I put a vacuum gauge on my 25 at Bushwacker's suggestion. Best, most useful gauge I had.

On the oil temp gauge: My 300 hp Volvo 5.7 did not come with an oil cooler. I put one on(and an oil temp gauge) before I started using it and the oil temp was still on the high side. Stay above 7 inches of vacuum(to keep the exhaust valves from burning) and all was fine, but not if I exceeded that vacuum. For sure, that engine would have been running too hot without a cooler.

Running too hot on oil temp once cost me an engine, so I'm a bit sensitive to that issue.

5 in. Hg = 12.23 psia map (manifold absolute pressure) = 78.21 KPa. The formula for converting inches Hg to psi is: PSI = 14.69(1 - “Hg/29.92).
KPa = 6.395 x PSI

If it were me, I’d put a big 270 degree sweep 2 5/8” Vacuum gauge like this one https://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-vacu...n-hg-mech.html, above & centered between your tach & speedo! You’ll find that it’s very sensitive to engine load and health. You’ll want to be able to detect a change of 1” or less, so the more readable it is the better! I used a vacuum gage on my truck when towing and it was so sensitive on Florida’s flat roads that I could tell if I was running into a headwind or not!

Ty! I’m planning on putting a Holley terminator x handheld on the helm area. It displays KPa in real-time from the LS. But, You’ve convinced me. I’ll probably move the Hobbs meter to a smaller one below near my high bilge alarm and I’ll put the vac gauge and oil temp in the cluster. I’m trying to make them look close but there are lots of options out there.

Sounds like a good plan! Agree with Connor on importance of an oil temp gage. I’ll admit to being a bit of a fanatic when it comes to instrumentation, but I was involved with some testing of some very advanced fighter engines where, in the quest for maximum thrust, we really pushed the limits of the materials, with safety factors commonly as low as 15%! I used to get really upset when an instrumentation technician would try to measure a 50 psi pressure with a 500 psi transducer! (Accuracy is always a fixed % of the full scale reading.) By having good instrumentation, we were able to avoid many engine failures that would have occurred if we didn’t have accurate measurements of critical items.
I
On a long Bahamas cruise on our 8 knot trawler, I make it a habit to do an engine room check every couple hours with a hand held optical pyrometer, where I can check stuff like temperatures of the prop shaft packing glands, transmissions, exhaust elbows & hoses, belts, alternators, oil coolers & heat exchangers, as well as spotting fluid leaks, etc. Helps add to your piece of mind when no land is in sight for 6-8 hrs!

Good luck with the rebuild. Looking forward to hearing how that rig rides and performs!

My gimbal housing came in last night! Ty IslandTrader!
https://i.postimg.cc/CzzvJYtM/095-BB...23-E6-D1-F.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/LhyCzhx0/1713-F...386-E77173.jpg

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https://i.postimg.cc/3Wrf42Fv/7-AC20...AE07-AE4-F.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/F78TB85y/F0-DD0...DE2-CC1924.jpg

So was talking to flexpat. He and I were discussing engine risers, billet vs cast etc. I will need some on my engine amongst other things we talked story about.

In midst of the convo he mentioned Carl m. Told him, I wish we’d have filled in that transom area on bottom side of the hull. I’m dealing with the same issues blue heron did on trim tabs. Some may not remember but basically he had to take a mold of that bottom area to customize his trim tabs. Otherwise they are half in half out no matter what speed you are running.

By filling in the bottom areas in question, you end up with an inverted trapezoid. You’d have to taper that out 12-18”. I could easily do that. I want to get a little closer to done. I’m not sure if I want to do that now while on stands or wait until it’s back on trailer… my preference I think.

I was thinking I’d run it as is. Get a baseline and then make that change so I have before and after data. I don’t think it’s gonna matter other than trim tab efficiency. But would appreciate feedback on this.

Have you looked at the Volvo Trim Blades? I have them and they work great!

https://www.volvopenta.com/en-us/mar...t-trim-system/

That’s a good idea Terry for that boat.

Strick

Those look real interesting terry do you have a pic of yours installed? I’m going to measure it out and get an idea of what it would look like.

Thank you for that idea.

Here you go!

Attachment 24658

Attachment 24659

Local guy here had ZipWake on his newer 21' and loved them. Same theory, different manufacturer.

https://zipwake.com/

Ty guys!

Yes I saw zipwakes when I was looking. I was trying to see how the tabs were mounted on those chines. I was contemplating putting an aluminum piece on with slots that I could then adjust the tabs up and down…

But I’ll definitely utilize one of those 2 tabs depending on price and availability. (Read Shipping)

Now I need to start cutting the keyhole for the drive.

Alternate idea on tabs: build'em out of metal with a step to match the hull. That has been done at least once and worked fine for decades. one piston per side. I'd have to go back and look up who it was and I dont think the pics still exist, but if there is interest, I'll look.

Just for reference, I had bennet tabs on the outside strake and they worked fine.

Blue heron did that by glassing the hull and attaching to his metal tabs but the pics are gone now.

I talked to a fishing guide in MA that has the auto zipwake system on both his 20 SC and 23 SC. He loves them, says they are much better than regular trim tabs to automatically
(quicker by far) to keep the boat level with less drag. He thinks he uses less fuel.

I think I am going to get the zipwake system for my 20 SC - Its only money, but looking at the 3 or 4 350 hp engines on 30 ft CC in the marina - I tell my wife it could be worse.

Sorry I never replied, stu. You are absolutely right. The price of some of these new boats is nuts.

Well here all I’ve gotten done recently (not much). Been really busy at work.

Got the new teak for helm done. I need to sand it and finish it. I can’t make up my mind if I will cut the holes directly in the teak for switches or put a housing to hold them. I’m open to suggestions. Something like this is what I’m leaning towards. I think it will be sturdier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

https://i.postimg.cc/kD9RvhRv/EAA162...CCF7E02E01.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/ctsK1rGb/9A2F3F...6C8762BC13.jpg

I took a 4/4 teak board and resawed (split in half) then planed it and glued it into a panel. You can see how the grains book match. Not sure why the other one didn’t turn out as close…oh well the wonder of wood.

I’m going to add another piece of teak down the front and join the 2 pieces together and have the steering wheel and my id plate there.

Now if I could just get my engine parts…

So here’s the rest of the helm.

https://i.postimg.cc/ykcRXMnn/43CAFA...5A110052B2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/pmBn3KwF/A3C566...800714535F.jpg

I need to tweak my gauge cluster spacing. Once I get that finalized and the teak oil dries I can move on to install, then remove, varnish, and reinstall.
I’ve got to let teak oil dry for a bit 12-24hrs.

That's purdy.

So here’s some progress. Sorry I got sick for 3 weeks. Dr’s wouldn’t test for covid b/c my family who got me sick came back negative previously…

Anyway here’s pics of helm coming together.

I like it except for the 2 oddballs. I found some chrome paint I’m gonna try out. I’ll pull those 2 out mask off the dial. Rough it up and paint it to match the rest. Hope it works.

https://i.postimg.cc/qNytcVT3/04A24B...728B7798AD.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/crVg81VW/123998...9450C80FB4.jpg

This helm area has the hobbs meter.
Will have a big compass and radio controls. Thinking Bluetooth only a place for phone to handle it all.
Also trim tabs controls.
I can’t seem figure out how to put fish finder on here that makes sense. I think I’ll put it over the cabin like strick did. So it’s eye level.

https://i.postimg.cc/5Hm6GBj9/3B0A79...6403ABA127.jpg

This will have the steering wheel, ignition switch, safety kill interrupt.
Was thinking about the vhf down here or up over the cabin by fish finder.

https://i.postimg.cc/06vzcWkH/1CC826...5A9390E57D.jpg

Hey X nice progress glad to here your feeling better! Had the chart/sonar overhead on my 20’ for a while and did not like it. Relocated it to the Cc and found it much better there , now for the VHF recently relocated it from the Cc on my 23’ to the overhead box I just made and like it up there better along with adding a nice vhf speaker and the overhead lights.Seams like a boat it never done until after we sell them . Then it’s I wish I’d gotten a chance to do———-

I’m with you I can’t figure out where to put it either… I’ve looked at so many ways… I’m now to point of being sick of it.

my most of the box solution, Was to rig up a hole and some teak pieces so I could flush mount it on the helm there I’m still toying with flush mounting there.

flexpat tried to convince me to put it on a swingarm. I really like the classic look of analog gauges but I was dead set on dual screens via a nmea 2k gateway…

I’m hating to say I may not have the right fish finder chart plotter… but the CNO might kill me. But one of those new Simrad or furunos smooth touch flush mounted might be just the thing.

Nice progress. Those Faria Chesapeake gauges look nice. I am back and forth on those in white or the Newport SS. How do you like the switches bracket holder thingy? I was thinking of just mounting individual contoura switches, but that bracket looks clean and neat too. Did it make it easier to install?

The guy told me white is most popular, black second. The CNO insisted on this one. Something about the teak and gauges complementing each other. Fine with me…she designs it, I build it.

Love the switch bracket. You have fudge factor that way for the bracket. It’s the blue sea one on Amazon. Only thing is it’s only 6 but I’m pretty happy with it. The switches have a very positive locking into place and work well. I wanted to do plain into wood. If I did that I’d do the toggles vs rockers. Labeling becomes your issue then.

I tried rockers straight into the teak. I broke a board by pressing it in too hard.
Mine is 1/2” space between the lip of one to other. I can supply measurements or whatever for you if it helps.

Great, thanks. 6 works for me and can always move the horn button or something to on its own if need be.

So I think I finally have the helm finished with wiring.
This only the items that are not switched (vhf, fishfinder, stereo) will have their own switches on the device but fused through the power supply.

This took a little bit of work. But my OCD is pleased. It should be easy to install and troubleshoot should I need to

You can see I daisy chained the grounds on a row with light loads. However the top row with bilges, PTT, and cig lighter adapters are individually grounded.

I used 12awg for grounds. And mainly 14 awg for the rest but some 12 in app loads.
For clarity Red is fuse block to power on switch.
The orange is switch to load. I plan to put them near each other. The wires are in same order as switch rows and should be able to install them in corresponding order, hopefully.

https://i.postimg.cc/K3S4r3r6/00-A39...D2-ED9-ACA.jpg

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https://i.postimg.cc/Lq5qHp8b/7-CC46...C750-F5-D7.jpg

That's nice!!

So now that the engine is “done”

I’m going to focus on cutting the keyhole in my transom. This is very stressful to me for some reason. Any ideas in regards to the x dimension would be helpful.

Once I get that done I’ll install my transom assy thank you island trader!

Then it’s on to the engine mount blocks and rebuilding the b3

I’m leaning towards rebuilding it with some good used lower driven gears
And a brand new set of uppers with cone clutch etc.

I’m leaning towards 2:1 Ratio but toyed with 1.81…suggestions appreciated.

In meanwhile I’ve got design plans for a teak engine cover, teak rocket launcher over fuel hatch (lowest priority at moment), cabin to finish (teak bulkheads to fit, cushions, under sole work to do batts etc) and lots of things to wire up.

So here is a link for the template cutout for the bravo (I believe alphas too)

http://download.brunswick-marine.com...m/79135006.pdf

I did download this off of scribd too. If anybody needs it pm me and I’ll send to you. If you take the file to a local copy center (I did OfficeMax), they can print it out for you. Make sure they don’t do the auto fit. Tell them you need exactly as is for cutting out the hole to correct size. I printed it out on 8.5x11’s first. Cut them and taped them up. Compared that to my assy. Then went with that to the copy center and compared the printout.

My Seafari is 16deg transom angle.

There is conflicting data out there but from this drawing it looks like 14 5/16” up from bottom of keel. There is also a measurement of 13 9/16 but I believe that is off the carpenter square. In either case I’m raising mine anyway…probably 2”

What labelmaker did you use to print on heat shrink?

I used a plain old dymo label printer. Bought some years back at OfficeMax. Make sure it can do vertical printing instead of horizontal and I increased the font and used caps. Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/DYMO-LabelMan...%2C222&sr=1-11

I used this for the heat shrink labels:
Aonomi Compatible Label Tapes Replacement for DYMO 18055 1/2" Heat Shrink Tube Labels for Use with DYMO Industrial Rhino 4200 5200 5000 6000 Label Maker, Black on White,3-Pack https://a.co/d/2ySxMWI

I needed 2.5 cartridges for all that. I’d recommend the 3 pack for sure. Then just buy whatever size your label maker uses, 1/2” was mine I think.

I'm in the process of wiring my 20' project and got the Dymo 4200. FWIW, Dymos idea of shrink tube size is way off the mark and apparently does NOT reflect the inside diameter. A 3/16" drill bit will barely fit inside 1/4" shrink label.

Very true. I was concerned the 1/2” I used would not shrink well on the wire I used. It fit like a glove. I think the dymo measurement is from side to side (OD diameter) vs inside diameter of the heat shrink (ID most are used to).

I used 14awg and some 12awg on the bigger stuff. You can see from pics how it turned out. You may want to leave a space to put the shoulder of your heat shrinks so you don’t have a mishap like I did on the blower label. The R in blower is bigger because I didn’t leave room at bottom for shoulder… oh well I’m only one who knows or cares I suppose. But I’m still tempted to redo it.

I ended up using the flat label and clear shrink on some bigger wire.

So I’ve been racking my brain on how to see data in real time like a Holley term. X gives you.

There’s a Bluetooth obd2 port scanner and an app called torque. If you use an android device you can see this in real time. A lot of car guys use this. I’m going to get one of these so i can trouble shoot some gauges and find out hp rating.

In meanwhile,

I’ve figured out where and how I’m going to mount the B3.

I’m going to move the AV plate 2” above the keel. That means. My transom is 16 degrees. Check yours but that’s mine. The x dimension is 13 9/16” with a framing square OR 14 5/16” up from keel with a tape measure. They land in nearly the same place.

Then I’m adding 2” to that. Now full disclosure. Merc says only move it 1”. BUT it’s a whole lot cheaper and less work to buy a spacer to drop the leg down than to move that transom assy up. I also gain 2” of working room which is nice.

You’ll see 2 black dots in the pic. And my finger is pointing at 2.5” on both I believe but 2” seems to be the braintrusts suggestion. I will bow to the superior knowledge and experience.

https://i.postimg.cc/DWYhR0Nt/3FAA15...41392E23DE.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/HJLHSX6w/FAD9FC...D23B2123B1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/XGGWW3SX/7F13D6...54FEC5960F.jpg

Ps my buddies around here are dying for me to get this done.

I need to get b3 rebuild kits. I need upper and lower gears. It was a 2:1 and I anticipate keeping that but suggestions are welcome.

Well if weather will ever cooperate I think I’m ready to cut it.

Here’s my mock up. Before I could cut the clouds in the background opened up.
There is only 1 chance at getting this right. Anyone notice anything let me know.

https://i.postimg.cc/jWjNRT0Y/D09A7C...78909AC41D.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/kVhS4Hq6/27E3D9...7E23A2A830.jpg

So here it is with template cut down

https://i.postimg.cc/VSzKCg5B/0CE119...87C1B22899.jpg

I measured from center of pad 2” I think? Then I measured beam to beam and then chine to chine all lined up very close to my center line of pad. Within a 1/8-1/4” or less. One of those other marks hit my line exactly…

Again this is the X dimension of 14 5/16” +2” so 16 5/16” on the center hole or x dimension.

Here’s the dry fit of the transom assembly. Need to let stuff dry and cure and rains rolling in. I want to glass around the cutout and the holes to prevent water intrusion. Will report back when can.

https://i.postimg.cc/yk6NBrKF/64BD05...E93DF1356C.jpg

So in process of rebuilding B3 outdrive and ordering parts. It’s taking forever.

In meanwhile took some teak scraps and had a buddy make me some new screws for the seats. See the original plastic one on right. 1 was badly bent and another was missing altogether.

https://i.postimg.cc/3W739L06/52A549...E6D5A01CCC.jpg