I added some progress pics to my album on here. Easier to load to album than from 3rd party host. Was wondering if I should add any type of knee to the transom/stringer joint? Or just tab it in to the inner skin transom layup?planned Inner skin layers would be:
original skin,
1 layer 1708 entire transom
tab 2 layers 1708 stringers to transom
2 layers 1708 entire transom
Tab another layer stringer to transom
Last layer 1708 inside stringers to tie in splashwell

I apologize Leland, I’m not knowledgeable enough to answer that. My MA is virtually stock, and my replacement ‘99 transom at 20” is nothing to be proud of. I cannot offer you advice on your transom layup nor addition of “knees”. In race configuration, the knees were added weight. In recreational applications, I would assume strength. But I have learned my next transom rebuild will be 25-27”.

Vezo, Part II

Thanks vezo I guess you are the only one that will communicate with me on here. Disco era master angler owners have to stick together.

It's kinda like an open air bar - folks drift in and out - sometimes they lob comments and sometimes they just watch to see who is gonna say something.
You will get more comments by posting photos in the part of the thread you are talking about instead of separate albums since it is easier for some (like me) to connect the words with the pics.
What resin are you planning on? If its VE 1708 is perfect but if it is epoxy the CSM is not adding much but 'protection' and costing in weight and resin. I didn't really figure that out til I used a lot of epoxy on 1808 and 1708 on my transom.
You might want to run some numbers and figure out how much all that weighs relative to what you tore out.
As far as drains go it really depends on how light you build it and what you hang on it. The original design worked pretty well if it didn't have a lot of extra weight. I am using that on my 23 but going to 1-1/4" tubes.
Vezo is right - build your transom 1-2" taller than your motor and 26 is a good minimum. Knees are useful if there are high loads for some reason - not sure if you have that situation.
Since I don't have a MA I'll just hang out for another happy hour and wait for a few more boat porn pics. :D

Problem with 3rd party is when third party host goes belly up, All good info is lost forever!
When they are here, they are here for as long as this site is.
Use the Yellow Picture icon up top and paste Image address in it to show up here.


http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2985

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2984

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2983

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2982

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2980

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2979

Leland, not to derail your thread but, Old Goat, would you happen to know where there’s an old Pontiac Firebird? 1970-73? Thanks.

Vezo.

Like I always say, "It's not what I know, it's who I know."

Ask the Firebird guys on this forum;
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/index.php

Looks good. I second the VE and 1708 comment. VE is great to work with. Stronger than poly, better protection against water intrusion, doesn’t need to be top layer or have wax added to get it to cure. Also cheaper than epoxy.

I also have issues with the lack of responses on my build. I was thinking that documenting it was a wast of my time.

It goes in spurts. I'm glad I documented mine and glad you and so many others have as well. This site is one of my happy places. Don't stop the pictures, please!

I am getting ready to tie the splashwell back into the transom and hull sides. I am thinking 2 layers of 12 oz biax tabbing on top side and 3 below . Gonna be a pain laying on my back in the bilge.