Using a Molding Table
 

What do you guys think??

http://www.classicseacraft.com/Moldingtable.htm

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Trayder,
Nice job. It's very easy to follow, and seems easy to do. I've haven't had the need to do this type of work yet, but if I do, this page will be of tremendous help.

BTW - did you make the rod racks in the background? If so, what did you use? Speaking of rod racks, do the ones you bought from Bass Pro Shops hold only 2 rods?

Scott

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Great post. My knowledge of fiberglass work keeps growing and growing. I would like to see a page 3 though. Now that you have the flat pannels, how do you make them into a square box and fill in the corners where they join? Let's see more pix of your project, too. Thanks again for a incredable, fabulous, fun site. My 23' cc thanks you from the bottom of her heart.

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

I am working on the end result as we speak I will try to post a pic this eve

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Trayder,

I like your post. I have a 5'x12' table that use the same way that you do. I make my own "skins" for my custom hard tops I build. One thing I notice that may help you out is that you can let the gelcoat cure fully before putting your matt down. This way you can place the matt neater and then pour the resin on and roll in with a 9" roller made for glue. This will cut down on the time need to wet out the matt and cut down on air entrapment along with stopping any matt though. The resin reacts with the gel causing a melting type action thus bonding the two. Also you may want to ad that the gel should be around 22mils thick to keep from causing wrinkling of the gel.

Don
Pipe Dreams Marine
www.pipedreamsmarine.com

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

HEY TRADER,
HOW'S ABOUT SOME FREE AIR FARE TO SUNNY SOUTH FLORIDA. [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img] ME AND SOME PAL'S,WHO ARN'T GOOD AT THIS GLASS-N-RESIN STUFF,THINK WE WOULD DO MUCH BETTER WITH SUPERVISION [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] . I NOTICED YOU MANAGED TO GET THE ICE BOX IN EVERY PICTURE,,,LET ME GUESS,,,,MICHELOB'S AT 38 DEGREE'S IN THE FRIDGE,AND A GOOD SUPPLY OF RIGGED BAIT IN THE FREEZER [img]images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] . O YEA,I ALMOST FORGOT,DID I SEE DUST ON THOSE NICE TROLLING ROD'S? BRING THOSE WITH YOU WHEN YOU COME DOWN,,YOU KNOW?,TO CLEAN THE DUST OFF THEM? ACTUALLY,THAT RACK ALMOST LOOK'S TOO FULL AND YOU WOULDN'T WANT THEM TOO GET IN YOUR WAY OR ANYTHING. JEEZ,I THINK I KNOW A GUY WHO KNOW'S SOMEONE WITH A BROTHER WHO HAS A PAL THAT'S GOT A BUDDY WHO GO'S FISHIN THAT WOULD BUY THOSE OFF YA [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] ! ALL KIDDING ASIDE,I STILL HAVEN'T GOT MY HAND'S ON THE PRODJECT 23CC I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR,BUT I'VE GOT A LOT OF TIPS/KNOWLEDGE FROM THIS THREAD,AND I'LD LIKE TO SAY THANK'S IN ADVANCE TO YOU TRAYDER,AND THE REST OF THE "CREW" THAT KEEP'S CRAMIN THE INFO INTO THIS SITE. TIGHT LINE'S TO ALL,,,I THINK I HERE A COLD MICHELOB DEMANDING IT'S RELEASE FROM THE FRIDGE,,,,GOTTA GO.....
LT DAN

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

LT Dan-

You tell me when and where and I am there!!

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Scott M-

I made the rod racks using 2x4s and 2 inch PVC. I put two sections of 2x4's on the bottom and then a row of 2 inch sections of PVC up top. The butt of the rod goes throgh a hole drilled in the first 2x4 and then stops against the second 2x4 while the rod section is fit in a slot cut into the side of the PVC and then gravity does the rest.

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

hey, hey, hey...Trayder - you promised you'd bring the rigs to my house first!...there's some mich. light in my fridege.

nice work. looks like you cleared out the space....

It will be real neat to see how you put those sheets into the form of livewell.

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Trayder - excellent article! Answered a few questions stirring in the tiny mind of mine... I also want to echo what LT said - even though no 23 is torn apart in the driveway - I'm better prepared and have learned a lot from all of you - thanks http://www.striped-bass.com/vbulleti...iggthumpup.gif !

You know - it's a tough call, but 38 degree Michs after a flight to 80 degre FLA, or 41 degree Blueberry Blondes at Coddingtons on a 38 degree, howlin' Noreaster - hmmmm, what to do, what to do...

[ November 22, 2002, 08:55 AM: Message edited by: John R ]

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

For those of you that live in Florida there is a place called L.A. Marine Inc. in Fort Lauderdale 954-791-2552 that make and sell 4’x 8’ fiberglass panels in 4 different
thick nesses from 1/16 to ¼” the cost goes from $108.00 to $259.00 per panel. They are white gel coated on one side and glass and resin on the other. When I re did my boat I considered making some panels as well but ended up using some of the old decking and the old live well to fabricate any needed sheets of glass. Some times you can salvage some really good material from marine boat builders and repair guys that are just going to throw scrap stuff away.
Fellow-ship [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Trayder, I hope you will continue to post pics of your project. They are very helpful! Keep up the good work

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Some more pictures:

http://www.classicseacraft.com/Seacraftpage9.htm

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Truely awesome craftsmanship. You really take your time and do things right. The entire project is so professional. One comment though. I saw your livewell is not exactly oval in one corner. Was that the expanding foam that pushed it in? If so, you may consider removing that foam in the one corner, filling the livewell with water for support and then refoaming. What type of foam did you use? Did you consider sealing the foam completely with a polyester mixture?

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Capt. Brian-

Tx. for the words. Great Idea with the water, I never thought of that. Probably should have. Yes, the expanding foam is some strong stuff. It did push the livewell in roughly 1/2 an inch in the forward section of the forward livewell. What happened was, I put too much foam in at one time. I learned my lesson and slowly filled the remaining voids with no issues.

Because the front of the livewell will not be visable when the deck is on I have chosen to leave it be. It looks much worse in the picture than in real.

The foam will be covered with Epoxy before the deck goes on to assure water retardation. Side note: if water ever got the foam I will have bigger problems then soggy foam. For water to reach the foam water would have to travel through the fiberglass that will be holding the bottom of the deck to the inside of the livewell. I am planing on making both livewells entities to their own sorounding them with fiberglass and fillers. I can not have water escaping the well and going into the areas to the sides of the well, which include the fuel tank cavity.

As for the type of foam? Hmmm. Good question, it is a two part expandable closed cell foam, I purchased it from my fiberglass supplier. It is said to be impenatrable by water. It is very hard stuff, hence my desire to leave the pushed in section alone.

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Trayder,

Just a thought.... the whole job looks great, but have you tried to pull one of your shift cables though your rigging tubes yet? [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] I know some Morse cables have long fixed leads and they don't bend well. I've seen this happen too many times.. Just a thought..

Don Battin
Pipe Dreams Marine

Re: Using a Molding Table
 

Tx for the heads up Pipedreams, all is well. Same set up works on my other boat so I am assuming it will work here.