Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Nice engine but 2 things
I need to by my son a car
And I have a 150 Black Max that is in incredible condition that I can have for $700 or less with harness prop and controls.
And if my 2 boys break the engine it won't hurt to much

Long term I want to raise it to 25 and repower

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Took the day off today and went down to Islamorada to our new townhouse and took these 2 pics.
I'm in a hurry to get the boat done and after I saw one just like mine docked there I am on a mission

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...es/walkway.jpg[/image]

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3.../WaterView.jpg[/image]

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Go ahead...
Rub-it in..... ;)
I'm on my way!!!

I kwow exactly where you are at... :eek:


See ya, Ken

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

I'll have a nice drink with an umbrella in it waiting for you :D

Anytime you want to come down your more than welcome

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

PERFECT!!!! That's exactly the kind of drink Ken likes!! :o :rolleyes:

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mr no bones

dont let dem boyz dis U. I like my uncle bucephelus drink cocktail. he puts moutin dew, tomater juice,hot sause,lime and he uses beef jerky not no damn gay umbrelas.see below

bye sam

http://momentoffame.com/photopost/da...dium/jerky.jpg

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Sounds like a sweet deal on the Merc. I repowered w/ a 200 Mariner on one of my 20 Sea Crafts back in the late 90's and loved it.

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Got some work done today
Applyed primer to the console and hatches.
Very few bad spots mainly on the hatch in the area that will have non skid the console came out great.
Not bad for doing it in the back yard

Next the boat interior
[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...medhatches.jpg[/image]

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...medconsole.jpg[/image]

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Picked up the engine today

Merc Black Max 150 came with the harness 3 props spair trim/tilt cylinder battery cables and best of all the OEM service manual and a file with all the service done by a Merc tech looks to be in pretty good shape and has 120 psi compression on all.

Lets see what happens when I get it on the boat and crank it up

Plan is to repaint it and get the original stickers for the cowling have carbs rebuilt etc......

I need to wait for my 2 boys to get it out of the back of the truck so pics tomorrow

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Jorge,
If you've got the factory service manual, I would encourage you to do your own carbs. The manual has step by step instructions for dis-assembly and reassembly and for synchronizing them. All the jets are fixed orifice except the idle air screw, and you just set that back to it's original setting on each carb. It's an easy two hour job once you're familiar with it, maybe a three hour job the first time through if you know your way around a tool box.
Dave

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Jorge are you in Executive bay club? thats a sweet spot, lots of lobster around there!

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Yes I am I can't wait till I get some!!!!

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Looking forward I have as you are looking towards the rear on the left a opening where a door was for either storage or battery?

I am going with the batteries under the console and would like some type of cabinet type setup?? I know it might not be a "dry" location but something for that spot is called for

What have others done????

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Jorge,
My batteries are under the console in two boxes strapped to the deck. The switch is mounted above. Haven't had any problems.

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Rick what do you have opposite the live well in the back?
Storage? cabinet? door?

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Yeah Jorge,
On the other side is a door where I have my fuel filter mounted. In the last MA I had the battery was crammed down there and a pain to deal with. I don't know what gauge my battery cables are but I'm not having an issue with cranking voltage.

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Could not go to the keys this weekend soooo I got to work on the boat

I needed to do some work on the trailer so I placed it in the back yard and with some help turned it on it's side to fair and sand (I HATE SANDING). I think it might be easier this way instead of going under the trailer and having to move the boat back and forth due to the trailer bunks ect..

So at least 1 side is ready for primer tomorrow morning then reverse the process. I will be doing from the rubrail down 1st

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...adytoprime.jpg[/image]

Still a lot to due before taking it to a spray booth to paint. Now how have others done the bottom in a spray booth?

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So I had nothing better to do.
A few runs but not bad. in the pic it looks like the blue comes thru but it must be the camera

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...sideprimed.jpg[/image]

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I have some questions for my shopping list.

Trim Tabs what size? Bennet or Lenco?

Prop? what should I look for for best performance?

Hydraulic Steering Here I have the teleflex "cable" setup that i can use and the $$$ will dictate that, but I'm running a Merc Black Max 150, should I go with the Baystar or Seastar? One is rated to 150hp and the other to 300 if I were to repower higher then ...Well
And can I install pump under console?... it may keep better there.

Rubrail I love the stainless look better than the rope look where should I look?. If I go stainless and someone wants my old rubrail they can have it.

Also I plan on getting a new wind shield a little taller and clear, mine is tinted I donot have any measurements yet

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go bennett m-120 tabs. i have them on mine and love them. get hydraulic for sure. i have saeastar on mine. works great.

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Now I have primed the boat and I know I need to fill in some areas that have pin holes and some runs.
But my questions are what grit sandpaper should I use and should I put on another coat of primer prior to paint?

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I have been using 120 or 150 to sand down the primer.

I am just guessing on this...if your primer after sanding looks good and you have no thin spots or color showing you are good to go. If not shoot another coat.

I am sure someone that knows will chime in.

For pin holes use a air dry pit filler. And apply with a razor blade.

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I started to sand before the 2nd coat of primer and boy you can really see all the imperfections that you missed prior to the primeing. I also had a line that I imagine was either where the bottom paint met the boat color or from the boot strip.

Well took to that 1st, and next finish sanding with 150grit then on to the other side.

I think I'm going to paint just the very bottom in Mattahorn white prior to putting it back on the trailer and taking it to paint the rest. I think painting the bottom on a trailer in a spray booth would be a real pain to do. And if it does not come out perfect at least it's the part of the boat you don't see as much.

Boy do I wish I would have done all this in the winter time when it was a lot cooler!!!

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...fterprimer.jpg[/image]

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Hummmm Glad you found it now and not later. LOL

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Jorge,
I didn't see if you posted what brand of primer/paint you're using. Is it Awlgrip? Regardless, prep is going to be about the same for other brands.

150 grit paper is fine if you need to knock down some runs in the primer, but do the final sanding with 220 or 320. Anything coarser than that and you run the risk of sanding marks showing up in the top coat. And sanding of the final prime coat should be done by hand with a sanding block. If you spray on a guide coat, the final sanding should be more consistent. The top coat is going to show imperfections 100 times more than the primer, so go over it thoroughly on the final sanding.

From the Awlgrip application instructions:
I think painting the bottom first is a good plan. It will show up any flaws in your prep work in a location that doesn't show. Then you'll have a better idea of how far to go on the rest of the prep where it matters.
Dave

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Sand by hand? If thats the case mine will be a 2013 model by the time I'm finished.

And what is a guide coat? Like I need more to do

I am painting the boat with Dupont Marine the sides will be Cobalt Blue and the rest Mattahorn White.
And here I thought that I was close....Silly Me! :(

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Jorge,
Get a can of black fast drying spray paint and mist it over your primer. Hold the can about a foot and a half from the surface and spray when there's no wind. That's your guide coat. Then block sand until all the guide coat is gone. Sanding through a guide coat helps to assure you've sanded the entire surface. It also makes sure you've sanded it smooth because you can see it in the low spots even after you've sanded off the high spots.

You can use a DA or random orbital sander, but the swirls may show up in your top coat. You could try that on the bottom and see how it turns out. That cobalt blue is going to be a lot less forgiving than the white. Dark colors will show flaws in the prep work much more than light colors do.
Dave

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

I did see a seacraft exactly like mine that was redone in the original light blue I have and I'm debating going original. Plus that Cobalt Blue needs a clear coat also which for a pro no problem but with a rookie it presents another step to mess up with. I still have time to debate it. But rolled boat on the other side and as soon as the sun goes down a bit it's back to sanding. I HATE SANDING

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

One of the ways to tell how good your sanding job is to do the following.

After sanding rinse the section of with clean water look down the section done. If you like the way it looks great. If not keep sanding.

Water will imitate the way paint looks on your boat...it is all in the prep work. You can not make a paint job look good if the prep hasn't been done.

Check out page 4 of my link and you will see what I am talking about.

