http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3263

Shearline after the shaping but before the blocking

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3264

I cut the transom to the original crown but it seemed a little too aggressive like she was a Blackwell. I ended up taking out another inch of crown

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3265

The sole was glasses on the bottom and glassed to the hull sides as well as to cleats underneath. Then I began coring the hull sides with h80 1/2”.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3266

So the sole is glassed to the hull sides and then the cored sides were glassed to the sole. Holy sh$t did she just get strong.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3267

Easiest way to template “one off panels” it with door skin strips and a hot glue gun.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3271

PVC was bedded and glassed to the bottom of the hatch gutters. Now I can router as many drain holes in from the top that will allow the hatches that will be bone dry. The PVC will go to a hose that will go to a sump box in the aft bilge. All gutters and drains will be plumbed to this sump box so the bilges will stay bone dry. The sump box will also have a valve that will allow it to be used a a backup emergency bilge pump.

Note, I hate building gutters and hatches to a happily paid Jim Wells to build them for me.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3273


Quick wipe of fairing to make life easier once I build the gunnel caps