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Re: my inside / stern shot
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Nick , Scott -
Scott - yes, that was inside the lagoon - I was sure it was a seafari, just curious that it didn't have the name - do like the top
Nick - Thanks much for the pix, man! It's curious, but right away I spotted more variations - your seat assembly seems to be integral to the floor, and to the sides - scroll up and take a closer look at mine - the seat box assembly is seperate from the floor and the sides, slopes in on the sides... also your floor gas tank hatch extends farther back than mine... the forward front wall of the seat box/splashell assembly, on mine where it falls down to the floor, is screwed into a lip that rises up off the floor pan - inside the hull, behind that lip, is a piece of approx 1x3 glassed into the floor pan assembly across the width... I like the bomar hatch in the splashwell - what size ? I was thinking of doing the same, but couldn't find a decent size to fit my splashwell, and give the size, access, that I wanted.... but now I'm seriously thinking of dropping a bomar hatch into the floor, in front of the seatbox assembly, giving access down into the hull, and mounting twin batteries down there, behind the gas tank.. more winter plotting.... Bill |
Re: Bill / Seafari owners ....
Interesting ... again. [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]
It's a guess, but your boat with the shorter gas tank hatch has the layout ready for and I/O or outboard setup. The wider I/O motor cover appears to lay over that imprint on your deck. What size tank do you have? Mine is the larger 47 gal tank. The spec page states 38 gal with the I/O. I wonder what Fr Franks deck looks like? Mine or yours? I will get the measurements of the Bomar hatch i installed tonight. It is a tight fit with the batteries below it in the splashwell with the switch between. You can mount the switch inside one of the rear boxes to give you more room. I am not sure if i would cut this type of hatch into your deck to locate the batteries. If you did, the gas tank would be directly forward of the batteries and the battery would be low in the bilge with the tops being at the same height of the deck and tank. I like my place better in that the height is higher, the battery shelf is on top of the stringers. So bottom of batteries are close to the level of the deck which puts them higher than the tank. It probably does not make much diff though, just a false sence of security that the batteries are mounted higher in the event of deck flooding. But thats why we are typing and feel that this boat needs; - Raise the rear boxes and square off to gunnel height - Place a battery on each side at deck height inside the rear deck boxes with access door opening inside towards the deck. (of course you could move the batteries in the cuddy to lighten the rear, i am not sure why i am not excited about that?)Top of boxes can be used for various storage or small livewell? - Glass in through hull scuppers and raise the deck to make it self bailing and pitch towards middle out through the transom. - Add a sealing deck hatch in the middle between the rear boxes for access to the dual bilge pumps. - Make a splash door between the rear boxes. That it ... pretty simple ... now get to work! [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] - Nick |
Re: Bill / Seafari owners ....
I measured the Bomar hatch O.D. at ~24" x ~14".
I believe it is this one that they call a 10" x 20" I.D.; Bomar inspection hatch - Nick [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] |
re - Nick, / other Seafari owners -
Nick - I like your list - and this discussion -
interesting on the size of your hatch in the splashwell - I don't think I could fit that size in my splashwell - will measure tonight a problem I have with duplicating your battery location, is that I put the knee of the center stringer up to the transom, and I don't regret the knee, I considered that crucial, but to the port side of it, I only have about 5 inches before hitting the fishbox... more and more I think that needs to come out - but I like the boxes, with above deck battery locations better, so pull the fishbox, build the boxes... but I don't want to build boxes the full depth of the seats - I think I'll lose too much room in the back, building those boxes out that far - I think maybe the seat boxes need to be cut back about 4 - 6 - 8 inches (?) but that eaves the existing splashwell sticking out - so do a wrap around splashwell height extender... or rebuild the splashwell area like in Peter's.... My gas tank extends back well past the floor hatch - I had the floor hatch off this summer, while doing the transom, and you can't access the fill hose connection with the hatch off, short of lifting up the forward end of the tank and sliding the whole tank forward - so I'm guessing I've got the 47 gal tank (???). Curiouser and curiouser.... I'm betting your splashwell is a good bit wider than mine - I'll take a measurement at the front, between the two seat lids - and come back with that. Bill |
Re: Old Blues Player
20" transom, two batteries under the starboard aft seat. Kicker is a '72 Chrysler 9.9, on a bracket that goes up & down, and is the original kicker sold w/ the boat when it was new back in '72. Looks like hell, but still runs. I test it now and then, and may even push the boat with it for half an hour or so, but I keep it running just in case of dire need. I have a SeaTow membership as well. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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tale of the tape -
Fr. Frank - thanks for the input !! I'm gonna guess the weight of the two batteries on the starboard side is offset by the kicker probably mounted on the port ? Is the kicker linked to the main engine for steering ?
