Congrats on your new project, Sailor.

The fact that its already stripped will be a helpful start. Good time to reseal the cap all the way around if not already done to keep the cabin dry. Check for water seepage around the scupper blocks, too. Presumably you'll raise the transom to 25" if you're redoing it.

Nothing against Douglas fir, but mahogany or teak ply offer a timeless salty look and detail. Go with your gut there.

Your consideration to keep the motor light as possible is also wise choice. Your boat was designed with a 300 lb 110 hp Merc in mind. 115 to 140 hp will satisfy, and keep you upright. That boat will get airborne at 25 knots in anything over 2'. Nonetheless, it will land gracefully and you won't spill your drink. It's a very cabaple 20 footer.

Good luck with the project. May you board many stripers, bft or whatever your quarry. Look forward to your progress

Thanks, Mcgillicuddy!
 

Appreciate the recommendations.

Latest photos of the transom work
 

Visited the Sea Hag at the fiberglass guy's shop for an update.

The job is 80% done, with gelcoat and drain plugs to install yet. Here are a couple of shots of her with the new higher transom (25 inches).

Wow, she's looking great! I love the raised transom.
Can't wait to see the finished product!

Transom almost finished
 

Here is the transom nearly done. Main drain plug installed, 2 more to go - the motor well and livewell. Gelcoat needs a bit more clean up, then I bring her home. Will need to touch up the bottom paint where the primer is, weather permitting.

Is the teak trim on the sides salvageable? That would look sweet cleaned up and varnished.

It is not clear whether the teak trim can be brought back from the current sorry state. Next spring, I will try to strip and sand it, but it might have to wait until after the fuel system, steering, wiring and lighting get installed. Oh, and a motor!

Teak is amazingly tough and durable wood, but I would not use any of the commercial cleaners on it, as they destroy the soft parts of the grain and will leave a very uneven surface. Been maintaining it for over 41 years on my boat, and I've found that your best bet is to just sand and varnish with about 6-7 coats of Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss. I've tried teak oil, Deks Olje, etc. and all the oils oxidize and turn dark after just a few months. Epifanes will last many years, especially if you keep a cover on boat and is by far the lowest maintenance in the long run. The urethane varnishes may be even more durable, but when they go, it's a LOT more work to restore them! I varnished the mahogany emblem board below about 8-9 years ago and it still looks good, despite the high UV exposure in S. Fl.!

Oh, and "Sea Hag" may be an appropriate name for an ugly boat, but the Seafari is NOT an ugly boat! I think you can do better!

I concur. If the grain is rather rough, you can have about a sixteenth planed off the exposed surface and you will be amazed at what you will see. That's how I prepped my rear hatches and the teak rodholders and they still look great. Search for my post 'delayed report on teak redo' to see the finished product. Before starting this process, the teak was extremely weathered and gray. I planed the visible surfaces and sanded the crap out of the edges and went to slapping Epiphanes on. Eight coats thinned progressively less and I couldn't be happier with the outcome.

looks great ,you can do wonders with teak ,as long as it is solid, lots of ways to make it like you like it....pick your choice, from bare to gloss...they are all good.