Looking good, my boat is also wearing the same plastic skirt. I too will be doing the deck last. Looking forward to seeing yours painted.

Guilty as charged. But once I get the Seafari in the water, I think I'll be trying to get some hours on it before I head back to the shop to work on the Hewes. And I'm pretty sure SWMBO will be ready to spring a fair sized Honey Do list on me by the time I get the 25 wet. So I'll probably take a year off before getting started on it.

I wish there was a Classic Hewes site that's as good as this one. Mine is a '74 and I want to put it back together pretty close to original configuration, but I'll be playing around a little with materials. I'm going to have to find someone with an early '70s Bonefisher that will let me take some measurements.
Dave

Sean,
It's been a while since I checked out your blog. Looking good,man. Think you'll be able to finish it up this year before it gets too cold to work on it?

Dave

My issues with the cuddy were a major setback, but its done. I am going hard and should beat the cold. The topside will be ready for gelcoat in about a week.

You looked at this one?? I don't think they are into the detail of rebuilds like us CSC guys are. You may be able to find someone close to you on this site for references.

http://www.mbcforum.com/

Yep. I found my hull there on the Vintage Hewes forum. But like you say, they don't get into as much detail as we do here. When the time comes, I should be able to find someone who'll let me take some measurements.

This one is sweet:

http://www.mbcforum.com/showtopic.php?tid/30291/tp/1/

Dave

I spent about nine hours today wet sanding the final prime coat by hand. Have I mentioned how much I enjoy sanding? First, I went over every inch of the cap and patched all the pinholes and nicks with glazing compound. Then I sprayed on a guide coat.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3942.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3941.jpg

Nine hours later, it looks almost exactly like it did before I started, except it’s now almost ready for the Awlgrip top coat.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3943.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3944.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3945.jpg

I only have a couple more things to do and I’ll be ready to shoot the top coat.

Dave

Real purdy! Great surface prep = Great finish.

One of the things I wanted to do before I shoot the cap is try out some non-skid on a smaller part so I could get a feel for it and develop a strategy for how I want to do the non-skid on the gunwales and the forward deck. I did the lids to the helm deck cooler and battery box.


Masked:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3946.jpg



Non-skid applied and painted:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3949.jpg


Next, I have to think about layout of deck hardware that will affect where non-skid goes and where it doesn't.

Dave

Nice.

Your shop makes me cry!!!! Everything is looking amazing.

Shiny Bote
 

Well, completed another milestone.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3956.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3958.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3959.jpg

I went with the "classic Seacraft" pattern for the non-skid on the foredeck.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3960.jpg

I know this is not how it was originally, but I wanted non-skid there and using the classic pattern breaks it up so that inconsistencies in the grit don't stand out as much.

It took about eight hours to do all the layout and masking for non-skid on the gunwales, transom cap, and foredeck.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3954.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3953.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3952.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3950.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3955.jpg

I still have to paint the engine cover, the cabin hatch and the flip up thingy, but they still need some more prep. At least now, when I get tired of sanding, I can switch to installing deck hardware.

Dave

Shiney bote!
 

Nice work Dave! That's a good idea on the front deck non-skid area - you're right that it's tough to get a uniform texture. Did you use the Interlux stuff?

Does your bow hatch have a core in it? Mine is pretty flimsy and there isn't even any cloth or roving in it . . . looks like a chopper gun lay up, maybe about 1/16" thick! If I were gonna paint my boat, I think the first thing I'd do is put some sort of core in that hatch to stiffen it. If somebody ever stepped on it, their foot would go right thru it! Denny

Really cooking there...by the time I stop by, instead of talking Seacrafts I should be getting a ride...lol

Denny,
On the non-skid, I'm reinventing the wheel again. The Awlgrip non-skid additive comes in a 1 quart/ 1lb. container for $30+. It can be mixed with the paint and sprayed. I'm guessing they've formulated it to have the same specific gravity as the paint so it will stay in suspension or something. Must be good stuff.

What I used was 80 grit glass bead blasting media. I already had it and I used about 35 cents worth. Rolled on the paint, sprinkled on the 80 grit with a salt shaker, and rolled paint over it. Then I sprayed it as I shot the rest of the boat. Time will tell if it was a dumb move. Right now, it looks pretty good.

