Classic SeaCraft Community - The Cape Cod Crusader

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The 5/8 thru hull was probably originally for the optional galley sink exhaust.

Congrats FishStretcher!

Great boat!

Quote:

Originally Posted by FishStretcher (Post 214186)

The 1-1/4" hose was reduced and put thru a 5/8" thru-hull!:eek:
Oh yeah, and they couldn't be bothered to remove the wood decking they put in the cockpit before splashing it with stain...

What animals would do that! :)

strick

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdavisdb (Post 213866)

Drain holes go right through the balsa. A few of mine had allowed water into the balsa core, with some modest rot. Surprisingly(to me) the deck seemed completely solid from above, lots of glass, I guess. I filled the rotted out balsa with epoxy (it wasn't all that much), filled the holes with epoxy paste and redrilled them. Worked OK, but the hole diameter is a bit small now. Holes at least as big as original, or bigger would be better. One problem with the arrangement, the water drops from the holes straight into the bilge, a loong way from the stern access. Pretty much any solids that drop through with the water are going to be trapped in the hull. Give it time and that will be a lot of crud. Several owners have reported drainage problems, maybe related to inaccessible crud. Screens on the drains would be a good idea.

This is why the deck is stiff with mushy core. This is the piece of deck cut out for starter access in the engine bay by the previous installer. About 0.300" (5/16") laminate, then a 1/2" core of balsa. Wow. This is a 1971, pre OPEC oil embargo. Maybe later boats have less glass and resin?

I am modifying my engine cover to use no hinges- they tear out of the deck. I will use Southco rubber t-handle draw latches with stainless clips. Available on Amazon or Reid supply for less than I paid from McMaster Carr, I think. :eek: I plan on using bits of AZEK (TM) white cellular PVC trim from Home Depot around the sides on the cover side so the metal clip isn't an ankle hazard or deck hazard when the latches are unfastened or the cover is laid on it's side on the deck.

I drilled and tapped some scrap 1/2" thick 5083 aluminum for nut plates. I hate holding onto nylock nuts on one side of the panel when torquing on the other- this is easier and spreads the load. $2.99 assortments of stainless hardware from Harbor Freight (lots of 10-24 screws) finishes it out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FishStretcher (Post 214228)

...About 0.300" (5/16") laminate, then a 1/2" core of balsa. Wow. This is a 1971, pre OPEC oil embargo. Maybe later boats have less glass and resin?

Mine is a '72 and looks about the same. Still pre-embargo, though...

Just a fun fact - 49 of the 80 25' Seafaris were made in '71 and'72.

So for year 1 on the holes in the deck and cockpit sole I am enlarging the screw holes, digging out damp balsa, filling with great stuff expanding foam (just tiny amounts), and capping with water putty/ PC11 epoxy putty. The PC11 is MUCH easier to work with. Like bondo in consistency, not clay. Water putty is too firm, in my opinion.

Then vinylester barrier coat from duratec, then gel coat, then kiwi grip.

Plus nut plates with captive nuts for the 9" base Todd captain and fighting chairs. 6 on a 8.25" bolt circle. Looks like 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 will do.

Plus some Seadek for the engine cover.

I just started putting all the rehab/mods in a separate thread for the boat. Now named Bass Relief. The thread is here:

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=25405

I got some draw latch shrouds roughed in, too. They need finishing, but I got my hands on some scrap AZEK and like it. Not cheap, but convenient. I am still cleaning them up. This is fresh off the coping saw.

With this, nobody loses an achilles tendon to a draw latch.