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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
pulling ANYTHING thru that 90* is going to be a problem. especially throttle and shift cables. maybe you could think of getting some shop-vac hose and creating a sweep for it. i pull telephone cables at work and when we have a 90* its always in a 9 foot long sweep section and its still hard and we use a truck to pull it.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Quote:
strick |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
OK. You guys are right the hard 90's will have to go. All good suggestions so I will either find longer radius 90's, use a pair of 45's or scrap them all together. I'm in the gulf now with the family for turkey day so the changes will have to wait until I get back. We took a half day charter with a local guide and when we got to the dock he had a '75 23' Seacraft that had never been restored. He wasn't aware of this website but was interested in checking it out. We caught some nice white and speckled trout, several bull reds that were out of the slot and had to be released! I will post some pics later.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
get a PVC electrical sweep at Home Depot or Lowes. I am relatively sure that it will fit std PVC fittings
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
I still couldn't located any sweeps that would fit the DWV pipe for my rigging tubes so I went with the two 45's. If this doesn't pass inspection then I will have to scrap the tubes altogether.
Since it was locked in place I had to pick up this wire saw to cut the fitting out. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00090.jpg Fitting replacement with two 45's http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00091.jpg With the help of a friend I dropped the new fuel tank in place. I used neoprene on either side to protect the tank from the unistrut braces that I will bolt it to. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00092.jpg As recommended I also used the 45's where the tubes will come through the deck under the console. The 45's allowed me to rotate the fittings so that they are offset and get them closer together. The marks you see were from the test fit prior to gluing together. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00094.jpg |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
the 2 45*'s should work alot better than that 90*.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Will
I would run 3/4" FLAT polly "pulling straps" in the rigging tubes NOW. Remember to double the tube length so you can pull from either end multiple times without fishing them again. :cool: http://www.adtechnologies.com/images/9_image4.jpg |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Will,
I have some non-stretch 1800 pound test Kevlar cable pulling straps that work very well. I found they worked better that poly rope for me, especially if you have a plug on the end of the wire you are pulling - and no dry rot over the years as poly is subject to do. I left them in place when I rewired. I have access to more of you want some - just let me know. |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Is that the same stuff as "mule tape"?? Mule tape is used for pulling phone cables in conduit. Very flexible and almost impossible to break.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
mule tape will break. trust me. its rated for 1800 pounds. we used it on a cable puller with a force gauge and it broke at 4000 pounds. :D i have even used it for a dockline in a pinch. also works well for chum bags. if anyone needs some mule tape let me know the footage and i can send u some.
when u pull wires put another pull string on that wire so u already have a new one in there and dont have to fish it. also dont tie wrap a bundle of wires together. that way u can remove just ONE if u have to. |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Mule tape is exactly what I am talking about. I guess now that I know it will break at 4000 pounds I would need to be a bit more careful pulling wires in the boat. ;) Don't pull an extra tape - just use a lot of tape. If you need to pull from the transom to the console - say 12 or 13 feet, then use a tape that is 25 or 26 feet long. It will never get pulled out - just pull it back and tie it off on both ends.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Ron, I would definitely like to use some of that material. I will give you a call.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Quote:
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Ron, sent you a pm.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
With the cooler temps we've had I moved the console into my small garage so I could do some glass work. I had to hook up a heater and use work lights to keep the temp around 70 or a little above. I'm wrapping the interior with 1708 and still have some stress crack to fix on the exterior. I've also done some fairing where repairs were made on the exterior.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00169.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00199.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00170.jpg |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Still sanding and fairing the console. I decided to start work on the radial transom cap and started building the mold out of some 2 x 12's and hardi board. Still in the garage but hopefully it will warm up soon.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00249.jpg From Strick's post "Here we go again" I've gotten plenty of ideas for this including the sculpting compound to use. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00250.jpg I started the layup and used 2 layers of 1.5oz matt, 2 layers of 1708 and a layer of woven roven. After I get the fit right I plan on coring it with either coosa or divinycell where the rod holders will be installed. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00255.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00258.jpg Breaking the mold. Almost like Christmas morning!! http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00260.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00262.jpg It's not perfect but I definitely think I'll be able to get it to work out. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00263.jpg |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Looks like it came out great. Are you using epoxy?
strick |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Thanks. Yes, I'm using epoxy.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
After having some time to cut the flanges to size I've gotten the fit to work pretty well. The corners in the rear will have to be ground down to make the radius look right but that will come later.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00288.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00289.jpg This is the coosa coring for the rod holders. I glassed in place with 1708. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00290.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00292.jpg After this sets up I am going to sit it to the side until the deck goes in. Don't want to limit my access yet. |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Can anyone give me suggestions for a brand of paint that I can use to coat my fish box and in deck cooler???
I'm thinking I need something that will be tough as well as being suitable for prolonged contact with water from melting ice. |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Signature Finish paint will work. It's tough stuff.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Look at Tile Clad from Sh.Wm. 2 part epoxy. They use this to coat the inside of water towers. Roll or brush on.
I have used if for my fish box, live well and in the bilge area. Very tough. |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
I've used sherman williams tile clad epoxy paint and it has held up well...since it's an epoxy you dont want to have it exposed to UV or it will yellow..so it's good for things like the bilge. I'm gonna try white gel coat on the bilge of my 25 soon...since I have 5 gallons of it laying in my shop....might do the duratec additive thing to it.
strick |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
I've had to make repairs to a mistake I made early on when I wasn't real sure what I wanted to do. I had to glass the bow cooler back to the portion of the inner liner that I have decided to keep. I also replaced the coring under the anchor locker with a piece of divinycell and glassed it in.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00463.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00462.jpg I overdrilled the original 1/2" drain holes with a 1" bit and then filled them with cabosil. Then drilled again at 1/2" to give the surrounding materials a barrier. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00506.jpg This is the same piece ready to be reinstalled. It was a real PITA to get it back in by myself. Once I got it set I used cabosil everywhere it was attached originally. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00507.jpg I'm using some leftover Coosa from my transom to form the forward step at the cooler. I left about a half a inch between the coosa and the hull to allow for flex if necessary. I used drywall screws through the top of the 2 x 4's to hold it level so that the new forward deck will be flush when installed. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00510.jpg Tabbed in on both sides, front and back. This connection isn't meant to bear all the weight the area will see in the future but mainly to hold in place while the deck goes in. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00512.jpg Started building my laminating table for the deck. Since I'll be doing it outside I'm going to have to wait for good weather before starting. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00498.jpg |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Getting ready to install the fishbox in the rear of the boat. I used two 2x4's to suspend it so the top will be flush with the bottom of the deck when it is set in. Also allows me to have insulating foam around the box.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00597.jpg Drain line to the bilge. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00596.jpg Installed a 1/4 turn ball valve that can be used instead of a plug in the box. I dripped some primer in the bilge and will have to sand and repaint those spots. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00598.jpg Foam being installed. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00599.jpg Three pieces of hardi board on the laminating table for a nice smooth surface. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00617.jpg Borrowing and idea from Billy the Kid I ripped a sheet of 1/8" luan to build the template for the deck. I used hot glue to attach all the pieces http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00615.jpg Transfering the template to the laminating table. Had to get my wife to help out because of the flex in it. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00618.jpg I used 3/4" chamfer to mark the edges. Also cut some plywood for the openings for the rigging tubes and access port over the fuel tank. Started forming the hatch opening that will be in the rear. I've done 95% of this project by myself but will be recruiting some friends to help me lay up the deck. With next weekend being Easter it will probably be the following week, weather permitting. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00619.jpg |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Will you are doing an awsome job. you are a one man wrecking crew! Are you doing the deck out of epoxy? I should by stock in West System before you do! One thing that I will suggest is
make a small radius around the hatch with the putty or the mold wax I used. After you spray your primer or gelcoat down and your skin coat(first layer of mat) you are gonna need some deck putty if you are using polyester, or micro ballons if you are using epoxy. The reason you need it is becuase after the skin coat fill in any hard angles on the mold so the 1708 doesnt have to make any hard bends. you dont want to be fighting with 1708 while in the middle of the layup. I showed a pick of us filling voids with the putty. dont wait for it to cure either lay the glass right on top nice and wet so they bond together making a rock hard edge. you are definately going to need it for around the outside of the rear hatch. try to have your wife take some pics while the layup is going on, as you are gonna be to busy to do it !! :D the link for the radius wax of you cant find it. http://www.freemansupply.com/FreemanHalfRoundWa.htm |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Billy, thanks for the advice! I am using epoxy but luckily can buy it wholesale. I will be reviewing your post several times between now and lay up time.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
My plans changed as all things do for the Easter weekend and the opportunity arose for me to proceed with the lamination process. On Friday I rounded up a team of volunteers for Saturday morning and worked late Friday evening prepping the mold.