The cabin hatch isn't cored, but it's at least an eighth inch thick. With that thickness and the convex shape, it's plenty strong.

Terry,
I must have misunderstood you. I thought you were stopping by THIS Thanksgiving.


I had time this afternoon to put a little boat jewelry on.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3961.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3962.jpg

I needed to put the live well and fish box back in the boat to mark the mounting holes in the deck, so I decide to go ahead and mount the seat pedestals and see how it's gonna look with the seats mounted.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3964.jpg

Dave

nice job it looks great!! that is one nice boat what kind of power do you have going in that boat

Thanks. Power will be a Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI Seacore, 300 hp, closed cooling with a Bravo 1 outdrive.
Dave

Looking good Dave, Keep up the great work on that custom SeaFari 25!

Sir,
With all due respect for your humble demeanor, perhaps you should ask Jason to change your handle to Great Blue Heron.:cool: Nice work, Dave. Thanks for another lesson.

Lookin good!!!

Funny :D

This weekend I painted the engine compartment. Before I did that, I did some patch work on the bilge vent plenums. I had to downsize them a little to get two transom rod holders where I wanted them. Having the engine compartment painted opens the door to mounting of through hulls and other stuff that goes back there. It's nice to have it done.

I also installed the bow cleats, midship cleats, and the rub rail and did trial fits on my rod holders and some shiny new stainless bilge vents.

Dave

Some pics to go with yesterday's post:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3971.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3968.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3969.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3970.jpg

Dave

Oh my....Sweet!

Is the boot stripe painted on or is it tape?

Dave you are hauling on that thing! SS insert on the rub rail? You just had to one up me on the seat boxes!!

strick

Thanks, Rod.

Jim, it's painted.

Chuck,
I haven't figured out what I'm going to do with the insert on the rub rail. It had a red plastic tube in it when I got the boat. Red doesn't go with my color scheme, so I'm not going to re-use it. I don't think stainless will work with this style rub rail.

Dave

Dave, haven't been on in a while but looks great. Any anticipated "splash" date yet?

Dave,

Really looks great. If I remember correctly you are installing a New Mercruiser Sea Core Package.(That is a beautiful package) I am not sure if the mounts and center stringer are the same as the 23, but a friend of mine that just installed the same package in his Sceptre had to make a notch in the center stringer to make room for the oil drain connections (Or for something that was different than the older Mercruiser). You may want to take a close look at the oil pan of the new engine before you try to intsall it and accomodate the changes. I think he had to make a 4" notch.

Good Luck,

Dan

The previous owner of my seafari had to do the same thing when he repowered from twins to a single 350.

Thanks for the kind words, guys.

Dan and Connor, thanks for the heads up on the potential clearance issue. The old motor was a vortec 350 like the new one, but the Mag MPI may have a deeper oil pan. Fortunately, I'm a pack rat, so I still have the old oil pan and I can compare it against the new one. It would have been cause for some creative profanity if I'd discovered the motor didn't fit after I already had it hanging from the gantry crane.

Will,
I've already passed two dates that I'd set for myself as goals. I've decided it makes more sense to work on the boat than to work on a schedule. I've told my fishing buddies I'm pretty sure I can have it ready for our trip to the Keys next June, but I ain't making any guesses beyond that. But I have started categorizing the things I have left to do into "what I gotta do to splash the boat" and "what I can do after". It probably won't have a windshield for the maiden voyage. Wind in my hair (what's left of it) and bugs in my teeth (still got all of those), that's what I'm talkin bout.

Hey according to Strick I have shown no restraint in dropping the 21 in the water without paint and other stuff ...so why should you be any different :D

You got that right! I guess restraint is a lot easier to come by if you can zip through your restoration project in only 9 1/2 months. :rolleyes::D;)

I am so with you on the schedule concept. I am enjoying the process and have plenty of other ways/opportunities to go fishing. It'll be done when its done.

Looking terrific BTW!

Been busy
 

Sean,
I've let the Seafari project take precedence over fishing, but I'm not going to let a push to the finish drive what I do or how I do it. Like you said, the process and the problem solving are half the fun. And I hope to be using this boat, and taking pride in my workmanship, a lot longer than it takes to do the work.

One good thing, though, it seems like once you’ve got the big stuff out of the way, a little effort seems to go a lot farther. I was able to do a bunch of small stuff over the holiday week that really seems to make a difference.

The easiest and least expensive accomplishment was an insert for the rub rail. I used non-photoreactive PVC tubing because I wanted to add a little color:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_4021.jpg

I also got caught up on all the detail parts that needed to be patched, primed, and painted.

Patched:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3981.jpg

Primed:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3982.jpg

Painted:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3983.jpg

The parts are:

The cabin hatch:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_4015.jpg

The “flip up thingy”:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_4016.jpg

The helm extension:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_4017.jpg

And a cover for a chase where my wiring and steering cable will go. It still needs some trimming to fit properly:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_4020.jpg

I also finished up the deck. I wanted to get it out of the way because it was the last painting to be done on the hull itself. I wanted to avoid having to paint the deck after the seat boxes were installed. The fuel tanks and tank hatch have to be in place before the seat boxes can be bolted down. Painting the deck first allowed me to paint the deck with the tank hatch out of the boat. This allowed much easier access to paint the cockpit deck and the helm deck. I could stand in the engine compartment or fuel tank compartment and reach everything with a roller for the first coat, a salt shaker for the non-skid, and a spray gun for the final coats.

The next step was to prime where the paint will go (Awlgrip is way too expensive to be painting under those seat boxes):

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3986.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3987.jpg

After a final sanding and tacking of the primer, I did the layout and masking for the Classic Seacraft non-skid pattern. I’m thinking I should go ahead and buy some 3M stock before they announce earnings for this quarter:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3990.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3991.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_3988.jpg

Next step was to roll on a coat of Awlgrip, sprinkle on some 80 grit non-skid, and peel off the masking tape before spraying on the final coats over both the non-skid strips and the smooth strips in between. It’s kind of difficult to capture the non-skid pattern in pictures when your photography skills are as rudimentary as mine are, but if you look closely you can see it. I’m pleased with the finished product:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_4019.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_4018.jpg


Still lots to do, but it seems like things are moving faster as I reach for the home stretch.


Dave

Faster AND more pleasant. Grinding has been replaced by 220...thank you lord!

Awesome!
 

Looking good, Dave

That non skid turned out great, and looks sharp!

It looks like your anchor locker is bigger than original. If so, good idea. It's hard to get 200' of 1/2" in mine and I would like to have another 100' in there...

It won't be long and you will be cruising that baby. Can't wait for you to get her in so you can start enjoying the ride, and all the hard work you have done, and are doing.

Looking forward to your trim tab reinvention. I know Gramp would be proud that his ideas were considered valuable, and useful, to the Blue Heron Boat Works design staff. :)

Keep up the awesome work!
Brandon

Sean, I definitely share that sentiment.

Brandon, thanks for the kind words. I'm not ready to post on the tabs yet. Still have other things to do before I'm ready to bolt them on.

I pulled my transom assembly down from the shelf and really evaluated it for the first time since I completed the demo of the boat. To make a long story short, it's a complete rebuild except for the trim cylinders. The inner transom plate, gimbal housing, gimbal ring and bell housing were in pretty good shape except for a little corrosion, but I'll be replacing most of the seals, bushings, bearings, etc. Just as an example, here's what the upper swivel pin looks like. It took me about an hour with a punch, a two pound hammer and a propane torch to get it out.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...IMG_4023-1.jpg


The inner transom plate was in good shape, so I didn't have to do anything with it. I spent most of Saturday cleaning up the other aluminum parts and prepping them for paint. I ordered the smallest amount of Signature Finish I could get in Mercury Black. Here's my Mercruiser wind chime after shooting the paint.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_4022.jpg

I'm going to clean up the outdrive this weekend and see if I can get it painted too. I drained the gear lube from it today and it looks good. I think I'll be able to run it as is after I get some paint on it. I ordered all the parts I'll need for the transom assembly and they should be here by the end of the week.

Once I get the transom assembly installed, I'll be able to install the y-pipe and the steering cable. That will give me a better idea of where i can locate the other stuff that has to share space in the engine compartment. If anyone wants to share their experience with do's and don'ts on where to place stuff, I'm open to suggestions.

Dave

Looks great.

Thanks, Rod.

A few more shiny black parts this weekend:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_4035.jpg

Dave