Nick - I did some measurements - there is no way I could get the bomar hatch you have, inside my splashwell. I have 25" in width from seat edge to seat edge, and only 23" inside the splashwell at it's widest point up forward. If you look at the picture of mine, the plate I put in, over the hole I cut during construction, is only 16"x10". I gotta guess you definitely have a larger, wider, splashwell than mine. Also measured my seats, extension forward - they are 19.5" - I don't think I want to box up from the full seat, gonna lose too much space in the rear of the boat - I wonder what the depth is on that 20CC transom box ? 10 - 12", maybe 14", is my guess. Would be interesting to know. Bill |
Nick / others- interesting alternative -
on the topic of brackets, and being able to close up the stern - in the photos page, on the Seafari thread, someone found and posted this interesting, short bracket installation - still requires a short transom notch to enable full motor tilt, but then the short bracket doesn't impart anywhere near the leverage load of a standard length bracket
This would be interesting, and then the possibilities on redoing the stern interior become much more open... http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ortbracket.jpg anyone know if that's a commercially available bracket, or a custom made ??? Bill |
Re: Nick / others- interesting alternative -
Stainless Marine makes brackets with a 9" and 12" setback.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4577852827&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT http://i4.ebayimg.com/01/i/04/ff/e3/d6_1.JPG |
Bigshrimpin - nice find !!
Thanks, man ! that to me is the power of this internet thing, sharing info with each other is way too cool - a board like this can beat google anyday.
Now - I wonder what a 9", or maybe a 12", setback bracket would do for me - and I don't know much about brackets, other than my bro's boat has a full size one, which I don't really want to do - that's alot of leverage hangin off there. love any input ! Bill |
Re: Bigshrimpin - nice find !!
No Problem Bill!! A stainless rail design like this one (for the transom might be simplest/cheapest way prevent MOB
http://www.maritimeskiff.com/images/patriot_aerial.jpg |
Re: Nick / others- interesting alternative -
What about using one of the hydraulic jack plates with the built in setback...would that allow you to make the transom higher? I know most outboards you can adjust the tilt limiter so as long as you can achieve all of your trim settings you could limit the tilt so that it does not hit the transom and then use the jack plate to raise the motor to provide clearance. Addtionally you have potential performance enhancements avaialbe by using the jack plate.
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Yo Nick - stern options -
did you catch riffraff's 20 SF pix in the photos page, and Trayders in the repairs page?
