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Nice job, as always. :D
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If the California tree huggers just knew what you were doing over there... :eek: :eek:
Looking good! You are making some good progress. |
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Ha Strick
You got almost 8,000 hits on this thread so far. That got to be a new Record, I don’t think it will be broken for a very long time. Matter of fact I think we should give a award for that. How about calling it the BOAT PORN HEAD PIMP OF THE YEAR award. http://www.gregkucera.com/_images/lo...100trophys.jpg FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins :D :D :D |
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I poped the hatch out of the mold tonight. Here area few pics. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6273.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6274.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6275.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6277.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6278.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6280.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6281.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6283.JPG It's fits perfect and is solid. This is the way I'm going to make hatches from now on. BTW if you are wondering why I did not prime it with duratec like I did the floor it's because I was in a hurry and forgot to. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6282.JPG I left it sit slightly high on purpose. Now all I have to do is grind about 1/4" off the hatch lip so it sits flush with the deck and then I'll prime it. strick |
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Strick, its great you just did that project because I have a hatch I need to build as well. The tank coffin lid on mine was warped and cracked....basically unsalvagable, so I had the idea of making my own.
Once my Grady is back in the water I'll start work on the SC again and thats one of the first projects I plan to tackle. My plan was basically the same as yours, but I was going to put some gelcoat in the mold before hand, but since I'll be painting the boat anyway, it doesn't really matter if I do that. Can you explain how you got those edges so perfect? I know you used clay but can you be more specific? I saw somebody use bondo to create the rounded lip....do you think thats a good idea? Did you use MDF to lay up the tank lip? Thanks in advance...your project is looking great. BTW Otterlycool, this is Alex from Capt. Dan's Capt license class. Remember me? I'm rebuilding a 20 SC right now. Getting the topcap off was no problem...I undid all the screws holding the cap and hull together, cut the adhesive between the hull and cap, and after some persuasion utilizing crow bars she popped right off. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...h/IM000954.jpg That pic is kinda unclear but shows the cap pulled foward. I later got help from a couple guys and we lifted the cap off the boat, placed it on the ground and I recored the cap and put it back on......which required crow bars and jumping on the cap! |
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Strick,
why use the small plywood squares for coring? Why not just use one sheet? Will the small squares create a stiffer panel? |
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Grady- I used some wax based modeling clay called Supersculpy. If you go back a page or two you will see a pic of it. I rolled it into long thin pieces and then pressed the pieces very firmly into the bottom edge around the preimeter of the mold. Then I took a plastic spoon and with very hard pressure ran the spoon several times over the clay keeping the same angle. For lay up I cut 4 small 1 inch squares of cloth and stuck a piece into each corner then I ran some 2" cloth tape around the edge of the mold. I should have taken a pic but did not.
Rich--> when I re did my hatches on my 23 they were all cored with the plywood squares and I thought that was kinda a weird way to core something. With the squares you don't have to worry about a single piece of wood being slightly warped. You get better surface contact with the squares and I do think it is stiffer because of the cabosil between the squares. Also you use less wood and you can cut up your scrap. There is only 1 layer of 1708 on the bottom of this hatch and I can jump up and down with no flex at all in the hatch. strick |
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Rich-
Most production boat builders who build boats with wood cores, use the squares instead of single sheet. As Strick alluded to, the reason is that each little square will adhere better...much more so than one large piece. Another advantage is that if you fully encapsulate each piece in resin, you are less likely to have water creep through the entire coring causing it to rot as is commonly the case with a single piece of wood coring. Finally, the little pieces...mean less wood is thrown out as scrap....which can add up to a lot if you are building a couple of thousand boats a year. -Ed- |
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Don't forget it's easy to store squares in a cardboard box and a hell of a lot easier to move a box of squares than a 4x8 sheet of plywood. I think the resin/cabosil grid prevents delamination and increases stiffness.
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One of my first jobs in the marine industry at Sea Vee Boats Miami FL in the early 80s was reducing 4' x 8' plywood into 5" squares to feed the lamination dept. I was glad when they switched to Divinycell foam core! :D
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I have seen triads used instead of squares because they contour better on surfaces that are not flat. Works good.
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My other first job was trimming and grinding so I don't know what a "Triad" is....... :D
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The worst job I've ever had (not the hardest) was working on the tear off crew for a roofing company. We used to tear off all the old hot tar and gravel roofs. A six foot spade and a pair of leather gloves were the only tools we used. Your boat is coming along nicely BTW :cool: strick |
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More of the same stuff going on this weekend. I have to say I'm getting tired of glass work. The only consolence I give myself was that it was too windy to go fishing anyway so I may as well be working on the boat.
