That would have been a lot less work than the way I chose> lesson learned. The reason for the two sheets is for easy take down and moving it. the only place I have is the unfinished Lanai to work under cover.

Thanks, I plan on useing the bubble buster on lay up and will try to cover with peel ply then use a 6" roller on the peel ply to get excess resin out of the cloth.

Picked up 7 yds. of Vail and will use on areas that will be finish pieces.

How do I move the thread to repairs and mods?? Or is that not the correct place???

How do I move the thread to repairs and mods?? Or is that not the correct place???[/QUOTE]

Send pm to Captn' Chuck

Pump
 

Last detail complete next week end will start to skin coat the boards. I wanted a way to dispence the resin and not spend a lot of time cleaning up.

That Resin Dispenser deserves the "Gucci Stamp" Award :eek:

Spidercrab would be proud of you .........

Only got one of the boards skin coated on one side. This is a two inch foam board intended to raise the stringers. I used peel ply and a six inch roller to force out excess resin.

Question is there a better way to remove excess resin other than vacuum bagging?

Tried a nida board with and w/out peel ply and I believe the results are the same. Went with a 6" roller to move the resin around then to a 4" spreader to remove excess resin then back to the 6" roller to lay it out smooth.
This is all new to me, the biggest board I've done in the past was 28X60". Already getting more confidence as I go.

Received the MOB yesterday. Found it on THT good deals thread w/discount code. Will be especially nice on the long hauls.

The resin pump was a flop, seems the resin and pump seals do not play well together. It froze up.

Well that's a bummer! Being sensitized to epoxy I had high hopes. It was a nice try though:)

Glad to see you moving right along Ed. You told me you weren't going to let her sit around and you are a man of your word. Keep it rolling and keep posting pics!

I just got an email from Don and my bracket just hit the mold!

Glad to hear the bracket is going to be on its way soon. As far as getting the boat done, I've pushed up the finish date to April first 2017. Well that is to say in the water and running. I'm sure there will be things to do like adding radar and other expensive items.

Ed

Bait Well
 

Picked up a water aerator tank this week and plan to repurpose as the live well. It will need to be beefed up some with mat and csm. The nice thing is at the end of the day I can open the drain and empty easily.

Still laying up boards so no great progress on the boat to date.

Happy Dolphin Meets Sea Craft
 

Still skinning boards. But finally got the girl home and will do the clean up today. This Thursday will start to remove the wood transom and hope to get the new one in place. It's going to help a lot now that I start a three day work week.

The Happy Dolphin looks so small next to the SC.

Shower and a shave
 

Only got one board skinned on one side and spent the rest of the day going to HD, Lowes, garden chores and a beginning clean up of the interior. Some of the growth really needed to join the dollar shave club.

Question, the boxed style stringers in the bilge area at the stern, those are hollow should I enclose them and foam fill?

where are you in englewood? send me a pm if you want some immoral support from time to time...i'm always off island tues and thur.

Natecert,
I believe the two box-style stringers in the transom bilge area are the original engine beds from when the boat was an inboard/outboard. When I had my transom redone recently on my 1978 23' Sceptre I/O, we found the wood that was laminated into these for the engine mounts to lag into were totally soaked and rotten. My advice would be to drill a sample out of them and see what lurks inside.

I am following this thread closely; I am fascinated by the process and wish I had the time and skills to do a project like this on my own. Good luck!

Water Rat, thanks I totally missed that they are rotted out. Just may remove to give more room in the bilge. Likely will be a bit busy there with multiple pick ups and pumps etc.

Regarding skill, I'm learning as I go plus talking to people that know what they are doing.

Transom
 

Finally got hands on the boat instead of ancillary items. The inside skin is coming off easier than I though. The used Rockwell tool and blade used for wood/nails made a big difference.

Now that I know the two box frames in the bilge are not structural they will be removed for more space. I started on them and it will be more work than it looks, a lot of glass in there.

Removing the wood is more of a project than I thought. Going to borrow a chain saw and see if that helps. Taking the most of the day off to do on line tests for the CEU'S i need.

Made a run to Fiber Lay-Sarasota on Thursday and again Ryan was a big help also found a way to discount the bill $50. One more board to skin coat and they are done.

Nice project. You're in an area that I'm focusing on - the liner to hull connection near the helm and passenger seat.

Could you take some pix of what it looks like under the floor looking forward on both sides ?

I want to tighten up that area and am focusing on the joint that connects the hull and liner near where the liner seam, that is 6" off the floor, runs horizontal to the floor, then vertically up the side. I am planning on glassing those seams inside and outside to make the liner and topside one ...

Abl1111
 

Don't know if these will help but I tried.
First pic and second, slid the camera in and took the shot.
Third and fourth put the camera behind the fiberglass rope and shot.
Fifth, port side
Last, under the cuddy floor/stuff I didn't know I had

Thx for taking the time to snap those pix. The original one is still the best in terms of giving me an idea of how it;s all put together. I'm going to post back to my post in "General". Thank you again and good luck ! Finished my resto 12-13 years ago. I look at recent resto's and smile partially remembering all that F'ing thinking, sanding and doing and, how I swear I'd never do it again - until the next time… :)

Somehow I think it would be easier the second time around !

