Re: Here We Go Again
 

That one looks nice!!

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Maybe Don will chime in and give a little more imfo here.

I'm betting the frame is something he had laying around?

http://www.hermco.net/images/myseacraft/msc25.jpg

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Yes hogwart I found it here in my shop when I moved in! :D

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I'm sorry I meant Warthog! I apologise for a little dyslexia that shows up sometimes hogwart! ;)

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Doh! I meant Warthog. The hatch is a hatch mold and reciever that I made and cut down to work for the anchor locker hatch on my Seacraft. I used the full sized one for the bilge access hatch. They can be top mounted or flush mounted like I did. I didn't want to use the scroty cheap plastic Rabuds type on my boat so I spent about 40 hrs making my own molds and hatches. So much for getting smarter as you get older but I like the end result. :D

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Now that's some nice work. Well done..

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Custom take's time. :D The result's will show.

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I was thinking of doing the same thing to my 20 MA. Actually I like my Grady's desgn which incorporates a lip to hold the anchor upright hanging position when its stored position....I'd like to replicate such a design. Perhaps making a mold of the grady's locker may not be a bad idea.

I did nothing on my project this weekend...fished both Sat and Sunday. I needed to fish! Its november, the fishing is hot and the weather was good. Besides some time away from thge project is good for the soul.

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Looks great! You work looks fantastic!

I just have a question to ask about the sagging issue.
Did the boat sag evenly? I imagine it would have, if it were sitting level. And when it sagged, does it cause undue stress on the sides of the hull? Stress cracking or did you just notice it when you placed the cap back on.

I also agree with the other guys. I wouldn't recore it. You did a great job and I don't think much will be gained by doing so. You can bevel that glass, and lay glass in layers and then grind to perfection. It will be strong as new!

Looks great, I was going to go back with all orignal liners in my rebuild, but it just didn't work out well for diving and raising the deck to self bailing. Oh yeah, I didn't have the patience or skill! :D

Enjoying the pictures! Goog Luck, Jason

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Thanks Don for chiming in.

Gradysailfish- a fella named Wilson Ayala made a nice anchor locker like you described over on classic mako. He built a mold. Maybe you can do a search over there and find it.

Jaizzen- to answer your question it bowed out about 2 inches on each side right in the middle. Theres no stress or buckeling on the sides. And I did not notice it until I went to put the cap back on. Since put the floor in and balsa cored the sides it's very solid now.

I've showed those littel molds I made for the gunnel cap supports and I had a chance to make the parts from them. I put some modeling clay in the corners of the mold to seal up the joints so resin would not get into the joint, Next I wiped some part all wax all over the mold. No buffing here just wiped it on.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5468.JPG

Cut some pieces of matt and 1708

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5470.JPG

laying up the part

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5471.JPG

I'm impatient and theres not much sun light these days so I heated the mold/part with my propane blower

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5474.JPG
http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5475.JPG

after they cured I ground off all the rough edges

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5476.JPG
http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5477.JPG

and popped them out of the mold

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5478.JPG
http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5479.JPG
http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5480.JPG

They are not mean to be perfect. There will be some light sanding and fairing. Then priming and painting.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5481.JPG

checking how they fit

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5486.JPG
http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5487.JPG


strick

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Hey Strick-

Nice job. Looking forward to seeing more pictures...

You probably already now this....but my buddy who owns the boat restoration shop taught me a little trick that saves a lot of grinding when laying up parts in a mold. Instead of grinding excess when the part is fully cured, you can take a very sharp blade...and cut most of it off when it is in the green stage. The key is timing.....too early, and it will bunch up and unravel and screw up the laminate.....too late and it is too hard to cut. Anyway, just thought I would pass it along...

Ed

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Thanks Ed, I'll do that once in a while but most of the time my timing is off and I'm either too early or too late. I usually have my hands in a few places at once so I get distracted. :D

strick

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I see the 23ftr is now sitting outside ,as the project boat has taken over it's stall in the boat shed. HeHe

I got a question Chuck.

Why do you use some fiberglass tabbing on the mold's unstead of drywall screw's?