riffraff's 20 SF appears to have the same "medium wide" stern notch as yours - check how he elevated the seat boxes. I'm kinda groovin on Trayders build up off the existing splashwell - his appeared to also have the "narrow" splashwell. more thoughts !!! and a question - hydraulic steering - looks like, new, it's about a $500 - $600 investment? anyone have some good info on this? I'd have to convert to hydraulic from my current Teleflex, if I were to go with a shorty bracket. thanks Bill |
Re: Yo Bill - stern options -
I did see them and was waiting for you reply! [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Trayders and Riffraff's is what we are talking! They look great and depends on your personal taste. I like the way Riffy kept the original top of stern boxes to keep with the classic look of the original floor. Nice touch in my opinion! If you plan to replace or raise the floor like Trayders and others, you can go with any stlyle you prefer and config you prefer. Nice touch also! I do not have experiances with Jackplates. That deserves some thought also, good suggestion for performance and be able to raise transom heigher than 25" for a close to full transom look ... closest to the enclosed transom/full bracket option. I am not a glass man, but to raise the stern boxes on the original footprint should be the less expensive way to go. Agree maybe a little wider than necessary, but that is the same space i do not use today. Then the splashwell, leave it and be happy with the original verticle scuppers(not so bad? especially if mostly trailered?) or cut it out flush with floor and through transom with balltype scuppers. Raise the transom 25" min or more with jackplate option and squeeze/square the transom motor opening to the new stern box height. Hydraulic for $500 sounds like the Baystar system good up to 150 HP? I believe i paid close to $1K for the Seastar system .... i figured that paying it when i repowering would prevent finger pointing and $$ if something went wrong ... plus having the option of repowering over 150HP some day ... probably need a new system by then anyhow [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] Enough rambling ... get to work ... [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] - Nick |
yeah, lots of good options appearing -
right now I'm really kinda leaning towards Trayders design...
Looked into the bracket thing - 9" setback bracket around $500, another $500 for a hydraulic steering rig - I can't see that I'll ever power this thing with more than 150hp, it just doesn't need it - but do I need to go that route - priorities are more towards a good trailer, a fixed VHF unit, in lieu of just the handheld, still got the original gas tank... but this time, instead of just rebuilding it as is, I want to get a plan worked out for now, and later, and as we both said, while the focus of the discussion is improving seaworthiness of the transom cut-out, neither of us has really had a problem with that - alot of which also includes being a smart boater, and knowing the capabilities of your boat - if ya got a big hole in your stern, don't be backin down in big waves, etc... Floors - the vertical scuppers seem to work fine for me, I can't see messin with that - again, my use will probably always be trailered, with the occasional moored overnight with me on it. I've paid for season slips before - ouch - that's why the downsize to trailerable. Probably will pull off a bunch of the pix we've accumulated here - would love to get more detailed pix of Trayders - and I'm thinkin with some corrugated cardboard, I could do some mocking up of options, over the winter, for the interior of the stern, maybe build up a plywood knockoff of that short bracket, and see what it really gives me for motor tilt/ transom raising measurements, etc... open to any and all thoughts or just take it and fish it the way it is - it is a great boat !!! Bill |
Re: yeah, lots of good options appearing -
The config on my boat is a one off. There are no original parts. I used Nida-Core sheets and went at it...I too like the original non-skid on riffraffs config and the way he kept the deck throuh the splash well with the drains.
Mine has two drains at the aft corners before the transom boxes and they are routed under the deck though a one way valve and out a bronze seacock/thruhull. see here: http://www.classicseacraft.com/Goldf...eacockstbd.jpg in side the two aft boxes is a pie plate gaining access to the seacocks (total overkill no reason for them) it works well but I would rather have riffraffs design. I am screwed if I need to replace any of my fittings I will need to remove the boxes in the stern [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] what do they say? hindsight is 20/20 |
Trayder , CSN - et al....
Yeah - God bless that 20-20 hindsight thing !!!
fortuneately, too cold now to do any glassing outside, so got a good winter stretch to think about this, and tackle it in the spring. Things I know - gone is the dictum of "keep it original" I hate where the battery is located, stock, down in the starboard hatch, tucked up against the hull side - a pain in the butt to pull out just for winterization. The thru hull, down draft scuppers work just fine. Don't want to raise the floor - I like a deep boat, good freeboard inside and out, actually wish this was a little deeper (maybe I just need to get a 23 [img]/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]) I got used to, but still don't like, the deep outboard notch, need/ want to cover my butt easy access for maintenance is always key, enable dual battery install, dual bilge pump install increase stowage if possible the baitwell can go - I'm not a live bait fisherman, anyways so, somewhere between the 20 MA, Riffy's rebuild, and yours, are the essential elements of the cure... So Nick - whadda ya waitin on - git to it, mon !! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] Bill |
Re: Trayder , CSN - et al....
Would you guys please stop changing the thread title. It's a pain in the azz trying to figure out which thread your looking at.
Cheers |
Re: Trayder , CSN - et al....
Ohhh come on Finny - just cuz we got three threads in one here.....
[img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] Bill |
Re: Trayder , CSN - et al....
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Re: Trayder , CSN - et al....
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Yo Buck, now Dirk will really be pissed off cuz I'm sending this thread to "Repairs / Mods" where it belongs along with his Leather Gucci's [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] |
I'll show ya gumpy
There! Isn't this fun?
Buck, you'd be grumpy too doing glass work in 40 degree's. So stop being a punk and go look at that boat for me. [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] Jack, just shutup and go back to bowling with the geezers. What times bingo? [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] |
Test
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Re: Test
Yes, this is a test.
This is only a test, do not adjust your dial. and I think I will be re-using the stern seat lids. but not in the stern. and I will have a decent sized fish box, and additional stowage. We now return you to your regular programming. Bill |
A Plan, for Review and Comment -
seriously, I do want the feedback -
for the stern, I'm thinking rebuild the interior like Trayder's, the seat boxes being rebuilt up to full height, tops flush to the transom, and matching the crowned transom typical of SeaCrafts. http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...rninterior.jpg I'm thinking raise the inner wall bottom of the outboard cutout up some, and then create either a slide in, or a hinged, full height splash well gate. Included in this is to remove the baitwell from the port side seat box, and remove the battery from the starboard side seat box, and have those just be basic mechanicals space, and storage, with hatches on the front sides, again like Trayders, but I should be able to fit larger hatches, as I'm not raising the floor up like he did. Next, I look at this boats tall seat pedestals, and see other boats with boxes under the seats, and short pedestals, so I'm looking at this view http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ea_Craft-2.jpg and thinking of doing the same - boxes that start about at the front edge of the existing pedestal attach to floor point, and extend back about 36" - 42", and a little higher than the inner liner side wall. The existing stern seat box lids will be attached to the aft end of these boxes, for access. One side can be a full size fishwell. The other side I'll partition, and have a dual battery setup under the seat lid - this will get me readily accessible dual batteries, moving them forward from the stern, without an excessive length of cable run. I'll probably move the main electrical distribution junction into that box, as well. The rest of the box can be additional storage space. This will also get me two rear facing seats, right behind the existing seats. Some things I wonder about: which side should be the fishwell - I'm thinking port side, batteries in the starboard side. Also, should I plumb the fishwell for fill and drain? I could go down thru the floor, out to the stern, and use the existing baitwell's drain port inlet hole - how complicated does that plumbing need to get? Or just do a simple drain out the side, like the original Seafari optional galley seat, that had the sink in a box under the flip up seat? It's easy enough to fill the box with a few 5 gal pails. With that size box, say half full of water, and some fish, will that weight, mid boat above floor level, create funny handling ? I wouldn't think so, no worse than an additional person moving about the boat, but just want a sanity check... In the stern reconfiguration - can anyone give some fabrication recommendations - I'll go with glass over ply wood, not any of the more expensive composites, but not really sure what thicknesses / layups I might want ?? all input welcome - Thanks !! Bill |
Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
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BTW: The rod holder on the Starboard side doesn't make for practical use either......... |
Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
Capt Chuck - I think you're looking at a bracket mount for the radio - knee level on the wall, below the helm wheel ? No, I wouldn't put a knife rack there either ?!?!
