Motor is 421# Bracket set back is 24.5"

strick

Yeah strick,
You were right - the Sceptre 20 grows on ya a bit;)

Looks great! Tell us about the change in performance when you raise the zuke. Balance looks really good. WTG, again!:cool:

I think your wood windshield will work out perfect. Painting it white would be a sin after all that work :) We are still himming and hawing on what to do exactly with the 23. Probably will go with some kind of Island live well/bait station seating combo. First we have to fill in the area where the engine hatch was and then go from there. Thinking aquamist for the color since I still have a full quart left over. Maybe a radar arch ?

strick

Beautiful job...as always!

Your workmanship, eye for detail, and wellingness to share inspires us all. (But after 2 rebuilds, I must admit, I get impatient and screw the cosmetics, and if it's safe and functional, I splash it!)

You Sir, is what makes this web site so great!

Soooo.... What's next??

Lloyd

Boats like this are the reason I keep coming back to this site. Well done! I traditionally haven't cared a whole lot for the 20 but now its one of my favorites. Congrats.

Thanks Lloyd and Beaver!

OK so today I finally had time to take the boat out for another test run. I always like to run the boat on the muffs at home for a few minutes just to make sure all systems are go before I trailer it down to the ramp. She was idling fine for a while and then the engine died out. Re started it and it died out once again. Now I'm pissed because I really want to get down to the water and Lisa was looking forward to taking her first ride in this boat.

I started pulling things apart and noticed that the fuel line had some clear silicone gunk inside of it. I'm thinking how in the heck could anything have got past the fuel filter and how did anything get in there in the first place. So I took the brand new fuel line off and got to really looking at it and that's when I found that the the inside of the fuel line was delaminating. There is a plastic like material that lines the inner part of the fuel line and it was coming apart and restricting flow. Note the pictures below.


http://www.casdvm.com/photos/sceptre...i/P2180233.JPG


http://www.casdvm.com/photos/sceptre...i/P2180238.JPG


This is Sierra USCG rated fuel line not more then 3 weeks old. I had originally been looking for the regular old black 3/8 line (teleflex) but WM was out of that so I ended up with this crap. DON'T BUY SIERRA FUEL LINE. So I spent most of the day today tearing out all the calking around the fuel and live well hatches so I could remove them to get to the fuel lines and replace them. Finally by this evening Lisa and I were ready to do another test run. There is less spray now that the engine is up 2 more holes but there is minimal gain in RPM. WOT is still at about 5500 RPM and doing 35 knots. I think I need another prop and since I am not really into propnology I will look to the board for help on this one.

strick

Amen to that. Although I don't have firsthand experience, I had always been told to stay away from their stuff particularly when in it comes to the fuel system. Too much to worry about there to save a few bucks over OEM or better quality stuff. This is one area where it definitely makes sense to spend the coin on the good stuff.

Strick, I wonder if those were Non E-10 rated hoses that were mislabeled as E-10 rated?! If the boat sat for a couple weeks with E-10 gas in the lines, that might be long enough to cause that problem! I'd be inclined to complain to the place I bought them from, as a recall is probably warranted!

My old lines WERE E-10 rated Sierra hose installed in 2006, and never caused any problems, but just to be safe, I replaced everything between tank and engine a couple of years ago with genuine BRP stuff including the primer bulb, because I'd heard of guys blowing powerheads due to lean operation/fuel starvation from restrictions in the line. Now I'm REALLY glad that I replaced them! That can kill any motor, 2 or 4 stroke, but it's especially bad if you're running a pre-mix 2-stroke because you starve the motor for oil as well as gas!

There is a good message here: ANY TIME your motor suddenly loses power, check it out and try pumping the primer bulb before you just give it more throttle! If it speeds up after pumping the bulb, you may have an air leak in the suction side of the system, a weak lift or fuel pump or some sort of restriction, especially if it slows down again after you quit pumping the bulb! If it doesn't clear up and the bulb stays flat, there is a restriction upstream of the bulb. If bulb is hard there is a restriction between bulb and motor. Running a motor hard when it's starving for fuel can ruin your day (as well as the motor!)

Because of that problem, BRP developed special test equipment that a good dealer will use to check out a boat's fuel supply system on all new motor installations before they even run it. This test consists of installing clear tubing with a very sensitive vacuum gage tee'd into it between the boat's fuel line and the motor. They disconnect the fuel line from the HP pump outlet and install another long hose from the pump discharge back into the fuel tank to recirculate fuel. They plug in the laptop, turn the key on (but don't start motor), and then use the laptop to run the HP pump at max flow and look for air leak bubbles in the clear hose while they monitor the vacuum. It must be a VERY high flow rate, because my I-Command gage, which gets fuel flow from the EMM and remembers fuel used, said I had used 14 gallons during the test which only ran for a couple of minutes! The maximum allowable restriction on the E-Tec's during that test is 0.5"Hg vacuum. I eliminated a couple of 90 degree elbows in my system to get the restriction down to 0.35 -0.4" range. Denny

23 ideas
 

Strick,

Here's a couple of pics of a Tsunami I was eyeballing a while back. May give you some ideas for your 23. Personally, I really like the bench seat in the rear.

John

I would think it would be pretty LOUD back there. At least when running on a plane...

True, I was thinking more in terms of kicking back on that bench with a cold one, watching the sun go down on anchor in the bay :) With the bride of course.

There I go again daydreaming. Winter please go away.....

Depends on the motor you're running! I have a similar seat on my boat and have had passengers actually doze off while riding back there! Sure can't complain about the noise from that E-Tec!

Hey strick,
Sorry to hear about the hose. That sucks. Hopefully no goop got to the injectors. Surprised you saw no performance change with the 2 holes. What prop are you running now? What were you running on your other 20? 140 Zukes on both, right? With its 2.59 gear ratio, that motor should be able to swing a lot of prop but the extra 100 lbs 2' back might mean you have to reduce your pitch and get more surface area; and reduce cupping and rake to raise the rear end some. Don't know what you have, so I'm speculating here.

I think Denny is running a 15x15 ELE4 from PT Props. Logic suggests a strong stern-lifter is in order. I think the zuke is a smaller diameter gear case but maybe something similar in 14x17 would get you up to that desired 6200 rpm WOT. 35 kts ain't bad, though. Maybe get to 37 or 38 knots with another 5 or 600 rpm, IDK... I thought someone else on here had a bracket mounted zuke 140 on their 20'. Maybe they'll chime in...

Good luck Chuck,
Gillie

Our 23 has the teak transom door and '96 Johnson, and I've had my friend fall asleep laying across the back deck there. Not really sure how he managed it, because that's a very loud motor!

My experience with a DF140 on my bracketed 20SF is 19 pitch would be a good starting point. I have a Solas Amita 4 13.75X19P on it right now, with a light load, 6200rpm and 36kts/41mph. I also had a Powertech PTR 3 blade SS 13.5x18P, my motor was too low, but it still would turn 6300. I raised the motor and had it repitched to 19P, still turns 6300 rpm.

Strick, you have a PM.

Thaks fellas for the tips. They refunded me the price on the fuel line and pulled it off their shelves and said they would contact Sierra. Doubt they really will.

Denny I was thinking the same as you that the ethanol could have been a problem. We have all ethanol gas here in calif to my knowledge. So that stuff should not be on their shelves if thats the case. When I told my boat mechanic buddy what had happened he asked if I was using the quote "gray sierra crap fuel line" and I said YES. I asked him if he had ever seen that before and he said no but he stated that the inside of the fuel line typically turns yellow and looks like it is breaking down. I thought I'd post my experience just so someone else can avoid that same problem.

Gillie the prop on the little 130 yamaha (yellow boat) has no markings that I can see it is painted over several times. Looks like a 13x 18 or 19 if I had to guess. Wanna go 4 blade on the blue boat.

I have a 14x21 on the blue boat right now so I think I will go down in diameter and pitch and switch to a 4 blade. Solas 13.75x19 on order! Thanks Lloyd for the offer!

strick

It's been a few months. Work has finally slowed to a more reasonable pace so I have had some time to work on the little 20 secptre. I am finally getting it dialed in. I went to a 4 blade solas prop per Capt Lloyds advice and now I'm turning a shade over 5800 rpm and hitting about 38 knots. The boat cruises nicely at 28-30 knots. I am still getting a little more spray then I like. The motor is as high as it will go. If you remember the dimensions of this tub it is 48" wide and I designed it for max flotation and it is providing just that. It is mounted 2.5 inches above the keel of the boat so in retrospect I probably should have mounted it 3.5" above the keel and I would be getting less spray when on plane. When running I have to trim the motor up quite a bit to reduce the spray. It is not really that big a deal....there is a trade off for everything. I have a couple ideas I'm going to try in the next couple weeks.

