Northbay,
Dam that sucks... was really hoping that Decarb would do the trick for you. The yamaha will be a great engine. You did exactly what I do. Buy the whole boat... pull the engine, and part out the boat and trailer.

If u are installing steering... The 4.2 No feedback Cable is more than enough for that 115. I could not fathom a reason for installing a Seastar Hydraulic steering if its not needed. Just more things to go wrong on the water.

I have run the No Feedback Set up on a Johnson 225 ocean runner and it worked great. If you like eating Spinach forget the Hydraulic for a 115 not needed....

Keep us posted.
Robert

You are likely right about the steering...I have always preferred cable. I may be able to reuse the steering from the Johnson but I haven't got to check it out yet. It is missing the steering wheel so that does make it tough to turn! The seastar is in good shape but I would need longer hoses so either way I am going to be spending something.

I might have to give that solas 4 blade a try...the prop on the motor now was pushing a really light boat and looks to have a lot of pitch. I have no experience with 4 blades.

I hope to get started stripping the boat down next weekend. Thanks for the suggestions guys! I appreciate it.

I've got another question I've been meaning to put to you guys...my Seafari has bennett trim tabs and the small hydraulic tank (it looks rough and is bone dry) but is missing controls. Do most folks use trim tabs with the seafari? Should repairing/replacing be on my immediate list when i put her back together? Thanks!

Although the Seafari has more weight forward and is generally better balanced than the CC models, even with the heavy 4-stroke you're planning to use, yes, you will definitely be glad you have trim tabs on the boat! I installed mine in 1978 after my 1st Bahama trip and it was the best $300 I ever spent! Made the boat think it was at least 3' longer! Bennett is a first class outfit with outstanding product support and that 38 year old hardware still works just fine, although I have had to replace the dash control a couple of times. I originally had the joystick-type switch but have switched to the waterproof rocker switch, as I think they are more durable. Spare parts are readily available; and you can download installation instructions, wiring diagrams and troubleshooting directions from the Bennett web site. I would suggest pulling the screws holding the tabs to the transom to insure they are bedded correctly and not leaking into the core, which will also cause crevice corrosion on SS screws. Use a polysulfide caulk like Life Caulk which cures underwater but remains pliable instead of getting brittle with time. The pump/solenoid valve assembly is very durable but make sure the connector in the wiring harness is not corroded. Might be worth sealing with Liquid Electrical tape. And you can use Dexron transmission fluid for hydraulic fluid.

Most folks just think of trim tabs as only being useful for pitch control, i.e. helping stern heavy boats get on plane easier and for helping them stay there at lower speeds as well as help hold the bow down. While all this is true, they are also very useful for roll control, not only to compensate for more weight on one side, but also to adjust the angle of heel to improve the ride. Since I installed the bracket and 25" shaft motor, I find the motor trim is very effective at controlling pitch/running angle, so I mainly use the tabs for roll control.

A deep-V hull will tend to lean into the wind. Reason is wind tends to blow you off course, so when you steer to windward to correct your course, the boat naturally leans into the turn. When the wind is coming from any point forward of the beam, I will often use the tabs to roll the boat in the other direction, away from the wind and waves, which basically increases deadrise of the hull relative to the oncoming waves. If the wind is aft of the beam, I will use the tabs to roll the boat into the wind, again to increase deadrise relative to the following seas to improve the ride. Just a few degrees can make a big improvement in ride. It just takes a subtle tweak of the tabs that not many skippers I've ridden with seem to have figured out, but it's worth experimenting with, as your boat will ride like it's several feet longer!

As for priority, obviously getting the motor running, and fuel and electrical system checkouts will be top priority, but once you start running the boat any distance, you'll definitely want to have those trim tabs working when the water starts getting choppy!

Bennett has always been over the top in customer service, for me anyway. You may want to give them a shot for "warranty replacement" ��

You can get the rocker switch on ebay for about $40-50.

Excellent explanation of some of the great ways to use trim tabs, Denny!

I would go hydraulic for the steering. I have broken the helm and cable on my NFB unit with a F100. That said, both had hard use with a yamaha 175 prior to installation of the F100. But I know I long for hydraulic steering.

Finally in the Water!
 

Thanks to all the advice you guys offered. I finally got the yamaha running and shifting. I put the 4 blade solas on as suggested and it does great! We spent the day on the Chesapeake Bay yesterday and the boat was a pleasure in chop and felt great! We are going to run it as is for the rest of the year and start an interior redo in the winter.

That's great! I am curious what the prop will do at WOT. The F100 will do 31 statute MPH with a T Top, 33 without on E10. Or about 27 and 29 knots.

How do you like the steering? My elbows hurt from two weeks with cable steering and a F100!:eek: