So I got 2 things done today

1. I got the power head reattached to the driveshaft. That was a job. I want a forklift or a chain fall. I did it using a come-along and a ratchet strap.

2. My new hull ID plate came In. What you guys think?

By the way I found an old thread by somebody that explains the serial numbers. In my case 25CIO stands for 25’ cuddy, Inboard, Outboard.
Hoping this will help others.

https://i.postimg.cc/r0B4N89k/6E8463...437409BD64.jpg

Monday I was working on putting the decks back together. One of the pieces I cut out was rotted through and I skinned it and replaced the core. After that I had to make some cabinet doors.

Today was pouring the rain all day. But I needed to do something so we redid the cabin door threshold. The old one was painted, crack and termite eaten. Note teak is $31/bd foot here. That’s 12” wide x 12” long by 1” thick=$31. But what can I say, it’s worth it!

Dimensions on this threshold piece are 4.75” wide at base x 23.125 (1/8”) length x 1.5” thick.

https://i.postimg.cc/0bsLjQSL/8-FF4-...73-A31-BB2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/c6Ymb714/BCEB07...CFAE20D777.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Kk3dk3Jy/1-D512...571-DD2-E6.jpg

Gluing up teak is not really that hard, but you can’t just slap the glue and clamps on. The key is to take acetone and paper towels or a WHITE shop rag (red will bleach out and ruin your piece). Go over it several times the oil will be sucked away.

Setup your saw with a ripping blade at 45 degrees on 4.75”.

https://i.postimg.cc/hJ5kt18r/7-CEE8...C215-A2184.jpg

Make one pass. Turn end for end and make second pass. I then cut to thickness on edge at 1.5” in retrospect cutting that first might have been easier on me but harder on the blade. If you’ve never made tenons etc, cut it first For safety.

https://i.postimg.cc/GBt0R5Dt/8177-F...E1-B337147.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/2Lpg4jKL/9-A2-E...-AE47369-E.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/MXRCzRn7/A35-A4...B293-E4930.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/nX086JCN/CBE5B3...1249F8C0F1.jpg

4-5 coats of teak oil. I don’t really count I’m just looking for build up when it stops soaking in.
https://i.postimg.cc/pycYpc3z/6752BA...3D76EB3032.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/vc179Ldj/F4D695...EBA480D906.jpg

I’ll finish it using the same process outlined before. Note this finish will need to dry overnight maybe longer. The shellac dries in minutes so no worries but the Pettit flagship will take hours to dry.

So the deck got glassed back in on the piece over the fuel tanks, I had to cut it out in order to get access to bulkhead.

https://i.postimg.cc/Lqz5HwLj/6653C3...3E192053B3.jpg

Having a serious dry run on fishing. No ahis (yellow fin tuna) or ono’s (wahoo) in last 6 trips. On the plus side we’ve found dolphins last 3 trips. And young brothers lost 12 containers off the ship Sunday night we found them Monday.

https://i.postimg.cc/pp6pkDP5/1393CE...13FF4D838F.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/zLm3Y8bJ/9E51F9...D45519E9CA.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/TL0Pbbkw/BB1D3F...769C6CACAB.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/k2RDHB51/28D6CC...EE9BB05791.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/TLfwh0JF/73B7C9...704D3E03CE.jpg

Started priming the topside today.
Am all out of primer 4:1 so 5 quarts and still not enough for 1 coat. I’ll have to go cross island to get some more and a 2nd gallon of paint. Thought 1 of each would be enough

Understanding please:
1. It’s no dry yet and light does weird things
2. It’s not even a full coat, yet. I’ll inspect for defects and then redcoat the main areas again. Unless it’s under non-skid....but my ocd might kick in.

Love seeing everybody else’s builds on here. Great to see these boats getting worked on.

https://i.postimg.cc/QKG47fW7/1A73DC...E8485A22F4.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/VSvVPr8J/809D5F...BACBC5521F.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/30XLF2gc/D52C25...D1C61D4B1E.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/vDfSywpt/91CB0C...D1DA1E971B.jpg

I plan on gelcoating the bilge, eventually

Looking good!

Was finally able to get more primer and some good weather and work issues to all sync up. It’s not been very glamorous. Sanding, sanding and a little more sanding.

On to painting! Wrapped the boat in masking film so wouldn’t get overspray on finished portions. Been working out to in more or less on the cap.

I’m very impressed with this valspar tb540pb White paint that a marine store stocks and convinced me to use. It’s about same price/gallon as interlude or Pettit. But, it was much easier to apply than brightsides or easypoxy, faster drying, and amazing results. It’s 4:1, 10-25%. Combined with the legacy primer 9860 also from valspar and some store I’m loving this.

I guess this is what many guys use around here.

I used grits for non-skid. (Sue me, it’s 2.50/box) and I had some leftover Pettit ezpoxy platinum gray from the hull. I sprayed the hatches white with my hvlp setup. And then rolled on the Pettit with a 3/8” roller and promptly coated in grits. Let sit overnight. Recovered the excess with a brush. Then vacuumed off and shook them upside down. And covered with 2 more coats of paint. I suppose 1 would do but I didn’t put it in too heavy.

https://i.postimg.cc/jLNg1Nv4/145B51...0D1B9F4C99.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/c6v5QPnj/D2519D...981471B266.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/9ww8Cq2V/D6F78E...9FBFC23D61.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/1gRv4dSv/1B301C...2E1E98B636.jpg

Here’s nonskid on the hatch for cabin. Taping’s not perfect but I let my artistic daughter do it so it’ll be a memory for her

Fighting chair hatch over fuel tanks. Getting the 1.5” radius between paint and nonskid was less than fun on curves. With a center point i made a rope compass but on the curve without one. Bust out the trusty combo square...

https://i.postimg.cc/9Dh8HMn5/638C8C...855634DB89.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/TLF07YDs/1F026F...5D381AF2BD.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/jD48xbpW/9662F5...6B0620CE61.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/dZCBzPRV/25CBF0...8125B0E8F3.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Q9HSJWH5/934E1F...0E0BD198A9.jpg

I’ll keep painting as I have time. The top of cap is mostly done. It may need another coat in some areas and some non-skid on the gunnels where you get in. I’m thinking plain white there. The Gray is to tell you this is a safe surface. The white nonskid means use caution anyway.

I still have to paint the cabin and most of the deck and nonskid it.

Then will be gel coating bilge, teak pedestal mounts, teak helm controls, plumbing, and wiring (Not sure the exact order yet...)

I still don’t have a working engine at this point, I either need a 1200 flywheel for my Suzuki 2 stroke, fix these twin ancient evinrude 115’s, or buy something. I hate all my options.

And the trailer is whispering sweet nothings in my ear... I’ll need to replace and weld up frame rails, replace or clean up the leaf springs, trailer hubs and bearings, brake lines, and wiring. Wobble rollers don’t look too bad. I toyed with going to bunk trailer but some of these ramps are steep ramps and at low tide it’s worse.

Nice work...good to see you are including your daughter...I have some pics of when my kids were younger helping me out on the boat. You could not give me a trailer with rollers...they put dimples in boats over time...but to each their own I understand the shallow water thing...I had a duo prop volvo out drive with a 350 HP in mine I think...it was not fast at all and I likened it to a strong tractor...lots of torque...

strick

Ty, sir. I appreciate all the help and feedback. I can’t wait to start putting all the bling on it.

I’m trying to make it a family thing: son, daughters, and wife helping. Hopefully some good memories this way. And a less angry CNO (chief of naval operations).

It came with a roller trailer. I was pleasantly surprised to find no signs of dimples in hull although it had been on it for years. I’m still debating it pretty hard. Bunks would be much easier To retrofit in trailer. I’ll post pics when I get there. It’s in bad shape. I have several months to decide.

Cap, deck and cabin are all painted. This valspar tb540pb is just awesome to work with. I like it much better than interlux Brightsides and Pettit EZPoxy. Flows through the gun really well. Dries faster. Has a smoother finish, and seems harder too. It’s been soaked in water with no adverse side affects for about 24-48hrs.

The deck’s getting non-skid. Cutting the radii was a challenging task. I found the black lid on my shaker bottle and a quarter to be the 2 sizes I needed for corners etc. I’m using 1.5” masking tape for edges.

https://i.postimg.cc/hz8ywfK4/38F6B7...EDBC188D1A.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/jW7kHM97/DBC90D...CFDDEB86CD.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/qNY56Pmr/8C0CDE...BAA33C0A03.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/649jNtQr/1E9F13...28687F2087.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/RqRpL6PX/BDFC3D...5E17D69A2C.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/kD9hSFy2/A213A2...4AE1FC276A.jpg

And yes my brand new paint got gecko’ed. They are good luck in Hawaii. Not sure if it’s good luck that happened or not. But I really don’t believe in it. But still no bananas on board....(or anything with a peel).

