Re: 21 Hull #136...Restoration...Progress Update.
 

Actually my cart is a rebuild. It does not have an IQ. A bigger motor and a new speed controller. Most of the carts on the island are all former country club carts that are bought wholesale and then rebuilt to the owners taste. Very few are brand spank'n new.

Re: 21 Hull #136...Restoration...Progress Update.
 

Sounds like a good idea to me, especially in this economy. With the aluminum frame those things can last a lifetime. I have pictures of a 1963 model in which the dealer changed the batteries, tires and refurbished the seats and she's still running strong! :eek:

Great job on the boat, can't wait to see pictures of her splashed! :D

Making molds
 

The last month was mold making for one off parts. If you never made a mold and part try it some time....because that is what it takes is time and more time.

I wanted some side and back panels for radio, rod holders, and junk. I modified a panel that I saw on the 19' bow rider.

To hide the water hose and fuel lines, I borrowed Stricks idea and made a couple of towers to hide the lines. Lastly for the back part I saw how the same era Chris Crafts (23) enclosed the rear for storage so I made a couple of those. None are installed yet. Just a rough fit, and put on the back burner until the floors are completely done. Still struggling on how to attached all these parts.

I think all parts were made in the semi traditional way of, make a mold. Clay the seams. Wax the sides, part all the sides, and then shoot duratech down. After that 1708 and epoxy. All of the parts came out real nice a smooth no real fairing to be done.

Here is a collage of pictures hopefully you will see where I am going with this :D :D

Carla's Bow Rider:


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...BRorigDeck.jpg

My template of the side storage:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0031.jpg

Make a two sided mold:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0028.jpg

Checking pattern to Mold:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0015.jpg

Dura tech and Lay up.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0006-1.jpg http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0054.jpg

Popped out of the Mold.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0066.jpg

Stricks Tower:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0032-1.jpg http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0003-1.jpg

Trial Fit:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0002-1.jpg

Rear open storage part:

Layup and then two halves:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0007-2.jpg

Before cutting apart:





http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0008-1.jpg

Trial fit:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0014-2.jpg

Now the real fun begins...fairing and sanding...fairing and sanding...fa...

You get the picture ;)

Re: Making molds
 

I was very impressed with the molds you made....especially taking extra care to design, excuse me engineer in a beer holder. Seems your priorities are in order.

Re: Making molds
 

I'll drink to that!

Update on the \"21\"
 

Well for the last 3 months or so I have been playing Michelangelo (laying on my back glassing and fairing the bottom). What a PIA if I could of flipped the boat I would have.

What I did was this...first had the bottom soda blasted. Then I had to clean up the areas that the blaster could not get to. After that I started filling pin holes and such. After seeing where the stress was in the chines do to the fact a bulk head was removed by previous owner I decided that the best fix was to glass areas that showed a lot of stress and to reinforce from the inside and out. On the outside I used 6 inch 9 oz. tape.

When that was done than more fairing. After fairing I got some Petit Protect (barrier coat)and rolled on 2 coats. This was sanded smooth and now the bottom is ready for epoxy primer.

When the temperature settles out here in Florida I will be ready to spray.

Pictures of before,during and after.

Hull right after soda blast.




http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...IMG_3077-1.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_3076.jpg

After fairing and Protect.


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0008-2.jpg

Glassing

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_3905.jpg

Fairing

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_3909.jpg

Protect

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0002-2.jpg



http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...der/bottom.jpg

In the next week I should have the transom and rear cap faired out.

Pictures to follow when that is done.

Time to go a fairing :D :D :D

Re: Update on the \"21\"
 

Lots of work !!!! ... But looking REAL nice!!!!

More Work Done
 

The transom and rear top cap are now pretty well faired out primed. Just need to do the final touch ups and then keep moving on the gunnels.

The transom glass had so many cracks and pits that I decided to fair it out first, and then lay over some 10 oz.cloth and epoxy it so it would not show up again. That turned out so well that I turned the rear cap and transom into a one piece unit. Now the gunnels will get the same treatment.