Rod holder - starboard side ?? under the gunnel? that's stock - as built - can't say they work real well for me, additional rod storage/ racking, without being in the way of active fishing, is another gotta-have, to figure out. thanks Bill |
Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
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Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
Hey capt, thats port side. Its easy to remember if you think of it like this: PORT = 4 letterrs, LEFT = 4 letters
[img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] |
Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
Too much Turkey [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
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Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
In my dreams I think the same thing, get rid of the pedestals and use the wasted space underneath for baitwell and storage, plus it does give you a bit more sitting area.
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Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
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Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
Bill,
My father's 23 Sceptre has storage boxes under the seats and they do come in handy. They have overboard drains that run out the side of the hull just above the chine. He uses them purely for storage though. The older Tsunamis/Sceptres had pedestals just like your Seafari and I often thought it was a waste of space. |
Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
I think removing the pedestals and replacing with storage boxes (like Grady White) is a good idea. I told CSICKNICK that he should do that so he could relocate batteries and therefore lighten up the stern.
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Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
BP, Ed, & Scott - thanks for the input - when you look at open floor space, it's hard on a smaller boat to envision giving some of that up, harder to realize that in use it's not really available anyways, and needs better use.
Ed / others - can you give any thoughts on structure / build / layup, for the seat boxes? I'm thinking 3/8 ply for the sides, front, back, with 3/4 for the top, to give a good plate to attach the pedestal bases to, covered with some layup of glass - (1 x mat) or (2 x mat) or (1 x mat + 1 x cloth) or ?? Will be using polyester resin for these structures. Put a bottom in them, and make them removable, or just glass, or 5200, them down to the floor ? If that, what would be an adequate bottom flange width ? thanks Bill |
Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
I don't know if you'd even need that much core (or any at all for that matter.)
If I were to do it, I might take a trip to Target, Kmart, etc.....and see if any small plastic garbage cans with similar dimensions might be used for a crude mold. If not, Strick could tell you how to make one....he has done some pretty nice mold work on his boat. |
Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
I don't know, but i think the size boxes under the seats you mentioned would be too large for my tastes. On a 23' boat, yeah on the 20' they take up space fast.
I spend a fair amount fishing just behind the capt seat. I usually turn it around or remove it for more space while doing the tube/worm or jig thing while trolling. For me, a tackle station under the seats footprint would be nice, but no larger. This size would work with batteries under also. You could go larger on the port side with livewell, but i would like them to match. So a portable live well would work better for me. You might also entertain the thought of using the drop deck space between the chairs 1st? Plum as a livewell or locate batteries there?? You would need to chop off the bottom of the cabin door for it to open. I may go this route, since i do not spend alot of time in the cabin, but love the cabin storage. So if the door is a little smaller, who cares. I need to duck in now. Plus a one level deck would be alot easier to hose down after a fish massacre! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] Some feedback anyway .... [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] Nick |
Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
Ed, Nick - thanks for the input !
Nick, can't say I'm much in favor of filling the floor slot. I did climb in last weekend and take some measurements for the boxes - If I try to reuse the rear seat lids on the boxes, I'm looking at the boxes being about 34" long, maybe 32" - those seat lids are 19" deep - could probably do something a little different and only go 30" long sounds like you like to stand right behind the helm seat, to fish - I could see where the floor box would be a problem for you - still much mental juggling... Bill |
Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
Another thought, [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]
How about building glass battery boxes in front on the chairs where the foot rest are. They could be about the same size as the pull down foot rests to hold a battery in each side and allow a short run of wire into the cabin. They can hinge open on the top, and still be used as a foot rest! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] - Nick |
Re: A Plan, for Review and Comment -
i put my batterys in the cabin where the toilet would go to keep some weight foward since i got an 140 johnyzuke on a bracket, hopefully well splash it buy the first of jan., but i just came down with mono so i may be out of commision for a little, my pedistals are the adjustible height so im gonna mount a 50qt. cooler on each side just behing the pedistals, it will be a great place to put beer and bait, and people can sit on them facing back. just my 2 cents
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