Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

It's been a while since I have posted - I have been tied up with all kind of hurricane Katrina work here in the middle of "ground zero" Gulfport, MS. Things are a little closer to normal and I want to start on my transom replacement project. I plan on totally closing in the transom and doing away with the in deck rear live well.

This is where I need my 1st piece of advice -
The only hardware/marine supply store that stocked marine plywood was located in Biloxi right on the bay and everything got washed away including their extensive stock of marine plywood.
Shipping on marine plywood is really expensive if I ordered it online or elsewhere and had it delivered.

There is one locally owned marine store that can order the "Penske Board" by the sheet. They don't stock marine plywood and cannot order just a couple of sheets of plywood.

Should I stick with my original plan to use marine plywood (2 pieces of 1/2 inch) and just plan on driving to Florida or Louisiana to get it or substitute the Penske board for marine plywood??
I can get the Penske board for around $100 per sheet of 1/2 inch. I have done my research here on the site and have seen the Penske board mentioned a couple of times.

I am going to do the job from the back of the transom. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. And I'm sure I will have more questions as the project starts.
Thanks in advance.
Jack

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

FishJack, just found out we will be building another Jersey Speed Skiff before the end of the month. Builder met with a new glass supplier located in central Fla. this past weekend and decided to build the core/stringers using Penske board. He told me that the 4'X 8' sheet cost $200, but we usually use 3/4". Stronger, half the weight (at least) and will not rot. Reportedly works very similar to plywood. Looking forward to trying new product. Good luck with your refurb. Vezo, Part II.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Thanks for the reply Vezo, Part II - I know that a couple of boat makers use the Penske Board in their transoms.

I have read all the debates/comments on wood vs. composites for cores etc. and realize that many top boat makers still use marine plywood in their boats.

My problem is the local avaliability of marine plywood and would like to find out if anyone here had used the Penske board for a transom rebuild.

Thanks again... Jack

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

I like marine ply 2 pieces of 3/4 inch not 1/2 inch. Then go light weight on everything else such as transom cap etc... I used core cell for my transom cap and hard top. I used plywood to core all my hatches and CC.

strick

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

FishJack If you feel like making a run?

Merridith Lumber in P'cola has 3/8in, 1/2in and 3/4in Fir marine ply in stock all the time. I don't know how much it is now after all the hurricane crap. I will call and ask tommorow if your interested?

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Strick - Thanks for the info - man I spent over an hour last night at your homepage looking at the seemingly endless number of restoration photos you have. Just the pictures and the order they are in are very informative.

Warthog5 - Thanks for the offer - P'cola is not a long run at all. I will give Merridith Lumber a call. Is the 3/4" Fir Marine Ply the standard everyone uses? Thanks again.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Yes it is. [850] 476-3626 It's $76.26 now. Still not to bad.

8701 N. Palafox st. Pensacola,Fl. 32534. We call it "Old Palafox" around here, because Hwy 29 is also called Palafox too.
But anyway you can plug that in Map Quest to get direction's.
My home number is [850] 455-0415 if you want to drop by and see a custom Mako. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Dang Warthog - $76.26 for 3/4"???? - Biloxi Lumber (where they stocked it locally here on the MS Coast Pre-K) wanted like $94.00. Many Thanks..

A road trip over that way just gives me a good reason to stop by J&M Tackle in Orange Beach... May as well make a day out of it..

Do you know if they are open on Saturdays? Kinda hard to get away from work during the week around here lately.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Jack,

Great to see you posting again. Good luck with the transom rebuild. Please send pictures, as maybe one day i will work up the courage to do somehting similar.

Peter

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Thanks Peter - I sincerely appreciate yours and everyone else's concern about the Classic SeaCraft members here in this area right after Katrina.

It was over a month after the storm b4 I got the internet back up and running (using cable) and about 2 days after they got my cable up the debris haulers (while loading debris in front of my house) broke the main cable feeder on my street and I was down again for weeks..

Anyway - the ole "FishJack" is long overdue for a transom rebuild.. with the number of boats in the area that need fiberglass work and the lack of fiberglass repair shops (boat yards period- there are none left that I know of)
I figure why not try it myself.. afterall I have nothing else to do... yeah right. Oh well hope to have her ready for the summer.
Jack

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

I know they are open Sat. morning. Not sure when they close on Sat.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Well at the point of no return - started digging into the transom today - this is what I found -

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0380.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0384.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0398.jpg

It appears that the area where the motor was mounted was in pretty good shape - the sides up high are in bad shape -

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0399.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0403.jpg

The boat originally had twins - the previous owner installed a single and cut the transom down about 5 inches. The sides were not well sealed and this allowed water to get into the sides.

The wood in the center is still in really good shape and is going to be a bear to remove. How much more should I cut out?? I am going to replace both drain plugs (maybe with garbord (SP?) plugs). Not sure how close is too close to the bottom - trying to stick with the 12:1 bevel..

