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Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Chris - getting a couple local quotes as well as about six around the country.. Shipping is expensive.. Would love to get it locally - So far RDS aluminum in FL has the best price.
Strick - My boat has a well (storage locker) just in front of the console with a large hatch. By the time I get this 8ft tank in I will not have room for a water tank. I thought I might but I went and measured it at lunch today. Especially trying to get the tank as far forward as possible. There was a fuel tank in this front storage compartment when I bought the boat but I removed it and I am using that space life jackets etc... I guess our boats are layed out differently?? |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
You could try Parker Marine in Diberville, or go to James Caldwell Ph# (228)396-1903 some of the best aluminum welding I've ever seen. His work stands alone. Tell him the guys from ClassicMako sent ya. ;) He mainly does T-tops and leaning posts but if you talk to him he could tell you further. Best part about local is no shipping. Let me know if that helps..
Chris.. :cool: |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
FJ,
What dimension (HxWxL) tank(s) do you need, and/or will fit your project? :) |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Chris - Thanks for the contacts -
I am good friends with Ken Parker he has like (3) FinCat 35's he is building right now and he does not do his own fuel tanks - he orders them. Ken built my current T-top about 9 years ago and just put a new Sunbrella top on it after the storm. He and Troy are so busy working on getting the FinCats made that he is not even taking orders for T-tops that I know of. As a mater of fact I talked to him about making my new leaning post but again he is so busy that I did not even ask how long it would take.. I got a good price from Steve B.'s guy (Jim Allen) in Vancleve I am going to meet with him tomorrow about the build. I would really rather source it locally than order it and have to pay shipping.... ob1jeeper - I am going to go with a 96Lx12Hx28W about 135 gallon. I have about 6 quotes now ... after all is said and done I will post the companies and prices if anyone is interested. Thanks, Jack |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Fish Jack-
I Just drilled a couple holes low on the boxes like in the link I posted and water came trickling out. There is plywood in there and mine were completly rotton. As far as boat configuration my boat has the step down compartment in the consel that you gain access to via the front door on the consel. There used to be a factory toilet in there with thru hulls out the bottom of the boat. When I bought my boat someone had removed the toilet and did a poor job of glassing over those old thru holes. I fixed all that and put a porta potti in the consel. Just forward of the consel is a large storage hatch. I think by looking at your pics that maybe your gas tank sat a little farther forward then mine? I did not have that built in transducer like you did. strick |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Strick -
I will drill some "test" holes tomorrow - I have a optical scope that I use to look into areas like that and will see what I can see. It really works good. That "built in transducer" is now GONE.. I'm not sure if it was factory?? I figure it was probably factory because it was installed just under the original tank. It had one layer of heavy woven over it with a wedge made from a 2x4 on either side of the center stringer. It was installed from the bottom of the boat encapsulated in 5200 (at least that is what it smelled like) and THEN glassed over with the woven roven. The 5200 or whatever was still green in the middle - it evidently was never was exposed to air and never cured. Anyway - I am going to try and find another location for my fresh water tank.. I am planning on installing my new fuel tank all the way up to the back side of the front storage locker (the hatch just in front of the console) to get as much weight forward as possible. |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
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Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
ob1jeeper - due to the clearance of the 1 1/2 fill pipe 12 inches is about the max.. and I plan on installing some sort of strips (plastic of some sort) for air and drainage under the tank so that will just about make 12" the max.
Please don't tell me you have one that is 13"H for a "Great Price" :o |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
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Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Oh well 17" is out of the question - you would probably have me doing some re-engineering if it was 13.. :D
Thanks anyway.. I appreciate the thought. ;) |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
FishJack, The # that C E Carter gave you for James is no longer in service, try 228-861-3427
He just did my top, his welds almost look machined http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...r/IMG_0390.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...r/IMG_0391.jpg |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Thanks WhiskyRiver - I met with Jim Allen in Vancleave Tuesday (really nice guy) he is working on my new tank as we speak.
Great price and as mentioned above he will have it ready ASAP. He was working on another customers tank when I went to his shop and it was some really nice looking work. Thanks again Jack |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Hey Matt,
Thanks for updating the # for me. On your top are there steps to get to the crows nest or are you just limber. I couldn't see my fat A** crawling up there in some slop.. Jack, When you get your tank back please post some pics. I am always interested in seeing others work. Especialy quality for cheap.. Chris.. :cool: |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
I was going to add one more piece of pipe in the center, but once the curtians are on you wouldnt be able to step on it. It looks harder than it is.
