I'm so mad. I went to finish bolting the engine to the transom and 1 stinking hole is off by 1/4 inch.
The others are good just the 1 upper hole. Dammm I'm I pissed

I could drill it to fit but that leaves room for vibration.

What would you do??????

Let's see here, you have three holes that fit properly, which means no vibration in those three. If it was me I'd enlarge the fourth hole that's off by a 1/4" to fit the 1/2" bolt, fill with 5200 and tighten the heck out of it with a minimum of a double stacked 2" SS fender washer as backing.

I'm so pisssed at myself right now

But I guess it will pass

Good advice Don. But I think I might consider 4200 just in case you get pissed off at yourself again in the future and need to remove that bolt without getting a hernia :eek:

mr chuck
we uze duck tape an mastik ta fix big holes
sam

A bottle of flex seal????

Fill with thickened epoxy and re-drill?

easy fix, west system epoxy six10, fill the hole and drill new

You are right Capt., good point, however I see he is now moving on to using epoxy. That's really going to make it tough to remove the bolt without a hernia!! I'm happy he did not use epoxy to set the #10 X 1" screws on his original trim tab installation!!!

Naw on that I used 4200. But spoke to the glass guy said to bring it in

Oh well live and learn

If you used Coosa for the transom, do not even worry about it..
You can drill all the holes you want or not !

No wood, No rot.. :cool:

Just say Ooops !!
Oh Chit !

Move on

What he said...ask me how I know.

I used ajay. I think I'm going to fill it in and predrill anyways

Hey NoBones. Would you say it is a waste to overdrill mounting holes in a Coosa transom? Maybe just drill and brush a little epoxy on? I plan on overdrill and fill anywhere I go into or through Divinycell. Anywhere you are backing something through Coosa/Airex it is a waste yes?

If I may interject...yes. The compression strength of the coosa and similar products is very high and being a high density closed cell material, the only water retention is the cells that are compromised from drilling, i.e., it ain't going any further than the drill hole.

I appreciate all the responses from all of you.

With Dorian and work I’ll have time to sort it out, it’s not like it’s ready to go in the water anyways

When I bolted my armstrong bracket back onto my 79 Sceptre after repairing the transom, I way over-drilled every bolt hole (1/2 inch bolt 3/4 hole), filled them with G-flex epoxy and then drilled out the center of the epoxy to accommodate the bolt.
That way you seal the core (synthetic or wood or whatever, keep the damn water out) and also have a nice bearing surface to crank down those bolts onto, with no chance of over-torquing and crushing the core.
Best method is to leave both skins (digging the core out around the hole), or at least one skin intact (preferably the outside one), thats what I did.
Just my .02 USD.

There is no reason to over drill your holes unless your angle is not
perfect on initial drill..

There are professional steel templates available for a reasonable cost,
but unless you are mounting engines all the time not worth it...

Always make a template out of a scrap piece of plywood for your engine hole
spacing IE: Engine mounting holes say 13 X 10 center to center.
Than get one of these drill blocks, your hole will be the perfect angle every time! No need to wallow out the hole...:rolleyes:

Works great on lifting ring bolts etc.....

Over drilling the fiberglass is OK, that will prevent future cracking from flex, however thick it is to the core of the transom .
Than be accurate on the remaining drill into the composite .

Attachment 20544

I got the rubrail on yesterday. Prior to installing I stretched it out in the hot sun to make sure it was long enough and pliable. When I put it on I did it a little different. Since it was already on the boat prior to removal I found the midpoint that was on the point of the boat . I then placed some screws to hold it there. I then went and screwed in the end next to the spashwell. Then it was a matter of putting it in place and screwing it down. Seems like that was easier. Came out pretty nice.

The insert is in so-so shape and am going to replace it.

Choices are original black or Taco makes a insert that has a "crome " look or a stainless steel insert.

Leaning towards the stainless one.

Taco SS is classy. And pricey.

Vezo.

Going to price it out next week and see what it comes to

Ike be interested.

Vezo

I about ready to install the helm and binnacle on the console and I have a question as to the placement. My console has the “glove compartment on the left side. From the edge of the compartment to the edge of the console it measures 25.5 inches. I want to install the helm and a 13 inch steering wheel some wher in the middle and the binnacle to the right of it. My concern is will the hatch of the glove compartment open with no interference from the steering wheel. There probably someone out there that has done this and can offer some input as to measurements.

Thanks

I went the cheap route and wrapped my destroyer wheel with parachute cord and a steering wheel knob

Sorry Jorge, I evacuated from SC to Fla, so no help here until I get back about the first of October.

Vezo.

Sorry Jorge, I evacuated from SC to Fla, so no help here until I get back about the first of October. I believe I downsized to a 13” wheel and got away with it nicely.

Vezo.

No problem I will be in Nashville till next week

Stay safe and hope the storm doesn't hurt you

So where is the best place to place the Bennett trim pump?

In back srewed to the transom? Or under the console?

If under the console is the driest place, then so it is !!

The secret is, keep it dry !!
Why do you think mine has lasted 50 years ...:cool:

Old picture but inside the console

Need to get a nice bracket like yours . I thought it would end up under the console

Where did you get the bracket for the trim pump

Like everything else it seams I had to make it- overkill most likely but it is basically a L shape with a plate under it welded on . Didn’t like the nylon bracket holding the pump alone so I cut a Pc of starboard to take up the space under it

Here is a lil better picture of it

Thanks

Wish it would stop raining so I can get some things done

So it's been awhile since I've posted any progress but some progress has been done. Gas tank and hoses are in, still need wiring to the fuel gauge. Engine is hanging on the transom and I was able to locate a almost new 5inch extension for the engine which save me a few dollars. Binnacle and sea star helm and cylinder are in and waiting for the hoses to be delivered tomorrow. Working on the ignition that is probably something simple since I installed a new starter. Hopefully I will have time to get the 2 bilge pumps and the live well pumps installed and wired this week.

The boat will need to go back to the guy that painted the boat as the non skid on the tank hatch is peeling and he said to bring it over.

There is a 20 seacraft that he is doing and he installed a leaning post Livewell comb which he has the mold for that fit nicely and for $800 I'm going to have one made and put in instead of a leaning post so the one I have will be for sale soon. Pictures of both to follow soon.

Ordered a trailer from my friends at Rocket Trailers and expect delivery mid September. Dual axle, stainless everything, brakes etc.....

Looking at a T Top, so Santa Claus now you know

Have not decided on electronics yet but I'm itching to get her on the water hopefully for the upcoming long weekend.

I'm sure I've forgotten about a lot of things but I'm getting close

Great to hear as you have been at it for a while now...love those MA's

strick

And now I have the bug to get a 23 open ......please shoot me please

lol there was this beauty featured on youtube which would even motivate me to get back into one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ee0tGyIHAuI&t=37s

strick