The decks are done.

I still need to secure the teak racks, bright work, and have a few touch ups to do on paint but I’m pretty happy with it. I still want to cut and buff the exterior with compound and polish. I really don’t wanna 2000 grit wet sand it but I’ve done crazier things...

https://i.postimg.cc/crRtS6mp/732817...3942BB5DAF.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/GHwTVvkP/2473A6...974CACF7F1.jpg

The grits gave a great texture. But the fire ants love these things. I HATE fire ants. The Hawaii small fire ant is murder. Thats the only downside so far.

I’ve been rigging up led light strips in cockpit, installing fuse blocks, and planning out the wire routing. Also been making teak pieces for the foot rests and helm station.

Led lights strips are installed I silicone them the whole length of each gunnel.

https://i.postimg.cc/jDw36Zwb/0C7913...D48DA7D904.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/jDw36Zwb/0C7913...D48DA7D904.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/WdBW5ggJ/A524C8...176C05AD4D.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/nCwwQ6L2/CE8769...7F52A3977F.jpg

1 circuit down. 29 more to go?

Major changes
 

Well, my outboard is DOA. I was dead set on recycling my 98 Suzuki dt200 but I ruined the flywheel and threw it away not realizing how rare the right one is. Btw, Suzuki quit making them this year. My dealer is trying to find one but I have no hope. I hate to lose deck space but with a swim platform and improved balance (terry and I messed with it and i think I’ll be happier this way) this will be a better option in long run I believe.

So I got a 5.3 LS from my friend. He was about to junk this truck before he moves. So getting a running motor is a score. The engine is fine (I’ve worked on it over the years for him, but he blew the ecm when he put batt cables on backwards). I plan to tear this LMG Down and look it over and try to make 500hp out of it. I’ll post pics once I get it and tear down underway. I’m hoping the bottom is sound will replace main bearings, will replace cam, heads, lifters, intake, throttle body, timing chain set, and marinize it. I’m resisting the urge to stroke it out to .383 but I do have a budget to live on...

Hardin marine has LS elbows and risers or if I can get decent heads for older style I’ll go that route for a dry mercruiser joint. It will have a heat exchanger too.

I haven’t been able to do much. It’s the rainy season here.

I was able to make the teak grates to raise the cockpit. I added non skid to the vertical runners on the grating system.

https://i.postimg.cc/qNd1rd6L/7D65D6...1724EA9C25.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/VdtK2Nvv/08FB76...3BDFDDE9B9.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/zyS0XPn1/0EE390...1CDAE9B9DB.jpg

Time for some updates. I’m waiting on engine parts so I’m doing what I can.

Here’s the windshields on. I need to get some gaskets for the windshields. That will leave a mark financially.

https://i.postimg.cc/yJHhf0nx/F01B61...CE7129B94F.jpg

Here’s the cabin bulkheads. It’s 3/4” teak plywood. I made molding etc out of teak wood. For endgrains etc. I’ll post that when I can.

https://i.postimg.cc/D84qnxMm/CEA619...DBC70-F966.jpg

I also made the door cabinet. I cut out the main compartment. Then used very small drill bits to cut a slot for jig saw and then rounded the corners down. The grain matches. I really like that.

https://i.postimg.cc/Czwz6mpW/022324...22F2D95041.jpg

Nice work!

Looking sweet!

Nice work..I remember those little doors...sorry I could not be more help on the gaskets...I think they are the same for every model seacraft...they have them in stock and will cut by how much you order...measure away and order a little extra for screw ups..

strick

Mele Kalikimaka!

So been mostly hurry up and wait on parts here. So close to starting engine but missing just 1 or 2 pieces from engine electrical, fuel, cooling system to finish it. So back to woodworking as I wait. It’s been pouring rain here for days.

Here’s some teak treads I made to go on footrests at helm.
I also made teak moldings for bulkheads and cabin area trim. Lo and behold you can buy them. Seateak. But they aren’t cheap and shipping would be brutal to Hawaii.

https://i.postimg.cc/Mf1crNJG/2-FB28...BE1778-E27.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/JydByjQR/2791A5...0AEA529086.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/B8vKQmHh/9-C867...BA4-F582-A.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/K1GKJ0qZ/FC9A3C...1AA321694A.jpg

Man those look great

Ty bro. I hope they hold up well. We’ll see. It’s flagship by petit varnish (6 light coats?) over top of starbrite teak oil (2-3 coats). I used homax treadtex you can get at most big box stores. It’s pretty clear when coated.