A marathon hatch session: A couple pics showing the molds for the 5 hatches that were left to be fabricated. The two bigger ones will go on the casting deck while the three smaller ones are for the transom cap. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6285.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6286.JPG Pre cutting the coring to fit. The three smaller ones are non weight bearing so they will not get any coring. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6289.JPG This is the modeling compound that I've been using for the radius's. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6290.JPG It has a waxy composition so it smooths out really well and you can prime or just glass over it without it being effected by the resin. I just push it into the corners. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6291.JPG and smooth it out with a spoon and my fingers http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6292.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6293.JPG a shot showing the finished edge http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6294.JPG Once ready the molds were waxed and duratec primer is applied. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6295.JPG While the primer is still a little tacky I start the lay up. I like to take some cloth tape and cut some little squares to put into the corners of the mold. Then tape the rest of the way around. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6299.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6298.JPG Once the edge's and corners are wet out then I start putting down the matt. The mold gets 2-3 layers of matt. Strips of matt are also applied around the mold edges and corners. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6300.JPG Over the matt goes 2 layers of 1708. I let this all set up and then apply the coring. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6301.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6302.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6303.JPG A final layer of 1708 over that http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6304.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6305.JPG The hatches pop out of the mold easily. The modeling compound can be reused. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6308.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6309.JPG checking that everything fits http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6310.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6311.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6317.JPG I've shown these areas before were I faired the area under the gunnel cap were my panels came to an abrupt end. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6144.JPG Today I glassed over the fairing compound to prevent any cracking. It was a royal PIA. I had to mask the entire boat and then laying on my side I put a layer of matt over the filler. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6315.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6318.JPG I'll feel better now knowing that there is glass over these areas. The transom has been faired and sanded over and over again. Today I put a thin coat of primer over it so blemishes will stand out better. It's getting there but there are still a few small spots that need attention. Fairing a transom is a lot like taking a trip into Never Never Land. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6320.JPG were I left off this evening http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6328.JPG strick |
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Nice documentation of the whole process, I'm ichin to try that clay and mold technique.
Being an owner of a 20SF I'm liking the way the casting deck is looking. Being able to stand up next the the edge without stepping on the rod boxes is a nice feture. Nice Job!! |
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Looks great Strick. You are becoming a human hatch making machine. I made a hatch for the big Mako a few weeks back, its not easy work. You just knocked off a whole production of them! Strong.
The boat is coming together rapidly! Keep the steaming ahead in FULL. Once I finish my Mako 21, I have vowed to not take on another major refit project. I've had enough... of listening to crap from my wife about my stupid boats. |
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Strick....is that Duratec primer that you're using in the mold???
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Ringleader you ought to finish a boat first! until then quit yer bitchin [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
Strick- looking very very nice, those hatches are better than some I have seen on new boats. |
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All Ringleader has to say is “Honey I decided to name the boat after you”.
FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins :D :D |
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Good luck Ringleader! I have two daughter 2 and 5 and I get them out on the water as much as I can. Bring them to an Island, let them play in the mud, play with slimy fish, etc. Hopefully you can do the same so she can grow up with those experinces. I will do all I can to fight the "princess" syndrome. Didn't mean to derail the thread, lets go back to Stricks' project. NICE JOB Strick!!! :D :D |
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I named my ArenaCraft after my daughter but I was already divorced so it really did not matter what I did :D I started that project while I was going thru the divorce. It really helped me keep my mind occupied during those tough times. The first pic is the only one I have of the construction. This was back in my glass over wood days. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/arenacraft1.jpg http://www.casdvm.com/photos/My%20Ar...ft/Boat4sm.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/My%20Ar...ft/mybaby1.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/My%20Ar...ft/mybaby2.JPG strick |
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I like the rig your putting her in the water with!!!! (or pulling out of water) Which ever it's Classic!!!!! :D
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At first sight, I thought it was a big azz Caddy or something like that. But looking closer, his tow rig actually looks like a pick-up truck (possibly Dodge) with a big animal vet's traveling hospital box in the bed. Am I correct?
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You Be right. 99 Dodge 3/4 ton with slide in vet pac.
strick |
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where the heck is that old dock at?
It looks like some old dock near the sub base. |
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Oops, too many weeds, must be in the delta?
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Thats funny. I thought it was a 50-60's model wagon of some sort.
BA |
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The old dock is at "the shack" in Suisun Bay.
Mold for anchor locker receiver. My third attempt at getting it right. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6334.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6335.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6337.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6344.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6345.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6348.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6349.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6351.JPG strick |
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Strick = the picaso of seacraft restoration :D
I am going to let you figure everything out before I begin the resto on my 20SF. |
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That is more of a strickcraft now :cool:
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The hatch doesn't look like it will sit flush with the rest of the deck. Is this intentional?
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