I sure do wish I had a garage or barn like some of you have to roll the boat in and get it done.
This rain is really slowing me down

So moving along slowly but moving along in finishing replacing wood from the top cap
But I have a question on something I read here.

I am raising my transom to 26 and I understand that I may have an issue with the engine mounting bolts and my Master Angler splash well

What have other MA owners experienced and what has been the solutions?

I guess either way it means more glasswork and more grinding

If its a big issue with the bottom bolts then maybe just go with 25" instead

Bolt holes
 

Jorge, Can you just bolt one of those CNC Manual Jack plates were you can get a set of bolts through the transom and then hang the engine on the bracket and you can "tweak" the vertical adjustment for your exact prop diameter and pitch. Kmoose has his boat set up with one and it is pretty sweet.

Lots of people think both Kmoose and Blue Heron are both grouchy, but they ain't. They's just always study'in and think'in and cogitat'in about stuff and they ain't got time for no small talk - they's busy "plann'in and plott'in". I just get around 'em and learn by osmosis!

I think I'm going to get from a marine engine supplier of mine a paper diagram that you can put on the transom that shows where to drill the bolts . I read that taking it to 27 may do the trick. Putting a jack plate is probably out

Would really like to here from another MA owner that did the same job as mine and see what they did

Well I'm done with the top cap and I'm waiting for my son and some of his friends to flip it and put it back on. Took a pic of the raised transom up to 26.

It going to be raining here this weekend so I don't think much can be done.

Well a bit of progress on the build

Added flotation foam to the top cap, came out nice,

Worked on gas tank...cleaned it up and sprayed it with some zinc chromate and is now ready for the coal tar treatment.

I am looking for either someone that has some they want to sell or if they know some place local to buy a quart

Ordered the pourable transom material today should be here by Thursday and get it done this weekend weather permitting.

Pictures to follow

Seacast is what I have been considering doing as well, let us know how that goes, take pictures!

I did the Arjay and Skip & Carla (65Bowrider) did the seacast. In my case so far so good after 6+ years and I think Skip is still happy with his. I did mine by taking off the transom skin and then replacing it, Skipper left his on and dug out the bad wood from the top. If all the wood is rotten going from the top is easier.

I also took off the skin took out the nasty wood and glassed in the skin again and am going from the top. Curious how much seacast did you use?

I used the Arjay and don't remember the exact amount, we did my brother's transom at the same time and we bought a lot. Send Skipper a PM on the seacast product. Hang on....I do remember using the volume formula on the web site and added 10% and it worked perfect. If you use either, rule #1, no leaks!

Well some progress today. Poured flotation foam. Some spots I went over but a little trimming and it's done. I did not put foam where the rod holders and other things will go so I don't have to dig out the foam while upside down. Painted the anchor locker and bilge since it easy to get to now. Picked up 2 buckets of Arjay pour transom bu am short one more bucket....Monday... Was able to pick up a free leaning post....just needs the rod holders and cushions. But it was free.

Wish the rain would stop.

Glass ing and grinding. ....does it get any better?

Yep when it ends

Poured the transom today. Was a little short so I need to pick up another 5 gallon pail. Easy to use poured easily and except for a overlooked screw hole all went well

Well the new year begins and it's time to make a Huge push and get the boat closer . The transom is poured and will be trimming it to 26 1/4 . Reattach the top to the hull . Decided to close the 2 rear ventilation vents on both sides. I like the look better. Begin looking for the new console. I like the one someone used on theirs from a pathfinder. Do a final prep and sand and get her painted. Then the real money is to be spent. In no particular order trailer hydraulic steering trim tabs rub rail electronics t-top wiring. Damm I need to break out another thousand. ...LOL

Slow progress due to work. But a little work done this weekend . I sealed up the side vents. I really didn't like the look to begin with.

transom was done today cut it to 26 1/2 . got dark so no pictures .

will be wrapping it up in the next few days and fairing it. the top gunnel will be next to go on a little (no who am I kidding) sanding and off to get painted. It may be a late summer boat.

Even the Admiral came out and was pushing me to get'er done

And it's sitting on the trailer too

Needs another layer of glass to wrap it up and then sanding fairing which should be done by weekend

Put the cap back on today caulked and screwed in

Wife pulled up in the driveway and she said it's starting to look like a boat again

So with a 70% chance of rain today I guess there won't be any glassing or sanding today.

But a question... I want to add an additional layer of mat to the floor. What may should I use to finish it off?

Guess I'll be working on the trailer

So I'm getting to the point where I have to start looking at what paint I'm going to be using.

I've heard of the genius bucket, and a lot of other paints.

I hav3 someone the knows whats he's doing that would spray whichever product I decide on.

So what are some of the favorites that he been used and the pros and cons to them


Getting exited to get'er done soon.

Was looking at various power options also and I'm in between a 140 zuke or a merc 150 to 200 ers.
I think a yamaha 150 may be to heavy

Looks good! I can relate to how much work this is. I'm working on (I think) year 3 of my restore and I'm hoping I can buy a motor in next spring. I'll admit, I'm a bit of a slacker and I have 2 other boats that take my time.

As for paint, do you plan to trailer it or leave it in? I trailer my aquasport, and I'm in the process of stripping the "green crap" and applying VC Performance Epoxy to the bottom. If I get ambitious, I may do Imron on the rest, but for now just the bottom. You have your choice of colors with the VC, as long as your choice is white.

You may want to look into the merc115 with Command Thrust. I think that's what I've decided on for mine mainly due to the power/weight ratio. At the 115 hp range, its the lightest, even over an etec. Its really close to a yamaha but more displacement. I think it'll be enough power. Heck, I know a guy with an old yamaha 90 2 stroke on his 20 and he loves it. I'm pretty sure there is someone on here with the Merc 115.

Signature Finish paint has the advantages of being very durable and user friendly, is easily repairable and can be buffed, no primer required, can be ordered in any color you want, and will hold up below the waterline, where most urethane paints will bubble. Is marketed for DIY types, basically roll & tip. I'm sure it can be sprayed, but no directions on web site for spraying, so may need to contact owner Tom for more guidance on spraying it. Has been used by Capt. Chuck, DonV and myself with good results.

Good luck getting hold of Tom at Signature. I called him the other day, after waiting a week to receive a reply from my return email, he answered the phone and was very sick. He asked me to send the info on email, I told him I had already emailed it. Still nothing but crickets..........

Yea, I'm not surprised, the other negative with Signature is it's future viability due to health of owner. Tom lives in nearby Hobe Sound, so it's cheaper to just drive up there to pick up stuff than pay shipping. Last time I saw him was over 3 years ago and he didn't look too healthy then!

yes I guess that would be a concern ...unless you by enough to repaint the boat just in case.

well I almost have the transom glassed...except the very top.

I've had a little difficulty having the mat stay flat going from the splash well over the transom and then down to the bottom.

I have to cut grind and re-due just that part to make it look right.

Tomorrow I hope to finish laying another layer of mat and begin to sand and fair the following day... again


Then it's another layer of mat to the floor and start fairing it. Oh how much fun!!!!

Not sure how heavy your mat is but I've had luck with heavier mats by dividing it into two "thinner" mats. Its a little tricky to do, but if you get it just right, you can split it along the "Z" axis and have two mats that may lay down easier than one heavy one. I have to say though, usually once the resin dissolves the glue in the mat, it usually lays down pretty well. Is it a spot where you are also fighting gravity?

It's grinding and sanding time

Ah, the fun part.

jorge how heavy was the cap when you took it off?

Not heavy at all. 3 guys. Make sure to use some cross braces

Not really took 3 guys. More was not letting it flex and crack it. I user some 2x4s as cross members to not only help in picking up and flipping it but also not let it flex
Had a look of rotten wood in the areas such as rod holders and lights.
Replaced wood with nida core and and new foam which most was missing.
If you have it off for an extended time cross brace the hull so it won't flair on you.

Ask me how I know....

Almost done with the transom. Getting it nice and smooth

Jorge how did you fill the gap between the liner/ edge of floor and the hull? mine is cracked all along. i am probably going to lay some foam strip in then some arjay then tabb it into the hullside with resin and tape.

well I finished the sanding on the transom and splash well. It came out pretty good although the pictures don't show it.

Question should I lay a coat of primer over that area since I will be tackling the floor and rest of the hull and I'm worried about the rain and sun ?

Now to the floor.
I did the floor with Nida Core and layed several layers of mat on top.
I feel like I need an additional layer and was thinking of a layer of 1704.
Me and my 2 sons all weigh over 225 and I don't want any issues down the road.

Also there are some low spots that when I hose it with water I can see.
Was thinking of 1st hitting it with a layer of mat to bring it up prior to the 1704 mat.
Then fair and back to sanding it.
I don't think it needs to be perfect since it will be covered with non skid but I would like it to be as level as possible.

Looking for what some of the others here have done??????

Took a break from sanding the boat and gave some attention to the 2 deck hatches that covers the gas tank. Took the old non skid off both. And I took out the square inspection cover that was over the tank. It was ugly and in my mind just let water drip onto the gas tank.

Then I got out the original splashwell and noticed some staining on it from wood rot. Sure enough the thin layer of wood on the curved part was toast. Was able to use a blade to take the skin off the inside uglier side and took out the rotten wood. I guess it's an easy fix.

Update on the splashwell. Ground down the old wood and took out some left over nida core scored it to accommodate the curve and will glass that in.

Tomorrow is another day