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Looks good Strick. I know what Ed is talking about as well. Sometimes I get the timing right and somtimes I don't the good thing is that I am never too early on trying to make the little slice.

As far as the hull deformation... you can look at it this way. Now you have more bow flare. Maybe a bit more spray protection. :D

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Yea it's getting dirty too. Strength is the main reason plus the mold is 5/8 inch thick and I'm leary that I would crack thru with screws. You would have to pre-drill evry hole. I usually tack them together with finish nails and use some scrap 1708 to hold it together. It's quick and easy.

strick

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10-4

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I thought we would see some more progress by now?

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No I've been slacking. After tomorrow I think I'll be in the mood again.

strick

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First time on SCS and I've been following your posts for a long time and love to see the progress. Since I'm not working on a fiberglass project this winter I'm having to get my fix through you. I see that Wart is over here a fair amount too....

D-

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Strick,

Any progress? I have a 1970 20SF that I am wanting to do exactly what you are doing to, To say I am watching your progress with enthusiasm would be an understatement. I am hoping to start mine in about 1 week so let us know.

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Hey Strick, I have several books on boat repairs and none are as good as your post are.
Finally going to start my new transom and braket for my 23 WA.
Any drawings still arround from yours. It would sure save me from making a more yard art.
BigMike

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Thanks for the kind words fellas. I'm taking a little time off from the project to do a little fishing/R&R. The weather here sucks right now for fiberglass work and since I dont even have a garage I cant get out of the elements which has me less then motivated right now. Big Mike- sorry no drawings but it's relativley simple once you think it out. PM me and I will measure my bracket and give you the dimensions.

Strick

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Any need to put a small bilge pump in the bracket?
I guess my question is more,is there a reason not to?
If I would put a small breather through the hull so that I don'y build up to much pressure in the 115o heat of the Mojave blow the seem in the swimstep/bracket.
It would make sence to me to put like a 500 gph or smaller in the bracket.
Sorry if that's a dumb question. But I am the inventer of Murphy's law.

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If you put a pump in there, you'll have a convenient place for it to flood by. .... plus the pain in the neck of running power to it.

Why not just use a clear deck inspection cover? .... They seal well and you can always look in to see if some how something's gone south.


Darlene

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I was going to pump it into the main hull. Through a gromet as was the power.That would be enough of an air leak to keep from blowing a seam. The reason I don't like out board hatch is because of the time I sunk one side of my catamaran. Something broke the port hull inspection plate and I was sideways before I found out.
By the way it was impossible for something to break that plate and it could never happen...LOL
BigMike

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I see this recommended on place's like Fl. Sportsman & THT.

It's a dumb idea. If the dang thing leak's FIX it. Don't put a band-aid on it.

Use a Armstrong hatch. Easy to get off and they don't leak.

http://www.armstrongnautical.com/images/DckPlts.gif

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I dont see any reason to put a pump in there. Even if they fill with water the boat will still float. They all get condensation built up and that is unavoidable. I let mine air out from time to time by pulling the armstrong hatches.


http://www.casdvm.com/photos/DSCN3866.JPG
http://www.casdvm.com/photos/DSCN3996.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/DSCN3965.JPG

strick

Re: Here We Go Again
 

I think you're finding an issue where none exists.

The increase in pressure from expansion of the air in a bracket from sitting in the sun just isn't that much.

As a corrallary, if you trailer a boat up to a high mountain lake, then the lower atmospheric pressure at altitude has the same net result as doubling the internal pressure where you started from.

You'll have to jet leaner, but nothing blows from the pressure differential.



Darlene

Re: Here We Go Again
 

All good points except it not blowing the seam. At lev. of almost 5,000ft and a diference of sometimes more then 50o and the area of the top of the bracket.
I decided that if I forget to leave the plug in on the wrong day I would regret it. So I am going back to aluminum which is much easier to work with for me anyhow. No pump and I will make my own hatch.
I know some of you guys don't like metal and they don't look as nice and are hard to coat, but it would be easier for me make. A one weekend job at most.