Transom Before

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...IMG_3079-1.jpg

10 oz. Added

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...transom1-1.jpg

Fairing

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0040-1.jpg

Primer


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0020-2.jpg

Cap Before

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...der/cap1-2.jpg

Alignment..blocked and taped underneath

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...ader/cap-2.jpg

Glassed and liquid fairing compound

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0019-1.jpg

More Primer

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0018-2.jpg

Time to take a break and get away from the heat...will be on Holiday :D for the next 5 weeks in the Midwest and the Great Northwest.

Re: 21 Hull #136...Restoration...Progress Update.
 

It has been awhile since I have done anything on the boat besides fair or epoxy and lay glass. So I thought I would do some fun work.

This series of pictures is how the high speed bait well pick up turned out...

My first challenge was to make a template so I could transfer this to the bottom.







http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0016.jpg

Once it was routed out and tested a flush fit was the reward.



http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0012.jpg

The next step was to make a backing plate so that it would be able to take the stress of a pump and shut off.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0015-1.jpg



Once you grind away enough material you get a flush fit.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0013.jpg

Now the fun begins...I took my template and screwed it to the bottom on the hull after I laid out where I wanted the hole.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0018-1.jpg



http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0019.jpg

I used a flat router bit with a collar on it to get the right size lip. This is the first pass.


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0021-1.jpg

The next part was to clean it up at depth.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0022.jpg

Now I have a new hole in the boat :eek:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0024.jpg

After some minor die grinding...we now have a high speed water pick up that is flush with the bottom :D http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0026.jpg

Now the last thing to do is fair out the inside and mix up some epoxy and glass the pad in.


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/CIMG0027.jpg

Re: More Work Done
 

Wow,that looks great.

Re: More Work Done
 

very very nice. how much to do it to my boat??? :D

Re: More Work Done
 

Nice, where did you get that pickup??

Re: More Work Done
 

It is a gemlux product. Todds lures will get you a good price on it (forum member).

Not that hard to do. If you buy the pick up I will send you a outline of how to do it, with a copy of the template.

Re: More Work Done
 

Thats the answer to to all pick up problems! Low profile; won't snag anything or create much turbulence and best of all, the holes are small enough to keep out pump killing debris. Sweet!! I've got to get my azz across that harbor and see that 21 in person!

Re: 21 Hull #136...Restoration...Progress Update.
 

That is a beautiful job and a great piece of hardware. What are you bedding the pickup in? epoxy? 5200?

Tod

Re: More Work Done
 

You are right, I have a clam shell pickup on my Parker that causes the Port engine to cavitate under certain conditions, that style would help alot.

Re: 21 Hull #136...Restoration...Progress Update.
 

Thanks, right now I think I will do 4200 on the water side bottom and then use boat use Thiokol to fill the void in-between the wood and metal in the mounting pad. That way if I ever want to take it apart I will have a chance.

Come on up we are on the water so you can boat on down. 5 miles north of the Boca causeway.

Re: 21 Hull #136...Restoration...Progress Update.
 

Got it, I couldn't get my head around how to bed it in 5200 (or similar) and epoxy the block down. Duh, you can epoxy the blocks down and fill the void after.

I think you sold a numer of those pickups with that pictorial. I know I have the use for one!

Thanks,

T

Top Side About Done
 

Even though it seems like progress is never very close I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

For the past few months I have been working on the top cap of the boat. Under normal circumstance's this would not be too difficult. However do to the amount of crazing and spider cracks the project has become monumental.

Grinding out all the stress and spiders was out of the question. So I decided to lay glass over the entire cap. If it was one flat area that would of been easy. But as you can see by the pictures there are a lot of curves and skinny toe rails.

What I did was use 4 oz. cloth and epoxy resin. This was the only weight that would contour to the tight bends.

Hopefully this will be heavy enough to keep the cracks from returning.



