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Re: Here We Go Again
Anyone else going through withdrawl with the lack of an update from Strick?? :D :D :D
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I like that simple and clean/safer.
KNOT WORKING |
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Sorry. Work has been busy. Progress has been slow. Not much time for words this morning.....just a few pics. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6400.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6404.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6406.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6408.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6410.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6416.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6417.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6418.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6419.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6421.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6422.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6426.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6429.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6436.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6437.JPG strick |
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Strick...what's that bracket going on???? I like the mold....its along the lines of my plan....it the gray on the inside duratec??? Did you epoxy the inside and use PVA??
And last looks like the same 12 degree transom angle as the 23s....that's just amazing!!!!!!!! |
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That's Strick for ya. And yes withdrawl is setting in. |
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Strick did you use the brad nailer on the MDF?
Love the reverse chine on the bracket!! |
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The mold is made of 5/8" mdf. It's stapled together with 1" staples. There is a 13 degree angle front and back which is what Tim and I measured from the boat's transom when we built his bracket. The inside of the mold was coated with iso-polyester resin. Once that dried it was sanded with 220 grit.
I then waxed the mold 4 times with partall paste. You got to let the partall dry (about 10 min) then wipe the mold with a clean rag after each application. This makes it nice and slippery inside. Partall reccommends using a turkish towel to wipe down the mold. I used an old Italian white tee shirt. The gray stuff is a heavy coat of duratec sanding primer. While that was still slightly tacky I began laying down matt. The corners got 2 layers of 4 inch matt tape. Then I started laying down the heavy 2 ounce matt. There is 2 layers of 2 ounce matt over the entire mold including overlapping in the corners. 1708 six inch tape is applied to all the corners first. Then 1708 sheets are applied over the entire mold. There are some good books out there that describe how to lay up a mold. I did not count how many layers of 1708 that I applied. I just kept going till I got the desired thickness I was looking for. 5/16"-3/8" thick all the way around. The corners are about 5/8" thick. I used 5 gallons of resin so far not drop more or less. This weekend I hope to install the transom, stringers, and upper ledge and then I can pop it out of the mold to see what it looks like. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6438.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6441.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6443.JPG strick |
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That thing is really coming together.....that's going to be one awesome boat. Where'd the console come from.....
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The consel came from marine connection in FT Pierce Florida. It's the same as Trayders and Hermco's. I whimped out on building a consel the thought of which at this stage of the game makes me feel like throwing up. I will be building a leaning post/livewell similar to the one on my 23. strick |
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with your skills of making/ulizing molds I see another role of that new MCL console. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
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Nice console choice! I am curious about the chine you added to your bracket?
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That consel fits this boat perfect! I wanted to be able to put in a leaning post-livewell/seat combo like the one I have in the 23 and now I think I can make it fit with this consel. about the chine....my initial thoughts for adding the chine was so it would deflect water downward keeping it from splashing up against the bottom of the swim platform. I am told it may also generate some lift allowing the boat to get up on plane a little faster. I am also wondering if it will create some lift while at rest (the whole self bailing thing) I am hoping that it does not effect the boat in a negative way when turning? What do you think? strick |
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I like the reverse Chine detail. |
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Stick,
Absolute incredible job...you're paying so much attention to detail. And you make it seem easy, although I'm sure it's not. I'm watching closely, there's so much of this same stuff to do to our 21. If you put all this together in a book, I'll buy one! Until then, I'm enjoying watching your progress. |
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Strick,
What's the source for the white, semi-flexible, plastic pipe with the flaired end? Is it just white electrical conduit from one of the big box stores, or is it some other product? |
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Thanks for the nice comments. I really don't know what in the heck I'm doing most of the time...I'm just keeping busy. The plastic pipe was from Home depot plumbing department were they keep the stuff for sinks. The non flanged end fits perfectly into the TH marine scuppers and the flanged end fits perfectly into those large deck drains from West "stick it to me" Marine.
