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Sorry Hermco I spelled it wrong. I did not know what it was either until a few years ago when I saw it on the menu at a sandwich shop. Here is a link: http://www.mediterrasian.com/delicio...pes_hummus.htm
strick |
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Mmmmmmmmmmmm hummus!!!!!!!!! :D
http://www.angelfire.com/yt/scully/images/h3.gif |
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Now I know how Strick get's so much done so fast. See the photos, he's got child labor workin for him. :D
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Sorry strick it's not a Seacraft, it's a 1988 26' blackwatch. I'll post some pics on a new thread so i do't hi jack this one. Can't wait to get back to work on it.
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It's been a little while. Here is some of what I've been doing.
On the boat there are lots of annoying little holes to fill in the deck cap and transom. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5868.JPG I took my dremel and bored out a bevel around each and everyone of them. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5865.JPG I took my air blower and blew off all dust and then flushed out all the holes with acetone. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5869.JPG For the ones on the deck cap blue tape with a small piece of wet mat was applied to the underside of the bigger ones and tape only under the smaller ones. I then filled the holes with cabosil in a syringe. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5870.JPG For the ones on the transom a piece of blue tape was applied with light pressure over the holes so the cabosil would not run down and make a mess. If you press the tape too hard you will push the cabosil back into the hole and be left with an indention that you will again have to fair over. The cabosil/resin mixture was mixed thin in order to be able to inject it into the deep holes. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5873.JPG In order to reduce the amount of fairing to the inside of the hull I will be making some fiberglass panels. These panels will be glued to areas in between the gunnel cap supports and anchor locker shown here. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5944.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5945.JPG I've already done some sanding and fairing in these areas to smooth it out in prep for the panels. A 4x8 sheet of melamine will be used for a molding table. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5910.JPG I waxed it with partall paste and coated it with duratec primer. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5911.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5913.JPG Two lyers of 2 ounce matt were then applied over the duratec while it was still a little tacky. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5915.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6065.JPG Action shot :D http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5919.JPG Once cured it was easily broke free from the molding table. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5942.JPG Various templates were made. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5965.JPG Molds for the two panels nearest the bow were made using the outside of the boat as the molding table. The area was taped off and waxed. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6067.JPG Duratec applied http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6069.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6072.JPG Glass over the duratec. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6074.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6076.JPG More to come soon. strick |
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Strick
Again things are looking really sweet on that boat of yours. Keep up the good work and don’t forget the Beer. I had been thinking about making a mold table myself approx 5’ x 7’ to make a glass panel for my T-top. Replacing the Sunbrella fabric one I have now which is starting to look old. BUT I just got a piece of Pro-Tec material in the mail this week which has a great looking finish on both sides for my top. SOOOO looks like I will drop the idea of making a fiberglass one and go with it instead. I figure I would save enough in Beer money to more that off set the cost of Pro-Tech. FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins :D |
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Nice idea with using the sides of the boat as a mold. How did they come out? What are you going to use to glue them in?
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I saw a guy (Joker from the FS forum) taking a mold from the outside of a hull to make the inner liner sides when I visited his shop in Ft. Pierce about 3 years ago.
Very slick move... Its gonna be sweet! |
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Fellowship- what is this stuff you speak of pro-tech? Me no find on Google!
I'll back up a bit. I first used the flat molding table to make some fiberglass panels. The panels were fitted into place in the inner hull sides. However the two most forward panels would not contour to the shape of the hull due to the bow flair in this area, Thats when I decided to pull a part off the forward bow area to use for the two forward areas. Here is were I'm at now. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6066.JPG Staples were used with a cardboard cleat to help facilitate removal. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5970.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5969.JPG Exterior grade Liquid nails.... Thats right I said Liquid Nails (rated for fiberglass use) was used to adhere the panels to the cored sides. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5966.JPG For the two forward sections that I talked about earlier I used a mixture of cabosil and resin to glue the stubborn areas. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6085.JPG A few more shots http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6090.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6094.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6095.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6081.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6007.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6088.JPG Strick |
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That interior looks huge without the inner liner. Nice stuff!
I use a liquid nails like products to put together plywood skiffs up here in the northeast. Stuff works great and sticks real good. Takes a few days to totally cure though. |
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HOOPS I should have said Pro Trim
Here you go. http://www.pro-trim.com/product.asp?ID=56&nPage=3 FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins |
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Thanks Fellowship. Never herd of the stuff but it looks good. Let us know how it works.
Bryan- I still have to pull the all the staples. I've pulled a few out just to see how easy they will come out and they come out easily. I'll pull them all this weekend. Liquid nails is $17.00 a gallon and it took a gallon to glue the panels in place. A lot cheaper then resin and I avoided the PIA of having to mix cabosil. Plus the stuff is more sticky then resin/cabosil. The panels just pressed right in place. It's very solid. Keeping costs down and getting the job done. :D I still will use the panels I pulled off the sides of the boat to fill in the upper most portions that I could not cover with the flat panels. They held their shape OK. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6082.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6097.JPG I needed to get some marks on the panels while they were still on the side of the boat so I would know were to make my cuts. I used a really long 1/8" drill bit and attached it to my handy little angle drill. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6078.JPG drilled some holes from the inside out http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6077.JPG and connected the dots http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6080.JPG The panels did not hurt the outside of the hull in any way other then the little 1/8" holes that I will fill later. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6084.JPG I'll get more done this weekend hopefully. strick |
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Strick, I was thinking the coring and mat you added on the sides would add strength and be eaiser to fair then the woven on the hull. Is there a problem with doing it that way. without the panel?
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Bill- the coring and glass did make the sides of the hull rock solid. However there will still be tons of fairing if you do it that way. This way is much easier, quicker and probably cheaper if you figure all the resin and filler you use when fairing.
strick |
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"I needed to get some marks on the panels while they were still on the side of the boat so I would know were to make my cuts. I used a really long 1/8" drill bit and attached it to my handy little angle drill."
Wow, Great idea. Did you see that somwhere or was it yours. I would have overthought that to the point of making all kinds of transfers and contraptions. Perfect KISS engineering. |
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Another weekly up date. Lots of boring stuff going on. Most of it is not worth posting.
Sanding down thru the gel coat because of the blistering. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6108.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6115.JPG I have a feeling the entire bottom will have to be done in this fashion but I wont be sure till I turn the boat over. I continued to make good use of my fiberglass panels covering anything that is flat. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6119.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6120.JPG I let the fiberglass panels cure for several days before removing the staples shown below. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5970.JPG A pick was used to elevate the staples thus removing them easily. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6102.JPG A word about using the fiberglass panals. Make sure you use LOTS OF GLUE. I had about 4-5 areas toward the bottom of the panels were I did not put enough glue and I got some voids were the panels would push in slightly. I had to drill some small 1/8 inch holes and inject resin into these areas. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6118.JPG If I had this to do over again I would put these panels in while the deck cap is off the boat. It would go much faster. The panels were sanded lightly and cleaned with denatured alcohol. The corners were taped and a small bead of cabosil/microballoons was injected into the corners. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6132.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6134.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6145.JPG After the tape was pulled it left a nice finished corner. The corners will get sanded and then one more bead will be applied. At any rate I'm happy with the way things are going. The panels are solid and the inside of the boat is starting to take shape. Here are a few shots. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6141.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6142.JPG For finishing the tops of the panels under the gunnel the area was sanded and cabosil/microballoons swiped over the area. 1/2 Oz matt will go over this to prevent cracking. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6144.JPG The fish box gel coat had lots of blisters and needed to be sanded. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6148.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6149.JPG Till next time :cool: http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6152.JPG strick |
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What can you say.....AWESOME! Thanks for taking the time to get shots and post them.
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Looking great strick.
Saw them strip the gel on a B31 on Ship Shape using something like this. Too much money for a one time use, but if somebody had one to rent. Looked to go pretty fast. My bil's B20 is going to require that if we ever get to it. http://www.paintshaver.com/marineshaver.html |
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Wait a min. Did you got a New boat shelter? :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/DSCN4453.jpg |
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Yea the 23 is outside it's home collecting lots of dust. I did buy an engine cover for it so the new zuke is taken care of :rolleyes:
Trey- thanks for the cool link. I'm going to call a few rental shops and see if they have anything similar to that tool. I'll be flipping the boat in a couple weeks to get started on the bottom. Burn out has again set in. I think I need to go fishing soon! strick |
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I just let gelcoat shaver go for $475.00. Had I realized it may have been needed here I would have posted it on the for sale forum.
Strick, you are putting it to that hull. That is impressive work. I looked at your photos of the exterior gelcoat removing. I sympathize. I did the same thing to a '68 13' Whaler. I can tell you from experience, remove it all. No matter what you do if you don't take it to bare fiberglass the crazing in the gelcoat will come through. I'm sure you already know this. Keep it up it looks great. Me, I'm adding a bedroom and bath to accomodate my first papoose. |
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STRICK
I didn't start a new thread because after reading this one - you are the person I need to talk to. I have a 1974 23 CC I/O that I need to restore. I know some stuff and I have friends who know a lot more but first and foremost---- How do you get the innerliner and cap off without sawing the thing to death. I've removed the rub rail (about a half million screws) only to find another half million or so holding everything to the the hull - AND- it appears to be just about bonded together with 5250 or some other absurdly strong and dense silicone adhesive. So first step - how do I break it up like you did to the 20 in the pictures at the top of this thread. ANy info will be very appreciated BOB - Patchogue, NY |
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Forgive me, but you should start by explaining why you would want to take the cap off a 23'CC first.
Paul- BayShore,NY |
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Because I want to start at the bottom of the boat - I want to strip it down in the same way that Strick did with the 20. The boat needs work right down to the bottom. I'm pulling the engine - replacing the tank, adding some plumbing - plenty of things for which I need to get to a bare boat starting point - if you can help with advice I'd appreciate it. My friends and I can do glass work, fabrication of parts as we need them, cosmetic and finish work, engine and electrical work etc. I just can't get the darn thing apart
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To gain access to the bilge/stringer system most here have simply cut out the floor. That should give you all the access you need. If I was redoing a 23 thats the way I'd do it. The only reason I completely tore my boat apart was because I did not like the two piece construction. I gotta have toe space. There is a guy "Bonefish" who is doing a great job on his 23cc check it out. http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...=&Number=38534 strick |
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Strick - How was fishing? I thought you were going to the shack tonight.
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beautiful day...no fish...had enough...will work on the 20 today. see you when you get here.
strick |
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Strick
Thanks for the info - that would certainly be a lot easier but I'm worried about sonething. I've owned 2 cc's - a Potter 18 and a later 20. Both were solid boats but of course the Potter was much tougher. I know this is no way to measure the strength of a boat but for the heck of it I've always pounded the side of a boat - when I hit the side of this one (both sides actually) the boat sounded hollow and something was ratteling. I'm afraid something has broken loose oris actually separated or something - have you ever had that experiance and do you think it's something to dig into? Thanks By the way if you want to see a little one (not a SeaCraft) that me and my friends just finished doing minor hull repairs and cosmetic work on got to Noreast.com, then go to "interactive/discussion boards (dropdowns) then party boats and finally look at the thread marlin vi princess Thanks again |
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Thats a nice looking party boat. Plenty of walk around room on that thing. ON the 23's there is space (couple inches) between the liner and hull. That is why it sounds hollow. The cap, hull, and liner are screwed together on the top from the outside. Rub rail goes over the screws. On the Potter built boats the liner is bonded to the tops of the stringers (very wide stringers) with cabosil. That is were you will have problems breaking it free. Not that is undo able but it will be difficult. I was able to break my liner free but I had to do some cutting. On the 20 sf the liner is part of the transom and is bonded wiht cabosil so it would have been in possible to break that apart. So I cut the liner in front of the transom. We then used a come along and lifted the liner out. We actually lifted the boat off the trailer trying to break it free.
