Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Alright, Alright.....

This is fishbox after two heavy coats of Signature.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC2.jpg

Yesterday the 3/8" fuel line that had been backordered was delivered after waiting for a month. Thanks to advice from Sea++ I swapped out my 1/4" pickup tube that came with the tank before the deck went in.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC3.jpg

After reviewing everything to make sure I hadn't forgotten anything to be installed below the deck I vacuumed her out one last time. You can see the bow area has one coat of Signature on it as well as the CC further in the background.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC5.jpg

The PVC pipe in the back right is for the raw water washdown. It almost got left out but remembered at the last minute.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC4.jpg

We balanced the deck on the bow to get in position to drop it in.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC6.jpg

After on last test fit I smeared Cabosil on the stringers and dropped it in place. After that cures I will go around the perimeter and add more cabosil where the deck rest on the blocking before I finish the seam with 2" tape.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC6.jpg

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Looks like I posted the same pic twice. This was the installed shot.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC7.jpg

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Looking great....deck fits nice and snug but it's hard to see in those tiny little pictures. Size your pictures 640x480 before posting :D

strick

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Not sure about the technical issues with Photobucket but will try to get some more posted this week.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

I found this attachment for sanding with a drill. Works pretty well in areas like the recess for the hatch.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC1.jpg

Before I started working on the deck again I decided that I wanted a way to access the compartment around the fish box since it was completely enclosed and foamed in. This port was installed in the bilge area that will take a water tight deck plate so that I can air it out from time to time and access if if necessary. The overcut was filled with 5200 before the deck plate went in.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC3-1.jpg

The drain fittings that will flow to the scuppers were installed and bedded in 5200.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC5-1.jpg

Instead of using the 2" tape I mentioned earlier I opted for 6" strips of 1708. I wanted to make sure I had a good bond on the edges of the deck.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC7.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC8.jpg

After making the connnection to the forward deck transition.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SC9.jpg

Next I decided to install the transom cap permanently. I took some measurements and there were a few areas that had to be built up to make a good connection. You can see the strips of cloth that I used to do this.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...glish/SC10.jpg

After setting the cap in a bed of cabosil I used concrete blocks to keep it stationary until everything set up.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...glish/SC11.jpg

Next I turned my attention back to the top cap. I was able to obtain about 20 gallons of Polyester Resin for free and plan on using it to fabricate the remaining parts that I will need. This was my first time using it and everything seems to have went OK. I mixed up a test batch the day before.

I didn't know if this would work but what I'm trying to accomplish is to close in the interior bow portion of the top cap so that I can install hatches for storage.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...glish/SC13.jpg

I used hardi board that was waxed and coated with PVA. I laid out out the cloth pattern that I was looking for and then wet out the first two layers of woven roven and 1708.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...glish/SC12.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...glish/SC15.jpg

Once this cloth had gotten tacky I wet out the inside edge of the existing top cap and installed the board and secured with dry wall screws. Next I started glassing additional layers from the other side to eventually sandwich the exisitng glass from both sides.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...glish/SC16.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...glish/SC19.jpg

After the glass had set up I peeled back the hardi board and was pretty happy with the preliminary results. Plenty of cleanup to do but none of this will be seen.


http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...glish/SC21.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...glish/SC22.jpg

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Lookin good!

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Been following your posts as I have a '74 20 SF that I'm just starting to tear into ....

Little late now but curious if you checked the hull flex before glassing in the deck - remembered you had the 2x4's early on notched so the gunwhales /fwd deck will go back on?? Did it move much / any?

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

PackRat,

I have check the hull flex with my 2x4's several times so far. Most notably was after I swapped the trailer out for the one it's on now and before I built the template for the deck. I would say it has flexed very little but I did have the top cap on it to take some measurements and it went back on pretty easily. After seeing your post I slapped them on last night just to be sure.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SE5.jpg

I got the top cap flipped over and started grinding and sanding to prepare for the last couple layers of matt. I would say the painters tape that I had put on to keep resin from sticking to areas of gelcoat that had already been ground down was a good thing. I believe it helped prevent much more sanding. I'll use it again on the bottom for the next application.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SE1.jpg

Some time ago I cut the gunnels to what I thought I wanted but after taking more measurements I'm going to trim them again. You can see near the transom will start at 4".

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SE3.jpg

And be around 7" where the transition to the forward deck is made.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...nglish/SE4.jpg

A couple of questions.

1) Did the original Potters come with rod holders in the gunnels? I didn't think so but on each side the top cap looks like it was laid up to accept the top radius of the rodholder.

2) Can the same fairing compounds, cabosil, admixtures, etc. be used in Polyester that is used in Epoxy?

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

After glassing the inside of the cap. The pics may look funny due to the late afternoon sun.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC1-1.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC2-2.jpg

After doing some research I found that this boat did come with rod holders and decided to add some leftover coosa board for backing.