FWIW - I plan on enclosing the entire transom and putting in some sort of transom door. Also doing away with the splash well and transom below deck livewell.

Any suggestions and advise would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jack

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Biloxi lumber is where I got mine from 5 yrs ago. I haven't been over that way since Katrina, I assume they are no longer there.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Jack
Old transom looks pretty good BUT when you pulled the skin off was any of the core attached to it ?? It looks from the pictures that there was little adhesion to the core ? No bond between the wood and skin ? looks like weathered plywood [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

I might be concerned about the conditions around the hull and livewell drains as well as around the two ice box drains on either side of the notch.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Steve - Biloxi lumber probably had 12 feet of water - somewhere in the gulf is some fine marine plywood floating around. [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

Scott - believe it or not it was a **tch getting the glass off the original wood - had to drive a long chisel into it between the glass and old core. It actually ripped off some of the old core still attached to the outer skin. It is going to be tough removing all that original core.

I plan on making more cuts close to the drain plugs and replacing the drain plugs - probably with a single plug because I am doing away with the factory in deck/splash well bait tank.

I just don't want to cut too close to the bottom of the boat and not leave enough outer skin to bond to.

I will be going to Pensacola to get the plywood soon.
I have quite a few hours/beers worth of work to get it ready first.

Is there any reason to go further to the sides with my cuts? I am trying to avoid replacing the drains in the rear port and starbord storage boxes (ice boxes)??

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

We lost about 4 post on this thread last night....

Chris (I believe was his name - from Ocean Springs, MS) a new member posted for the 1st time on this thread last night informing me that Biloxi Lumber is re-opened..

I believe Trayder had a post as well...

Anyway - I just want to let Chris know that he might need to re-register - seems CSC had a server glitch..

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

That plywood looks smooth as glass !! Thats why I asked




I think some that have done this in the past may have have had wet or even rotted wood around those drains. I would just make sure its in good shape before you go to all that work.

And you are correct ... a bunch of stuff was lost last night ... including I think a new member or two :o

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Thanks for the reply Scott - Compared to some of the other transoms I have seen mine was in pretty good shape at least around the engine mount area.

I am planning on going back with the 1" brass drain tubes - I just ordered a 1" flanging tool for the drain tubes so now I can cut the originals out and replace them with no problem.

I'm not real fond of the garboard type screw plugs - pain to remove and replace everytime you launch the boat.

Other than security is their any other advantage to the screw type (garboard) drain plug?

FWIW :o Once I launched my SeaCraft - forgot the plugs (crowded launch in a hurry)... Parked my truck/trailer and the bilge pumps were running full blast.. Jumped in the water - put the old 1" rubber plugs in and everything was ok. I would have had to hold my breath for a while trying to screw in a garboard plug... :D

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

FishJack,

I don't know what happend to the server but it lost all my info??? Anyhow I come back. As I said I do believe that Biloxi Lumber has reopened. You may want to try to call them to see if they have any marine ply in.

Chris.. :cool:

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Chris - Checked with Biloxi Lumber today - no marine ply.

Looks like I will be going to Pensacola in the next few days to pick some up.

I cut the splash well out tonight will post some pics asap.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Be sure to take up on Warthog's offer. I haven't been there personaly but Bobby seems to have the Anal eye for a custom Mako. Another-words I'm sure the pics of his project don't do him justice.

Chris.. :cool:

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

I got to meet FishJack and his lovely wife today. Then Ringleader rolled in with his new Owen's & Son's trailer.

We had a real nice visit. :D

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Yep - Made the trip to Pensacola today and picked up my marine ply. I really enjoyed my short visit with Warthog.. wish I could have stayed longer.

Boy his Mako is fine.. He has obvisouly spent a lot of time on it and it shows. He was kind enough to give me some pointers in person about my transom project. He has a first class workshop with all the toys - I mean tools.

I learned quite a bit in my short visit. Too bad he is about 2hrs away - if he lived closer he would have to run me off.

Thanks again - Jack

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

FJ,
I did a nearly identical transom rebuild one yr ago, cutting the outer skin, similar to what you've started. I used 3/4" Coosa for the core, but the style of rebuild was pretty much what you've begun.

You may want to consider removing a small portion of the top cap on each side, so you have sufficient clearance to "insert" the new core from the top, as a one-piece unit, rather than in pieces...

To remove the old plywood, I purchased a cheapie ($39) 14" electric chainsaw from WalMart, then used it end-wise to get between the remaining portion of the inner & outer skins.

It had plenty of power for removal of the old wood, but not enough to damage the hull glass. Did a fine job of both cleaning the old wood, and roughing up the remaining skin, to allow for good adhesion, after wiping everything down with paint thinner and acetone to remove any traces of chain oil.

