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I think it all depends on how far and often you tow. My average towing round trip is about 120 miles. I had infrequent issues with bearings, tires, and rotten spring hardware on a 10 year old trailer and after just a couple of roadside issues I tore it all out and replaced them with torsion axles and oversized/rated tires. Best money I have ever spent. When you consider how valuable a trouble free day off on your boat is, the cost to keep things trouble free far exceeds the value of gambling with aging parts.
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I got my new bearings and races today. Had the races pressed into the hub after I cleaned it up.
next step is to thoroughly grease the bearings up with the grease No Bones suggested. Then tap in the inner seal. And on to the tricky part...lightly debur and gently sand the spindle where the outer bearing rides. http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps27de7466.jpg Once everything is smooth and outer bearing glides nicely, I will put the hub on and tighten the bearings and back off one castle nut cavity. Pump the hub up full of grease using the zerk grease fitting on the axle. Then close it up with the dust cover, mount the tire/rim on the hub and give it a try... |
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Well since last week my boat and trailer have been residing at a friend of mine's house that is very close to the lake where I use my boat. His house was a "safe harbor" where I could get my boat/trailer to when I blew out the bearing.
He only lives about 2 miles from the lake. And my house is about 25 miles from the lake. That is why I generally keep my boat in High & Dry storage at the lake for convenience sake. Unfortunately, this year some other things ate up my fun $$ and I elected to keep my boat/trailer at a storage yard close to my house for cheap rent. So today I got off work early to take advantage of the daylight and 70 degree weather to "fix" my axle/bearing problem. Everything went extra smooth thanks to all the good advice of my CSC friends!! Although watching quite a few YouTube videos on the subject was very helpful too. The below pic shows the axle almost completely reassembled right before I put the outer piece of the disc brake caliper back on. Can anybody see/guess if anything looks missing or problems? Hint: look close. http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...psdac9c83d.jpg Well after totally closing everything up and pumping the hub full "but not too full" - (Thanks FF) of the correct grease (thanks No Bones), I started my 20 mile trek home. http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...psadd0bcf9.jpg On the ride, I kept humming a song from Gordon Lightfoot "The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald" Specifically a line in the lyrics " The searchers all say they'd made White Fish Bay if they'd put 15 more miles behind her..." as I was clicking off mile after mile without problem on my way home with the boat and trailer behind me. I stopped a couple of times on the way home to check the temp and stability of the hubs, everytime they were cool and firm. Well I'm proud to say my mechanical skills are worth at least 25 problem-less miles and got home safe and sound. Hopefully many more miles to come!! http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...psd00ea22b.jpg THANKS AGAIN GUYS FOR ALL THE HELPFUL IDEAS!! CSC IS A GREAT COMMUNITY!!! * |
Glad things went well but the rear spring hanger looks bent.
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The line going in to the caliper looks like its hitting the frame and could be turned away, and the hanger is slightly bent. Congrats on a good repair! |
The cotter pin is missing
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I tow 1000 plus miles a year with my boat and a fifth wheel trailer, not at the same time. I bought a point and shoot thermometer from Harbor Freight and take the temp of hubs whenever I stop. It is quick and gives me piece of mind. Big variations in temp would be a warning.
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I forgot to say I also carry a new hub with bearings and seals pre greased just in case things go south. It is insurance you hope you never use.
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