After cutting out the divinycell.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC4-2.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC5-2.jpg

Coosa glassed in place.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC6-2.jpg

Ragged edge of the top cap from old screw holes.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC3-2.jpg

I used painters tape on both sides and a syringe to inject cabosil. It set up nicely after several hours.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC7-1.jpg

Top cap back in place temporarily.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC9-1.jpg

One conflict is that my raw water and rod holder location is now in conflict. I've got to figure out how to work around that.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ish/SC13-1.jpg

Cuts have been marked out.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ish/SC12-1.jpg

After cut is made.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ish/SC11-1.jpg

After giving it some thought I the decided to make the cut 4" the entire length.

Marked again.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...glish/SC14.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ish/SC15-1.jpg

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Coming along nicely, keep it up! :D

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

I started building the forms for the gunnel supports. There will be three on each side that will mirror each other so I am building three forms that will be used twice each.

Carboard was used for the template. This is transfering the dimension to hardiboard.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC1-2.jpg

Form to be waxed and have PVA applied.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC2-3.jpg

Glassing in the area between the transom and the top cap.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC5-3.jpg

Center console after three coats of Signature.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC3-3.jpg

I couldn't help but mock up the teak facing I built a while back. Still have some sanding to do.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC6-3.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC7-2.jpg

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

I know the feeling. Every once in awhile you just have to do something that looks good...just to make yourself feel like your getting something done, and not only glassing and fairing all the time.

The router work on the teak looks real nice. Nothing like a little teak to make the boat look "Salty" ;)

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Amen!!!

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Lookin good. That teak is gonna look amazing.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

I'd like to cut my gunnels to about the height you have marked in your photo as well. My inside gunnels currently run all the way to the floor. Do you need to finish the inside of the hull that is exposed? And if so what's your plan for doing that?

Also, what size fuel tank do you have in there?

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Thanks for the compliments guys!

Mitchman,

keep in mind that the inside of the gunnels were originally attached to the deck that formed the inner liner. I scrapped all of that when I built the new deck. If you go through some of my earlier post you can see how I cut it apart. Not sure how yours is set up but you could wind up with a void between the deck and the hull if you cut it withough removing the entire inner liner.

The exposed surface that you see is woven roven which would leave a very rough fnished surface. I've thought about fairing that surface but think that I will wind up adding about two layers of matt and sanding that down before painting. I will have to remove the top cap at least one more time when I install the supports and glass them to the hull and deck and will finish both sides at that point.

Either way I'm looking at a tremendous amount of sanding which is going to require the purchase of a new unit. Apparently my Black and Decker Cyclone has been discontinued as I can't find paper for it anymore and I don't believe my orbital is up to the challenge. Any recommendations for what to purchase would be appreciated.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Missed the last part. It is 47 gallons which was the size of the original. I just couldn't imagine that I would need anything bigger than that.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Pre mount the rod holder then use a heat gun and bend the raw water pvc to fit :cool:

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

The real conflict was that I had originally planned on having the two rod holders exposed to view where they passed through the gunnels. The gunnel support would have hidden the raw water line and would be used to mount the hose bibb on. I decided that I would make the support at that part of the gunnel 8" wide as opposed to 6" for the other two for each side. This way I could just hide all of it so I bought two rodholders that are tapped for a 1/4" drain and will run tubing to the bilge. I had to decide between a rod holder with either a 15 or 30 degree angle.

In this picture you can see a sheet of paper where I laid out both to analyze a possible conflict and decided to go with the 15 degree type. You can also see where I used 45 degree bends at the angles for the washdown line to reduce friction loss however minimal that might be.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC4-4.jpg

Support angles after glassing.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC1-3.jpg

Being popped out of mold.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC2-4.jpg

One that has been trimmed to fit versus the raw one. Notice the sharpie lines, it takes some time with a lot of gradual cuts to get these to fit correctly right.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC3-4.jpg

Supports set in place to check the layout.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC5-4.jpg

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

I know it is a little late for this comment...however.

Is there a reason for doing the support angle mold as a male mold (the way you show in your picture):D

If you did it as a female mold you would have less fairing and sanding to do? Just curious. Otherwise things are coming together well.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

IslandTrader,

I didn't have a reason other than I thought it would be easier to reuse the molds that way. They will take another layer or two of matt to tie them into the gunnels and hull sides. I am encouraged that I only have the forward deck and two hatches to build before I am out of the fabrication business. You are correct as I am resigned to the fact that I will probably have a couple weeks of sanding and fairing at a minimum.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Just a FYI you can use female molds over and over also. The main advantage is that your outer surface comes out smooth. Take a look at your inside of your part that you popped. Much smoother than the outside I would guess.

