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Chuck - That's a brillant use of MDF . . . to make male and female parts. Did you have to do any trimming on the hatch or did it fit in the female mold with a sawblade width clearance :) |
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Hey Doc...
How about a tranquilizer dart in their little butts! :eek: I have the little buggars in Florida too. All kidding aside, How about an all expense paid trip to Disney World and an unlimited stay at the NoBones B&B! :eek: I know, I know, you have Disney Land but we have SeaWorld with REAL killer whales. (me bad) Strick, you are doing an awesome job. The real challenge awaits you here! Hope I can come close to what you are doing with the 25! See ya, Ken |
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Wow, Strick you are hauling a$$ on that thing. Thanks again for posting so many pics - its a real help in getting my head right to attempt glass work. are you using 1/2 baltic birch for coring or what? How big are your squares? like 4 or 5"?
How much product do you us in a hatch like that (the water storage one)? So many questions...Looking great! :cool: |
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I was worried that the fumes from the Awlgrip might do the little buggers in but they are still kicking. I don't see the mother come around that much so I worry that she might abandon the nest. I thought about moving the nest but I'm sure that would have been a death sentence for the little guys. The hatch has about 1/8 inch clearance around the edges. It will get screwed down in place since I wont be needing to get in there except to set up the water bladder and connect the hoses and fittings...and maybe check on things once in a while. I hated to cut a hole in the deck like that and I also thought about buying a good metal hatch but they were $300-$400 and would have been rectangular or square. This will look nice when finished. There is enough room to mount a flush base for a table stand.
Nobones- I have a tranquilizer gun but the darts are bigger then the hummingbirds. I have one client that has over 40 Bison. It will bring down a full grown bull Bison when we need to. When I worked in the Vally I used to use it on the Portuguese fighting bulls or irate cattle that are out in pasture. Not too long ago I had a big cow with some wire wrapped around her leg and she was not letting anyone get near her to remove it so out came the tranquilizer gun. It also works great for vaccinating semi wild livestock where there are inadequate facilities to run them thru a chute. We just load the dart with vaccine instead of tranquilizer. Gil- I probably used about a gallon of resin to make the receiver and hatch. strick |
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Chuck its looking awsome, you can do some amazing professional grade work.
I see the Fein multimaster is coming in handy! I have yet to brake mine and I have been abusing it for 11 years! What are you paying for a gallon of resin out there? I am helping a freind build a deck for an 18 and I was quoted 25 a gallon. Have you been finding stuff breaks out of the mold easier with more PVA? I see you did 6 coats on the flange. Keep up the good work with lots of pics and dont forget about taking pics of the stupid stuff that makes a difference. just bought a new tool to toy with http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=6646 let you know how it works! :D |
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Hey Bill-
Just a tad over $100 for 5 gallon pail of isopolyester. Vinylester is $120-$130 if I remember right. Getting it from Composites One. The fein can take some abuse that's for sure. Mine would not take a charge the other day. I have the cordless one. One of the little metal things that is in the battery that makes contact with the charger was stuck/pressed in. I pried it up a little and bingo it was fixed. The patent has run out and now there are several other places that make them for cheap. Yes things are popping out of molds without any problem. One thing I like about using more pva is that it's easier to peel off the part when it's thick. I wish they made a vacuum attachment for a disk/flapper grinder :D strick |
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You know when Sears and Harbor Frt. get specialty tools like that...the patent is gone. :D |
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I bought an expensive Milwaukee right angle drill and it broke after a year or so...went to harbor freight and bought one of their cheap right angle drills and it is going on 5 years of abuse. My Hitachi cordless drill just took a crap on my and it was only about 2 years old.
strck |
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Tools are getting hit or miss. I have some great cheap tools and some cheap tools that aren't worth a damn and expensive ones that are the same. Even the return policy on Crafsman hand tools sucks now.
Boat is looking GOOD!!! |
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Another milestone completed as I got the inside of the boat painted on this Easter Sunday. Next week I hope to get the top cap back on the hull and then get the boat on jacks and start working on the outer hull bottom and sides. The engine is almost ready to go back in the boat. Both the top cap and the inside of the boat are painted with Awlgrip off white. The floor will get nonskid of a different color Awlgrip.
http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/198.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/199.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/200.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/201.JPG strick |
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Moving along slow but sure..... some shots showing the forward deck hatch. Everything was painted last week but I wanted to let the paint cure before I set the hatch in place to see how it turned out. Looks good and is nice and solid. This will get screwed in place once the fresh water tank and forward bilge pump are installed.
http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/202.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/203.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/204.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/205.JPG I've started making two sacrificial molds out of MDF for the seat boxes that I plan to make. I'm hoping that I can lay out a small live well, a fish box and a small cooler for beer and drinks inside these two seat boxes. I hot glued some shims to get the shape of the inner liner and then transferred this pattern to the MDf. The molds are stapled together and then some scrap glass is thrown in order to keep them strong. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/206.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/207.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/208.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/209.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/210.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/211.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/212.JPG strick |
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Looking good. Lots of easy access storage room in those boxes. Insulation might be nice. I'm planning a custom fit fish box and am still undecided on the insulation process. Probably interior and exterior molds filled with expanding spray foam.