Hey Ed! I picked this up at a garage sale just down the street from your house. :D

You most politely have my utmost jealousy.

Holy Moley Moose....:eek:

A SpermCo bracket with 3 Armstrong pie plates.... :eek::eek::rolleyes:

Hope you picked it up for less than 3.......

Shopping in my hood
 

Hey Ken that's a good find. I must have been sleeping on the job. What kind of bracket is it? Also how is your project going?

Regarding my progress, almost sorry I am removing the wood in the transom, solid wood is not fun to get out.

Ed

Now Ed knows exactly how Hillary feels...:D haha

Only messing with Ed. I ordered my bracket from Don over a month ago.

Yeah, you said you and Mel were heading over to get it. Sure looks big in the back of the Tundra!! Sweet!

It was all Mel. I sat in the passenger seat and cried like a girl the whole trip. I got the bronchitis bad.

Now Ed knows exactly how Hillary feels... haha
Good one!!
kmoose, Yep I took the bait, hook, line and sinker.

Terry England stopped by on Saturday to chat and some thing stuck w/me it's my boat do what you want. So, will probably cut down the curved top of the transom and make it flat, I want a small cooler for bait prep and rod holders on each side.

Already bought a thick starboard hatch cover for the bait tank and will go back to the Marine Trading Post in NFM to get two more for the cooler lids, will double as cutting boards.

If any one has pointers on getting the transom wood out I'm all ears>

Ed, I'm doing the same thing on my transom. I was going to leave it open but have decided to flat across the back. I like the idea of added storage and or livewell.

As far as getting the wood out...... You are in virgin territory on that one considering it was not rotten. I know this sounds extreme but I would consider building a new transom skin. Many fiberglass guys don't even bother with wrecking out old transoms as it's usually more labor intensive unless you are trying to save the original gel coat. Considering you will likely paint the whole boat I would just cut it out and build a new one.

Ed, here's how I did mine. My transom was rotten on both sides below the small hatches, the wood around the engine was fine. I took off the rear skin and after the goo was removed, pretty much with a putty knife, I took a circular saw and set the blade at 1 3/8" deep. I cut across the good wood in 2" strips and chiseled out the wood off the inner skin. Pretty much a PIA. After that it was cleaning up with a 4" angle grinder with 24 or 36 grit disc.

If it was me, I'd think hard about Moose's suggestion.

Kmoose
That has crossed my mind. However with the inner skin removed I am concerned with the hull being warped. As Terry mentioned about another re build where the cap was removed and the hull spread some four inches.
I sent in the pre- order to Hemco and have not heard back. Should I call?? Would like to pick up between Xmass and New Year's. There are some good places in the area to look over pre loved parts.

Don
The checker board cut I have done is about 6X8 and think I will follow your lead and make more cuts. Get the first 3/4 ply out and then work on the second one. Worst case scenerio will be I cut thru the outer skin in a few places.

In the end IT WILL COME OUT. Just slowing me down and chompin at the bit to get on with the resurection.

Ed

Good luck. The inner skin on my 23 was very thin, basically a water barrier, the outer skin was very thick as I figure yours is. You should have no problem getting the wood out, a 1 1/2" wood chisel is all I used! An air chisel would work very well with extreme caution.

Yeah, the chisel. Mine was wetter i guess, as it came out in a large chunk and pieces :eek:

I have been using a one inch and a one an a half inch wood chisel along with a medium size wrecking bar. Broke down a bought a new 1.5" chisel, hope it helps. Also have a 0* cut off tool that helps a lot, just slow. If I push it too hard it will cook the cutting teeth. At thirty something a pop for the blades I'm trying to use only the $100 worth I have already bought.

To break things up I plan to work on the transom until I get tired of it then work ont he live well, doing glass work.

Not going to worry about the transom, just keep plodding along until its done.
With all the boards skin coated things should move along well after the transom is out. Especially since my neighbor TA has offered to help with the glass work on the weekends. He is a joy to watch doing glass work, much faster and better than me in all respects.

When it comes time to remove the cap I have three people lined up to help, hope that's enough. Don't have a large flat area so will have to make something in the back yard for that part of the project.

Thanks for the support and comments.

Ed

I would call and have your credit card ready to pay half up front. You won't be disappointed in the end product.

kmoose, i have got the bracket ordered an will be ready around the first of the year. Plan on picking it up and spend an over night on the east coast and look for boat items over there.
While ordering the bracket I found the transom is bowed and will need to address that as part of the process of the replacement. Good thing I am replacing the wood otherwise a bracket would be impossible due to it being non uniform port to starboard.

Got bored with hammer and chisels and started the live well. The flat will be used for all water in and out. 1.5" over flow set for full and 1/2 tank level and two feeds, one 3/4" and one 1" from two separate pumps. The ball valve on the underside will make it quick to dump the the tank and have no residual water to slime up the bottom of the tank.

Also laid up 1707 and csm on the sides and bottom to give the aerator tank more strength, was not intended to be on a pounding boat.