This type of spider on the top gunnel was cause by down riggers with no backing. Ugh.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...91115-1313.jpg

Crazing and impact.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_3335.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_3336.jpg

More Crazing

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_3464.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0003-2.jpg

I think you can get the idea :D


Glass layup


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0009-2.jpg

This is the part that you had to babysit the curves and make sure there where no voids.

The front deck lay up easy...

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0015-2.jpg

After all lay up is done then I used a product called ProSeal EZ Coating System.

This is a two part component epoxy,a pre filled system for filling the weave in glass cloth. It is applied by roller and brush. I call it a liquid fairing compound.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0021-2.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0019-2.jpg

Some Zebra strips...and now I will be sanding for the next week or two [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...00502-1307.jpg


The good thing is the hull above the water line has very little in abuse and that should be a snap to get that done.

More to come as soon as I get it done ;)

Re: Top Side About Done
 

Ouch thats a lot of work Terry but I think you made the right move by covering it.....you would have never been able to get it fair with all that grinding.

strick

Re: Top Side About Done
 

Terry-Great job. Did you lay glass over the entire bottom of the hull? Did the hull sand blasting open up enough voids and pores to require the added glass? I have been reading about re-glassing hulls below the waterline due to damage and your work on both the top side and bottom with glass fix those concerns without grinding those spider cracks and voids for the rest of your life! Thanks for the info..........

Re: Top Side About Done
 

Snooker, I did not cover the bottom. The bottom faired out real well after the sand blast. The only place that I glassed was in some of steps areas. There was a fair amount of cracks, that where caused when the previous owner removed the center bulk head to install a bigger tank. This put stress on the stringers and must of caused a lot of flexing.

Strick there would not of been enough time in my life to grind out every crack. So this hopefully should take care of that decision.

Engine Box
 

Well I figure I was getting so good at covering all my crazed and cracked parts I might as well get the last one done. [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

The engine box was a mess just like the top cap. The only difference a lot less curves. So glassing over it was a snap.




I think from last weeks post you get the picture :D




http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0030-1.jpg http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0031-1.jpg

This boat was built in 1964 and it has a Diamond on the box.

Does anyone know when they went to the Hull Profile on the box?

All patched up and covered with 4 oz. glass.



http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0017-1.jpg

Covered with Liquid Fairing Compound and ready for sanding.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...MG0059-1-1.jpg

Flip this dog over and grind out the old coring (actually this was done first).

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...00116-1631.jpg

Wooden Pads for the box hinges.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...00116-1630.jpg

Epoxy in the Plascore coring.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...00118-1301.jpg

1708 trial fit and then epoxy in. Let me tell you this thing is now sturdy. No more stress cracks that is for sure.

:D http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...00119-1506.jpg

Still sanding on the top cap. However progress is being made. My goal is to have the top cap engine box and hull ready for priming by June.

That is it for this week ;)

Trump Card!
 

Well the better half finally pulled a Trump Card.

No more Seacraft work until I do some house maintenance.

So last week end when the heat index was 105 I was hanging lattice on the under part of the house (no tears from the wife, she said I would be sanding on the boat in the same heat) [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

However I did manage to get all the fairing done on the top side. Let me tell you sanding epoxy filler is not the same as sanding primer.

The sad part is I will be shooting sanding primer in the next few weeks and will have to do it all over again.

But hey we are having fun RIGHT!

Lattice Job. First Level is 15' Above Ground

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0027-1.jpg

Front Deck...All dark spots are the high areas that have been sanded down.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_4119.jpg

Transom

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_4118.jpg

Port Side

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_4120.jpg

Starboard side. If you look real close you will see some shiny spots. These are the low areas, that should fill in with the sanding primer.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_4122.jpg

Tools of the Trade

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...00609-1126.jpg


I know these pictures are not earth shattering, but some one got to see them :D

Re: Trump Card!
 

I'll look at all the pictures you want to post. :D I have fallen in love with the 21. Just wish I had the coin to get one. :mad:

Re: Trump Card!
 

