After getting down to the inner skin in a few places I am amazed how thin it is. It's like a single layer of glass and that's it.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps113f90a8.jpg

Finally got down to fiberglass on the starboard side bottom. Tools used so far: skill saw, sawzall, hammer (2)' chisel, and 3/4 inch drill bit and drill. NOT FUN!!!!!

i fear my transom is probally the same. but im not geared to cut it open. ha.

I have seen a lot of guys use a small electric chain saw to get the hard to reach places. I used one to get under the glass of my deck that was soft worked great!!

Yeah, I did a lot of research on here before I cut into it and saw that a few guys used chainsaws. I may go that route in a few areas that aren't as wet. The real wet stuff comes out pretty easy for the most part. Gotta have patience is all.

Im still trying to decide if I should cut the top,so i can slide one big piece in or what the best way to go about it is when it comes time. Ill also reinfoforce the inner skin with more glass.

I cut the cap on my replacement and thought that was an easier job then digging out! Now if your boat is not being rehabbed, and the transom not repainted, then digging is the better way.

I had a shit can full :eek:

http://www.classicseacraft.com/captc...edium/0030.jpg

Yes Sir Capt., the trash man was not real happy with me for a few weeks while I was doing my transom!! That wet wood crap is heavy. :)

Merry Christmas!

In the past two days my father in law and I cut the transom out and dug out all the rotten wood around the sides and bottom. Pretty good for two days. We also cut out the aft portion of the cap on both edges so we can hopefully slide the new transom straight down in one piece. Here's a few shot of the father in law in action. Pics suck cause I had to use the iPad. Ill get some better ones later.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8509cdcd.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3e59209d.jpg

So, do I raise 5 inches and repower with older engine or replace it with the original height and engine or pay the $ for a shaft extension. How much could I get for the 1990 115 merc? Runs great but is off the boat for any tests or compression test. Complete with controls and harness. I'd really like a 25 inch shaft but the most cost effective would be to put everything back as original and finish modifying the splashwell. Decisions decisions.

I would never go to all the trouble of redoing a transom without at least raising it to 25" because it's so easy to do right now, and you'll be kicking yourself later if you don't! The 20' hull is pretty susceptible for getting swamped by a big wave with the 20" transom . . . there is a reason they went to 25" and full height splashwells on the later models!

And rather than spend $500 on an extension kit for a 1990 vintage motor, you might be better off just putting that $ towards a 25" motor, and with a little luck maybe you could pick up a later model fresh water motor. Both Big Shrimpin and Egg-dog seem to have a lot of knowledge and contacts on Merc's - I'll bet they could help fix you up!

"Egg-dog".......good one Denny. I'm betting Egg-dog was heavy into the Egg Nog this Christmas!

Ditto on the 25" shaft/transom, it's a NO brainer didcussed many, many times on this forum.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps55408676.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4eb3a3ae.jpg

Console showing some progress. Almost ready for gel coat or paint...see my other post

Well, I got my template cut for the transom today and also put the first coat of primer on the console.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps662d3a65.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psd05eb888.jpg

I decided to just go with paint for the console vice gel coat, only because I have more experience with paint than gel coat.

What's that "White Stuff" on the ground , spilled gelcoat :confused::eek:

It's weird, sometimes frozen water falls from the sky up north here. It's a wicked P.I.T.A.

Even more so inland! I have a foot of that stuff all around!

I finished the console and decided to put a few Christmas presents on it. Came out alight I think. Not perfect by any means but definitely fishable.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps98a42575.jpg

Alright guys...how much paper thin dry old transom is allowable before starting the new transom??? I have been hand sanding the lip I have on the transom for two nights now. I am trying to get some tool that will work for this but everyday I can't find one means more hand sanding. I know what kind of tool I need but can't find any one at work who has something close. I don't want to buy a new tool if what I have done to date will suffice. Again I have paper thin wood in spots, others are down to bare glass. What wood is left is dry and very minimal. Please tell me I can stop sanding and start building.

If you are using epoxy it will stick to anything and is a lot more forgiving then polyester. I would say start glassing! :)

strick

im using poly, but i think i have the right tool in hand to finish any remaining wood. heres what i think...cut two 3/4 inch transoms. laminate together with mat, dry fit into transom, determine how much glass i need to add to build up where i can still slide it in from the top. remove dry fit transom, add the required amount of glass, slide it back with putty against inner skin, brace in place (clamps, screws, etc...) than either add more glass and fill edges with chop strand/resin or putty old skin on and grind the edges and reglass in place. Any thoughts or issues with this idea?? Wicked nervous about structural glass work, but with all your input it will ease my pain. thanks guys.

Elijah

You are correct bigshrimpin 2 3/4 inch pieces would be too much. Gonna go with 3/4 and prob. 5/8 laminated together. Hopefully this weekend ill get it cut and start putting it back together.

Everything is ground down. Just gotta patch the old holes then cut my transom.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps595f0ea3.jpg

I will begin putting the transom back together either tomorrow or Monday if my resin shows up today. I will be adding to the thin inner skin with three layers of glass (mat, woven, mat). Then two more layers of mat, then the 1st piece of MG ply followed by 1 layer of mat followed by next piece of ply then building up the outside skin and re attaching old skin. I have the first 5 layers of glass cut and everything cleaned and organized for when the resin shows up. Should be quite the learning experience. Any issues with this layup schedule? Thanks

Elijah

The first piece of transom was put in place using my previous post description. All the bracing has been removed in the pictures, a few clamps and wedges are still in place though.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psa91ba53b.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps196d1d2a.jpg

Next piece will be 1/2 inch ply followed by glass then replace old skin back in place. It's nice to have some progress. I also got a tilt helm pump and new wheel for the console.

Here's a picture of the console with new tilt hydro helm pump and new 13.5 inch stainless wheel. 3 gauge holes are cut, a larger 4th hole will be cut to the left of the other ones for the tach. The rocker switches will mount on the vertical face starboard side I think.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8324a118.jpg

Not too much accomplished but got some more stuff in the console. I took leave next week to finish the transom (hopefully)

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psb6af2be6.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psb66d273c.jpg

Ok, I got the last piece of plywood on. Between the plywood that is in now and the existing skin I left around the edge there is a gap which varies in thickness. Ranging from tight to maybe a little less than a quarter inch. When I go to put the old skin back on, how do I account for the different gaps so the skin goes back on uniformly? Or should I not worry about any gaps and let the cabosil make up a difference I may have and just bond the old skin to the new plywood then grind down the 12:1 and glass the seems? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Elijah

Well since no one chimed in in time I laid a piece of mat on the last piece of installed plywood and put back on the old skin. I will need to do a little more grinding and fairing on the bottom where the difference is greatest. The sides match up pretty well, overall I'm pleased with it. The hard part is done now. Now I just need to grind the seems, glass em back together, fair and paint.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...ps592c89be.jpg

Looks Great!

If no one chimes in.... means you are on the right track!

-Fred

Keep up the good work!

Bill

Thanks guys, being that this is my first rebuild I guess I just need a "yup, good plan" or " NO, DON'T DO THAT!" every once in a while to either confirm or dispell my ideas. I have done hundreds, if not thousands of research hours on here since 2007ish but every rebuild is different even if your doing the same project the same way, ie. transom from outside. Thanks again.

Aren't you done yet? :D

I wish wildman...so here's where I'm at. I know the deepness is what matters for the grinding so there is no bump after the glass is applied but how does my width look? What is a good layup schedule to glass the seems. I'm not using 1708 but have mat and woven at my disposal. I was thinking three layers consisting of mat, woven, mat. I'll probably grind the seem deeper to ensure a good finish. Thoughts??

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psf903774e.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...pse81f3bd4.jpg

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psa093823c.jpg

Nice work . . . you might want to go a little deeper with the bevel on the outer skin before you glass the seam. The sand flat with a long board.

If you don't have one of these . . .

http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggIma...0_11190554.jpg

Come on over and borrow it.

Do you mean sand the bevel flat?? Or do you mean after I glass? I think that's what you mean...

sand flat after you glass the seam .

Sorry Elijah, totally unrelated question, but how have you been able to get away with creating that much fiberglass dust in your garage?

I get busted at the front door when I get home just looking "dusty".
Have to strip right there in the front yard. Not particularly good for my neighbors property values, but it does explain all the recent Yeti sightings in Orleans.
;)

She'll get over it. I tell her all the time I've been in a relationship with a Seacraft longer than I've even know her.