It's all glassed back together. I'm gonna have some fairing to do, as I have more valleys than hills bit it's got 5 layers of glass on it, mat, woven, mat, woven, mat. Started with the biggest piece first and ended with a 1 inch strip. The pictures suck but I can't get but 2 feet behind the boat for a wide angle.

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Looks good Chance! I've just started to do the same on a 1974 20ft CC. I'm wondering, some pictures look like your using composite board then others look like plywood,curious which you chose because i need to decide.Also are you raising the height of the transom ?

I'm using marine grade plywood. It may look like composite in some shots cause its wicked dusty. I did raise the transom to 25 inches, in the last picture you can see the old transom height and the new (top of plywood). I decided on plywood cause of price. The last wood core transom lasted for 40 years. If I need a new transom in half that time, I'll be pleased. Good luck, I tried to document it as best as I could but let me know if you have any questions. No expert, but I can pass on my experiences.

looking good Chance.

I've got a question for those of you that have used hull and deck putty and poly fair from Mertons. Like I said above, after glassing the old skin back on, I have more valleys than hills around the seem. Hull and deck is considerably stronger than poly fair so I was thinking I could fill my valleys with hull and deck as the first layer of fairing and then sand and begin using the poly fair to make everything perfect. Or should I glass more strips along the seem to build it up? Thanks guys

For those that have raised the transom to 25 inches and reused the exterior skin...how did you build up the fiberglass in the 5 inch area that has no skin? Did u wrap the glass from the back of the boat up over the top of the cut out and into the splashwell? Or did you build up each area individually? Thanks for the help. I know wrapping the glass over the top will be hard with the 90 degree angles. Thanks

You might what to take a router to the edges for the motor cutout. A layer of 1708 and 12oz mat together will usually bend good enough. Build the glass up on the outside and then maybe your last layer of glass(1708&12oz) wrap over into slashwell. If it were me I would grind off more gelcoat on the outside where u will be building up the glass. Basically so your last couple sheets of glass will overlap onto the original transom glass and cover more area. And grind the edge of the original glass where the wood extends up so it transitions from the glass to wood nicely, and makes for a stronger joint and less air.

And the seam where you glassed the old skin on, dont be afraid to sand down all the surrounding gelcoat to try and smooth out the seam first before u use any fairing comp. Not much gelcoat left not to just sand it all off.

Thanks parrot, all the transoms I've seen are not routered so I was curios if guys did wrap the glass or not. The way you said to do it is definitely stronger then glassing each area individually.

Should the transom be exactly 25 inches to the keel? Mine is just over 26 right now and before I glass I want to make sure I have the exact height I need. Thanks. My measurement is from the cutout along the back of the transom to the bottom, not vertically "hanging". What's the right way or does it matter?

Got the raised portion of the transom glassed today. Tomorrow I'll start fairing and sanding. The last few layers were tied into the existing skin.

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I know...I have a lot of sanding in the future. My plan is to sand with 60 grit, wipe down then fair a lot thinner, than sand with 120' then either do it again or lay some mat than continue fairing and sanding with higher and higher grit until it is good.

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Dude, you have no idea... After the first hour, you're going to wish you'd done a thinner coat with that fairing compound. Make yourself a sanding board 4" wide and at least 24" long with two handles. It will help you to get it flat. I used 1/2" plywood to make mine and stuck 60 grit to it with contact cement.
Dave

I know Dave, time I have today as the wife and kid are in Maine. I have Advil and colors light on hand though. I'll let you know how it goes. It's almost ready for sanding already. The product is poly fair from Mertons fiberglass. I may hit it with the orbital real quick all over then go to the sanding board which is ready to go.

Well, that sucked!!! Sanded down and 2nd coat of fairing applied (a lot thinner this time). Preparation is everything, wish I did a better job of sanding before applying the first coat of fairing and got everything as close to level as possible first. It won't be perfect but I hope I'll be happy with it.

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One more sanding then a layer of glass followed by one layer of fairing than final sanding

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FYI - Poly Fair is an epoxy product.
You cant/shouldn't ever put vinylester or polyester resins over epoxy.
Vice-versa is OK though.

Hope that didn't throw a monkey wrench in your mechanism...

I'm right behind you on my transom. Got the new layers of Coosa and the new skin (I bought a sheet of 3/16 flat stock from graingers and cut it to fit) glassed on with West System yesterday. Even had the wife helping, fully suited up and everything!

Went by the yard today to check it out, and all seemed mostly OK.
One of the carriage bolts I used to bolt on some two by fours to compress everything was stuck really good. Must have not mold released it enough. Damaged the new skin a little getting it out. Had to mix up some thickened epoxy and inject it here and there.
Then ground down the edges and prepped for the tabbing.
Tomorrow lunch break she's getting her seams glassed.
Then I'll dive into the poly-fair fun.

I may disagree with about the poly fair. I just did a quick google search cause you made me wicked nervous and it says it is a polyester base. I would think if it was epoxy they would call it epoxy-fair. Any body confirm either of our theories???

Make sure before you fair to sand everything as flat as possible and check it with a straight edge on multiple planes before you open any fairing containers. That's where I screwed up and got ahead of myself. Lots of extra sanding here today and its no where near perfect but I don't care anymore.

Doh!
You're right, I blew it.
You wrote Poly-Fair I read Quik-Fair.
Totally different products.
You're right on track, my eyeball to brain connection had a failure...

Way to make me sweat. Post up some pics of your rebuild so we can compare some notes. This is my first rehab so I love seeing and herring from others to learn.

Sorry about that... :o

Layer of glass over the fairing. Once it cures I'll sand then one more fair and final sand

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1st coat of primer. Not perfect by any means but plenty solid.

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My new toy, garmin 740S with airmar 20 degree tilted thru hull. P.S. 100 bucks off starting March 7th at WM. and the $300 fancy card is only gonna be $100 with mail in rebate.

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I removed an old transducer tonight and will put the new ducer in the same spot after I drill a larger hole. The hull thickness in the location is about 1/4 inch. Is this thickness about right for the 20s? The hole is about 18 inches forward of the stern starboard side of keel by about 6 inches. The old ducer was so old the wire had either rotted off or been cut at some point. Any one recognize the make of transducer and its approx age. There was a transom mount ducer which was being used when I bought it.

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Got the engine hung. Which means the transom is done done. I still need to get the extension kit. Right now the cav. Plate is 4 inches above the keel, so I'll probably taise the engine up 2 maybe 3 holes.

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Then instal tank, run wires and finally do the deck.

I raised the engine up so now the cav plate is 6 inches above the keel so when I get the 5 inch extension it hopefully will be perfect! I'm debating on buying one online that "should" work according to the local merc dealer or spending $600 on one that will definitely work. The other one is about half the price of the bay manufacturer one?

I installed the 50 gallon fuel tank today and ran the supply, fill and vent lines. I also put in the bilge pump. Up next, clean the bilge and start putting the deck back in. Am I missing anything before I start to put the deck back in?

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There is a huge "belly" in the vent line for your fuel tank. This will be a problem. What will happen is the first time you completely fill your fuel tank, fuel will flow into the vent line and fill that "belly", and stay there, plugging the vent line. With a plugged vent line, as you try to fill the tank, air will "burp" up thru the fill hose, usually splattering fuel on everything and everyone near the fuel fill. From the pics, I'm assuming your fill will be on the console.

The vent line should run continuously uphill to as high up the gunwale as possible, then back down to the vent on the side of the hull. This loop at the top helps keep seawater from entering the tank. There are inline check valves that do this, but I'm not a big fan.

Keep us posted, you are getting close to being back on the water!

Lloyd

as it is now, the fuel vent runs to starboard than aft about 2 feet, thru the stringers than up to the starboard gunwhale. Should I drill a new hole thru the stbd stringers directly across from the vent on the tank and then up to the gunwhale outlet? There would still be a "belly" where i have to go down thru my new hole in the stringer but not as big. Otherwise i'll have to vent to the side of the console and smell fuel all the time. Thank you for your insight.

Even a slight belly will cause problems. From what I see in the pics, you will need to cut notches on the top of the stringers (of course this means more glass work) to get the vent hose to the starboard side. Or you may be able to run the vent hose forward, then to starboard behind the inner liner between the bulkhead/step for the casting platform and the fishbox, then back aft under the rodholders. The problem with this is it wil be difficult to secure the hose in the areas behind the inner liner, not to mention it will be a much longer run.

Again, you do not want any place where the hose dips down, then back up again. This will cause venting issues.

I had a RIB tender on one of the yachts I ran that had the fuel tank vent on the side of the console. I never smelled gas, except when fueling.

Good luck.

Lloyd

As it's supposed to be, the vent is toward the bow, highest location when at rest. I would glass in some PVC pipe flush with the top of the stringer(s) at a 90 degree angle to the vent fitting on the tank and run the hose through that. PVC is nice and easy to bend with a heat gun if you need to. Notch the side of the inner liner below where the deck will be so it would be a level run through to the side and then a smooth bend up. Since you have set it up already to what looks to be about 3" in order to raise the deck, it should work. My two cents worth.

The entire deck is now in place and glued down. Once it all cures I'll filet the deck to gunwhale seem so the glass can wrap up the sides good. I'm gonna use 6" than 4" tape all around the edges. I'm thinking of using two layers of mat for the deck. Is that enough or should I sandwich some woven roving between the layers of mat? Thanks.

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I glassed the deck to sides using 4" and 6" cloth tape, than after that cured sanded the deck portion in preps for glassing the deck. This morning I was able to lay the two layers of mat and the sun is hitting it as we speak. I'm heading to Maine for the weekend but I have all of next week off to make some real progress pending favorable weather.

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Sanded the deck and applied a coat of poly fair. After sanding that, I needed a break and decided to work on the scuppers. TH marine ping pong. I don't really know where the water line is gonna be after my weight changes, but it does not really matter with these too much. She'll be on a trailer and seldom anchored unattended.

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Today, I was able to get the other scupper installed after a bit of a battle. Then I sanded all the non skid off the cap, filled all 100+ holes, sanded again, 2nd coat of filler on the stuff that needed it then sanded again and finally painted.

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Console is wired and now waiting to be attached to the deck tomorrow before final wiring, then painting then get her wet!!

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Got some more wiring done this afternoon. To the point where we able to suck a little fuel down the old 2 stroke. She fired right up after sitting idle for the winter. Every thing is wired except for the fuel, temp and tach and bilge pump which should be the easy part. After that, just a little paint and get a shake down cruise on her. Still need to hook up the hydraulic steering and throttle cable. I need a new throttle cable but I'm unsure what end fittings I need for this engine. Merc 1990 115hp.

Got the engine extension done today in 30 minutes from start to finish. The anti cavitation plate is now almost exactly one inch above the keel and we fied it up to make sure everything still works. Sucess!! I have hydraulic hoses trom teleflex coming this week and I need to get and install the shift throttle cables after I figure out what fittings I need. Then, paint the deck and sea trial all before I leave for California for 5 weeks on the 21st of this month.

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You are sure getting close!

Nice job on the extension.

She's goin swiming tomorrow. Trial run in a local lake around noon tomorrow. She's not done but she's 99% and I'm running out of time. All I need is cleats, rod holders and clean up the wiring a little bit. I'll try to get cruise, plane speed, WOT, I am running a 17p prop and its in terrible shape but we'll see...oh and hopefully some action shots!