BTW if you cant get up there you have just been elected to drive while I fish ;) |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
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Tap's Plastics. Be careful when putting the plastic strips in. You have limited space between the top of the fuel tank and bottom of the fuel hatch. I used 3/4 ply to core the fuel hatch and 3/4 ply for the fuel tank support base and when I put in the plastic stripes under the tank the fittings on the top of the tank were too close to the bottom of the hatch. I ended up scrubbing the plastic strip idea and tore them out. I ended up coating the tank with coal tar epoxy and I glued the tank down to the base with 5200. Not what I originally intended to do but the tank is secure and water can still get around it to drain into the bilge. Hopfully 5200 does not have carbon in it but then again the tank is coated with coal tar epoxy so that should protect it. I also keep my batteries in the CC like you and when I tore out those battery boxes I did not replace them. They are not part of the stringer system and do not need to be replaced. I just did not want any rotton wet wood left in the boat. Keep the pics coming :D strick |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Strick -
I opted to go with an 11.5 inch high tank vs. the stock 12 to add some extra room for the plastic strips fuel fills etc. I won't loose that much capacity for convience. BTW - I made this decision after reading one of your old post about having to remove your plastic strips. Live "read" and learn.. thanks I figured if I am having a new tank built to spec I would make room for some sort of support/drain etc. & make it eaiser to connect the fill and vent hoses under the console. Speaking of fuel tank coating - I just had my old transom bracket powder coated and I am debating on powder coating my new tank vs. epoxy coating vs. coal tar. I can get it powder coated for $3/sq ft. Pretty good price. BUT I am WAY over budget now on this "replace the wood in the transom project" I take it Tap's Plastic is an online source? I have looked at Home Depot and Lowe's cannot find anything suitable other than some extra thick blind material. Here are a few pics - New fuel tank support plywood ready to coat - http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/e989083c.jpg The old "stock??" transducer - (mentioned earlier in this thread) was almost under the tank...???? http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/caf23df0.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/a32106ac.jpg Removal of the old transducer - http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/be87647a.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/6d5b4ceb.jpg Powder coated transom bracket - D&D Marine - Originally installed about 7 years ago... http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/bc670491.jpg The filler originally used to bond the deck with the stringers on the port side had broken loose.. I used epoxy/filler to replace it... The starboard side has a hairline crack and I will probably replace it as well... The old stock filler easily popped out with a chisel??? :eek: Just goes to show the possible weakness of a polyester/polyester bond... http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/f1f72c5e.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/a9120f04.jpg FWIW - This is my 1st time using epoxy resin and it is GREAT stuff.. Working on these small projects has helped me learn the cure time / filler mixing proceedure etc. etc. before the transom goes in. Very easy to work with but the FAST hardner is truly FAST... My 1st batch with filler hardened b4 I got it out of the pot... :D |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Matt, Never said I couldn't get up there but I had the mental picture of a Walrus doing the Worm on the T-top. That didn't sound like the photo op I was looking for. :D
Jack, Sorry to hijack you thread. Everything is looking great. You are obviously busy in you time off. Keep the pics coming. Chris.. :cool: |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Decided - to save weight in the stearn I would use some high tech foam board -
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0487.jpg Just kidding but I wanted to try this R-max for a template and it cuts easy - is stiff and light. Worked pretty good. Rough cut the marine ply and bonded - using just about every clamp I had - and some water for weight. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0489.jpg |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Looking Good Jack. I see you used the milk jug cap's. :D
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Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Yep - Bobby they worked great... I opted for the foam insulation board instead of the luan for the rough cut pattern.
Seems to work pretty good. |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Looks great, I wouldn't mind easing over your way and checking out your progress some time. :cool:
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Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Steve - your more than welcome to stop by anytime...
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Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Fish Jack-
If I were to do it over again I would not use plastic strips but instead I'd glass some strips of say 1/4 ply lengthwise in place instead of the plastic. I used starboard strips and nothing will stick to starboard. I glassed them down but it was a pain because the epoxy wont stick so they were kinda just entoumbed within the epoxy and 1708. If you do go with pastic then I would just screw them down into place and then find a good way to secure the tank other then glueing it down because you wont even get 5200 to stick to the starboard. Just my 2 cents. Whats the trick with the milk jug caps? Allows you to pull out the screws easier or something? strick |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
"What’s the trick with the milk jug caps? Allows you to pull out the screws easier or something?"
Yes sir that is it - any epoxy that squeezed out thru the holes won’t stick to the plastic caps. Bobby taught me that trick. I can see how using the starboard would be a problem for the strips.. Not sure what I am going to do yet? Thanks. |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
I think I'd follow what Strick said, but just maybe use some solid stock Fir and cut it down to the sixe you need.
