alright I finally got the heat running in the garage and got back to work

got the bulk of my supplies in last month and was ready to build

had the bottom soda blasted at the biegining of the month by atlantic soda blasting

best $700 I ever spent, I had 8 layers of old paint on the bottom and they had it off and cleaned up in 2 hours. I also had him blast the old bilge paint out which was well worth it.
I didn't get any action shots as I was there before and then they were gone.
here are some pics of it in the shop and on a set of dolleys I bought of craigslist.

as soon as I get the boat set in the garage the first order of business was getting the transom installed, again the transom is a composite called corelite. its very strong and cuts easier than Penske or coose board. and the glass makes a very strong bond to it.

got 2 2x4s and 8 long bolts with washers and marked them out and drilled some holes to sandwich the transom to corelite. I layed up 2 wet layer of mat on the transom and layed it in there and boltes and clamped everything together.

also a pic of my drum of polyester.

After the transom set up 2 days later I beat the bolts and tooks the clamps of and mixed up a bunch of dynaglass and fillet and smeared it all the way around the transom in the void the I layed up 1 layer of mat and 1 layer of 1708 to seal it up good, I also layed up an extra layer of 1708 in the corners to beef it up. the transom is rock soild now.

I took a piece of 2" foam and pinned it inside the one stringer that was cut open and layed 2 layers of mat over it

well I got my 1/2" balsa in and decided that was the next thing I wanted to attack.

I decided to leave the balsa 2.5" down from the top of the hull, I made a mark all the way around the hull and started to dry fit the balsa. Marking the top and side and numbered them . I dry fitted to 3ft short of the bow. Balsa cuts easy with either a razor blade or small jig saw

I decided the set the balsa in Divilette putty which is used to bond coring material to fiberglass.
Divilett putty is an absolute mess to deal with its like light soupy coolwhip. It get kicked with mekp just like poly resin.

I use a 1/4 tile trawl to apply it. just like a tile guy.

After I trawl out the area for the panel I lightly wet out the back of the balsa that is to set against the divilette putty. Not many action shots here as my hands were covered in this crap.

after I would wet the balsa out and set it against the hull and push and smack it then I would set it with multimaster tool. I taped it up because I would have putty all over my hands and didn't want to shit up my tool Divilette putty comes in 5 gallon pails and I ripped some 1/4 ply to use as mixing sticks to mix up the slop.

I got it all done in about 5 hours between fitting it and bedding it, which I didn't think was to bad.

While I was waiting for the putty to dry I decided to start working on the stringer foam. I ripped the 2" foam 2.5" wide and started fitting it to the stringers to rebuild the raise them

got the back section mostly done.

you can also see where I started to cut the balsa on a 45 degree angle to taper it to the hull. I used the multimaster to cut it and it ripped right through it. I would have ran it through the table saw before hand but the hull had angle to it and they would not have been straight cuts to make.

you can see where I shorted the balsa in the corner by the transom . I am going to lay 2 layer of roving in there to stiffen it up and also I didn't want the thru hulls for the bilge pumps penetrating the balsa. the only penetration will be where the gas vent is and I am going to cut the balsa out and fill it with filler to keep the balsa dry.

Nice work. That balsa is really going to stiffen up the hull sides. And leaving it off where the through hulls are going is good forethought. What kind of foam are you using to build up the stringers?
Dave

Dave the foam is a 2" builders foam I got from NAC It is compatible with poly and vinylester resin.

Lookn good. Blasting is def the way to go.
Just curious y the balsa core on hull sides. My MA I did I just faired in the rough glass. And w the floor being glassed to the hull sides it made the hull sides much stiffer.
Foam that works w poly and ve.... I will be lookn into that for future builds

Thanks for the reply. Is it a polyiso foam? Who is NAC?

Hey guys i forgot to show the braces i have going across the hull to keep shape . I learned from stricks mistake ! I have 2 braces in one at 5 forward and another at 10ft

The foam is from north american composites. They are a wholesale place so yu must have an account to purchase from them

I did the hull sides in balsa because i have had good luck with it and it stiffened it signifacantly.

As I understand the corelite is PVC. I'm using some on my rebuild. Very easy to cut, is water proof and so far pretty strong. I didn't do my transom core with it though. I paid $124 for half inch sheet,so it's not cheap.

Billy thanks for the insight with NAC. Went to by cloth and resin from them and basically was shown the door. I live 15 minuts from the warehouse. So I went to Barnagat.

I put a little test sample on a piece of foam to show that the poly doesn't eat through it like the pink foam from homey cheapo

also the braces on the hull

Right on man. Def should be strong. I guess tho the balsa is not adding much weight at all.

I would say 150 lb with the balsa glass and resin and divilette putty

You think it's that much? Balsa is what, 8-10 lbs/cu ft? How thick will your laminate over the balsa be? And how much of the weight is offset by ditching the original liner?

I hope you don't mind me picking your brain on details. It's obvious you've thought this rehab through, and I'd like to get your perspective as you go along. I like your approach with the stringers. Use lightweight non-structural core, and let the laminate do the work.

I'm in the planning stages for my next project, complete rebuild of a '74 Hewes Bonefisher, and I'm thinking along some of the same lines.

Dave

I`ll be following this build. Billy also has a beautiful mind. And he likes to share.

Alright lets see. I think i over shot he weight

20 lbs of balsa
10 lbs of divilette putty
7 lbs of resin hot shot
50 lbs of resin
15 lb of 1708 and mat

100 lb total tops


I think between the old liner, rod locker bow step up and compartment it will be lighter

I am building a one peice flush deck out of composites that should weigh in under 180 lbs

Which will be much lighter than the original plywood

We will see. I am laying the hull sides up tomorrow

The stringers are hollow from the factory and the have held up over 40 years, so why change. A couple layer of fiberglass and it will be stronger than it was

Coffin box?

