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PharmD2B31 10-06-2013 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strick (Post 220797)
Don't forget to add in Dad's time as well...no cheating here on CSC :)

strick


LOL.....This is true!! Maybe add in an additional 5 hours for my dads time. He just likes to get out and piddle with me on occasion.


Strick,

Didnt you rebuild a yellow 20' Seacraft??? I have been searching ClassicSeacraft high and low trying to find that build thread for that boat for ideas......

Blue_Heron 10-06-2013 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmD2B31 (Post 220798)
... I have been searching ClassicSeacraft high and low trying to find that build thread for that boat for ideas......

Um. It's a sticky. The first thread on the Repairs and Mods forum. "Here we go again"

PharmD2B31 10-06-2013 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron (Post 220802)
Um. It's a sticky. The first thread on the Repairs and Mods forum. "Here we go again"


Oh wow!!! How in the hell did I miss that???? Thanks for the info.

PharmD2B31 10-08-2013 08:45 PM

Slowly pecking away at it.... Cut open the box stringers and removed all of the old foam. Also removed the fuel tank and the floor piece that the fuel tank sat on. I'm curious to know who had fiberglassed that piece in as it was 1/4" ply that had one layer of glass on the top side. The underside was raw rotten wood.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-55.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-56.jpg

bilgerat 10-08-2013 10:40 PM

looking good!!!, your way ahead of Me on your 20 as far as progress on the tear down go's , mine looks to be in the same shape as yours,totally rotten, I did get my aft deck n splashwell cut out and the rotten transom wood dug out yesterday.

strick 10-09-2013 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmD2B31 (Post 220934)
I'm curious to know who had fiberglassed that piece in as it was 1/4" ply that had one layer of glass on the top side. The underside was raw rotten wood.

I've cut open a few of them and that's how they came from the factory. Top side of the wood was glassed but the underside was not. I still think your boat is factory judging from the amount transom rot, placement of "Potter Putty" on the stringers and the looks of the foam etc... I would not put it past the factory to use 2x4's imbedded in the foam along the perimeter for extra support.... BUT I've been wrong before :)

strick

PharmD2B31 10-09-2013 09:00 AM

Strick.... I think you are right. All factory. And yes, there were 2x4s embedded into the perimeter of the boat down into the foam. There were wood screws screwed inside those perimeter pieces also.

PharmD2B31 10-09-2013 09:17 AM

Strick..... I was originally thinking that I was wanting to use Coosa for the transom and Divinycell for the floors, but after combing through your 20' build thread, I'm thinking about going back original with marine grade plywood.

Your thoughts??

flyingfrizzle 10-09-2013 10:33 AM

I would say if you got plenty of money and are worried about weight on the boat I would go with the composites you spoke of, but if your not worried about weight much and just want it to last till you part with us here in this life the wood is fine. I have saw strick say it before up here "wood is not the enemy" if done correctly the wood will last 30+ years easy. I am using wood in most of my projects and feel like it will out last me and I am a young fellow. On the race boat I will use composites, carbon fiber, coosa, and such but weight will be a big factor on that. One other thing that comes to mind is the resale value. If you are building it to sale composites help sell a boat, but to keep for yourself wood would be my choice. I also think sometimes a heavy boat will ride better and if you get a boat too light it will loose the ride quality but gain some fuel economy. The trick is to get a good over all balance. If your going with a large heavy four stroke stroke on the back you might want the coosa in the rear to help offset the motor weight. I used foam composite core on my bracket build for my 20' because of the 465lb motor on the rear not for the rot free advantage but to try and offset the motor weight for balancing issues.

PharmD2B31 10-10-2013 04:21 PM

About 20 hours into the tear down at the moment from the time I started messing with the boat.

Secured the top cap to be removed off the boat..
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-57.jpg

Top cap removed..
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-58.jpg

Removed forward fish boxes....
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-59.jpg

Boat is officially STRIPPED!!! Now it's time to start building her back up!!
http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...1/image-60.jpg


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