Had to grind all the gelcoat off and put in a notch where the 8 inch tab in was made.. When i was done i grinded down so it was flush with the rest of the boat. Used a long straight edge to make sure it was true to the rest of the hull.

How many layerd tab? Roven? roven/cloth or? I was wondering what would contour around the strake steps or just split it at the strake step up?

Cut it all off, extend it 3 ft, and then it will be a perfect boat. :D
Wish I had done it to mine.

Ha ha not that ambitious to reinvent the wheel. Although i wish they made and i had a 23 Seafari. This hull would be to narrow at 23' IMO. I'll be looking for a project 25 Seafari though. The California and Keys ones were way to far away. Gonna get this 20 on the water first, god willing. :) Blue and Hermit I agree dont like just the matt like that either. Thanks

So I guess the one for sale in Honolulu is out of the question?

I split it at the strake step, I used 1708 biaxle, combo of mat and cloth type roven, 3 layers. The 1708 is very stiff and very hard to use even when really soaked with resin. But extremely strong.

transom pic
 

Here's were i pulled some samples off the skin today to find that it was only matt.

I agree, that's not the original transom, it's a lousy repair job! Look at the first picture and you'll see that the core didn't even follow the contour of the bottom. If those big gaps were filled with water, it's easy to see how a freeze would have busted through that weak mat! Here's the original laminate schedule thats described on page 2 of the 1969 Boating magazine test of the 20' Seafari:

1. 2 layers of 1 oz. mat against the gel coat (to prevent print through of the roving in gel coat.)
2. one layer of 18 oz. roving.
3. 4 more alternating layers of 1 oz. mat and 18 oz. roving, for a total of 7 layers of glass, and .221" total thickness.
4. Additional lay-ups in highly stressed areas bring thickness up to about 0.345".
5. Bottom is stiffened by 4 pre-molded fiberglass inverted U-section stringers located in way of bottom jogs. Stringers backed by 4 alternate layers of 1 oz. mat and 18 oz. roving and taped in place with similar layup.

If you look at the sketch on the last page of that Boating Magazine article in the Literature section, it clearly shows how the stringers were taped in with 4 additional alternating layers of mat and roving. The thickness distribution in the bottom design is a brilliant use of material from a stiffness perspective . . . the hull is naturally very stiff at the vertical steps, but having a stiff section with a thin section on either side of it would be asking for trouble. So Moesly straddled that vertical step with a VERY tall (and stiff) stringer, so what you have is a stiff section supported by a much stiffer section on either side of it! Then in between the stringers, there a couple more 0.345" thick "mini-stringers" created by the overlap of the 4 extra layers of material where the big stringers are taped in to the hull. The very stiff area of the stringers is then surrounded by material that's over 50% thicker than the nominal hull thickness.

The thinking that went into this design is typical of that seen in the aerospace business, where everything must be very strong but extremely light . . . wait a minute, that's how race boats are built too!

Here is something to think about...just materials etc. epoxy glass and fairing I have spent way over 5k. Plus a lot of time...I see this boat as being in the same category so make sure it is the one you want or bail now...Just say'n

Whats not to want. It's a Moesly Seacraft haha Yeah i hear ya. Anthing done to it will increase the vaue anyway. I'm a sucker for saving classics anyway. I'm going to clean it up to make it usable. Transome, paint, repower, tlc. The decks and stringers are good so it's not so bad. Your boats worth sinking 10k into, those 21s rule! Wanna trade? :D