There have been a few small mechanical issues that I have had to deal with, the bad fuel line and then some dirty fuel that clogged the fuel filters, Next was a stuck thermostat that made the over heat alarm go off. So I have replaced the thermostat, water pump impeller, high pressure and low pressure fuel filters the internal zinks and now the motor is now running flawless.

Oh and I had a new top built also :)


1"pipe throughout. It's sturdy as heck! Here are a few pictures.



http://www.casdvm.com/photos/sceptre...i/P6220330.JPG

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http://www.casdvm.com/photos/sceptre...i/P6220344.JPG

I forgot to say about the Minn Kota Rip tide 80 with I pilot is AMAZING! with the push of a button it will hold your position.


http://www.casdvm.com/photos/sceptre...i/P6220346.JPG

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strick

Good look'n ride you got there. You must've "touched up" a boat or two before.

:D

One sexy bote! Still working on my scepter 20 but been slow due to all-star baseball season with the boy.

Is that a flush/pop-up cleat you have on the bow for the electric motor strap ?

Strick,
Looks like a brand new boat. Just beautiful.
Dave

The boat looks sweet! I'm glad the Solas prop worked for you.

Is the spray coming from the tub or the foot of the motor. I couldn't get my motor high enough due to my bracket being too low, so I added a 4" manual jack plate. I have it dialed in good now:D My bracket has a 26" setback, plus 4" for the jack plate puts me at 30" setback. My best measurement puts the A/V plate 4.25" above the keel.

I have a dol-fin mounted on my A/V plate. When I'm running, I can see the dol-fin is above the main flow of water, but there is lots of spray coming from the leading edge of the lower unit. Is this just a characteristic of these motors mounted on a bracket? BTW, my tub is about 1" above the flow of water.

Your performance #'s look good, so don't a little spray drive you crazy;)

Enjoy your boat:)

Lloyd

Wow, you sure do nice work!!!

Congrats!

Thanks fellas. The tie down for the trolling motor is not a pop up cleat but that would have been a good idea had I thought of it. I measured the bracket tonight and it's 2 3/4" above the bottom of the boat. I have a 24" set back. I may have to go with a jack plate as the spray is coming from the lower unit. Trimming the motor all the way up definitely reduces a lot of the spray but it's still a little too much for my liking. My A/V plate is only 2 inches above the keel and the motor is as high as it will go so I think I'm going to have to go the jack plate route. I like how the bracket is providing flotation but in retrospect I should have mounted it a little higher. The boat does not porpoise very much even when the motor is trimmed all the way up probably due to the fact that I've got 3 batteries, trolling motor a 3 bank battery charger and gear in the forward storage areas. Overall I'm pretty happy with it. She rides like a smooth tank for such a little boat. And she's turning lots of heads....... almost as much as my yellow 20sf did :)

strick

Strick,
Pretty much everything you have said is whats is happening to me.
I have the spray down, it only happens when getting on plane and at slower speeds.
Porposing is minimal, boat like's trim tabs.
I still have some more dialing in to do to be totally happy.
:-(

"Almost." :p :D

Lets face it Paul...... there is something sexy about a center consel boat with a nice round butt. :)

strick

I'm with ya, Chuck. I'm an ass man, too. Hell, I like it all. But I do love a nice, round backside. IIRC, your yellow boat has a SWEET ass. :D

One test ride since since my last post. The se sport 300 is a fairly aggressive hydrofoil. Dropped my top end by about 4 knots. So my max is about 34 knots right now. Might be a little too aggressive for my 20 although I am happy with it on my 25 seafari. Not sure if I'm going to keep it on the boat or not. I would highly recommend a short jack plate if you are putting a bracket on a boat. It allows you to mount the bracket as low as possible and then adjust the motor height as needed. having fun fishing and learning how to get pictures from my phone on to the computer. I need a hair cut...and maybe a dye job :)

strick

Hey Chuck,

Forget the dye, but I think you need them ALL cut!!! BL

Nice non-native stri-ped bass there, Chuck! :p

Awesome job Strick. It looks like you found a hawes pipe for the anchor rode that is flush mounted. I have only been able to find out that sits up about 1" proud of the deck. Where did you find that?

Also, did you have the frame around the windshield powder coated?

Why can't I see all pictures? I only see the ones that say images attached. Please help.

What size and type of battery cable did you use to move batteries up front? I'm planning to do the same on mine. Great job and love that Bimini set up.