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strick |
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Chuck that hatch looks awesome. What are the dimensions on those seats? Really really nice job.
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Slow, but sure?
Where are the Keebler Elves? Nice storage Doc! How are the Peeps? Cheers, GFS |
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You backyard hacks never cease to amaze me :D
Fantastic work. :cool: |
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I think you'll make Albacore season this year!!
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strick,
I will be watching with great interest as you detail out those boxes. I had something similar in mind for mine, but smaller boxes. Yours look like they're big enough to mount a pedestal seat on the front and still have room to sit on the back of the box itself. Is that something like what you were thinking? Dave |
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strick |
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She's starting to look like a birdhouse. Where are you hanging the hummingbird feeders?
Looking Good Strick! Those hatches are awesome! Forward bilge pump eh? Not a bad idea... Interesting note for you; the bilge pump in our 25 is about 25 years old. It's the second one. Since I've been looking after the boat, the pump gets about 10 mins use a year. Last year the boat was in the water for about 4 months and I didn't get enough water in the bilge to use it at all. Well, thats partly because I didn't wash out the cabin and stepdown... :rolleyes: anyway it's a good idea to put a second(or third) pump in. You never know when you'll need it. Dosage taken Doc...thanks |
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Thats a good point and I've been thinking about how I'm going to do that. Simply pouring 2 part expanding foam into the cavity between the two parts would bury the live well and fish box fill/drain fittings in the foam. Also if I poured foam on the bottom of the liner I would have to rasp down the foam as it would no doubt expand more then I would like it to. Probably the easiest way to do it would be to use spray foam and spray the inner liner prior to glassing it in place that way I could control how much foam I apply and then let it air cure prior to setting it in place. Any suggestions as to what kind of spray foam is best for this application would be appreciated because the only kind I can think of at the moment is the stuff that comes in a can you buy at the hardware store which is used for sealing holes in studs and gaps around windows during installation.
My crew came over on Sunday and helped me get the cap back on the hull and we also removed the boat from the trailer and placed it on jacks. I could not have done this alone so I got to thank Bill, Scott, and George for their help. we used the gantry crane to lift the top cap onto the hull but it was not tall enough so we still had to manually lift and carry it forward to set it in place. I was worried that we would gouge up my paint job when replacing the top cap but I'm happy to say that we did not get so much as a scratch on the inner liner paint job. Also the cap fits perfectly and all the bolt holes line up. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/213.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/218.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/219.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/220.JPG sanding the teak swim platform. This thing is going to look really nice when finished. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/214.JPG Working on the seat boxes. The one with the larger hatch will store dead fish and the one with the smaller hatch will have a live well inside. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/215.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/216.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/217.JPG With some luck I hope to get primer on the outer hull sides and bottom this weekend. strick |
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I've used alot of Great Stuff in the past. If you have the patience, put it in a little at the time and let it expand. After a couple of times, you should get an idea of the expansion rate. Practice first. ;)
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Not sure that this can be used as a generalization, but I just got a close look at a couple of boxes that had been insulated with spray foam, don't know what brand. Bad looking job, lots of gaps, lots of variation in the degree to which the foam expanded. It was obvious that getting the foam to cover evenly was beyond the appliers skill level.
Experimenting sounds like a very good idea and be prepared to go another route. I've used the sheet foam method, worked very well for me, nice looking too. Spa Creek had a publication "The Perfect Box: 39 Ways to Improve Your Boats Ice Box" that detaile how to do it. I still have my copy if needed. |
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I was thinking of the 2 part spray insulation used on the plywood between trusses. A friend of mine is in the business. Problem is the confined space and excess pressure.
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I have built lots of things using blue household foam insulation. It is very inexpensive, easy to form using a Surform, and crazy strong with just a few laminations over it. It has been used for many structural applications including all Rutan aircraft. It is only compatible with epoxy however, ester will turn it into napalm.
