sucks up moisture like a sponge! That will eliminate any problems with the hydraulic system.)

I've towed my Seafari all over the state with a 4100 lb 2WD Dodge Dakota 5.2L V-8 that I ordered with a 3.55 Sure Grip rear axle, HD cooling and towing packages. It tows great, and with trailer brakes it stops like there's no trailer back there! With 8" wide rims, 60 series tires and the positraction rear, I've never had a problem on steep ramps, but I have a heavy single axle EZ-Loader trailer with a PowerWinch, 31 rollers and zero friction, so I never dunk the trailer, just get the tires wet. However I might need 4WD if I used a float-on trailer where I had to get way down the ramp to dunk the trailer.

A good roller trailer and winch (mine's 28 years old, with original springs!) will allow you to avoid the extra weight and maintenance of a 4WD system in addition to being a nearly maintenance free trailer!

You are doing it wrong. The truck needs to be longer than the boat. And at least twice as heavy! :D

For small to medium sized trailerable boats, I've always subscribed to the thought that the boat and trailer should never weigh more than the tow vehicle.

i.e. my 23' Scepter weighs: 4400# (with OB power & fuel, etc.)
Aluminum tandem axle trailer weighs 850#
Total towed weight = 5250#

My Chevy 1500 Silverado Crew Cab 2WD Pickup weighs: 5340# (Per truckstop Scale)

So, i'm good.

P.S. Also, trailer brakes that are in good working order are a MUST for towing over 3,500#. I've towed with and w/o trailer brakes and there is a huge difference in the safety, confidence, and comfort w/ the trailer brakes. Brakes on Both axles are preferable, but only on one axle will work, if they are in good operating condition.

P.S.S. Also, when it comes to tow vehicles, "Long and Low" are prefered. Long wheel based pickups (or SUVs) that have a standard and unmodified suspension as on most 2WD setup are the best and most stable towing platforms. DRW (Dually) 2wd 1 ton longbed pickups (Ford. Chevy, Dodge) w/ a Diesel engine are the best tow vehicles I have found. Although lighter than the "Tow Load" they can safely handle up to 12K# with standard trailer or 15K# with 5th wheel trailer (with Trailer brakes)

I have to say that with a older tow vehicle- a mid 90's F250 diesel, the long wheelbase makes for GREAT highway towing. It can be a problem backing into tight spots with a 21 foot truck and a boat and trailer that is ~25 feet. But the performance under tow is great. It just goes straight down the road. One down-side to a long wheelbase 2WD is that you need to have some weight over the rear axle for good boat ramp performance. But 500-1000lb of concrete works nicely. I found that people will "donate" bags of quickcrete that got damp and turned into a 50 or 80lb pig weight. Then they are easy to unload and work great for getting traction.

Amen to that, and to the benefits of trailer brakes! The 130" wheelbase on my Dakota club cab combined with it's relatively low CG makes it extremely stable; with the "handling package" that includes front and rear sway bars and wide low profile tires, it feels like it's glued to the road when towing! Basic physics says that tall SUV's with a short wheelbase, high CG, tall 75 series tires, and soft "car-like" suspensions are much less stable than pickups with stiffer springs and most of the weight down low in the frame. I've seen guys tow a 23 with a Jeep Wrangler that I'm sure could pull it up any ramp, but it wouldn't be my first choice for a tow vehicle!