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Been a while. Cold weather and no shop to work in has set the project back a bit. Anyhow here is what litle progress I've made. I took the easy way out on fixing the deck cap. while it was flipped over I ran 3 layers of 1708 over the seam.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5491.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5492.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5494.JPG

It's solid and I should not have any issues with it. I'll laminate over the top of it after I install the anchor locker bulkhead and re-attach the cap to the hull.

Next I flipped the cap back over and cut out an access hatch for the anchor locker. It is more symmetrical then the pic shows. It also gives me access to glassing the buklhead in place.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5604.JPG

I did a little grinding and fitting and then bonded the cap supports to the sides of the hull.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5548.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5549.JPG

If you notice I made tops of the cap supports so they slope downward toward the hull cap joint so water runs off the cap easily.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5547.JPG

Making the anchor locker bulkhead turned out to be a bit of a mess. In this pic you can see the white Melamine (sp?) board that I used as a flat mold/template for proper shape.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5573.JPG


Even though the melamine was waxed the resin never really cured despite a 48 hour wait before removing the part. I attribute that to the cold temps out side. There is 2 layers of heavy matt and two layers of 1708 on either side. The core is 5/8" foam board. I put some plastic on the top and squished it all down.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5563.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5562.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5565.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5572.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5574.JPG

I had to gring away all the fibers once it finally cured.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5603.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5605.JPG

Getting tabbed into place

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5609.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5610.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5611.JPG

I had to center the cap and check my measurements so it will all be strait.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5612.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5613.JPG

View from inside the anchor locker

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5617.JPG

Were I sit now

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5616.JPG


strick

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Awesome work as usual.....even my lady asks if Strick has anything new posted... ;)

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Progress has been slow going. But I'll show what I've done since my last post. Since the side supports were now in place it was time to secure the the deck cap. I used bolts to pull the cap to the hull. Everything was going ok until I reached the last third of the cap. I had to make a cut on each side in order to be able to pull the cap into place.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5635.JPG

As you can see I continue to pay dearly for my mistake earlier in the project. After I finished securing the cap with bolts, I ran rivets along side the bolts.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5640.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5637.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5638.JPG

The bolts were then removed so the rivets alone held the cap in place. It will be much easier to get a rub rail over the rivits then the exposed bolt heads. I then glassed the entire underside of the cap to the hull and side supports. This was a messy job because I was working upside down. I had to resort to brandy instead of the usual beer to complete the glassing. At any rate it's solid and looks good.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5642.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5643.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5644.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5645.JPG

I took some matt and started to fill in the gap I created when I cut the cap.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5654.JPG

I also glassed in were the 4 rod holders used to be.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5651.JPG

I turned my attention to the transom. I got the grinder out and began prepping it to recieve the transom cap that I will be building soon.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5646.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5647.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5648.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5649.JPG

Begining the mold for the transom arch. A piece of PVC was used to get the basic shape.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5662.JPG

2x8 used for the top frame

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5664.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5665.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5666.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5668.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5672.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5673.JPG

Motor came in today. Thanks Tim for the help in getting it off the guys boat.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5675.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5676.JPG

Finished mold for the transom tap

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5677.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5679.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5680.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5681.JPG

Thats it for now.

strick

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I'm over 3,000 miles away and it's like being right along you in your shop!
Your posts are the best "How To Book" on the web http://floridasportsman.com/art/worthy.gif

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I agree with CaptChuck......your photos are my how to....
only wish I was nearby to lend a hand.... [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

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Well I'm not sure if it's the best how too but it is one man's how too. [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] Remember I'm always open for suggestions. Will be working on the mold some more tonight.

strick

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Excellent work Strick.......That motor isn't a 1996 by any chance? I agree with the how-to comment.

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Strick, I think if we took a vote and send the collection plate around, we could buy a web cam and have streaming video while you work. :cool:
What-a ya think guys and girls, (we have to remember we have Darlene "Virgin Islander" with us now)
Lets send Strick a web cam!!!!!! :D
See ya, Ken

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Strick - I can set that up. We've got a few of them here for surveillance in Student Housing. One of them is focused right on the Pool in a freshman dorm . . . (for liability/safety reasons).

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How do we get THAT URL Big????

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Ken, don't forget perhaps the 2 most important ladies on the site - 65 Bowrider and JMoesly!! :cool: