Loose center console
 

I have a 1986 center console with a T-top and noticed last time out the console moves in it's footprint on the floor and the fastening screws backed themselves out of the floor.Upon further investigation almost all the mounting holes in the deck have been egged out from the screws moving over time.I've got a few ideas on how to fix this but would like to hear some input to see if anyone has any creative fixes to this--thanks [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

Re: Loose center console
 

Ha Bottomline
The center consol was screwed with sheet metal screws into the deck through little 3” x 3” plywood blocks approx ½ thick (lamination). Over time the wood rots and with the added pressure of the t-top swinging back and forth the rotted wood can no longer support the C.C. and the T-Top. My approach is always “When In Doubt Cut It Out”. I would remove the C.C. and T-Top then remove the top layer of glass replace the deck lamination (I would only use Plywood in that area) and then replace the top layer of deck glass.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

Re: Loose center console
 

Thanks for the input,unfortunately with the season so short here in Ma. I don't have the time to get into that right now-coupled with the fact I have a brand new outboard that needs some running.I came up with the idea of drilling out the old holes and refilling them and taking a piece of aluminum and using it as a backing plate under the floor on the corners.I have also been told to use 5200 adhesive to run a bead around the perimeter of the console?

Re: Loose center console
 

Take t-top off for this season. Fix the console and add the t-top back this winter. A t-top coming loose could really cause some major bodily injury.

Re: Loose center console
 

Before I had my T-Top installed, I remounted my console.

Prior to pulling it up I drilled out the mouting holes to accept. no. 12 stainless machine screws. The screws that came out were no. 10s and some of the holes were stripped. I pulled up the console and cleaned all of the old silicon sealer from the console base and deck. When I set the console back down, I bed it in a thick bead of 4200. I put a nice finishing washer on each new screw and sealed them with 2400 as well. Then I ran a bead of 4200 around the base and smoothed it out for a nice finished look. That thing ain't never movin'...unless I really, really, really want it to!!!! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Re: Loose center console
 

5200 is a tremdous commitment, i would go with something a little less aggressive.

Re: Loose center console
 

Had the same problem on my 20 cc, the console is very large for this boat, removed all the screws and sanded the bottom of the console to 2.5" above the deck, then built it up with layers of cloth amd matt fiberglass, taped the deck so as not to glass to the deck, sanded this a bit and installed a base of 1/4" starboard pplastic and a 1" lip at the base, re-drilled the screws in new positions with 5200 and its held great for over 9years, if you are ambitious, you can install an alum angle inside the console, similar to the newer seacrafts , this will give you a "new" area for the screws to grab on to. Good luck!!

Re: Loose center console
 

Brian,what is the difference between 5200 and 4200 and how permenant is it?

Re: Loose center console
 

5200 is REALLY tough to remove once its set up. Both 4200 and 5200 can be used in similar applications, but in the case of your console where you may need to remove it in the future, 4200 is a better choice since it is "less permanent". For anything under water, I'd opt for 5200, but inside the boat, 4200 will suffice.

Re: Loose center console
 

I would have drilled out the old holes but the screws I pulled out I believe are 1/4" Do they make stainless screws bigger than that? I guess I'll have to fill in the old holes.Any special way to do this?

Re: Loose center console
 

Scott nailed it on the 5200 vs. 4200 thing. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

You said above that you have room to access the underside of your deck, right? So, drill the holes out and fill them with thickened epoxy. Then redrill and thru bolt the console and use large fender washers on the underside of the deck and lock nuts w/ the nylon inserts (seal each screw/bolt w/ 4200). Then run a bead of 4200 around the base to seal it off.

Re: Loose center console
 

Here's where I'm at,Ihave the console proped up and have looked at all the holes.About 90% are in tough shape.They got a little damp last sunday in the rain.I took a nail and bent over the tip and cut the head off and used it as a drill to scrape out the holes and under the deck.I have 2 aluminum plates 3" x7" to catch the back corners of the console as a backing plate.I need to cut in a circular access hatch in front of the console to get at the two front corners which will also have 2 plates put in.I have to wait for the holes to dry a little before filling them.then I will do all the 4200 stuff as needed.The problem is the T-top is mounted to the console only and not to the floor which creates a lot of stress on the console and the screws holding it down.

Re: Loose center console
 

Here is how I had the consel attached to my last boat. You wont get it any stronger then this. However I realize that this method is not going to work in every boat because the consel must allign up close to the stringers under the deck. There are L brackets bolted to the consel/floor and stringers. Sorry for the big picture I still have not figured out how to edit them smaller [img]/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]

Strick

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/ultimate%20consel.jpg

Re: Loose center console
 

Can't argue with you on that one! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Re: Loose center console - Screw Size???
 

What size screws (lenth & width) are most of you using to hold your conventional consoles onto the deck of your 23' SF's?

Re: Loose center console - Screw Size???
 

my console is glassed to the floor - no wiggle at all [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

kind of hard to describe short of drawing a photo like Strick did, but here is a photo of two "ribs" glassed to my floor that are about 2" tall. They are right at the inner width of the console running the length (fore-to-aft) on both the port and starboard side of the console. The console is then glassed to these ribs from the inside. If/when the console needs to come off, you only have to cut along where the mat transitions from the top of these little ribs to where the mat makes contact with the console and not into the floor. No screws to back out, no rust concerns, etc. After the console was glassed down, a thin bead of 5200 was run along the entire outer perimeter where the console meets the floor just like you'd calk a bathtub.

Not right for everyone, but I went though the loose-screw issue with my last SeaCraft and didn't want to go down that road again. Metal and saltwater don't react too well, so this time around, no screws holding the console to the floor - I just wish there was a way of glassing the t-top to the floor!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...a/85bd6225.jpg

This also makes for a fairly clean appearance at the base of the console:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/hatidua/7.jpg