Non skid on teak...I like it!

strick

Lol I know raw or even oiled teak may not need it. But varnished stuff is really slippery, but so pretty. I reserve the right to sand it off and go oiled. I just like this varnished look.

Making the side triangle windshields. The XO helping me. The router is off this is after the cut…

https://i.postimg.cc/py5SMPdp/6-CB8-...B44-D7-C61.jpg

Was just taking a second look at your beautiful work -look amazing!
I had issues with the plastic clips for my Taco outriggers that I take off the boat every time. The smooth Finnish would allow the plastic to slide on .the pipes when I wrapped the leads around it .figured where I needed to keep them and ruffed the anodizing up slightly then did your trick with the anti skid . clips stay in place and there easier to grab when wet

Nice work! I just picked one up in Florida.

Nice welcome to forum. Mines a 72 #37. The states all confused on my boat. It was made in 72. Probably sold in 73. State insists it’s a 73 (even though no hull ID from Seacraft), but then the state sent me registration papers stating it’s a 72 now.

Strick did one of the best rebuilds ever on one.

There’s a thread here somewhere by him. Pics are mostly gone now, I think?
Blue heron on here did one too Same story.

Here’s stricks when it went up for sale awhile back.

https://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/th...aft-25.662138/

I’m guessing you’re going to do a rebuild? You can always message me as you get going on it. I saved quite a few things but some things had to be made one off. What number is your boat. We’re a family on here.

I have seen pictures of Stricks for a few years now. I wish the photos did not get lost on those builds. Such a shame. The hull I picked up is a complete project and I plan on taking on a rebuild. Ill start a rebuild thread soon. Thanks for the offer to help.

I’m using post images now

Tiny pic and photo bucket started killing old photos off but were the originals back when.

I’ve got lots of photos I haven’t posted. Hit me up and I can at least show you what I’ve found. Hopefully it helps. One of my goals with this thread was to make a long time source for Seafari 25 rebuilds.

Welcome Glaucus485,

Its an amazing boat. You will love it!


What's the story on the boat? Pics?

Connor- aka cdavisb had a Seafari 25 too and was very helpful to me with pics and stuff.

You should be able to find what you’re looking for here. Just go for it.

https://i.postimg.cc/1nWV49jN/007BB0...69E17D6EB6.jpg

Here’s the port light with 1/4” smoked plexiglass in it. I used double sided tape and a flush trim bit to duplicate it. About 3’x6’ piece if memory serves.
siliconed in place and held down with clamps.
Tp-139 was installed. The corners are tricky. And my original ones had silicone in the corners.

Got 20’ of tp-139 @ $7/ft. from these guys. Call and ask for American marine.

https://pompanettellc.com/
603-826-5791
You need the inv number to duplicate orders. Pm me if anyone needs it. It only cost me $30 shipping and shipped faster than quoted.

and here is the plan for the gauge cluster

i have a piece of curly teak picked out and ran it through the flush trim router to make a duplicate of the original (or a least a copy of a copy now).

https://i.postimg.cc/7J8xDpKv/gauge-cluster2.jpg

Any suggestions, please let me know. I intend to put a seacraft emblem at the top over the large (speedo and Tach gauge in middle like factory). I'll probably have MPO make it for me. I'm not positive if these are spaced quite right yet. only thing i can do is print and make some templates on scrap and see how it looks.

I'll post more pics as I get this done hopefully this week schedule permitting.

2 large are speedo and tach
then 2 fuel, volt, tilt, temp, oil
small in bottom middle is check engine light

Bilge pump lights
 

Hey X
FWIW, I have two bilge pumps on my 20’ Seafari with small lights on dash when they are operating either manually or automatically
I like knowing visually when the pump is on.

interesting idea, Terry. i have a high-water bilge alarm. i see some value in what you are describing, though. Main concern will be matching all the stuff i already have on the gauge cluster. i have an on/off/on rocker switch setup with a float switch on the units. I had plan for bilge pumps when i was doing the outboard now it's a question of the biggest (Sterndrive) going in first. I'll put this through the think-a-lator.

here's a matching light. i bought a check engine one for that center hole. now how do i modify the cluster.... Must consult the CNO. Hope she hasn't seen what I spent on UPS and Transom Assembly. Hide Me!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

Bilge Pump Light
 

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2213

Hi X
The light you purchased is the same size as mine. This photo is before I added another light vertically above the other between the two large gauges. Another option might be mount it on the vertical bulkhead.