I would consider bonding it to the inside and skinning it. |
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A little progress this weekend. I was able to get some work done to the seat box molds. The MDF was sanded with 220 and modeling clay was used to make the radius's around the corners. The molds were then waxed with partall paste and 5 coats of PVA was then sprayed onto the mold surface. This was allowed to cure 24 hours and then duratex was applied to the inside of the mold.
http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/221.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/222.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/223.JPG I made some patterns of the top and sides of the molds out of heavy construction paper and then pre cut all my glass and core cell to fit. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/224.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/225.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/229.JPG 2 layers of heavy matt were laminated in place http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/227.JPG The a layer of 1708 and then the core cell was glued in place http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/226.JPG I try to use up as much scrap fiberglass as I can. Using the extra material helps cut costs on glass. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/228.JPG The gaps between the corecell were filled with cabosil and then 2 layers of 1708 are laminated in place. All the corners get a layer of 1708 tape several times during the lamination. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/231.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/232.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/233.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/234.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/235.JPG I've been working to get the bottom of the boat ready for primer. There were 3 thru hulls that needed to get filled and now that we have access to the bottom of the boat we were able to finally get that done. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/236.JPG Moving back to the seat boxes. Excessive glass was trimmed with the grinder and my little harbor freight tool that I showed earlier. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/237.JPG The roto zip works well to cut the glass on the out side of the mold. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/238.JPG Some shots showing the part coming out of the mold. It's nice when things turn out good as this seat box did. No alligators or voids in the glass...and the part did not stick to the mold.... all problems I've had at one time or another. I think I'm starting to get better at this. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/239.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/240.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/241.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/242.JPG The clay is removed to be used another day. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/243.JPG The box is strong and light weight. There will be a liner that goes into this when I get a chance to make it. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/244.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/245.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/246.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/247.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/248.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/249.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/250.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/251.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/252.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/253.JPG Thats it for now strick |
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Nice work!!! I wonder how many of us with suffer withdrawal symptoms when you finish. Keep it coming! :cool:
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Strick. You are getting really good @ this. Nice clean part! What was the thickness of the layup finished? Also..What is the thickness of the core cell? Pretty cool stuff...keep up the good work :cool:
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Withdrawal is real! Check out the last few pages of "Here we go again"! Strick, What was the 'Harbor Freight" tool you referred to? Also, any thoughts about fabricating an oval shaped liner and glassing it into the inner top of the seatbox? My '85 has the seat boxes, but the liner is not glassed into the inner top so I will have to seal them if I want to use one as a bait tank. I should also mention that each of the boxes have a small sump in the bottom with an outlet leading to an overboard thru hull. A perfect solution for either draining the bait tank and rigging up an overflow drain. |
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Yo Strick,
Exactly when do you sleep??? Most important, when do you work??? I have all I ken-do just gutting the 27... [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] Lookin' real good Chuck! See ya, Ken |
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Strick,
Great work! I found the thread on your rebuild from 2 years ago last fall. Spent a crazy amount of time reading all 20 pages. Learned a lot. And I just found your new project last night. We're about 45 minutes from where you are and we boat in the Delta also. A couple of questions, if I may. 1. Back in page 4 in your post 81730, you show both the fuel hatch and the forward hatch. Why does the fuel hatch have all of the little wood squares, and the forward hatch doesn't? And why did you cut the wood into little pieces instead of leaving as one large piece of wood? 2. Where did you learn how to make molds out of MDF? Are there any good books on the methods you are using making custom marine parts out of fiberglass? I'm looking forward to more pictures and posts on your project. Titaniumboy |
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Looking good as always.
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Hermit- the sides including the 1/4" corecell are a little over 3/8 inch thick. The top is 1/2 inch thick including the 3/8" corecell. I can stand on the top without any flex and I weigh about 190. The seat box weighs 41 pounds.
Biglew- The seat box pictured will be used to store dead fish. The other one I'm making will have a small livewell in it. Both will have liners glassed to the underside of the seat box with appropriate plumbing and both will be foam insulated. Below is a picture of the harbor freight tool I use to cut glass. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/192.JPG Ken- I get by with about 5 hours sleep... believe it or not I have been working 10 hour days lately. Most of the work is done at night and weekends. I usually don't leave the shop till around 10-11 O'clock...and I have help with the sanding that needs to be done...I have not been out fishing since November...most importantly my family is very understanding about my boat addiction. I just want to get this thing finished so I work fast :D BTW you are moving along nicely on the 27. Titaniumboy- both hatches are cored with plywood cut into squares. If you go back and re read the project from 2 years ago you will get the answer as to why we core with squares instead of one big piece of wood. thanks fellas for all the cheering A photo of some red California Poppies that I snapped last year http://www.casdvm.com/photos/25%232internet/254.JPG strick |
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Yeah, strick, you have a very understanding gang there... Looks fantastic. Love that concave profile on the seat boxes - great idea! Will they be tabbed or puttied to the hull/liner, or bolted down.
Thanks for sharing the great documentation. Please, don't pick the poppies... :cool: |
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Hey Gil- There will be a cleat mounted to the floor of the boat inside the seat boxes and there will be some screws that screw through he seat box and into the cleat. You ever see any red poppies?
strick |
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Yo guys be smokin' them poppies and eatin' hummingbirds. Lucy in the sky with diamonds..... Those were the daze. See ya, Ken |
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"Yo guys be smokin' them poppies and eatin' hummingbirds."
Maybe a 'not so new' meaning of the term "Up in smoke!" |
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