Gotta keep the the ladies happy...give a little and usually they give 200% back. They are very tolerant of our hobbies. Keep up the good work....at home and on the boat. :cool:

strick :

Shooting Primer
 

Well I finally got to shoot some primer on the boat and engine box.

I am using an epoxy high build primer. The boat itself got 2 coats (needs 2 more), and the engine box got four.

I blocked sanded the engine cover by hand and will do the same to the boat after I get more primer on it.

Boy after you shoot the primer do the little things show up etc. pin holes divots and deep scratches.


THE BEST VIEW

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0007-4.jpg

Not bad either

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0008-3.jpg

Still Nice :D

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0012-1.jpg

Engine Box with Zebra Stripes

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0001-3.jpg

Mostly Blocked out

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0004-1.jpg

The fun part when you get done is to do the water test and see how the paint would look.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0006-2.jpg

Now waiting for more primer so I can get the hull and topsides done.

Happy 4th to everyone. :cool:

Re: Shooting Primer
 

Wow that is a bunch of work. Happy 4th. I'm staying tuned for the results.

Re: Shooting Primer
 

Looking good!! Is the picture in your signature a new possibility? I liked the red and black, but love the blue with the red bootstripe. Are you closer to a final color combo or is the misses going to trump that too? :o

Re: Shooting Primer
 

When bored I go to photo shop and put another color combination in.

I am with you...leaning towards the Red.

When anybody asks my wife what color is it going to be?

Her answer is..."Do you want the color of the week or the color of the month" :D

Re: Shooting Primer
 

Excellent Job Terry, i am envious, good work. The epoxy is the way to go- lot of work- that's why my 21 had the rough interior fishing boat finish vs. the factory mirror finish. You will be glad you made that choice later on. I do know the Interlux Perfection(2pt. Aliphatic,Urethane) is awesome stuff- Aliphatics are tough and have superior UV resistance, and excellent adhesion characteristics.
Ironically Carla and i were discussing your original paint scheme, the red and black. Was that design intentional, based on a paint scheme off one of Moesly's old prototype boats? We visited this weekend and i was flipping through her albun and noticed the uncanny resemblance, and asked her. She was not sure- so how bout it ole' boy?

Re: Shooting Primer
 

The short answer no...Just looking for something that was retro to that period in time.

Most likely will just keep it stock.

White top...belt line a complimentary color to the hull color.

Still have a way to go before any color decision is made.

Hatches and Receivers
 

I know it has been hot around the country so I will not get much empathy when I say it is hard to get up enthusiasm for sanding and fairing. The difference here in South West FLA. is that when you go to sleep its 87 and when you wake up its 85 and then around noon the heat index is 108.

With that said I have put off major sanding till October [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]




Too keep going on the project I have been in the process of recessing my receivers and making 3 different size hatch covers.

First...I know this is getting anal however I did not like the look of the receiver sitting on top of the sole cockpit (it the ridge sticking up).




http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...rader/Recv.jpg

The first thing to recess is to make a template that is the same shape except larger than the receiver. Same technique I used in recessing the high speed pick up.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0012-2.jpg

Route and clean up

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0001-4.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0008-4.jpg

Check the fit before removing TP

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0003-3.jpg

Final fit :D

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0009-3.jpg

After that was done ( 4x ) 3 different size receivers. I then needed to make the hatch covers. This has been well documented before but I will give you the short on how I do it.

After the female mold is made.

Products Used

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...Trader/pva.jpg



A. 4 coats of dura tec
B. Sand mold with 120
C. Radius with clay
D. 5 coats of mold release wax
E. 3 coats of PVA
F. 3-4 coats of dura tec
G. Resin and then glass and core



Mold after Step D

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0004-2.jpg


When it is popped out everything should be perfect....WRONG

After step 4 on the first hatch cover I stopped and put the part aside for the next day (forgot the reason why). When it came time to lay up the glass I noticed that the PVA was lifting away from the mold. I thought that I could lay up anyway and put more weight on the core and press it back down. This did not work and as you see in the picture I have a few air pockets and a nice void around the edge of the hatch. This only happened on the first hatch, since the rest of them I laid up as soon as the dura tec was dry.