To answer your question yes I would try to get to the bottom of what the sound is that you hear but I would try first without removing the liner. I dug out an old thread were a guy called "Salvagefirst" actually did what you are talking about (removing the cap and liner) The pic's are gone now. Finster posted the pics for him so maybe you could pm Finster and see if he still has the pics. Salvagefirsts boat was a tracker boat and his liner was not bonded to the transom and he said it came apart without too much difficulty. Sorry to ramble. Hope I helped some. http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...3&Number=25965 strick |
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PF - Have you done a 23 - if so please PM me with a phone number so I can speak to you
Thanks |
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The weather has warmed up a bit here in California which has helped to speed up the cure rate for fiberglass and I'm taking advantage of that. There has been a lot of fairing and sanding going on especially on the transom. Up till now
I've been making my own fairing compound with the vinylester mixed with cabosil and microballoons. Shot showing the transom and rear gunnel/cap area http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6153.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6154.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6155.JPG This is Tim's fairing block and it can really level an area out fast http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6147.JPG Glass is added over heavily faired areas to prevent future cracking. These areas will get sanded again and faired once more. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6157.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6158.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6159.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6161.JPG More fairing compound is added to the area were the forward deck meets the walls to blend it all together. This area has been faired and glassed once already so this is the second go around. Another layer of glass will go on top of this and then a final detail fairing over that. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6185.JPG I was at a welding supply company the other day picking up some liquid nitrogen that I use for work and happened upon a really cool tool by accident. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6171.JPG The wad of sandpaper has a hole in the middle. It fits over the bit shown. This little guy makes short work of hard to reach areas like tight corners. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6167.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6169.JPG It was time to start thinking about getting the floor looking good so I made a big template out of poster paper. I then cut this template into six smaller templates three for each side. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6164.JPG I laid up two 4x8 flat panel's. There is a layer of 1.5 oz matt and a layer of 1708 over the duratec. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN5942.JPG The templates were traced onto the panel and the parts for the floor were cut out. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6190.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6181.JPG Test fitting the panels http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6191.JPG The entire floor was floated twice with fairing compound and sanded after each floating. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6192.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6189.JPG Once it was smooth and level it was cleaned with denatured alcohol and a layer of 1.5 oz matt was laminated in place. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6193.JPG while the floor was still wet I took my fiberglass panels and coated the down side with a heavy coat of vinylester resin and set them in place. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6195.JPG 3/4 inch MDF is placed on top of the panels and is weighted down with cinder blocks to ensure good even contact. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6196.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6197.JPG I busted my butt trying to get it all down and weighted while everything was still wet and I'll pay for it later tonight when I stiffen up....no jokes please capt chuck ;) I got my order of system three quick fair in the other day. This is a 3 gallon kit so it should last beyond this project. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6198.JPG If you have never used this stuff you should try it. You will never go back to mixing your filler again. It is epoxy based so you can put it over vinylester or epoxy. It's expensive $205 for a 3 gallon kit so I'm using it for finish fairing not for high build type fairing. I put some on the transom and were I made my mods to the rear gunnels. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6203.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6199.JPG As you can see it smooths out like butter. Thats it for now. I'm wooped and going to take the kids out for dinner. :cool: strick |
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You're getting good with those panels. Nice Job!!!!
You should write a book. |
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Keep chuggin' along Strick. I know the whooped feeling. I worked solid from 9am until 10pm yesterday. I only stopped once for a bottle of water. I lost 6 lbs during the day! Needless to say, I'm very thirsty today. Not smart.
I"m going to have to get one of those speed files like Tim has. |
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I'm starting to feel bad for all the neglected animals in Pitsburg CA :D
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Hey...did you move?
