Look good frizz never seen a dusky drive look so good

Photo Bucket has my account pictures froze due to the 10k band with rule and hopefully the pictures will be back soon. But here is some progress till then.....

I got the section I built to fill in the old i/o hole for the floor installed. I used thickened resin on top of the stringers and sat it in place. Once that set up I came back and sanded off the sides of the new section and around the old deck at a 45 degree angle both ways to make a pocket 2" wide and 1" deep in the center to lay new glass in. It took about 12 layers or so to build it up past the deck height by starting with thin strips and getting a little wider each time. Once that was done I sanded it back flush and then hit it with some resin and 407 west additive I had laying around to smooth it out then shot it with white epoxy primer. I will go back and add the deck stripes during final paint process to match the rest of the deck.


The rear top cap has been sanded, faired, and primed with epoxy primer and now is being installed back on the boat.

Made a bit of progress this weekend. It rained every day last week so it has been slow going. I dont like kicking resin when it is so humid. Anyway, I managed to get the rear cap back on the boat and started glassing it back together. I ground a one inch taper on each piece and then used 2" strips of cloth the join it back together. I also glassed the rear of the seem on the back side of the liner as well (what a pain). Once the glass was cured I sanded it down and trued it up with the line sander then faired it out with some fairing compound. Slicked it down and feathered it in so you could not feel any of the seem. Once I got it close I primed it with the interlux white prime coat. I will do a final fair over the whole boat once the glass work is done before the final prime coat and paint.

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Here is the way I filled in the hole in the floor where the old I/o was located. This is the before and the after:
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First off I took my fiber prep panel and waxed it well then primed it with a roller. Then I laid down several layers of matt. You can see it as it is still wet in the pic and then cured white in the next. Once that cured I cut wood blocks to fit the panel:
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Then I mixed a thickend resin to glue the blocks down with. Note- I used the red hardener so I could see that the cabosil and resin had a even mixture of hardener in it. Once they were down, while still wet I mixed some resin even thicker to go between the blocks. Then once the blocks were filled I placed several layers of mat over it and got out any air. The vinyl ester with the red hardener turns almost a light pink.:
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Once the core was dry I added my final layers of glass, a combination of 1708 and matt. Around the edges I added several layers of glass to make the edges one inch thick so I would have some meat to cut a vee in when I glass it in the boat. Here is the hole that it will be filled by this blank. It will be epoxied in place onto the stringers and then a vee ground on the edges and glassed to the original deck:
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Friz,

Nice work - should be a sharp looking rig! Ever thought about putting hinges on that board and making a hatch out of it where the old engine box was? Seems like that might make a handy storage space under the deck?

Quote"Nice work - should be a sharp looking rig! Ever thought about putting hinges on that board and making a hatch out of it where the old engine box was? Seems like that might make a handy storage space under the deck?"

It is fully glassed in now at this point but I made it beefy so that I can cut an access hole in the floor panel and it will be plenty strong even with a hatch cut into it. I more than likely will make a hatch for it, but not sure yet. I have a nice new abs plastic o-ring sealed factory made add on hatch that came with the master angler that was never used but think I rather make a custom fiberglass one.

Here are a few pic's of the rear liner/cap coming back together:
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Here is a few Pics of the fuel cover getting a new coring:

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I know pictures can be deceiving but how wide is the area you ground down in the photos? It appears only an inch or two at most? If so you may run the risk of it cracking down the road due to insufficient glass holding the two parts together. Better to go 4-6 inches...just saying :)

strick

What he said^