strick |
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More bracket work. Better hurry Tim I'm catching up :D
The transom is made up of 2 pieces of 3/4 inch ply with a 5/8 inch foam in the center. This was cut to fit and cabosiled in place. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6444.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6446.JPG 3 layers of 1708 over the top http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6450.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6452.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6454.JPG The stringers are made of 2 pieces of 5/8 foam glued together. They are tabbed to the flotation chamber and glassed in place. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6458.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6459.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6460.JPG More foam is glassed in place to build a ledge for the swim platform to adhere to. cabosil will be used to bond the swim platform to the flotation chamber. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6463.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6466.JPG The foam ledge will be totally encapsulated in 1708. I need to let the glass set up tonight and tomorrow I will do a little trimming with my grinder and finish covering the ledge. Tomorrow AM this thing gets broke free from the mold so stay tuned!! strick |
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Strick,
You do out-damn-standing work!!!!!! You are the poet emeritis of molded glass! You have had me (and many others I'm sure) memerized with your creativity, resourcefullness and (excuse me) Yankee ingenuity in putting all this together. Kudos, Guy-Just great big giant KUDOS!!! ;) ;) ;) |
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Strick,
Glad to see Rancho Seacraft is buzzing again so I can get my fix of your 20' project! I really like your foam stringers they look like they came out nice and clean. That big rounded edge looks easy to go over. Keep it coming. :D Oh yea and I'd buy the book too! |
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Hey Hermit,
Where do you keep the boat, Stage, Oyster River, Ryder's- where? I used to spend alot of time in town when the Mayflower shop was a real store. :rolleyes: |
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How about in the yard in 400 different pieces :D If I keep learning from strick it will split time between the outer harbor (stage) and Pbay (two mooring theory).
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Strick-Once again, great work. I stand by my original comment from months ago.......
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"Huston we have a problem"
Thanks for the nice comments but I get to remind myself constantly by my screw ups that I'm just a would be wanna be amateur. I spent the better part of 3 hours today cleaning up the bracket from it's unforgiving mold. Some of the MDF from the mold stuck to the part and I had to scrap ot off. For comparison it was like peeling off the label from a bottle. I had to wet the MDF and scrape over and over. The good news is that the bracket is out and looks good. The bad news is I have some sanding and a little quick fair work to do. I've never had such a hard time getting a part to free from a mold. Part of the problem is that I'm always trying something new and trying to cut corners. In the past 2 coats of epoxy and waxing the mold was sufficient. For this mold I put one coat of polyurethane and I don't think that was sufficient to make the mold smooth enough. Or maybe I should have used more part all. I've never tried PVA mold release so for the leaning post I may try that. At any rate here are a few pics as promised. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6487.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6493.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6498.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6505.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6506.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6508.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6509.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6510.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6511.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6512.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6524.JPG strick |
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Chuck I use one of those Preval sprayers to shoot the PVA.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/images/preval267.jpg |
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That is really just amazing.....you just can't wait to see what's next....
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Thanks Bobby. I'll look for one of those sprayers. I still have the LP to build and I don't want to take any chances and go thru that again.
strick |
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Hey Strick, Fast work. I had a problem with a mold before. I most likely forgot to wax it. I had made several parts on it and I'm forgetful. I was getting ready to scrap it then I put some small holes in the bottom of it and pushed in 90 psi.
Worked a little better then I tought. Shot the part about four feet in the air. But it came out without too much scuff and scab. |
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The Bracket and console look great . . . even looks better in person!! I have a feeling that we're not going to have to wait very long to see the finished product.
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Looking good. You deffinitely have alot more free time on your hands than I do. The thought any further work on my project is enough to make me want to puke and mine is small potatoes compared to what you are doing.