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Ring- a tip on the the fairing block. Instead of using regular sandpaper get the stuff for the belt sanders and cut it to fit the fairing block. The belt sandpaper is really tough and lasts forever. Big Mike- yes I moved two towns over to Oakley about 1/2 mile from the river. Yes there are some animals being neglected. Funny you say that. While I was out fishing with my brother on Friday a client had a horse go down. Kinda ruined my day. It's hard for me to take a day off and enjoy myself. :mad: I could not stand it any longer so tonight I removed the cinder blocks and 3/4" mdf from the floor to see how it came out. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6205.JPG You can see in the right side of the pic were I screwed up and cut the panal wrong. That piece in the middle should have been near the stern like the one in the left of the pic. Now I have one more seam to fill. Aside from that everything looks good. The panals stuck down nice and clean. There was only one small area in a corner were I had to inject some resin. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6214.JPG Tomorrow it will be solid too. The seams will get ground out slightly and a layer of glass will be laminated over them. Then they will be faired smooth. strick |
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I tried the panels on my 20 restore i could never get it right (the panels wound up becoming the sides of my livewells) you certainly seemed to of mastered making and installing them! nice work.
How much do you think she will weigh when finished? |
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Thats a good question. I keep telling myself that I'm not putting much more into the boat then I already took out. The fiberglass panels I'm putting in are lighter then the glass from the inner that I took out. The 1/2 inch plywood floor is the same as what I took out. The balsa did not weigh anything at all. A little glass over that. The transom cap should not weight more then the old transom and seats that I removed. I did add some extra glass to the transom itself. There are other factors. The fuel tank is twice as big as the old one. So it's really crap shoot but if I had to guess the boat will weigh between 400-600 pounds more then it did before I started not including added fuel capacity.
All the seams are ground down to accept glass to bridge the seam's http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6215.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6224.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6221.JPG Around the perimeter I ran a very wet bead of cabosil in the seam. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6226.JPG I let this set up a bit then ran 1" tape over the bead and some resin over the tape. It smoothed out really well. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6228.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6229.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6230.JPG It's coming along slowly but surely. This weekend I'll be sanding and fairing the seams to a smooth finish. The transom will be sanded and faired again. Also I hope to get the bilge ready for primer by finishing the work that needs to get done for the fuel tank, Seacock and bilge pump. Strick |
Re: Here We Go Again
A little more progress this weekend.
This is a shot of the front of the fuel compartment. I needed to make a ledge for the fuel hatch to sit on. So I took a 1/2' x 4" wide piece of plywood and 5 minute epoxied it to the underside of the floor. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6231.JPG This next pic shows a little do dad will serve two functions. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6232.JPG This is several pieces of plywood laminated together and glassed to the upper bilge. It will provide support for the fuel hatch and middle piece of floor that I still have to install. Also the fuel tank has a rear flange that will screw into this. Also note the two pads glassed in place in the rear of the bilge. One for the sea cock and one for the bilge pump. The bilge is finally ready for paint so I sanded it one more time and cleaned it really well with denatured alcohol. Bigshrimpin had a bunch of System three epoxy paint left over so I used it to paint the bilge. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6234.JPG shot showing that front fuel hatch support glassed and painted. It's a little sloppy looking but at this point I could care less. Your never going to see it anyway. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6236.JPG looking back http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6237.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6238.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6239.JPG The last piece of flooring can now be added. It is glassed to the transom cap top and bottom. Cinder blocks press down in the fiberglass panel just like I did earlier. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6243.JPG Shot showing all the mess but you get the picture http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6260.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6261.JPG I took some MDF and ripped some 3/4" wide strips. I drew out a 6' x 26 1/4" wide fuel hatch on my molding tale. The MDF strips were then screwed to the outline on the molding table. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6252.JPG Modeling clay was used to make a little radius all the way around the inner edge of the mold. Once I was certain everything was square and flat the mold was waxed with part all paste. And then laid up. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6257.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6259.JPG The first 2 layers are 1.5 ounce matt and then 1 layer of 1708. The corners are reinforced with 1708 tape in the pics above. Once that set up lines are drawn to mark the outside perimeter for the coring. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6263.JPG cabosil paste applied http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6264.JPG Coring added http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6266.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6267.JPG The coring is 1/2 inch scrap plywood that I had laying around. More cabosil paste was used to fill in the gaps between the plywood and then more 1708 added on top of the coring http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6268.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6270.JPG Thats it for now. strick |
Re: Here We Go Again
Looking sharp I really like the fuel hatch
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