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-   -   Trailer rash repair (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=27994)

Drippin Wett 05-28-2016 01:20 PM

Trailer rash repair
 
Hey y'all. I am looking for suggestions and materials to repair some trailer rash on my 06 SeaCraft. My biggest fear is water getting in and separating the glass. I have added forward bunks to the trailer in hopes this will never happen again. It's not hitting now, it was like this when I got the boat.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...02164BC3_5.jpg

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...A0D658E4_5.jpg

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...AF4CDEAA_4.jpg

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...E863E9A1_4.jpg

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...72BBB2ED_4.jpg

I don't have a lot of fiberglass experience and will pay for repairs if necessary, but really enjoy the "do it yourself projects " and learning. The boat shop down the road didn't want to repair it; they wanted to glue a keel guard on it. While I know they have their place, I'm not wild about them. I appreciate any advice. Thanks!

Capt Chuck 05-28-2016 05:40 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I would dump that forward V/PVC guide and go with a pair of forward bunks. You can raise them enough to get that keel off those forward cross members. Added small 1" starboard pieces adhered to those cross members for protection.
Also notice I made a custom "V" Center Transom Rest Bunk that forces the stern to settle in perfectly each time.

any questions PM me

Capt Terry 05-28-2016 06:04 PM

Trailer Rash Avoidance
 
Thanks, Capt Chuck. I love my Hitchhiker tandem axle that I bought in 1979 because it avoids the trailer rash than I was getting with the previous trailer. However, I like your idea of the forward bunks as they would start guiding the bow sooner. Things go well unless my driver is coming on too hot and tries reverse to slow down; although the boat stays within the perimeter of the trailer, it goes misaligned at the bow requiring me to grab it to straighten it out. I will consider a modification.

Drippin Wett 05-28-2016 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt Chuck (Post 244158)
I would dump that forward V/PVC guide and go with a pair of forward bunks. You can raise them enough to get that keel off those forward cross members. Added small 1" starboard pieces adhered to those cross members for protection.
Also notice I made a custom "V" Center Transom Rest Bunk that forces the stern to settle in perfectly each time.

any questions PM me

Thanks for the response. I have already added forward bunks and she is plenty free and clear of the cross supports now. Those are old pictures before the trailer mod. The forward bunks I have now block me from being able to get a picture of the repairs I want to make on the boat.

uncleboo 05-31-2016 10:54 AM

Soooo.... back to the question of the repair 'cuz I got the same issue. I did the trailer upgrades mentioned last year so I stopped the cause. Just need to repair and interested in the suggestions.

Old'sCool 05-31-2016 11:59 AM

Bobby at G-Crafts in Awendaw did my glass and I've been happy.

Tiny 06-03-2016 02:13 AM

Might be ugly but it doesn't look that deep, or structural. I've seen a few of the older ones where it's worn straight through to the keelson. At that point you have to dry them out good then grind back some and lay on some heavy roving layered up. It's easiest to do building it backwards...meaning take a large piece and wet it out, then a piece an inch or so smaller in diameter, then another an inch or so smaller, so it winds up looking like a hill on a topographical map...then apply the whole patch to the hull. Maybe 4-6 layers. Then some gelcoat then go fishing. But what do I know my boats 40 years old ;-). Pretty she aint, but she runs out well.

Drippin Wett 06-06-2016 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tiny (Post 244265)
Might be ugly but it doesn't look that deep, or structural. I've seen a few of the older ones where it's worn straight through to the keelson. At that point you have to dry them out good then grind back some and lay on some heavy roving layered up. It's easiest to do building it backwards...meaning take a large piece and wet it out, then a piece an inch or so smaller in diameter, then another an inch or so smaller, so it winds up looking like a hill on a topographical map...then apply the whole patch to the hull. Maybe 4-6 layers. Then some gelcoat then go fishing. But what do I know my boats 40 years old ;-). Pretty she aint, but she runs out well.

Thanks for the response Tiny. I think I'm going to wait til the winter and try your approach. Would you just buy a repair kit? Or would you think I would be better off resourcing a particular fiberglass and resin?

Capt Chuck 06-06-2016 11:08 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Drippin Wett (Post 244350)
Thanks for the response Tiny. I think I'm going to wait til the winter and try your approach. Would you just buy a repair kit? Or would you think I would be better off resourcing a particular fiberglass and resin?

It appears not structual as mentioned above. Therefore, I would try this simple inexpensive repair first.
Try this 2-part Epoxy @ 50/50 mix.

http://fiberglasssupplydepot.com/Fas...-Compound.html

Clean the area first with acetone. Use the mix and spread with putty knife. It hardens and sands like your gel coat / fiberglass. Most likely, you will need a 2ND application after the first sanding to get it smooth. Use 150 grit then 220 then 400. Dries white and can be topped off with paint. Easier than laying glass upside down :eek:

Tiny 06-10-2016 08:02 PM

fas-stone fasco is awesome stuff! For sure. I just love that stuff.


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