"Capt Chuck Any chance you know the manufacturer or distributor/store for the SS version you mentioned. After a quick internet search, I only found the plated Perko versions and plastic version by TH marine which can't be disassembled and cleaned."


https://www.bosunsupplies.com/ProductDeckHdwr.cfm

Guys I really need some help,regarding my previous posts.

1. Old deck sat on 3/4 inch potter putty back aft but sat on stringers up front. Raised stringers 2 1/4 inches with plywood. This only raised the back deck about 11/2 inches when finished. Do all 20s decks sit flush on stringers up front but above stringers aft? Should I shim back aft to raise it a true 2 1/4 inch?

2. I have searched all forums regarding filling scuppers permanently to bring them out the stern but I can't find a good step by step description. Do I just fill with epoxy? Do I put glass on the bottom of the hull and epoxy? Etc...

Thanks for any help. I'm at a stand still until I can get these two figured out.

Here is the way I filled my scupper holes. Dish out both the inside and the outside, I forget the recommended angle ratio but if your using epoxy you can put multiple layers on the inside to make sure the patch holds anyway, insurance. The most important thing is to get to original glass for a reliable bond and to do this far enough out from the hole as well. So you have your dish on the outside and inside. Epoxy resin one layer of cloth on the outside of the hull first and let that cure. Since you are working upside down, just check it to make sure no bubbles form and the patch does not pull. I had no problem there. Then you can work from the inside, use cabosile/silica to fill in the hole on the inside to the lip of your dish/bevel, only filling the the original hole. Then put multiple layers on the inside of the hull filling in the bevel. I like to start with small patches and work out with larger and larger cloth circles. The lighter the cloth the stronger the repair will be considering the same thickness of layup. I used quite a bit of layup on the inside of the hull and my largest patch is about a foot square. Overkill maybe, but why not. You can then fill and fair the outside of the hull, you will have a nice dish to fill, cloth again is better than fairing filler.

As to question # 1 I don't know if all 20's decks sit above the stringers aft but I have found that on some of the boats that I have tore into the deck does not sit flush on the stringers but rests on an inch or so of potter putty. I assume that when building the molds for the deck they made them short on purpose so there is a margin of error when bonding the deck to hull. I would put it back together in a way that is easiest for you to do and looks good as well.

For question # 2 I recently filled my scupper drains on the 20 sceptre I am restoring and although I did not show exactly how I did it I will tell you in detail. On the underside of the boat I removed the little wedges that create a vacuum for the scuppers and threw them in the garbage. I then took my grinder and ground down 3/16" deep or so thru the gel coat and well into the glass a circle about 5 inches diameter. I then cut 3 circular pieces of 1708 each a little bigger then the last one and the last one about 4 inches in diameter. I mixed some resin and thickened it slightly with cabosil...not too thick so I could still apply the resin with a roller. By adding cabosil to the resin it makes it more sticky so the glass adheres better for up side down glassing. I then glassed in place the three pieces of 1708 putting down the smallest piece first so that the second and third piece over lapped the one preceding it by about an inch. Let that cure and then sand and quick fair over it...prime and paint. On the inside of the boat I took a wire brush that fits on a drill and reamed/cleaned out the hole because there was lots of sealant still in the hole from the original brass drains. I then took a drill fitted with a heavy duty wire brush and ground through the gel coat the entire dish or bowel what ever you want to call it so it was into the bare glass about 1/8" Clean everything with acetone especially deep into the hole. I then took some 1.5 oz matt and chopped it into small bits and mixed it with resin. Using cabosil alone is not advised as it will crack unless there is some kind of webbing to give it strength. Next I applied the matt/resin mixture into the hole and well up into the bowel of the scupper drain. The next day after everything hardened I sanded the rough stuff smooth and glassed in several layers of 1.5 oz matt so the last piece of matt is flush with the deck gutters. Quick fair over that sand and then prime and paint.

strick

Norm and strick, that is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for taking the time to read, understand and answer my questions. THANK YOU!!!