Don't give up now. :mad:

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Well with the budget going to the new place in the keys and with us going down every weekend the boat has been ignored pretty much. We want to remodel the unit and turn it from a 2bed 2bath to a 3bed 2bath and then buy furniture.
I'm going to have to "set aside" some $$ for the rebuilt.
Now I know that many here have done this to the wife any suggestions? :D

I did put her back on the trailer since the wife said something about it laying in the yard. This morning with help from 4 very strong teenagers I put the engine on the boat to start preping it a bit. I also rocked the engine and the transom has no flex so that was good.
I re-checked the compression and it was 115 to 120 (so I was bored) I then drained the lower unit oil and refilled it and then I found it leaking.
I imagine that the seal has gone bad

Now is that a complicated job or leave it when I take it to get it ready by my mechanic?

Besides that I want to paint the parts of the engine to make it look as nice as possible and the cowling and mid section/lower unit.

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Get the dealer Phantom Black - if your deacals are decent just tape them off - wash with Dawn, up around the steering arm wire brush,I used one on a drill and some rust remover from NAPA. It will come out very nice - the deacals from a dealer are way too much - local sign shop, too get close

Next- Tell the wife what good is a place in the keys without a boat - need some balance in the budget. They always want a new fancy nest - its a normal genenic defect, males have different ones - just say'in

PS I'm alot older than you, been there done that

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Decals were shot so I sanded down the cowling and am strating on the mid section and lower unit. I will also try and shoot some paint in and around the head/black area that has a bit of rust. I may just get some new bolts on the ones that are a little bit worse.

And yes I know I need to balance the budget some how, but for now I want to make her happy....And besides the budget is streched thin right now

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

I HATE SANDING!!!!!!!
I HATE SANDING!!!!!!!
I HATE SANDING!!!!!!!
I HATE SANDING!!!!!!!

Oh let me tell you how I really feel

I HATE SANDING!!!!!!!

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

I know what your talking about my hands are killing me :mad: only a couple hundred more hours to go :rolleyes:

Re: 20 MA project continues
 

Well after no activity on the boat since we got the place in the Keys bad weather and just plain lazy I am going to go at it again ....So here's were I'm at

I have the Console and all the hatches ready for paint, I have the outside and bottom of the hull sanded and ready to finish primer. Now the inside I have most sanded but plan to go over the whole inside incase I missed some place, but before I need to finish these 2 spots

The rear hads a soft spot so I took out the rotted wood and relace it and I did save the skin to replace it back

[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3.../RearFloor.jpg[/image]

The front deck also had a larger soft spot here I took out the rotten wood and replace it with 4x4 pieces covered with glass.

This has taken me a lot longer than what I thought
[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3.../FrontDeck.jpg[/image]

Plan it to attack these 2 areas this week and continue to sand :mad:(Did I tell you I HATE SANDING!!!)
and hopefully start the paint sometime next week.
NOw after the glass what would be the best filler to make it as smooth as possible. Although both will be an area that the non skid may help hide my amature results

Now I do have some damage to the 2 channels that go somewhat in the middle of the deck from the console back and I was thinking it may be easier to not try to make it look original and glass it over...Opinions?

Any contructive critique is encoraged!!!

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Took care of floor in the rear section Pics to follow as its dark
I ground down the underneath part of the skin along with all around the skin and flooring so I can glass it in tomorrow. I first prepared some thickend resin to a milk shake like consistency and then placed the skin on top I also placed 3 concrete blocks on top to hold it down. Tommorrow I will glass it in and day after sand down even with the surrounding floor. On the weekend I hope to tackle the larger part in the front.

Got to get it done!!!!

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Took off the concrete blocks and it came out fairly well.
I thought I had more resin and mat but was wrong so off to the store tomorrow.
I need to grind down some parts and I'm probably going to take off the rest of the gelcoat on the skin I put back down
[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...cs/floor-1.jpg[/image]

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I must be doing something right no one has commented on my amature work :D

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You have learned well, weedhopper! :D

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Every Pro was an amateur at one time.