Boulter are the gods of plywood up here, doubt that issue would happen with their stock. You sure you didn't get knockoff fake marine ply?

Check this out: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...-Plywood-Tests
Termites had no interest in Meranti.

71's have 4 stringers that are glass too.

Stringer termites!
 

Rock on Brother, you'er set.
It might have been the 1X12 pine stringers in the V-17 Wellcraft that were half ass, half glassed or somethin' like that too. The boat had a 1/4" hull with a 3/4" plywood core on the floor liner - felt solid as an 8" monolithic concrete slab when you stood in it. Gelcoat and amenities were spectacular. It helped sell a lot of those boats. We work boats 10 months out of the year in Florida. If things ain't right it shows up soon here.

Why is there sand and errant ring terminals in the stringer? :eek:

Also does anyone have the dimensions of the tanks they put in the boats from 72 on?

Did you save the Hull ID#, I hope.

Yup, also 71 is pre HIN.

And thats all the core removed. Onto the sanding and marking areas that need to be ground and glassed.

http://i.imgur.com/LGRsgO1l.jpg

When I get the funds, I am planning on repowering with an ETEC, and I think I want to rebuild my transom at that time whether it needs it or not.

I have been thinking either the Coosa Board for the transom repair or going the Seacast way. What do you guys think about these alternative methods to Marine Plywood.

Its all incredibly strong, its just how much you want to spend.

seacast is only 200 bucks for 2 gallons, based on the instructions if your fiberglass on both sides is still good, which mine is would seem to be pretty simple.

http://transomrepair.net/

$200 for 5 gallons, you need 15+ gallons for the 20's.