Ready to Pop


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0013-2.jpg

We have a problem :mad: http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0018-3.jpg

First hatch faired and Second Hatch Good


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...dTrader/hr.jpg

Three size of hatches


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0017-2.jpg

For my Ice chest hatch I made the core out of Urethane Foam

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...rader/foam.jpg



Finally I could set the receivers in place with 5200 and call it a day (more like a week).

Back side of receiver with 5200

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0020-1.jpg

Front side cleaned up and smooth


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...rader/done.jpg

Trial fit with hatch and hinge

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/complete.jpg


Hopefully I can get the floor in before Labor day :rolleyes:

Re: Hatches and Receivers
 

Thanks for your reply and advise on my post. I see how your way made better parts then mine. I respect your work. You have a true classic.
You mentioned a high build epoxy primer. What brand? I found some valspar VS 50 on clearence for under $40 a gallon and after some research found most epoxy primers will work most 2 part polys. Any insite?
Kyle

Re: Hatches and Receivers
 

Thank You,


I use a product called Pro Seal

Check out the web site. It is definitively more than $40/gal. You can put epoxy over almost anything.

Work on the V-Bunk Area
 

This should be my last bit of glassing (not counting the taping of the floor).

The V-bunk area before I bought the boat.




http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...IMG_2868-1.jpg

After I pulled the carpet up the gel coat was all crazed out.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0003-4.jpg

I like to make notes where I know I won't forget them.

Did some heavy duty sanding.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0001-5.jpg


I wanted to fill the large access holes since I would not need them and I thought they were awkward to get at.

Cut up some plastic cardboard and made it tight against the opening.

Outside and Inside View.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...rader/3333.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0002-4.jpg

The layup was done from the inside. Less fairing to do and a lot less sanding.

Different sizes of glass...the first size is the same as opening and then they get larger.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0004-3.jpg

When done it looks like this is the way it should be.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...CIMG0016-1.jpg

The next part was to lay in some backing cleats for a v bunk filler and to glass in the bow U bolt backer and the front deck lifting ring pad.


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_3878.jpg








http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMG_3873.jpg

Shoot some primer to see what I have.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...00818-1628.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...00818-1627.jpg

Happy with the results. Now to the major task of putting the floor together. :rolleyes:

Re: Work on the V-Bunk Area
 

Terry, nice work! I know you're not planning to use the bunks so this probably isn't a big deal, but are you concerned about losing access to storage space under the bunks? Since the 21's never had any foam flotation in them, they already have a tremendous amount of storage in them anyway! Will you put hatches on the aft ends of the "bunks", or are they the same level as your aft deck?

The access hatches for my under-bunk storage boxes are on top, under the bunk cushions, which is a royal pain! I often wished I HAD those openings in the sides below the bunks like Bob had on the Unohu! He could get at anything very quickly, but I have to move a lot of gear in the cabin so I can lift up the cushion!

Re: Work on the V-Bunk Area
 

Denny,short answer YES.

I already have the pattern made to put a hinge door on the aft ends. The reason for closing up the sides was that by utilizing the aft ends I can slide large items in and out (fenders etc.) with out to much trouble.

The only flip up will be the very front V and that will be for items that are seldom used.

Boat Jewelry
 

After 3 years of working on the 21 and still not done :rolleyes: I decided to do a inventory on all the Boat Jewelry that I have bought over the same amount of time.

Just the Stainless...

Yikes...

I have spent countless hours filling holes and now I will have to make new ones (holes) :D :D


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...oatJewelry.jpg

Re: Boat Jewelry
 

I like those 90 degree floor drains. After all that hard work make sure you measure 3 times and cut once :D It's amazing how long it takes putting everything back together It will be a sweet boat when it's finished. I cant stand it any more I'm putting emblems and stickers on today!

strick