How much does the bracket weigh? Oh, BTW... For my coffin mold. I waxed the bare MDF 3 quick coats and then sprayed 2 coats of PVA before the layup. I think there was 2 small spots (maybe 6" square) where the MDF stuck to the part. I spent maybe 1 hour prepping the mold, and that includes drying time for the wax and PVA. http://www.classicmako.com/projects/...s/coffin23.jpg http://www.classicmako.com/projects/...s/coffin24.jpg http://www.classicmako.com/projects/...s/coffin38.jpg For the hatch I built, I just put down 3 coats of wax and went to town. There was no MDF stuck to that part. http://www.classicmako.com/projects/...hatchmold3.jpg http://www.classicmako.com/projects/...atchmold12.jpg |
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I've heard of the air compression trick. I guess thats how the pro's do it. I've got one more mold to build and maybe I'll try it on that one. I'll make sure I have Tim standing by to catch the part on it's way down. :D
Ed- that coffin box for the fuel tank was a big mold! Glad to hear that it worked for you. I've never used the PVA before so if I get you right it's sprayed on after the wax? I think what happened on this one was the duratec must have bled through the wax slightly and stuck to the iso polyurathane. I sanded on the bracket for about 45 minutes this evening after work and it's cleaning up very nicely. Not as bad as I thought it was going to be. I have 4 of the sides looking good. The problem is going to be finding time this week to work on it. I don't know what it weighs but I will get a weight on it at some point. It feels nice and light however. strick |
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Are you still using the vinylester resins for the brackets??
What you think of as your mistakes are still awesome work... :cool: You have the kahunas to jump into it, the persistence to make it right, and the imagination to think of it in the first place. |
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3 coats wax and buff each coat with a rag like your waxing a car then spray 2 coats of PVA allowing each coat to have some dry time. aprox 20 to 30min between coats.
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Thanks Bobby.
The bracket is made with iso-polyester resin. I'm pretty much done with glassing stuff inside the boat. So for making parts I'm using the polyester. There is a lot of sanding, fairing and primering left to do to the boat inside and out. First round of sanding and system 3 for the bracket. I will have to sand one more time and then another smaller round with the system 3 and it will be ready for primer. Hopefully if I get a couple hours this week I might be able to make the mold for the swim platform. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6526.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6528.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6529.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6530.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6531.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6533.JPG strick |
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Do you wet out your mold with ISO before you wax and Duratec?
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strick |
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did you use polyurethane or iso-polyester ? above you said polyurethane, just wondering.
Jeremy |
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Gerbil - It's ISO - Polyester resin . . . from compositesone. It's great resin to work with
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strick |
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Well I would have rather been at the gathering in Florida but since I live 3000 miles away I elected to stay home and grind fiberglass.
Finally got the boat off the trailer. Perry is a client of mine who owns a recking company. Lifting a 20 foot boat off the trailer is easy work for him. We traded services....I did a dental on one of his horses and he lifted the boat onto blocks for me. Now I can get to the bottom. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6541.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6542.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6543.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6544.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6545.JPG The inside of the bracket is coated with white epoxy paint. Note the limber holes in the stringers. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6547.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6549.JPG Mold for swim platform http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6550.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6553.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6554.JPG Two heavy coats of wax and 2 coats of PVA (thanks Bobby for the tip on the Preval sprayer) I was taking no chances this time around. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6555.JPG duratec applied http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6556.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6557.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6559.JPG lay up complete. It has 3 layers of 2 ounce matt and three layers of 1708, The corners and edges are beefed up with more glass. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6560.JPG Foam coring added. It is cabosiled in place and then glassed over with 2 layers of 1708. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6563.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6564.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6565.JPG Proper clothing for grinding fiberglass http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6570.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6574.JPG This thing literally lifted right out of the mold. I did not even have to use a wedge to free it. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6578.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6582.JPG There are some imperfections. I don't know how they got there because the mold was smooth. I'm thinking too much wax. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6586.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6589.JPG Test fit http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6591.JPG cutting off excess glass http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6599.JPG It took several test fits and a little art work on the part with the grinder but we finally got it to fit perfect. A heavy amount of Cabosil is added to all the contact points to ensure a good bond between the two parts. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6602.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6605.JPG Clamps and weight's help to squish everything together. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6612.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6613.JPG I have a litle help on sanding the bottom of the boat. It's not as bad as I thought. There are some areas of blistering but it is not as extensive as I had anticipated. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6621.JPG Cuting a hole for the Armstrong hatch. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6622.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6625.JPG I had to modify the ends of the grabber bar on the hatch so I could get it fit in the hole. I had to do the same thing on the hatch on my 23 3 years ago. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6624.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6627.JPG It fits now http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6626.JPG System 3 quick fair is applied over the blemishes after a good sanding and several acetone baths. I hope to get it mounted by this weekend. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6663.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6664.JPG http://www.casdvm.com/photos/20sf/DSCN6665.JPG strick |
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