Now that you have resigned yourself to sanding and fairing (like I had to do) take a look at the web site posted. This is the product that I used and believe me it really works and cuts down on sanding time and major fairing. You can buy here in Florida...if interested I will give you the sellers number.


ProSeal

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

After getting the gunnel supports set in placed and tabbed to the hull I went ahead and cut the openings for the hatches that will be on either side of the bow.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00920.jpg

The front of the forward gunnel supports didn't line up perfectly with the storage area so I raised the top cap to glass the inside of the support to the edge of inner liner. Hopefully this will ensure nothing would find a crack in the storage area and rattle around the hull.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00916.jpg

Also tabbed the inside of the support to the hull with three layers of biax for support.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00917.jpg

After that was done I glassed the top cap to the supports. I ground down the gel coat to make a better transition. I used a strip of biax at the seam and a top layer of matt.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00919.jpg

Also glassed the last portion of the transom cap in the needed to be built up to match.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/DSC00918.jpg

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Started building my foreward deck mold yesterday. Using my work table a a base. It wasn't wide enough so I added the 2 x 4's to support the hardi board.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC1-4.jpg

Hardi board installed. I moved the mold into my garage. With rain almost every afternoon I didn't want to worry about warping.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC2-5.jpg

Framing out for the hatch.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC3-5.jpg

Wax and PVA. Will probably apply one more coat of PVA.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC4-5.jpg

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

I know you are getting close to be out of the part making business (I think I am out of the business :D).

One tool that I found to really ease the PVA application is a Touch Up Sprayer. These can be had for about $15.00. Really no mess and easy to clean up. PVA comes out real smooth.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...00818-0903.jpg



Keep up the progress.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

IslandTrader, the pic was taken right after application and it did smooth out some. Having said that, the heat was brutal and could have used some help in the layup.

Mold before layup.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC5-5.jpg

2 layers of matt
1 layer of biax
1 layer of roven

This is after the layup.


http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC6-4.jpg
I'm still trying to get the hang of the polyester resin.

Several hours later. Some of the sculpting clay actually was "baked" from the heat put of from the resin. Some clean up to do but once it's cored should be fine.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC7-3.jpg

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

I know what you mean. When the heat index is over 105 all you want to do is melt [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

If you were closer I sure would of given you some help.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Thanks IslandTrader. At least someone to hand me a beer!

Formed up the two hatches.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...Picture001.jpg

Laid up

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...Picture004.jpg

They turned out pretty good. I must have neglected to photo them when I popped out of the mold so it will have to wait till Monday. Gotta go check on my deer this weekend!

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Motivation has been hard to come by lately. However, I feel the need to press on.

These are the hatches after they were removed from the molds.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC1-5.jpg

Coring of the forward deck with divinycell. I used a double layer of 1/2" to achieve the thickness I needed. Probably would have been better to use one layer of 1" but I had the extra laying around and funds for this project have been tight as of late.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC4-6.jpg

Coring glassed with Woven Roven.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC5-6.jpg

Dry fit.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...lish/SC6-5.jpg

For any of you deer hunters out there. Some trail cam pics from Jefferson Co. Georgia.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ish/5bucks.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ish/Velvet.jpg

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Cool deer pics. 3:49 am, they know when to walk.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

68 degrees at 4am?! Yikes. What was it at 2pm??!!! I thought it got hot here....Nice little bunch o' horns there!

Nice work on the lids. I know what "burnout" can feel like too. Keep plugging!

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

woah guy nice bachelor group ...you live in florida man?didnt know they grew em that big down there..

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Trader,
I am starting on my 75 23' CC that needs some hatch covers replaced and was wondering where to find that "Touch Up Sprayer"

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Try here:

Harbor Freight

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Yep, that's the place... ;)

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Since my last post I've been transferred to Louisiana for two months for work so my project will be on hold for a while. I was able to sneak back for an early weekend and got a couple of things done.

Installed the front deck with Cabosil.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...english/R2.jpg

Also tabbed the gunnels at the transom cap. I put some of the leftover cabosil in the void to increase the strength and provide a smooth transition once it is sanded down.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...english/R1.jpg

Hope to get some more done before the weekend is over.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

How do you like the signature finish paint on the console? How did you apply it? Spray or roll

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Corey, just seeing your question on here but got back with you via email. It's been tough logging on after being away from my Seacraft for so long. Looks like the new year will bring me back to Jax and some much needed restoration therapy!!

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

good to here. I look forward to your post. I'm sure its been eating you up not able to peck away at it.

Re: 1978 SF restoration, my first one.....
 

Looking good Will. Keep at it your almost there!

The spot in the circle will likely crack down the road. Better to grind down the area were the two sides meet then glass and fair. I don't know if you were planning on doing that or not.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/R1.jpg


strick