Paint combo
 

Just to give you a visual. Just painted mine with the Matterhorn white and whisper grey. Non-skid on the bracket hasn't been done yet. I think it'll look good with a black rub rail.

Looks good! I'd suggest adding rubrail to edge of bracket too! It's pretty easy for bracket to bump into pilings around docks, etc., so some extra protection back there is nice to have!

I pulled the buckets off the deck and i cant believe how strong the deck is. It reminds me of the commercial boats i used to work on.

Gunnel cap, forward bulkhead, anchor locker door and time to start on the rear boxs and engine shroud

Got the bow hatch cut in and partially fitted and put the gunnel cap back on to fit the bow bulkhead

Got the console back in and dry fitting it to the floor

WOW....I bet that was hard to hold up in place. :)

Stupid phone..... Cant figure out how to rotate

Billy, hope you do not mind the repost.....
Twas' getting a little dizzy and it is not even happy hour yet..:rolleyes:

She be looking real good to.

Attachment 8290

Attachment 8291

well I got some things dome on Saturday in the rain, I first wanted to get the top cap secure and I was off by about 3/16" of an inch getting everything lined up so I rounded up some things in my garage and got it out back into place

first I filled the gap between the hull and the floor.

once I got the cap close to being lined up I pinned it in place with sheetrock screws till I went to Fastenal for the ss screws. I counter sunk #8 ss screws all the way around and mixed up some potter putty in a mason bag and filled the gap under the gunnel hull connection

Once I got the cap solidIt was time to attack the rear boxes, First I got my measurements and cut a slot into the top cap for the bulkhead to slid into and lock in.

once I had that cut I made a template of the hullsides to cut the bulkhead.

got the template done and transferred it to the 3/4" divinycell sheet I made. I cut the bulkhead and slid it in to fit.

I put a level across the back of the boat and made sure it was level so I could keep everything square and plumb. A 1' square is your friend here. from here it was just a matter of keeping things even square and balanced on the back of the boat.

Once I had the bulkhead in I had to shape the gunnel cap cut square for the topsides. I kept the top panels 1/8" lower than the rear part of the gunnel cap to give myself some room to glass and fair.

once I felt comfortable with everything, I ground down through the primer on the floor give the fiberglass a good bond to the floor. FYI I absolutely hate fiberglassing upside down inside a box. I used some luan to hold some of the panels in place while I filled and fiberglass things into place.

Once I left the back of the boat to dry it was time to grind in the anchor locker which I was really dreading to do. once I got it dry fitted I layed some mat down to seal it up then I bed it down in potter putty.

did some little things this week while waiting for some more stuff, started mocking up for the engine shroud, this was the first run. Don't like it, to wide and stupid looking. next run will look better, I already started messing with it again to get it right.

I got the hatch cutouts marked out and want to look at them a little bit before I go chopping holes.

I started working on the console a little and got the access door to fit.

one more pic

Consol is looking great

Boat is lookin great

I see you have been busy. Great work as usual. Love the engine shroud idea!

strick

seacraft thank you



well I decided to take a brake from the console and make the engine cowling.

after the third mock up with some 1/2" mdf I finally had something that I liked.

I transferred from the mdf to the 1/2" divinycell panel to cut the pieces. the front panels were easy to cut. it was the side panels that had angles going 2 ways which became a little tricky.

once I had them cut I stuck them in place and use the hot glue gun and 1/8" luan to hold everything in place.

one important thing that I have learned over the years is to make sure the boat is level side to side. it makes measuring and balancing things a lot easier.


once I got the everything stuck in place I loaded up an empty caulk tube and squirted some dynaglass into the joints and stuck a layer of mat and tape to the joints.

I decided to cut the anchor locker door in bow.


one tool that I haven't really talked about is the air saw. it is amazing tool to cut tight holes in awkward places. drill a 1/4" hole and let it rip. I have seen them used in a lot of boat manufactures and I see why.

chuck thanks buddy, just trying to keep up with the master!


had sometime today and was kind of all over the map, filling, grinding , tabbing and fitting

I had a little problem with the livewell fitting in the console. the engine box I used tapered in to much. So I got fitted and made 2 cuts on the front to widen the box by about 1.5" inches. now it fits. So I grinded the edges down inside for some putty to get everything in a final position. I used some luan and sheetrock screws to get everything into position.

alright been messing with the console and its been a a little of a headache. I goofed when I cut the console down so now I am adding an inch back to it and molding another top back on to it with the livewell lid recess built in.

I got the sides glassed back into the console and trimmed them up.

I decided to flip console over and get it secured to the table and gonna laminate from the inside. I cut some mdf and waxed it up and screwed it all the way around. I sealed it up all the way around with the hot glue gun to keep anything from moving.

last one is with the livewell dry fitted to make sure everything fits.

waiting on some more resin......

back from florida and got some other stuff done.

I want to get this console put back together so I built 2 plugs for the console lid. one is 3/16" bigger all the way around. this is the one that gets put down in the mold to laminate over. The other is a template for the acrylic lid I will have made. I used the standard radius tool (WD40 can)

I got the plug for the hatch centered and nailed it down, once this was down I put some radius wax around the plug then on goes the mold release wax, PVA and a coat of Duratec.

tomorrow I will laminate it.

here is a pic of the anchor locker, I also made the mold to make the anchor locker hatch.

also I got the rear access hatches cut in and the rest of engine shroud fitted.

Nice work, man!

well after some laminating with some mat, mat,mat , 1708 it was time to bed the livewell.

I mixed up some potter putty put it in a caulk tube and squirted it around the parimeter of where it sitting I set the livewell and set 2 5 gallon buckets of water on it. I then tabbed it in with a layer of mat and 1708 to make sure it will never flex and separate from the console. I added a support between the livewell and front of the console to stiffen it up a little bit. I let it set over night and it was time to pop it off the table. to see what we had.


you can see the green edge around the outside of the front of the console, I put a big bead around the edge before the first layer of glass so I have an edge that I can radius instead of grinding glass out.


I cut a small hole in the livewell to take a peak in and be able to move it around. I will finish the cut,
I took a pic inside the livewelll to see the potter putty bedded around the edge

I am gonna put a piece of 1" coring under the livewell and build it up so it comes within a 1/8" of the floor so it will support itself.

alright I got the anchor hatch cored with some divinycell to make it strong. I also popped the hatch out of the mold and gonna trim it with the router and diamond blade, I set it for just under 3/4" of an inch so it will sit flush with the bow. yeah I also forgot to prime the mold with duratech, I got moving and it was too late. I will fair it and sand it out.

I will trim it tomorrow outside because its a mess.


I decided to give the motor shroud a haircut on top and trim it in with the angle of the sides .

Well with the bulk of the console work behind me I turned my attention to cutting the fom out of the edges of the back bulkheads and engine shroud. I will back fill these edges with either thickened epoxy or dynaglass. I took multimaster with the round blade that comes In the box that I have never used before and lcut top and bottom of the foam , then I took a long skinny scraper and just started on the ends and knocked it right out. I went in 1/2" on the thinner panels and 3/4" on the thicker panels.

alright didn't have much time after work but I did what I could , I took the anchor hatch outside and ran the router around it and it cut flawlessly. its a screaming nasty mess,but with gloves, tyvek jacket,mask and a fan behind me it wasn't to bad....

I dropped it into place and it looks good, profile is just low enough not to stick above the crown in the bow.

I finished cutting the foam out of the bulkheads.

I then turned my attention to the bow hatch that is original. it was soft in the middle. what amazes me is I cut half the back off and it popped right off. I then spent 20 minutes beating and prying on the other side of the hatch. wihich was dry as a bone after 42 years.....

alright marching forward here , I got the last little bit of mushed balsa out. I can not deal with the rotton nasty water hitting me in the face as I chisel the hatches.

let them dry over night and went to town with the grinder this after noon with the BIG fan behind me and grinded the edging of the hatches down where the coring ended. roughed up the old coring area and cleaned it all up .

cut 2 layers of mat to give the coring a fresh surface to stick to. laminated with a hot shot and cranked the heat in the garage.

after dinner I ripped the coring for the beveled edge. marked them out and mixed up the devilette putty and trawled it on.

bedded it multimaster, and clean up the outside edge and filled all the coring.

I also sprung for new shoes for my girl .

today I started will laminating the flange on the inside of the console. I layed up 2 layers of mat,1 layer of cloth and a layer of 1708.

the second pic is of mold I made to make the fiberglass angle for the front of the console to mount to.


then I turned my attention to the hatches and ran the router around them and trimmed about a 1/8 of the old flange off to get rid of the chips and cracks in the existing.

I got the panels filled back in with a mix of dynaglass and deck putty. I used something new, as I am getting to cheap to buy mason bags from homey cheapo. I saw a guy at the bakery using disposable piping bags. they are exactly the same thing and cheap. I wouldn't try to push potter putty through them but deck putty and dynaglass flowed smoothly through them

http://www.pjpmarketplace.com/polyPI...738&cadevice=c



I decided to mount the electronics on a black gelcoated panel. I marked off an area on the melamine and I sanded it down to 320 and waxed it , I sprayed the gelcoat down and let it kick, then 2 layers of matt dry, 1 layer of mat and 2 layer of 1708, I then added another layer of mat and a layer of stitch mat to stiffen it up.

I popped it off and gonna cut it , wet sand and buff. should look good

then the time had come, it was time to push the boat outside and do some grinding for about 3 hours into the dark. I was as bad as I remembered and if I have to do it again it will be too soon.

it is now done and time to finish the tabbing in all the way around.

next up are scuppers, mounting the console and some sanding.

Where is everyone? Am i boring you with my rebuild???!

We got shanghaied over on the west coast.

Shhhh
I am living vicariously through your rebuild because work is preventing me from getting back to FL and rebuilding my 23. To make up for it, I am quietly ordering parts while my wife thinks I can't do boat stuff from 3000 miles away.
Please keep up the pics 'n I'll keep looking with the room lights dimmed!

ha alright atleast someone is looking at it!!!


alright got the hull to deck tabbed together with a layer of mat and tape.

I then went to work on sanding the console after filling all the holes and seams with dynaglass.

I also shaped the livewell top by hand with the sander. got some more small holes to fill then one last coat of easy fair and it is ready for primer.

I got the electronics panel cut and fitted, do you think a 12" screen is too big?? haha

going with it, it will be awesome. also a icom 304 and a Jensen remote stereo head unit will fit nicely.


go big or go home.......

Don't worry Im taking notes.......