Dave

the plan is a lefty Kreh type console coffin box.

I like that

Cool. That's what I'm thinking for my 20 SF project after I finish my Hewes project. I'll be watching for ideas I can purloin. Ask strick, I'm a shameless copycat. :D

Dave

We are all here to learn and try to complete projects correctly and whether it is to change modify or copy each other, it all good.

got an hour this afternoon to start the glassing of the balsa to the hull sides. I cut and prepped everything first I dry fitted the 1708 to the sides and and cut and fitted it were it needed. I then cut a layer of 2oz mat to be the finishing glass so I can finish to. I don't like making the 1708 the finish layer as you can have print thru the primer and paint. the glass rolled out very easy since I tapered the balsa for a smooth angle. I just had to deal with the 90 degree turn at the bottom of the hull.


Before I started anything I vacuumed and cleaned the hull out, I also wiped the old hull down with some acetone to get it clean for a good bond.
Alright after I got the 1708 dry fitted I left it clamped to the hull with my handy spring clamps. I mixed up some divilette putty and put it in a caulk tube and squirted it where ever there was a void or gap. I kicked it slow so I didn't have to worry about it flashing off on me. I flopped it over to the outside of the boat and rolled resin to the balsa then flipped the 1708 over and rolled it out.

I measured the glass so the joint of the glass would not land on the joint of the balsa. I also shorted the mat layer by 6" so when I lay the next layer no joints are are all meeting each other in the same place.



I used 3 gallons total to roll out 9ft on each side of 1 layer of 1708 and 1 layer of 2oz mat.

so figure 7 gallons of resin to do the hull sides.

here is were I found the empty caulk tubes

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/aim-t...tm_content=pla

Well I called in a little help to do the bow section of lamination to get it done faster and lets face it, its not fun to do by yourself. We had 9ft of laminating left but the contour of the bow took me some time to get the pieces and angles correct. I did it in 6ft 2ft 1ft. I cut out the balsa around where the D hook comes in from the bow and sealed that off completely from it. I am gonna back fill with some dynaglass to keep it strong.

I am gonna raise the stringers next, along with building the bulkheads and the ledger for the deck to rest on around the outside.

Looks good. Were the stringers n this 72' foam filler?

nah they are hollow from what I have seen and cut open. some had a little foam in the top 2" but that it.

Bullet proof.

strick

Bout like this 67'. No foam tho at all inside the stringer grid. Crazy thing tho is there is a 1x4 on its edge on the inner side of the two inner stringers. Inside the stringer. Runs from the stern almost to the front of the stringers. Not real sure why the wood is in there. No glass or anything on it. Looks like it was put in there after the stringer grid was popped out of the mold.
I kinda like these stringers better than the box style. Easier to modify.

I finished building the stringers and had to push the boat to the side as we had an incoming snow storm and had to get a bunch of the trucks ready Alright it is almost liked a planned this. I have enough 2" foam leftover to build my bilge bulkheads out of. I want to say I have 18"x 8ft left so I ripped 12 strips at 2.5" off the panel. It took exactly 12 strips to lift the stringers from front to back and a little extra by the transom to build the stringers to the transom.

I am going to use 1" foam around the outside for the deck to sit on. I am hoping to get the stringers glassed in this weekend.

Excellent thread and quality work, thanks for taking the time to add the details of each step.
I am looking at rebuilding a 23' SC this year so these threads are like gold when it comes to approaching each step (challenge)!
I look forward to seeing updates as your restore gets further along.

well its been a long winter with a lot of snow plowing, the boat got pushed to the side for plow trucks, tractors, loaders, snow blowers, salt spreaders... ahh you get the point. I got the itch a week ago to start work again and made some progress in the past couple days.


alright got the stringers bedded in place with the devilette putty and went to work on the outer support


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/006-1.jpg


I used 1" devinycell for the outer band

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/014-4.jpg


here it is cut and shaped into place. I also bedded it with the devilette putty. I held it in place with the shims.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/016-3.jpg


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/017-1.jpg

I started working on the bulkheads in the center

I cut the foam 17"x 25" the stringer are lumpy and bumpy so I cut them big and shaped them back.

I had 3" hangin above the stringers so I took an extra piece of foam that was 3inches wide and used it as tracer. once it was fit into place I used the laminate trimmer to put a bull nose on the bulkhead upper corners to make it easier to wrap the glass around it.


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/018-1.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/019-3.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/020-1.jpg


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ky0707/023.jpg

I rolled the boat outside and cleaned the floor to cut the roving up. I rolled it out o the floor and used a sheet rock square to make everything straight and true.


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/007-1.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ky0707/004.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ky0707/005.jpg

I also bought a new pair of scissors from lowes, to cut the glass and boy what an awesome pair to cut glass. I cut roving like it was matt!!!!

http://www.claussco.com/product/5956..._Ti_Bent_Shear

well I dug in this afternoon and set a goal of glassing all the stringers in and I got it done. a lot of work for one person. I put the roll of roving in the boat and did the standard trimming and some marks with the marker. Then I layed out cardboard on the ground and wet out the roving on the ground. Went into the boat and wet down the stringers. I let the roving wet out for about 5-7 minutes enough time to soften it up.



http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ky0707/001.jpg


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/005-2.jpg


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/004-3.jpg


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/006-2.jpg

I got the roving cut for the bulkheads and got one side laminated


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0707/002-1.jpg