I'd also run it thru the tablesaw and have the side edge's cut at 45deg. That will let the glass conform real easy over them. You could glue them down with some epoxy/cabisol and stick a couple of drywall screw's in them tempairy and then pull them after about 4 hour's. Then just lay a few layer's of glass tape over them. |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Just a thought here, but how about using some teflon material like they use on the bottom of airboats. You could cut it into any size strips you want. I'm pretty sure this stuff is expensive but you might be able to round up some scrap material from someone. There are plenty of airboat builders and outfitters over here in south Louisiana.
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Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
The solid wood (fir etc.) strips are a good idea - I will probably go that route.
Will - I'm afraid that Teflon strips (like starboard) won't bond well. Good idea though. I'm pretty sure that the Teflon panels on airboats are screwed or riveted in place. |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Was just reading PeterB's thread about the G-10 sticks and saw that you can order the G-10 in strips..
G10/FR4 Garolite Rectangular Bar 1/8" Thick, 3" Width, 4' Length That might be another option??? Kinda pricy.. |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Any progress Jack?..
Chris.. :cool: |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Chris -
Just filling a few old holes in the bildge/stringers with epoxy and cleaning out the area where I am going to bond my new fuel tank deck. AND ... doing some much loved :( grinding... I am waiting on my fuel tank... (I should have the tank next week) When I get the tank in place and secure I will proceed with the rest of the transom project. Thanks for asking.. Jack |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
My new fuel tank should be ready in a couple of days ..
reading back on previous posts there are a variety of methods to coat the new tank - Coal Tar Epoxy POR-15 Paint Line-X Bedliner 2 Part Epoxy Paint My question is can I coat the tank with some of the RAKA epoxy that I have? I was going to clean the tank - rough it up with some 80 grit and roll on the 2 part epoxy. Is this a good or bad idea? The reason for wanting to use the epoxy is because I have it on hand ready to go. My other option is to have it powder coated with a mil spec powder coat but that will cost me about $3/sq ft AND it might take a while to have done. thanks Jack |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Another question maybe someone can answer -
How are most of you routing your hydraulic steering hoses thru the transom? Are you using the SeaStar bulkhead adapters OR Running the steering hoses thru the transom in the same hole with the rest of the engine cables? |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
If you have a motor that has the large rubber plug, that the rigging hose connect's to. Then it would be hard to run the hyd steering hose's thru and keep it watertite.
The bulkhead fitting's make for a musch cleaner setup. Here you see the bulkhead fitting's being used and 2 short [3ft] Teleflex hose's attached to the bulkhead fitting's and then to the steering ram. http://www.armstrongnautical.com/ima...s/BcktEngs.jpg |
Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
Thanks Bobby –
I thought I remember you using the bulkhead adapters on your boat – could not remember. I will go that route. Another question – I noticed you installed your bait tank drain really low in the transom (almost at the bottom of the hull). I am planning on installing a bait tank drain thru the transom – Is there an advantage to having it lower –closer to the bottom of the boat? |
Few More Pics and questions -
OK - slowly making progress -
I have shaped and test fitted my transom core - (how about that old belt sander - what a workout must weight about 12#) http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0490.jpg New fuel tank deck glassed in and ready for the tank - Boy it was fun glassing under the center console. Did not even need beer that day :D http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0492.jpg Finished a template for the new deck area and hatch - Trying to lay everything out and have it ready to go... http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0496.jpg Now a couple more questions about the SeaStar steering system - I am going to use the SeaStar bulkhead adapters - with my 3ft bracket I assume the 3ft hose kit will be too short (not allow the front mount cylinder to move side to side) and I will need to get the 4ft? Opinions on the "Pro Kit" vs. the "Standard Kit" on the SeaStar system? Is it worth the extra $$$ for the "Pro" kit? |
Re: Few More Pics and questions -
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On the hatch you choose for the deck. I sure wouldn't have choose that model. You want it watertite and the one to pick would be a Armstrong 10X20 recessed in. here's the deck on Ringleader's with the recess. that make's a Armstrong to be a non toe stubber. Now is the time to make the change. http://www.classicmako.com/projects/...es/tran157.jpg |
Re: Few More Pics and questions -
Wart - thanks for the advise on the hatch - I e-mailed armstrong for a price on their 10x20.
I guess armstrong direct is the only place to source their deckplates? Thanks again |
Re: Few More Pics and questions -
Yes.
EDIT: I may have a connection to get you one. It's brand new, never been installed. I will check. |
Re: Few More Pics and questions -
Bobby
If fishjack doesn't take the 10 x 20 Armstrong, I'm interested. PM me if it's available. Dink |
Re: Few More Pics and questions -
10-4 Let's see what happen's in another week. The hatch doesn't belong to me.
It belong's to Jimmy O'Leary aka Hammertime. He live's in Gulf Breeze, Fl. I will relay the message. |
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