Just make sure that you cover every place the Arjay can come out from. It sucks to find a small screw hole or something else as your pouring.

Ditto.

Does anyone have a 20" motor on a bracket? will this even work?

have been working on the boat past 2 weekends. got the transom poured with arjay and have started re-coring the cap with 1/2" NidaCore. trying to upload pics but my photobucket wont let me share 3rd party. anyone have a good service for sharing pics

Looking good. Just like my transom

Has anyone added bow seats/storage to a 20 MA? Raise up the forward deck making a deeper fishbox/cooler. Something like this

Since it has been too cold or rainy to work on my cap I have been puttering around with a mold for my baitwell. It will be a drop in under the console seat. Here is a pic of the mold. Here are my thoughts on a layup. Gelcoat then 3/4 oz mat then "tape" all the seams with 1708 4" wide then a 2-3 layers of 1708. Built up to 3/16" thick. I will then tab some gussetss inside the console to support the walls and bottom. Tabbing it around the lip of the original console seat.

I will post some pictures later but I have finished the cap and reinstalled it., and cut out the floor. Floor was only connected to the boat at the splashwell and front locker. All potter putty had let loose on the stringers.my question is what to use for the new floor? I was thinking 3/4 marine ply and epoxy with 1708 1 layer on bottom 2 on top. Thoughts?

Go with nida core it never rots weighs less and you never have to do it again. Just put something stronger where the console and other things are nailed down

Foam outside stringers was a nice mix of wet and dry. Found this one crack in the starboard stinger where the rigging channel meets up by the fuel coffin. Otherwise demo is coming along quick and painless

Not so quick question. What is the best way of determining the new deck level along the sides of the boat? Port stringer is 3/8" to 1/2" lower in places than starboard. Boat is level on trailer. I cannot simply measure up from the chine since the glass on the hull differs in height by 3/8" a long the way and differs by 1/2 from port and starboard? Any tips? I have a straight 2x4 ripped to my finished deck height should I just level that up across stringers and make a mark on gunnel? I need an accurate line along gunnel to set my cleats for the edge of the deck. I am going to reuse the original fishbox/casting deck which was only held in by the drain fitting.

I used a lazer level to make my marks.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1524244442

I'm thinking more and more the orientation problem with the pics is due to which way you rotate the phone camera when taking the pic. Some are right and some are not.
The line doesn't look straight due to the angle the photo was taken. It was dead on when I cut the deck coring.

I lost my notes and need a measurement. From the rear bulkhead on either side of motor well to stern edge of console. 78 master angler 20.

Never mind it's even with the back edge of the bow rail recess.

thanks Vezo. i am at a point now where i have my new sole pieces cut and ready to go down.

during demo i removed the rotted wood blocks around the straight down scuppers. i want to redo them with the cross tube Moesly method but i am unsure if i really want a 90 degree thru hull on the bottom of the boat on both sides.

should i just re create the potter style blocks and run a long brass tube through it flared on both ends like a long transom drain? like mcgillicuddy did?

the ones i pulled out during demo were like really long 2 piece splashwell drains

Just wrote all of this, hit proofread, preview post, and was freaking logged out!!!

Try again.

My ‘79 MA purchased in ‘96, required a new transom and repower in ‘99. CSC was not founded until 2002, so I rebuilt mine to 20”. Bad idea.

Fortunately I found a competent glass guy to use marine plywood and rebuild from inside. He’s dead now. Unfortunately, neither of us understood Mr. Mosely’s theory of cross over floor drains, so we scrapped it, allowing vertical drains to flush into the bilge. Bad idea number 2.

I have replaced brass drain tubes in early Boston Whaler Sports, and the process, with the tool, measuring, heating and annealing is not fun.

If I were you I’d go back to original design because it simply works. On my Seafari, the vertical floor drains go through hull, with wedges forward, causing a Venturi effect while underway. Plugs in while fishing (weight in stern), pulled on plane and when at rest at the dock. Must be the additional weight of the cap that allows this versus a CC. A very nice feature. Hope this helps.

Disclaimer: I am a Disabled firefighter. I am not an aero/naughtical engineer, nor understand advanced physics. However, I do read CSC daily, whether logged in or out!?!

Michael.

I did not DARE preview all of that again. Sorry for the disrespect Mr. Moesly. Auto correct from my contacts of a friend who spells it differently.

I added some progress pics to my album on here. Easier to load to album than from 3rd party host. Was wondering if I should add any type of knee to the transom/stringer joint? Or just tab it in to the inner skin transom layup?planned Inner skin layers would be:
original skin,
1 layer 1708 entire transom
tab 2 layers 1708 stringers to transom
2 layers 1708 entire transom
Tab another layer stringer to transom
Last layer 1708 inside stringers to tie in splashwell

I apologize Leland, I’m not knowledgeable enough to answer that. My MA is virtually stock, and my replacement ‘99 transom at 20” is nothing to be proud of. I cannot offer you advice on your transom layup nor addition of “knees”. In race configuration, the knees were added weight. In recreational applications, I would assume strength. But I have learned my next transom rebuild will be 25-27”.

Vezo, Part II

Thanks vezo I guess you are the only one that will communicate with me on here. Disco era master angler owners have to stick together.

It's kinda like an open air bar - folks drift in and out - sometimes they lob comments and sometimes they just watch to see who is gonna say something.
You will get more comments by posting photos in the part of the thread you are talking about instead of separate albums since it is easier for some (like me) to connect the words with the pics.
What resin are you planning on? If its VE 1708 is perfect but if it is epoxy the CSM is not adding much but 'protection' and costing in weight and resin. I didn't really figure that out til I used a lot of epoxy on 1808 and 1708 on my transom.
You might want to run some numbers and figure out how much all that weighs relative to what you tore out.
As far as drains go it really depends on how light you build it and what you hang on it. The original design worked pretty well if it didn't have a lot of extra weight. I am using that on my 23 but going to 1-1/4" tubes.
Vezo is right - build your transom 1-2" taller than your motor and 26 is a good minimum. Knees are useful if there are high loads for some reason - not sure if you have that situation.
Since I don't have a MA I'll just hang out for another happy hour and wait for a few more boat porn pics. :D

Problem with 3rd party is when third party host goes belly up, All good info is lost forever!
When they are here, they are here for as long as this site is.
Use the Yellow Picture icon up top and paste Image address in it to show up here.


http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2985

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2984

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2983

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2982

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2980

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2979

Leland, not to derail your thread but, Old Goat, would you happen to know where there’s an old Pontiac Firebird? 1970-73? Thanks.

Vezo.

Like I always say, "It's not what I know, it's who I know."

Ask the Firebird guys on this forum;
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/index.php

Looks good. I second the VE and 1708 comment. VE is great to work with. Stronger than poly, better protection against water intrusion, doesn’t need to be top layer or have wax added to get it to cure. Also cheaper than epoxy.

I also have issues with the lack of responses on my build. I was thinking that documenting it was a wast of my time.

It goes in spurts. I'm glad I documented mine and glad you and so many others have as well. This site is one of my happy places. Don't stop the pictures, please!

I am getting ready to tie the splashwell back into the transom and hull sides. I am thinking 2 layers of 12 oz biax tabbing on top side and 3 below . Gonna be a pain laying on my back in the bilge.

More people enjoy following than you realize. Seems as time has past members don't comment as much as they used to in the past. I wouldn't say it was a waist of time as if you ever sell the hull the documenting on here will be priceless for selling the hull for a good fair price. I think a lot on here has been documented over the years and most answers to questions can be searched and found but it would be nice to see more activity on the board.

Got the casting deck glassed and rough faired, anchor locker faired and bilgekoted, bulkhead tabbed and door test fitted.

Making headway Leland!!! Remember buy sandpaper in bulk!! :)

Looking good...Thanks for posting.

strick

78 MA transom
 

Anyone have an unmolested MA with a 20" transom. I cannot find my measurements for the original mounting heig]ht for outboard bolts. I need the distance between the arrows.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3083

Yes. But I can't see your picture very well. What do you need?

Top of transom measured straight down to the upper motor mounting bolts?

Leland, Google "engine mounting template". 2" seems to be the number.

I found this here:



http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=819368


Does this help?

Thanks guys.