Elijah

i have some leakage in my 20fter and suspect its from the deck scuppers. i'm thinking of doing the same thing. that was good advice. i may give it a try.

After receiving some good advice I ground down around the scuppers on the hull and tomorrow will prep the inside of the tube. I think I should be alright just roughing it up pretty good since it has previously been filled with epoxy and re drilled. Does that sound right to you guys? Then prep the topside of the scupper.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8cf1c275.jpg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...pse0dc0391.jpg

are you gonna plug that and glass over it, chance?

Yes I am, just as strick advised above. I'm piecing this thing together over the winter I don't even have any fiberglass supplies yet. But hopefully soon ill have sometime.

Looks good but make sure you grind deep enough into the glass to accommodate at least two but better still three pieces of 1708. You dont want to see a bulge there after you are finished :)

strick

Okay, will do. Thanks again Strick!

thank you!

Scuppers are all glassed on the bottom. Ill fill em in later than glass the tops. Bottom has 5 layers: mat,woven, mat, woven, mat. The top will me similar and probably more.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps64232fcf.jpg

no sweat,pack rat.

Update. Stringers raised and glassed. Deck cut and dry fitted. Console under going a major face lift and lyposuction of 6 inches out of the middle.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5ea15909.jpg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0cfe3c12.jpg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psc59a6ac2.jpg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psf4b01cd0.jpg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psac542781.jpg

looking good. be in the water before you know it. i gotta do work on mine come spring. gotta find out where the water getting into the bildge is coming from.

I got a few hours to my self after the inlaws left from thanksgiving today so I did a little work on the console. I don't know if I like the angle where my gps and switches will be but I need to have room on top for a compass and a beer.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f2121d5.jpg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps53e65ad9.jpg
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http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psfc03c362.jpg

If you are not to far along I would recommend a more shallow angle on the upper part of your console. I have the factory small console on my 23cc. It has a similar steep angle where the gauges and electronics go. It makes it difficult to see the electronics while you are leaning or standing against the leaning post. Basically the gauges are facing your body not your face.

Here's another question for you. In the below picture, the white un-wetted fiberglass area on the stringer is where the steering cable and throttle cables passed through the deck and then through that area to run outboard and then aft. Since my tank was above deck previously, I had all the room under the deck to bend cables to go aft. Now I am planning a new tank that will end right at the aft end of the last piece of plywood under the deck. I plan on putting the console back in the original place. The problem is that my cable run went through the deck at the un- wetted fiberglass spot which was almost the very back of the console. So , I assume that In order for a new tank to work it will have to be notched on the starboard side the entire length so that I may use the old cable run area through the stringer. I hope I explained that well enough. Is my thinking correct? The tank I want is 60x23x10. Or I could use only a 20" wide tank and push it all the way to port thus leaving me some room for cables. That will offset my center of gravity which I could probably compensate for with battery placement. But fuel load obviously changes. What do you all recommend?

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...pse2148a2a.jpg

Moesly always put the fuel tank right on the CG because, as a pilot with thousands of hours in his logbook, he understood the importance of minimizing changes to the CG. I'd suggest you find out where the below deck tank was located on the later CC's and put yours in the same spot!

My 20 sf is a 1969 and appears to be built identical as yours. The tank was courtesy of Bigshrimpin.

I was hoping you would chime in strick. I thought it was you with the notched tank. Are you implying that I may infact own a 69 and not a 73 as titled. I definitely don't think it a 73, it must be older than that.

Strick,do you remember the dimensions of that tank?

I have tried to attack the steep angle of my console electronic display. Here is what I have come up with. I didn't tilt the whole thing because it would not leave enough room on top for compass and drink holders. I actually like the semi customized look that I see in my head when finished.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4595a9d0.jpg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...pse56f43e0.jpg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3bc3abf5.jpg

Sorry I dont that was a few years ago. Bigshrimpin got that tank and then gave it to me as he ended up not needing it. You might PM him and maybe he remembers where he bought it. You boat does look older then a 73 to me. The CC is looks exactly like my 69.

YOURS

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0096d8cc.jpg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psb11dd779.jpg


MINE

I tried to take advantage of the forecasted weather of nearly 60 degrees today and fiberglass the fuel tank supports in place. Nice forecasting, they neglected to tell any one of the rain showers. Next on the list is to continue on the console.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psf89d52a2.jpg

I was fortunate enough to buy sceptre20's hermco splashwell. When he brought it over to test fit before I bought it, it was obviously too wide. I need a splashwell with this 20 inch transom so I decided to take it with making some modifications to it in mind. I hated to cut it up but I had no choice. I screwed up a little on the port side, but nothing I can't fix. I ended up taking out about 10 inches out of it and some other small cut outs were removed. Here what I got now.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps610377cc.jpg

As I get deeper into this rebuild, I am confident that this hull is a 70' 71' or maybe a 72. I have noticed that beside my stringer configuration that 70, 71, and maybe 72 hulls have a more rectangular rear seats. Later hulls have nearly square seats back aft. Also the transom notch seems more narrow in earlier hulls. Also, my deck cap has no coring except in the bow. the rest of it is solid glass which is nice. i think Stricks was the same way and his is a 69. is anyones 20 cap cored all the way around? Just my thoughts. Hope to get some work done soon on the console once I get some more resin. Until then i'll play with the splash well. Second edit...also just ordered a fuel tank from tony at sunrise. Super nice guy and fellow seacrafter! Should be here late next week I think.

The early 20's had narrower splashwells and motor cut outs. The cutout on mine was just barely wide enough to accommodate a V-4 when it was tilted all the way up. Potter didn't start making those splashwell tubs until the late 70's when they had gone to a wider cutout for twin in-line engines.

And yes, those seats look a lot like the ones on my '72!

My seats measure 22" across by 16" deep.

Finally got the holes filled and some more glass and resin so I started on the console again. Hopefully I get a lot done during Christmas vacation.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1bdc4c41.jpg

FWIW my 72 Seafari has original aft hatches and is cut for a single. Hatches are 19-1/4" across x 16-1/4" deep...

My tank from sunrise arrived today. It is exactly as I wanted it size and fitting locations are perfect. Thank you so much Tony.
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps10ec03c1.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psf22597da.jpg

Sweet!!! And way towards the bow, very nice!! Good luck :)

Thanks Don, I just hope it's not to far forward. I only have a 2 stroke 115 on the back. And I plan on putting two batteries under the console as far forward as possible. The tank comes back to just aft of the aft end of the console so hopefully it will sit okay when drifting or idling to get any water out. The tank is 49 gallons, it is perfect for what I'll be doing. Near shore stripers and chasing bluefin on the good days east of Chatham. I finished glassing the console and ordered some fairing compound from Mertons to test out. I am not going for showroom/strick condition but decent for a rookie. Now I have to find some plastic strips to 5200 to the bottom of the tank. Anyone know where to get anything like that that won't corrode the tank? I'll get some pictures after I try the fairing compound. What grit do you recommend for the fairing compound, 220?. She's coming along, I'll have to start filling all the holes on the cap soon too. I think I may be having to much fun working after work. I do enjoy all the little battles won and making my brain work at something I've never done before.

Regarding the strips, at home depot/lowes in the gardening section...look around. I found some trim for landscaping, not the black plastic stuff, but more like they build those park benches out of that last forever...it was dirty cheap and looks like it will outlast me.

Awesome, thanks Tiny.

Began fairing the console tonight and it already looks awesome.

Well the transom is junk. Surprise, surprise...

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psc2390b7f.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4bd59ef5.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7c7ede02.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2348b7cc.jpg

Ahhhh yes.......brings back memories, however not all fun and pleasant memories, of what my transom looked like. The brown/black goo of waterlogged wood. :) Looking good!!