When I started the prep work the first thing I noticed was that my Hardi Board was starting to buckle slightly even though it had been covered with plastic and a tarp. I had to take screws and fasten it down in quite a few places and am still concerned some of this may transfer to the top of the deck requiring more fairing and sanding. After waxing I used my sprayer to apply the PVA. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00630.jpg Taking notes from Billy I recessed my hatch mold 3/4". I didn't have time to get the wax and wound up using the modeling compound for a short radius. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00635.jpg I carried the hatch recess all the way to where the deck will tie into the rear of the boat and hopefully drain any water that accumulates. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00634.jpg My volunteers were all in their 20's so I knew there was about a 50/50 chance of them showing up after going out Friday night. Luckily two showed at 10 and one at 10:30. I was prepared to call it off if I didn't have at least two helpers. Layup consisted of two layers of 1.5 oz matt and two layers of 1708. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00637.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00639.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00645.jpg Working the area around the hatch. I followed Billy's suggestion about using micro ballons after the matt was applied to avoid a fight with 1708 during the layup. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00650.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00660.jpg After cutting the flange off. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00668.jpg Sanding to prep for the coring material. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00664.jpg Backing for the center console and leaning post. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00669.jpg Layout of the rest of the Divinycell. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00670.jpg More to come..... |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
all i can say is WOW!!!!!!!!
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Lookin great!
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
I need atleast 4 more pics tomorrow of some more progress! everything looks good, I like how you channeled the water out for around the hatch. the deck is going to be really strong, and really light. you have to weigh it to see what it weighs. keep up the good work.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Thanks guys!
Billy, hopefully will have some more pics by the end of the weekend. Day job keeps distracting me.... Lonesurfer, I used an idea of off your post for recessing my hinges but didn't get any pics. It was one of those things I remembered at the last minute. |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Actually I meant to give the credit for the recessed hinges to Seaplusplus. Lonesurfer has had some good stuff though.
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
will where are the updates!
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
OK OK... I was hoping to get a little farther along before I posted but I'll bring you up to speed.
First I would like to mention to never try this outside. In Florida leaves fall in the spring as opposed to the "fall" as in most parts of the country. It's been a real pain to keep everything clean to get anything done. I was hoping to get the entire deck cored before I popped it from the mold but when I was inspecting it I notice that the warping of the hardi board I mentioned earlier had gotten much worse and had to go ahead and break it free and let it rest of the plywood underneath. Breaking it free went fairly well and only had a few places where it appears some of the resin wasn't properly catalyzed during the layup. Most likely due to one of my helpers who couldn't understand why we couldn't just dump all the resin and hardener into a five gallon bucket to speed things up. It appears to have only affected the matt layer and should be easy to repair once I can flip it over. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00674.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00680.jpg I had to use a regular screw driver to get the wood from the hatch recess. Came out without too much trouble though. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00675.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00678.jpg After serving as the best man in a fellow SeaCraft owners wedding I was able to get started with the bedding of the coring this afternoon. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00700.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00702.jpg An allergy attack sidelined me after about an hour so I hope to finish the coring up this week and get the deck ready for a trial fit....... |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Have had a little time the last couple of weekends to try and get the deck finished up. The coring was finished. I would suggest marking the pieces because when I got to the point of installing the pieces around the holes for the rigging tubes I couldn't remember what went where and wound up making a hockey puck in the process. I was bedding the pieces in Dura Bond but wetting the divinycell out per the manufaturer before placing each piece.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00703.jpg Looks like art to me..... maybe someone in the government will think it's worth buying for their modern art collection. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00704.jpg My friend Jesse aka "the mayor" was in town from Charleston and we were able to glass the coring in with a layer of 1708. The temps are approaching 90 today so it should be ready to flip over pretty soon. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00708.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00712.jpg |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
After grinding off the excess glass around the flange we flipped the deck over this morning. There were some areas in front of the holes for the rigging tubes where the resin hadn't properly catalzed during the layup but it seemed to only affect the layers of matt. I've cut those areas out and will be repairing in the next couple of days. This is going to take a lot of sanding but overall am pretty happy with it.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00717.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00721.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00719.jpg http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00720.jpg |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
where are the updates
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Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Billy,
the long hours from my regular job have been killing my restoration. I have been doing a lot of sanding in the evenings but nothing worth posting. I bought a small amount of Signature Paint for my fishbox and hope to paint that and the console this weekend. I have been waiting for three weeks on a fuel line that was backordered that is preventing me from installing the deck. Thanks for checking in! |
Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
Need...mo...updates... :D
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