Mockups
 

I like it. I love mockups when they are helpful to plan how things will fit, probably a result of managing the team that built two full scale mockups of the F119 engine for the USAF ATF F-22 Raptor in the 80s. I built at least three versions when adding a PerfectPass speed control to my ETEC 150 HO. It was essential to mockup the servo-control to make sure it would fit under the engine cover before spending money for the real control.

Don’t overlook where your gunnel mounted engine throttle control will be relative to the steering wheel, and a beverage holder (probably to the right of the steering wheel). Also consider future add-ons like trim tab controls and additional gauges. Best wishes.

Mockups
 

Hey Locke n Load
Sorry another thought as I looked at your photo again. Occasionally I drive my Seafari with the (right-hinged) door open. Make sure you won't be busting your knuckles on the door when steering.

Like what you’re doing, condition 1.

No critiques on design. I think your biggest variable will be the height of seat relative to view in relation to controls. That’s a pain. I found raising my seat improved my view and went back to near factory style. Don’t be afraid to make a living thing. I’m on version 12? And have to scrap another teak and switch panel. keep up the good work. Especially with fall coming on for you mainlanders.

Had to be upper 80’s here today. I got cooked in boat today.

Thanks for the tips and added details to consider. I do need to get the actual dimensions of the controls, but am figuring there should be plenty of room along that right side rail/gunnel. The wheel is shifted to the left. Also, the picture angle is weird, but the wheel will not overhang the edge into the cuddy access. I am planning on hinges on the left so the passenger can deal with the open door rather than the driver. :)

I got adjustable height seat pedestals figuring there is no way I will know what height I will want the seats at until actual seat time. The bottom of the wheel will be 25" from the deck. The seats also have 5" of slide travel so standing at the helm can be achieved. Ergonomics are important. I must have tried a dozen different layouts on the mockup before I settled on the one pictured. Line of sight to the gauges and MFD being most important. All the switches and panels; bilge, tabs and 8 contura will be below the wheel. That actually made me think of something else.

The helm will be framed with Coosa, but spans will be 1/4-3/8" of solid glass like sheetrock over studs. I am thinking of making something like C-channel or I-beams out of glass and securing them to the back of the helm glass panels. Components like busses, ACR and battery charger can then be bolted to the protruding structures since there will be access to the back side. I'm not sure I am explaining that clearly, but I picture securely bolted components rather than trying to glue them in place.

Here’s an idea from my old telecom days (how I got through college).

Put up a piece of backer board (coosa?).Screw that into your structure and now you a place you can screw into anything anywhere without multiple holes, or issues relaying stuff out.

Just food for thought. I’ve seen a few other boat guys apply this to boat wiring recently. Probably so they can do much of the wiring out of the boat then install the board and be done.

I have seen how a board of some type can be adhered to the hull and then screwed into rather than going directly into the hull. Anything from a transducer to a bilge pump to a battery charger. My only concern is the screw. How secure is a screw into G10, Starboard or Coosa? Wood I get has good holding power, but I am using zero percent wood in this rebuild. I'd rather bolt things in place and not have to worry about it.

The issue then becomes getting to the back of the bolt for the washer and nut. Going through a stringer where there is access on both sides works. But the box for the helm is different. I do not want to see bolt heads sticking out everywhere. My solution is making up a bunch of I shaped glass beams. Maybe two inches tall and two inches wide. Tall enough to get behind with a wrench to tighten the nut and wide enough for the bolt to go through and have material supporting it. Glass the bottom of the I-beam to the panel and then bolt whatever item to the top. Two beams per item. Maybe even help with cooling electronics since there will be airflow underneath?

I will be testing my theory soon enough and will report back. Could be a total failure or a waste of time, but only one way to find out.

If you thru bolt thru the stringer you could try what I did using old fishing poles to cut spacers large enough for your bolt then epoxy them thru holes drilled large enough to slide into the stringer . This stops the compression of the stringer and keeps water from getting to the foam inside the stringer

G10 plate epoxied onto a vertical surface has enough holding power to hold just about anything youd put in a 20fter. Can drill and tap it just like aluminum but no corrosion issues. Just have to plan out the locations.

Not sure im following the helm plan, why not use glassed coosa pieces like the stern?

Ill try to get some pics of g10 mounting stuff…

I like the idea. My plan is to make the tubes myself by wrapping glass around a slightly tapered mandrel, but I will have to check the basement for any old rods I will never use again. Thabks

If you endorse G10 then I won't question it and order some up. How thick? I think the heaviest item will be the dual bank battery charger.

My thinking with the Coosa is it is already 3/4" thick. Adding a couple of layers of glass and it is getting pretty thick and taking up valuable real estate. Also, I am running low. :( I could try patching together a bunch of the scraps. I was just thinking I have enough material to make the frame and I could make panels of straight glass to complete the box. I do have some of the Carbon Core honeycomb leftover I could use and it is economical enough to order and ship more if needed. Hmmmm...