The last of the V8 interceptors.

The geometry of the bracket will be dictated by the geometry of your boat, so it may not be the same as for a Seacraft. For the fore and aft angles, measure the angle between your keel and transom. For the deadrise, you will also want to match your hull.

You can use plywood and glass construction if you like, but you really should use epoxy resin if you go that route. If you use strick's one-off mould method, you can use less expensive polyester resin, you'll have much less fairing to make it look professionally done, and it will be lighter and stronger. The method is tried and true, whereas the plywood/glass approach is a reinvention of the wheel unless you have a professionally designed solution.

Dave

dave it was not the transom angles i was onabout but the the angle from front to to back off the bracket i take onboard what you say about the geomery of boats not being the same but like i sead i reply to your last post if you look a the link in the reply to me by mr mcgillcardy you will sea there is not a lot off deferance in the hunt18 and the seacraft infact the seacraft 18 might be the hunt 18 sister

Dave, I think the 1"/foot of setback is the often used rule of thumb for height of the motors anti ventilation plate above the keel. In my experience, it needs to be more than that. The engine makers say that the top of AV plate needs to be above the water when you're up on plane with motor trimmed out as far as you normally run. My bracket has a 2.5' setback, so that rule of thumb says my AV plate should be 2.5" above keel. However as you can see in attached pic, it's 3.25" above the metal rail extending aft from keel. I have since raised it to 4.25" and AV plate is STILL underwater, so it needs to come up about another inch! Therefore in my own experience that trade factor would seem to be about 5.25"/2.5' or roughly 2" per foot of setback!

thanks bushwacker that makes it mutch clearer dave2400