This photo is about two versions out of date, as you add or detract equipment and gauges it will change:)

Thanks terry. I’m still alive. CNO gave me scoldings but I’m rather unharmed after she saw my purchase… wait until she figures out the shipping charges and how much I spent at boat store and auto shop today!

That vertical piece there. Planning to put a cell phone charging rack and holder on that vertical surface. Bluetooth stereo and hands free screen view and safe place for people to put them.

I’m still playing with my layout. I cut out a template from mdf today in between stuff. I have quite a bit more space than your 20’ I have a slanted gauge cluster and a dash area.

Here’s how it was when I got it.

Teak will be backer for the gauges. And teak for the helm top and then down under the steering wheel. I’m having trouble getting the geometry right.

https://i.postimg.cc/tZ2KZfbc/5841C7...5EFBB3F925.jpg

I don’t like the way this came out so I’ll bust out my scroll saw and use this as a template and cut it out of teak…

https://i.postimg.cc/hXR5zsZP/32A351...24C400CD80.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/mc40jVs9/87528E...894E6600B3.jpg

Do you have a way to monitor oil temp? Given the high power you are trying to achieve, an oil temp gauge might head off some expensive repairs

Howzit, Connor! I hear you. I initially decided to hold off b/c I have the oil on it’s own heat exchanger. And they don’t have an oil temp gauge in my set. Could I repurpose a water or head temp one? Probably.

I bought a new mercury 63832a1 to go on just the oil. It just came in yesterday. Still waiting on the one for power steering.

My goal was to get this running and then fine tune. I’m more on the side of oil pressure and coolant temp gauges as vital. I read somewhere on the LS you’ll stretch your head bolts and mess up your gaskets on an engine overheat before the oil breaks down… don’t ask me where now…

But with your suggestion I could put one on there and add an Hobbs meter and that would take me back to factory gauge setup with 4 on each side…so I’ll likely do that. With the oil filter relocation kit and cooler kit it should be a simple thing to do.

So here’s a mock-up on mdf. I’ll cut it out in template, break in engine and order the other gauges and install in boat eventually.

https://i.postimg.cc/Ffj9dQhp/8A4DD2...5410D849F1.jpg

So here’s a mock-up of the gauge cluster on mdf. Think we’re getting closer here.

https://i.postimg.cc/qzcDsx1x/2949-E...917-D6-BD1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/FY9WDkq5/39-FD1...4733-F5-B6.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/TpvH54JP/94-AA7...7926-FC559.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/jC7F5bN9/A9-A57...-B95-B85-A.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/N2c7FWvq/8FE5FA...C326533EF0.jpg


I’ve got a nice one made out of curly teak already but I’m not cutting out the gauge holes yet.

Next I’ll have to redo the teak dash, cut out switch holes, and wrap it down around the steering wheel.

I would suggest you consider including a manifold vacuum gage in your instrumentation! (Ask Connor about his experience.) It will give you a good indication of both load on your engine as well as its relative health, and you’ll find that its very sensitive. Reason is that if you want decent life on your exhaust valves, you need to understand that max continuous power = 5 inches Hg vacuum. If your engine is strong enough to cruise at 7” or higher, which it probably is, that’s even better.

A little background info . . . I was an engineer with Pratt & Whitney (maker of the old piston aircraft engines during WWII, before they got into the jet engine business.) for about 35 years before retirement. The modern piston aircraft engines like Continental & Lycoming, which are premium engines with expensive features like sodium filled exhaust valves, positive rotators and Stellite valve seats, are designed to cruise at about 75% power, the max continuous power rating. If you run through the thermodynamic calculations, 75% power works out to about 5” manifold vacuum. Most marine engines do not have those premium features, so many of the engineers I worked with that ran inboards all installed vacuum gages and observed a limit of 5” or higher for cruise rpm, and they expected an engine to run for ~2000 hrs or so before a valve job was required.

Thanks for the idea bushwhacker. I’m into planes once upon a time was going to be a pilot. Then got glasses…I ended up in secure logistics for over a decade.

I’m familiar with Lycoming and Pratt and Whitney. I suppose I could rig a vac gauge instead of the Hobbs meter. Wonder if the Terminator x has that in the handheld. There is the KPa. Doesn’t seem like the map KPa conversion to InHG is equivalent to your specs. A gauge may be only option. I’ve never heard of it on I/O but we use them plenty to diagnose engine health.

Got to research this more. Along with my heat exchanger issue. That has me frustrated.