I remember almost being run down by Moose! It wouldnt be fun :eek:I do think she will be a sleeper....hopefully low 50's

Dueling "Chain Drive" Zuke Scepters in the river slalom course at Homasassa - COOL!

I have a feeling I need to bring my entire prop collection.
Ding ding.

Nice Danny! Now I know where those commissions went, but rest assured, I concur with your priorities!

The weight of that motor should be a good balance for that boat if you carry much gear in the cabin! Better than the pig iron that some guys have found under the aft deck during some restorations!

If AV plate is just flush with bottom, I bet you can raise the motor at least 1 hole, maybe 2 if you get a prop with lots of cup! The AV plate want's to be above solid water when on plane, but I've learned that it's hard to see it on a white motor, so you might want to stick some black electrical tape on top of AV plate for test purposes!

Very Nice Danny!!

Thanks guys! I believe that the Rake is what can be adjusted with another prop. The enertia sounds like a future purchase!

Usually, due to the difference between the final drive gear ratios between the Suzuki 250 and 300, you can run the same prop on a 300 that a 250 would use on the same hull. I'd ask Kmoose what prop he's running and try one. I would guess your rig should top out around 45-46K (52-53 mph) when run light.

For example, with a GR of 2:29, a DF 250 will have a prop RPM of 1965 at an engine speed of 4500 RPM. A DF300 with a GR of 2:08 will have a prop RPM of 2163 at the same 4500 engine RPM. So a DF 300 is spinning an identical prop roughly 10% more RPM at any given engine RPM compared to a DF250..

I am very surprised it didn't pull the 20 even with the different gear ratio. Mine pulls a 20 to 6k+ depending on load but I guess the difference is considerable.

I would strongly recommend the addition of a 10' CMC manual adjust bracket to your set up. It gives you infinitel adjustment as well as enhanced performance by allowing you to run the motor almost 2" higher.

I'm with ya Moose! I went with the 6" manual plate because my engine was spraying water all over the place because the cavitation plate was too low, it's was on the middle hole. I now have the cavitation plate at 1 3/4" above the keel and it's perfect. Really easy to dial in the engine height with this set up. Here's what I bought....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jack-Plate-J...jSQRVQ&vxp=mtr

When you see this product you wonder how they make them for this price. Danny would have to go the next size up which is up to 400 hp. He's in the big boy league!!

This is the one I use and it is good to 300 hp. The price is high on this sight but they can be found for around $300. Best investment you will make.
http://www.proboatparts.com/cmc-manu...et-back-61012/