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striper56 06-18-2017 03:48 PM

Constantly Burning out bow light
 
I have a new Perko bow light that is constantly burning out the bulb if I leave it on for a long period of time. 5-6 Hours. Where should I start for fix the problem? Thanks for your help.

db3155 06-18-2017 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by striper56 (Post 252030)
I have a new Perko bow light that is constantly burning out the bulb if I leave it on for a long period of time. 5-6 Hours. Where should I start for fix the problem? Thanks for your help.

you have the wrong bulb.

NoBones 06-18-2017 08:26 PM

Weak ground or hot wire, to much resistance on the bulb...
12 volts, is 12 volts !!!
Would burn out if it were a 6 volt bulb..

striper56 06-18-2017 08:43 PM

how do I fix a weak ground or hot wire?
thanks Ken

NoBones 06-18-2017 09:25 PM

You have a poor connection or a bad spot in the wire that runs from the ground
or from the hot that comes from the switch..
Check and re-do all connections IE: switch and splice from wire harness
to the Perko !! NO butt splice !! Only solder and heat shrink for your
connections.

Basketcase 06-19-2017 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoBones (Post 252036)
You have a poor connection or a bad spot in the wire that runs from the ground
or from the hot that comes from the switch..
Check and re-do all connections IE: switch and splice from wire harness
to the Perko !! NO butt splice !! Only solder and heat shrink for your
connections.

I'm trying to wrap my head around this and I can't figure this out. A poor connection in the circuit will lower the voltage on the circuit, yes? How would that blow the bulb?

I too solder and shrink tube all connections but if you do, you need to make sure they are properly supported afterwards or you may end up with wires that break right where the solder ends due to the constant movement of being on a boat. I like the adhesive wall shrink tube. If you must crimp, use high quality connectors and a good crimp tool. Most people don't own a real crimp tool, and a soldering iron is much cheaper.

Edited because one of my statements made absolutely no sense.

striper56 06-19-2017 03:51 PM

Thanks for the info NoBones and Basketcase. I will redo the connections as described and check the wiring for any defects.
Thanks

NoBones 06-19-2017 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Basketcase (Post 252051)
I'm trying to wrap my head around this and I can't figure this out. A poor connection in the circuit will lower the voltage on the circuit, yes? How would that blow the bulb? I could see maybe a short after the bulb might cause it to act like a fuse but just a loose/corroded connection?

Very simple, that poor bulb is starving for the proper current for it
to function properly !! If there is a lack in carrying capacity in the wiring
system the bulb gives out prematurely ...

My electrical engineering degree from the early 70's still stands.. :cool:

Basketcase 06-20-2017 08:22 AM

I do NOT have an electrical engineering degree, so I clearly don't have the background that you do. I would like to understand this because I find it interesting. I know my way around a fluke, and did 12v electrical work for 15 years and this never came up before. What exactly is it that happens to the bulb that kills it? I would not think lower current capacity of the circuit would cause MORE heat to the bulb. I would think less, which would extend the life of the bulb. Yes?

FLexpat 06-20-2017 08:53 AM

I'd use an LED bulb instead of incandescent (filament type). Incandescent bulbs can get pretty hot in small metal enclosures without any ventilation.


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