Center drain line and first stringer are glassed. Hoping to glass the second stringer this week. I also ordered a 55 gal fuel tanks last night. I'm hoping to have the deck on by the end of the month, we'll see.

coronavirus ready

Where'd ya get that nifty mask? I wear glasses, too and can't seem to find one that will accommodate my big melon with glasses!

my eyes are not so good. I guess the part that covers you eyes is made into the suit?

My eyes really suck. I thought I saw a face shield attached.

There are full face respirators available that work great unless they fog inside.

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/s...iABEgIHvfD_BwE

I bought one similar, but, it put too much pressure on my frames after the fight to get them inside the mask. Just not eyeglass friendly.

Quick Update
 

Stringers glassed, bulkheads glassed and tabbed, fuel tank delivered however I still need to add tabs. Hopefully I'll get a chance to level the bulkheads this week and add the ledgers along the hull sides, then start the template for the deck.

Is it best to locate the fuel tank vent as far aft as possible? Or is it better to keep the hose length as short as possible? My two options are to run it 90 degrees from the vent on the tank or run it back to the bilge area and out the side.

I would keep it 90 degrees from the tank fitting, (and angled to vent rearward.) Keeps the fitting higher out of the water, less chance for water intrusion.

I agree with Boo. Also consider a access watertight pie plate that will allow you access to the backside of the vent should you need to replace it in the future. A extra 10ga Pull Wire from the access plate back to the the fuel tank elbows (like the Pink grounding wire from the fuel fill) should be in your thoughts. You never know !

It is really important to make sure there are no low spots in the hose; it has to go up from the tank fitting or gasoline will accumulate in the low area just like a P trap and it won't be much of a vent anymore...

I've been slowly making some progress. The main deck is cut and fitted. and the fuel conduits are drilled and fitted. I've realized I messed up my main conduit location so i'm going to dig out some foam and move it back a 2'-ish. I also decided to lower the cockpit floor more than originally planned. I'm hoping to get the front stringers and deck cut this week.

Try the acrylic jigsaw blades too. "clean for plexiglass", they have red paint on em, Bosch too. They last a long time cutting glass and cut real cleanly...

I'll pick some up. I forgot to say I've used the 30 grit saw blades on the coosa and have used the same one through the whole project including the transom, and it's still cutting great.

How many cf's of foam does everyone feel is necessary for a 20' to be positively buoyant? I figure I have ~16 cf(1,024 lbs) in the stringer, if I can get to ~20 cf(1,280 lbs) is that enough? I realize the more the merrier but i'd like as much storage a possible.

Looking good, can't wait to see how this comes out! Will be very functional.

My neighbor used to have a Boston Whaler Menemsha which was a rare model made for camping and the like on their 16ft hull.

Keep the photos coming!

Any fuel vent recommendations? I was looking at getting the Attwood–Flush-Mount 316 Stainless Fuel Vents.

Some progress photos. I need to order more epoxy before I'll be able to glass the decks.

I got the rest of the bulkheads cut and epoxied in last week. Over the weekend I started figuring out hatches and cutting them out. It sure is nice have a floor to stand on. I should be getting a resupply of epoxy this week which will hopefully last through the rest of the rebuild.

Nice work on those bulk heads..do you order your supplies on line or get them from a distributer?

strick

I buy the epoxy and fillers from Raka(best price and I really like the low viscosity), the glass and coring from Revchem, and radom stuff from amazon. Revchem is geared towards commercial clients, however they have always been happy to sell to me. The last quote I got for 1708 was $2.21 per lb. which is ~$3.45 a yard!

I think Revchem has a distribution center up near you Strick. Check them out. If you find someplace with better pricing please let me know.

4807 South Airport Way #D • Stockton, CA 95206

nice progress pics. how long is your v-berth area going to be? from anchor locker bulkhead to the bulkhead where to step up is going to be?

It's 5' to the edge of the raised floor then 2' of cockpit floor. I'm going to make a ledge around the cockpit and have insert boards to make the sleeping area 7'.

Looking good!

I have an account with Svendsens in Alameda and go there for the little things...buy bulk from composites one in Sac...hard to say if I’m getting good deals or not as I just pay like a dummy lol

Strick

Photo update. I'm ready to epoxy the front deck down, hopefully this week or weekend. Still waiting to get my fuel tank back from the welders.

That is really nice work. Great to watch the evolution. Going to be truly one of a kind. What did you use for finish in your lockers?

Thanks. I used Total Boat bilge paint, it is working but is taking much longer than advertised to harden up. Since applying I've read a few threads of people complaining the same thing. Next time I'll try something else.

Quick update.
Front deck is glassed and fuel tank is in. I'm hoping to get the underside of the main deck glassed this weekend and paint the remaining lockers. I made a gutter mold and did a small tested(my first time using a mold). Since making the mold I saw a gutter design I like more so I'm scraping the current one and make a new one(out of mdf this time).

Cool stuff...are making some gutters or hatches with that router?

strick

I'm going to make both. I redid the gutter this weekend, here is V2. The corners now have different radius's and a flat spot was added for a center drain.

The first layer of paint is on the three deck lockers, and the underside of the main deck is glassed.

Gutters are in and all the below deck wiring and fuel lines are attached. Hopefully I'll have the deck permanently in this week or weekend. If I get the chance I'm going to glass the cooler compartment this week too.

Does anyone have a good way to remove the mold release wax from gutters? I've heard lacquer thinner works but it wasn't from a reliable source.

They make a dedicated wax/grease remover but lacquer thinner prolly work just fine. Good sanding and water bead test after to make sure...

warm water soap and scrub then sand...as your gonna prime those anyways...I like using duratec as the first step prior to lay up as it's much easier to get the wax off that then from inside the fiberglass pores...nice hatches your moving right along

strick

Thanks. Looks like the deck will be permanently attached Sunday.