I laid up the new inner & outer skins, on a home-made work table ($45 in materials for the lay-up table), then trimmed and installed them after the core was inserted and set up.

Just some thoughts for you to consider...

Good Luck :cool: ;)

PS:
AMEN to visiting with Warthog. His X-Shark is one VERY fine piece, and he & Lydia are excellent hosts. Hope you enjoyed meeting 7 visiting with them as much as I did ;)

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Some of you guys remember the last time a chainsaw was mentioned here. That time it was used to assist in cutting out foam during the removal of a fuel tank. Yes, he lived... :o

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Jeeper - Funny you should mention "chainsaw" - already using one and it works great... :o
With the small electrics you don't have to worry about kickback .... at least so far

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0405.jpg

Also - after debating on how to section (puzzle piece) my plywood together I think your are right - I have decided to cut the top out and work with one piece. I guess this is now an inside/outside transom job.

"TRANSOM TREASURES" - having read many other posts about what was found in the old bildge of these old SeaCrafts I could not wait to cut out the original "baitwell"
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/a2c81482.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0410.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/d1352a3b.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0413.jpg


SHOW ME THE MONEY - Coin collectors should start refirbing SeaCrafts - Several 1960's vingate silver quarters and dimes - might pay for my transom... He He :D
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0418.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0420.jpg

Anyway - Took off work tomorrow and I am going to try and get as much old wood out of the transom as possible.

One question - my boat had (I guess) a factory installed transducer - http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0417.jpg

Should I do anything with this or just leave it as is and work around it????

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

It's a little hard to tell what's going on, on that last pix Jack. Can you get a better pix of it?

What FF are you using or what do you plan to upgrad to?

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Warthog - I will get a better pic tomorrow after I clean the bildge up a bit..
I am using a Furuno FCV600L with a transom mount transducer and plan on sticking with that unit for now.. works pretty well for me. I noticed that you have the 582L correct? If I was in the market for a new unit that would probably be my choice.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Jack
Whats on the other side of the glass block ?? smooth hull ?
Do you know if its solid ?

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

I would be looking at a Airmar B-60 tilted element X-ducer to get rid of that junk on the transom. It will clean it up a lot without the transom mount unit.
The B-60 is a good unit to use with the 600L.
Jim @ ByOwner has them for under $200.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

More Pics of "I guess" progress -

Scott - I will have to dig around to see what is in there? Not sure yet will advise.

Warthog - I like the idea of a thru-hull X-ducer.. How do they perform at speed?

Cut further down towards the bottom of the hull - you can see that one of the old 1" brass drains had a crack in it -
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0422.jpg

Can anyone say core trouble? I knew I had some soft spots on the cap.. I will tackle this project later.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0428.jpg

Cut out the Ice boxes - Below I scraped some of the foam that is in the inside corners. Water is standing in a recess under the deck just to the right of the exposed foam.
You can reach your hand in there and feel it. The starboard side is dry as a bone. Is there some sort of drain that might be clogged???
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0423.jpg

Here is a little cleaner shot of the factory thru-hull transducer??
Also a lot of other transom jobs I have seen pics of have two stringers instead of the single stringer in the center that my boat has?
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0424.jpg

It is a B**ch getting that wood out of the bottom of the transom..
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...k/IMGP0431.jpg

Another question - the inner skin (which is all I have left) is very thin. Should I just cut that out or try and bond my new plywood to it??

Thanks for the responses.. Jack

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Jack
If I recall I think Capt Chuck heard direct from either Hermco or B Potter that the center stringer in the bilge was reinforcement for trailering. Chuck can confirm that. Several of the boats don’t have that center stringer. Now that little box fabricated into the bottom and stringer …that’s interesting.

Your Bilge drain … that doesn’t look so hot

Great pictures!!!

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

FJ,
Thin as the inner skin is, I believe it's important to get a good bond to the core.

I made a core template then dry fitted each core piece, then bonded the layers of core material together, outside the boat. I then dry-fitted the bonded core, trimming as required, then clamped it in place.

Since you have your bracket, I would also dry-fit it, while the core is clamped / dry-fitted into place. Mark and drill the bracket holes in the core & inner skin, and use these holes as well to clamp it all together.

Additionally, I marked and drilled the inner skin in an approx 4" grid, (in the "reachable areas").

Then when it as all dryfitted and ready for resin, I slathered both pieces liberally, set the core in place, used the bracket holes with large washers, to clamp it in place, and finsished it off using 3/4" screws with fender washers, in every other previously drilled inner skin hole, to "clamp" the inner skin to the new core.

While that was curing, I fabbed the outer skin replacemment, dry fitted & pre-drilled it for the bracket holes, and before mounting it, again drilled the skin on an approx 4-6" square pattern, and secured it with 3/4" screws (& fender washers) to the core in the alternate holes to allow the excess resin and air pockets to escape from the un-used holes.

When it all set up, I removed the screws & fender washers, then back-filled the holes. The inners I simply sealed up with a 2" square patch of resin soaked glass as no one is going to see them anyway, and the excess holes in the outer skin was an easy grind, fair fill, & level before final finishing.

Hope this wasn't too confusing... ;)

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

The one I have installed in a 25ft Mako was outstanding at any speed. It painted a pretty pix on a 600L
Jim say's he has sold a whole bunch of them now.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Jeeper - Thanks not confusing at all makes good sense.

warthog - I assume I will need the B-60 - 20º tilted version (for 16º to 24º deadrise)?

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

OK - I'm going to slow down with the pics.

I'm sure they are getting boring (same old stuff) and post some of the issues I am pondering -

1)Hatches - I see a lot of people fab their own hatches - I don't know if I am up to that level of comfort with glass yet.

I am planning on installing two hatches one in the deck behind the stock hatch to access bildge etc. and another vertically in the enclosed transom area. I am looking at the Bomar 9.75"x19.5" for the floor area and the T-H Marine 10"x27.25" for the (vertical) front of the enclosed transom. Anyone have any experience with these - any know issues? Any other suggestions?

2) Livewell - I have a Kodiak Oval 35 gal that I have been using in the old (now removed) splashwell.
I cannot come up with a good way to use this livewell on my deck - Before I ran the overflow hose out the back of the boat. It was a good temporary setup. Now I am installing a clamshell water pickup to provide water to the livewell. I cannot come up with a creative way of having access to a drain (overflow) out of the boat.

I would love to have a livewell intergrated in the new enclosed transom. But again - don't know that I am up to the task of fabrication an oval livewell to fit my transom.

I like being able to hook up the livewell when needed and remove it when not needed it's just the plumbing of a temporary livewell that looks neat that I cannot figure out. :D

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Fishjack

You don't need to angle if you mount the ducer thru the center of the keel. It's a two beer job :D

"Other Tom" taught me how to do it. Works flawlessly at all speads with my Furuno 582L.


Measure and cut thru keel from the underneath

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...d_cut_thru.jpg

Glass it in flush with the bottom
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...glassed_in.jpg

Fill in any gaps and paint to edge
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ith_bottom.jpg

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Jack you know what I told you about the rear hatch on the transom drop down panel. Make it big! much easier to work in there. Those are 4 TH Marine latch's you see

http://www.classicmako.com/projects/...s/Filler13.jpg

On the livewell. You said you want to be able to remove it.

Unstead of putting it all the way at the back. Move it foward some. This will help get the weight off the ass end of the boat and also create an island.
If you've put mullet in a livewell before you know how they have a way of jumping out sometime's. With the island setup at least they will fall on the deck and you will still have them. Sometome's they will jump out and over the side to be lost if the livewell is close to the side of the boat in someway.

This is my inlet with the 3/4in Seacock and the drain is the 1 1/2in seacock.

http://www.classicmako.com/projects/...ges/bilge8.jpg

You could have the drain where it comes even with the deck. A flush plug goes in when you remove the tank. When using the tank a large barbed fitting screws in when the plug is removed. I have the Kodiak 42-2. The fitting's are all below deck. I'm not planning to remove the tank. It will sit just in front of the NASA hatch you see in the floor.

No offence ment capt_chuck but I would never do a thruhull X-ducer like that.

Here's mine. I built a box to perfectly fit the X-ducer and glassed it into the hull.

http://www.classicmako.com/projects/...ansducer11.jpg

http://www.classicmako.com/projects/...ansducer14.jpg

The B-60-20 is what you will want, but it will not go in the keel. It's made to go out to the side of the keel.

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Thanks for the replies guys –

Capt Chuck – I appreciate the “center keel” option but I don’t really want to cut my keel stringer out – if anything I plan on extending it up the transom some for extra support in the middle.

Warthog – the infamous “NASA” hatch
That is why I picked that wide hatch for the vertical transom surface. It's about the widest one I have found and it hinges 180 degrees (all the way up out of the way) - I plan on moving my trim tab pump and some other goodies to the inside of the transom.

I wish I had the Kodiak model tank with the bottom feed and drain.. I would probably mount it in a permanent position behind my leaning post. I thought about using a PVC 90 degree elbow to direct the overflow down somehow and route back (another 90 degrees) to a to a large seacock drain?

I could keep it removable with only a pipe or hose to step over when the live well is in the boat and attach it to a hose barb or some sort of quick disconnect (as you suggested). I'm gonna have to cipher on this a little more.

Worst case I might just have to come up with a new plan (i.e. bait well) altogether

Re: Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions
 

Jack

Dude ....Pictures never get boring :rolleyes: